Monstera Propagation Methods and Precautions
Monstera is a very widely popular indoor foliage plant nowadays. What many people do not know is that the fruit of Monstera is edible. Some plant enthusiasts want to propagate their own Monstera once it grows very tall and large, so how should Monstera be propagated?
Monstera (detailed introduction)
I. Sowing
Monstera blooms in summer. To increase the seed-setting rate, artificial pollination is needed. Pollinating twice, at 9-10 am and 3-4 pm, is best, with a high pollination success rate. From pollination to seed maturity takes 15 months. During the seed development stage, pay attention to ventilation and fertilizer and water management to encourage plump seeds.
Before sowing, first soak the seeds in 40°C warm water for 10 hours, and the sowing soil should be sterilized at high temperature. Monstera seeds are relatively large, so spot sowing can be used. After sowing, keep the room temperature at 20-25°C, cover the box opening with plastic film, and maintain humidity above 80%. After sowing, they generally sprout in 20-25 days. If the room temperature is too low during sowing, it will not only affect emergence, but the seeds may even develop watery rot.
II. Cuttage
Stem-node cuttage can be used in both spring and autumn, with cuttage in spring from April to May and in autumn from September to October giving the best results. This is because the temperature during these periods is suitable for the stem-node cuts to heal and take root, so they survive quickly.
For cuttings, select current-year side branches with substantial stem tissue and robust growth. The cuttings should be 20-25 cm long, and the leaves at the base should be cut off. Keep the small leaves at the upper end, cut off the long aerial roots, and keep the short aerial roots to absorb water and help rooting. The cutting bed should use a mixed substrate of coarse sand and peat or leaf mold. After cutting, maintain 25-27°C and relatively high air humidity. Rooting begins only about 1 month after cutting. After the cuttings take root, the axillary buds on the stem nodes also begin to sprout and unfold leaves. To speed up seedling growth, keep the room temperature above 10°C and strengthen fertilizer and water management. In the second year after cutting, the seedlings take shape and can be sold as merchandise.
III. Division
Carry this out in summer and autumn. Split off an entire section of a side branch from a large Monstera, with some aerial roots attached, and plant it directly in a wooden tub or pot. This not only gives a high survival rate, but also achieves a shaped effect quickly.
Monstera Cultivation Methods and Precautions Monstera Pictures, Monstera Cultivation Methods
Monstera is a radiation-resistant plant. With its elegant, upright, graceful and noble feel, it attracts the attention of many consumers, and more and more people have introduced and cultivated it, listing it among potted indoor ornamental plants. This article will combine Monstera pictures to explain Monstera cultivation methods.
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[Monstera] Monstera Pictures, Monstera Cultivation Methods——————————————————————————————————————————————
[Plant Profile]
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Chinese name: Monstera
Scientific name: Monstera deliciosa
Aliases: Penglai banana, iron-wire orchid, perforated Philodendron, Monstera banana, electric-wire lotus, translucent dragon palm, electric-wire orchid, Monstera taro
Family: Araceae
Genus: Monstera
Origin and distribution: Native to the tropical rainforests of Mexico, and introduced and cultivated very widely in China.
Morphological characteristics: The stem is thick and strong, with many nodes resembling bamboo. The stem bears long, drooping brown aerial roots that can cling to other objects and grow upward. The leaves are thick and leathery, alternate, dark green or green; the leaves are thick and leathery, alternate, dark green or green; the young leaves are heart-shaped, without perforations, and after growing up the leaves become oblong, with irregular pinnate deep lobes, and holes split from the leaf margin to near the leaf veins; 30-50 cm long, dark green, with leaf scars; at the leaf scars there are bracts, leathery, yellowish white. The flower is shaped like a spathe, pale yellow. The fruit is edible.
