What are the methods and precautions for propagating roses (monthly roses) by cuttings?

Many flower lovers like roses (monthly roses) mainly because they are relatively easy to cultivate, and if you propagate them at home yourself, they are also a variety with a relatively high survival rate. It can be said that the vitality of roses is very tenacious. But for many novice pot gardeners, how to improve the survival rate of rose propagation is relatively important, and roses are generally propagated by the cutting method.

Rose (monthly rose)

First, after the rose flowers fade, cut off the faded flowers first. After one to two weeks, when the first axillary bud on the flowering branch has grown relatively thick and strong, you can cut a cutting with 3 nodes from the flowering branch.

Second step, remove the lower leaves and keep only the top three or four leaves. Then use a clean, sharp blade to cut the lower flower stalk surface into a slanted surface, insert it into a bottle already prepared and filled with clean water. The cutting can be inserted about one third into the water.

Third step, in order for new roots to grow from the cut, it is best to use a dark-colored bottle, or wrap the outside of the bottle with a layer of black plastic film. At the same time, do not let the flowering branch be exposed to direct sunlight.

Fourth, to prevent the flowering branch from becoming moldy, it is best to change the clean water once a day.

Finally, after about three weeks, the flowering branch will grow roots. When the young roots have grown to about two cm, it can be transplanted into a pot. To improve the survival rate, it is best to water once a day at the beginning of transplanting, then gradually reduce it later.

Tip: When taking rose cuttings, you must not be impatient. Sometimes, because the cutting used is relatively thick and strong, the internal nutrients can promote the branch to sprout and grow leaves, making people mistakenly think that the cutting has already survived. But as the buds and leaves grow, the nutrients in the branch are exhausted, and because there is no supply of nutrients and water from roots, the cutting will slowly wither and rot. Therefore, you must observe that white young roots have grown from the base of the rose before carrying out the next step.

Complete guide to rose propagation methods - rose cutting propagation method

Introduction from Flower Bonsai Network: Common propagation methods for roses include cutting propagation, division propagation and layering propagation. Today Flower Bonsai Network will share an article on the complete guide to rose propagation methods. How are roses propagated? Let's take a look.

Roses have relatively strong adaptability. However, only by creating an environment suitable for the requirements of their biological characteristics can their varietal characteristics and the best ornamental effect be brought into fuller play.

Roses like mild conditions, dislike intense heat, and are averse to severe cold. The optimum temperatures suitable for rose growth and development are 20?25 degrees Celsius during the day and 12?15 degrees Celsius at night. When the temperature exceeds 30 degrees Celsius, growth begins to be inhibited, flower buds no longer differentiate, and already differentiated flower buds and formed flowers develop slowly, with small flowers,? incorrect flower color and short-lived flowers. During the flower bud differentiation period, if short-term low temperature (around 5 degrees Celsius) is encountered, blind branches (that is, branches without flowers) will be