How to grow Monstera? - "Five Likes and Five Avoids" on growing Monstera
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◆First, it likes warmth and avoids severe cold. Monstera is native to the tropical rainforests of Mexico and likes a warm environment, avoiding freezing severe cold weather. It will not suffer cold damage when the temperature is above 5°C, and grows well above 12°C.
◆Second, it likes shade and avoids strong light. Monstera has strong shade tolerance. In a semi-shaded environment, it grows especially well, showing vigorous growth, well-developed aerial roots, thick and large leaves, and bright dark green leaf color.
◆Third, it likes moisture and avoids waterlogging. Monstera likes to grow in a moist ecological environment. In the south, where there is a lot of rain, if waterlogging lasts too long, root rot, stem rot and leaf rot will occur.
◆Fourth, it likes fertile soil and avoids poor soil. Monstera likes fertile soil, especially fertile sandy loam. Although it can grow in poor red-yellow soil, its growth becomes weaker, its tree shape becomes deformed, its leaves become smaller, and its leaf color becomes lighter, affecting the ornamental effect.
◆Fifth, it likes soil fertilizer and avoids chemical fertilizer. When Monstera is regularly given organic fertilizer, such as cake fertilizer, artificial organic fertilizer, livestock and poultry manure residue, and farmyard manure, its tree vigor is strong, its leaves are as large as plates, its leaf texture is thick and substantial, its leaf color is dark green and glossy, and especially the turtle-shell pattern is clearer and more distinct.
According to the characteristics of Monstera's "Five Likes and Five Avoids", carry out shade and moisture management in summer and autumn, avoid direct sunlight, water twice a day, often spray water on the leaf surface, and maintain air humidity; in winter keep the room temperature above 5°C, and for outdoor cultivation set up a frame and cover with film for insulation so it can overwinter safely. If cared for properly, Monstera over 4 years old will also bloom, with a single petal wrapping the berry, the flower being beautifully jade-colored, and the berry pale yellow, long elliptical; its spadix inflorescence can be used to make dishes, and the berries can also be eaten after ripening.
Monstera Cultivation Methods
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① Sowing
Monstera blooms in summer. To increase the seed-setting rate, artificial pollination is needed. Pollinating twice, at 9-10 am and 3-4 pm, is best, with a high pollination success rate. From pollination to seed maturity takes 15 months. During the seed development stage, pay attention to ventilation and fertilizer and water management to encourage plump seeds.
Before sowing, first soak the seeds in 40°C warm water for 10 hours, and the sowing soil should be sterilized at high temperature. Monstera seeds are relatively large, so spot sowing can be used. After sowing, keep the room temperature at 20-25°C, cover the box opening with plastic film, and maintain humidity above 80%. After sowing, they generally sprout in 20-25 days. If the room temperature is too low during sowing, it will not only affect emergence, but the seeds may even develop watery rot.
② Cuttage
Stem-node cuttage can be used in both spring and autumn, with cuttage in spring from April to May and in autumn from September to October giving the best results. This is because the temperature during these periods is suitable for the stem-node cuts to heal and take root, so they survive quickly.
For cuttings, select current-year side branches with substantial stem tissue and robust growth. The cuttings should be 20-25 cm long, and the leaves at the base should be cut off. Keep the small leaves at the upper end, cut off the long aerial roots, and keep the short aerial roots to absorb water and help rooting. The cutting bed should use a mixed substrate of coarse sand and peat or leaf mold. After cutting, maintain 25-27°C and relatively high air humidity. Rooting begins only about 1 month after cutting. After the cuttings take root, the axillary buds on the stem nodes also begin to sprout and unfold leaves. To speed up seedling growth, keep the room temperature above 10°C and strengthen fertilizer and water management. In the second year after cutting, the seedlings take shape and can be sold as merchandise.
Division: Carry this out in summer and autumn. Split off an entire section of a side branch from a large Monstera, with some aerial roots attached, and plant it directly in a wooden tub or pot. This not only gives a high survival rate, but also achieves a shaped effect quickly.
③ Cultivation
Monstera is very easy to cultivate. It usually uses an equal mix of leaf mold, garden soil and river sand as the substrate. When planting, add a small amount of bone meal and dried cow manure as base fertilizer. Monstera likes moisture and needs sufficient water, keeping the pot soil moist. Of course, in dry weather it is also necessary to spray water on the leaf surface to keep the air humid. During the growing season, pay attention to shading and avoid direct strong light. Especially in midsummer, it must not be placed in direct sunlight, otherwise it is easy to cause leaf scorch and sunburn, affecting ornamental value.
"Conclusion: Today, large potted Monstera has become a major backbone material for hotel lobbies, and small and medium potted Monstera will also be one of the more ornamental plants in modern home decoration. It is introduced and cultivated very commonly in China.
Of course, potted Monstera is lovable not only because it is a famous indoor potted foliage plant, but also for another reason: Monstera has the peculiar ability to absorb carbon dioxide at night.
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How to Grow Monstera Monstera Cultivation Methods and Precautions
Monstera is named because its leaf shape resembles turtle-shell texture. It symbolizes health and longevity, and also has effects such as absorbing impurities. So how do you grow Monstera? Today I will explain Monstera cultivation methods and precautions.
I. Brief Introduction to Monstera
Monstera, (scientific name: Monstera deliciosa). Also known as "Penglai banana" and "electric-wire grass", it is an evergreen vine plant. The stem is thick and strong; young leaves are heart-shaped and without holes, and after growing up they become broadly ovate with pinnate deep lobes; between the leaf veins there are oval perforations, the leaves have long petioles, and are dark green. Spadix inflorescence, spathe boat-shaped, blooming in November, pale yellow. The stem bears brown aerial roots shaped like electric wires, hence the name "electric-wire grass"; the leaves are ovate, with many oblong holes and deep lobes scattered in a turtle-shell shape between the pinnate veins, resembling a turtle-shell pattern, and the stem has nodes like bamboo stems, hence the name "Monstera". Spadix inflorescence, the whole flower shape resembles a "desk lamp", with a lampshade and a bulb.
Native to the tropical rainforests of Mexico, it likes warm and humid environments, avoids direct sunlight, and is not cold-tolerant. In northern China it is all grown as an indoor potted plant.
II. Monstera Cultivation Methods
1. Planting
Monstera likes loose, well-drained soil, and can be prepared with a mix of garden soil, river sand and leaf mold. Monstera is a large foliage plant with thick stems and large leaves. Especially when dividing adult plants, a frame should be set up and tied to prevent lodging and deformation, and the support can be removed after the shape is fixed.
2. Fertilization
April to September is the period of vigorous growth. Apply a thin liquid fertilizer once every half month. During the growing period, apply a 20-80 or 30-70 nitrogen liquid fertilizer about once every 2 weeks to promote robust plant growth. After autumn, increase phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to make the stems thick and strong and prevent lodging.
3. Watering
Monstera likes moisture. It is best to keep the pot soil dry without cracking and moist without being soggy. The ideal air humidity is 60%. In summer, spray and water the leaf surface every day to keep the leaf color bright. In winter, do not spray water on the leaf surface, otherwise black spots will appear on the leaves, or they may even turn black and rot.
4. Temperature and Light
Monstera likes warmth, and the suitable growth temperature is 15-25°C. When overwintering indoors in winter, it must not be lower than 5°C.
Monstera is relatively shade-tolerant, avoids scorching sun, and likes scattered light, so strong direct light should be avoided. If the sunlight is too strong, the leaves will be scorched; if the light is too dark, the leaf color will fade. In summer, the flower pot can be placed at a north window, while in winter it needs sufficient sunlight and should be placed on a south-facing windowsill.
5. Pest and Disease Control
The main pests and diseases harming Monstera are scale insects and gray leaf spot.
(1) Scale insects: When Monstera is cultivated indoors, if ventilation is poor, scale insects easily appear on the stems and leaves, causing loss of ornamental value. When only a few occur, they can be caught by hand; when severe, spray with a 1000-fold dilution of 40% omethoate emulsion to kill them.
(2) Gray leaf spot: It mostly begins from damaged areas at the leaf margins. It is more severe after low temperature, smoke exposure and pest damage. After the leaves are damaged, the spots are initially black dots, and after expanding they become elliptical or irregular, with dark brown edges and grayish brown interiors. Control methods: ① Strengthen plant care, remove insects in time, and prune some diseased leaves; ② When the disease occurs, spray with a 1000-fold dilution of 70% thiophanate or 0.5% equal-amount Bordeaux mixture.
6. Shaping and Pruning
After the shape is fixed, when the stem-node leaves grow too densely and the branches and vines grow too long, pay attention to pruning the whole plant, striving for a natural and beautiful appearance. If you want the stems and vines to grow taller quickly, you may moderately prune the lower aged leaves.
7. Propagation
Monstera is commonly propagated by layering and cuttage.
(1) Layering: Carry it out from May to August, and after about 3 months it can be cut away from the mother plant.
(2) Cuttage: Carrying it out in April-May and in autumn from September to October gives the best results. Select robust current-year side branches for cuttings, 20-25 cm long, each segment with 2-3 stem nodes, cut off the leaves at the base, keep the small upper leaves, cut off the long aerial roots, keep the short aerial roots, and insert them with leaves or without leaves into a mixed substrate of coarse sand and peat or leaf mold. Maintain a temperature of 25-27°C and relatively high air humidity. Rooting begins about 1 month after cutting, and after 2 months new buds grow and become new plants.
(3) Division: Carry it out in summer and autumn. Split off an entire section of a side branch from a large Monstera, with some aerial roots attached, and bury and plant it directly in a wooden tub or pot. This not only gives a high survival rate, but also gives a good shaping effect.
III. Monstera Cultivation Precautions
1. It fears strong light and sun exposure. Monstera is a typical shade-tolerant plant. Large-scale production must set up shading facilities, and 50% shade netting can be used. Especially for sown seedlings and newly rooted cuttings, direct sunlight must be avoided to prevent leaf scorch. Shaped plants should also be shaded during midsummer, otherwise the leaves will age, lack natural luster, and lose ornamental value.
2. It fears dry air. Monstera grows naturally in tropical rainforests and likes moisture, but water accumulation in potted soil will also cause root rot, causing the plant to stop growing, the leaves to droop, lose luster, and become uneven. Watering should follow the principle of preferring wet over dry, keeping the pot soil moist often but not waterlogged. In spring and autumn, water once every 2-3 days. In midsummer, besides watering every day, spray water multiple times to keep the leaf surface fresh; hanging cultivation should be sprayed even more frequently. In winter, leaf transpiration weakens, so the amount of watering should be reduced.
3. Thin fertilizer applied frequently is good. Monstera is a foliage plant that is relatively tolerant of fertilizer. To make it produce more new leaves and have green leaves with natural luster, apply fertilizer once every half month during the growing period. When fertilizing, be careful not to let the fertilizer liquid stain the leaf surface. At the same time, Monstera's roots are relatively tender, and it should not be given raw fertilizer or concentrated fertilizer, to avoid burning the roots. It is best to use "Huiyou" 20-8-20 four-season high potassium nitrate fertilizer and 20-20-20 general fertilizer, which are more beneficial to the growth of Monstera.
4. It needs tying and shaping. Monstera is a large foliage plant with thick stems and large leaves. Especially when dividing adult plants, a frame should be set up and tied to prevent lodging and deformation. After the shape is fixed, remove the support. At the same time, after the shape is fixed, when the stem-node leaves grow too densely and the branches and vines grow too long, pay attention to pruning the whole plant, striving for a natural and beautiful appearance.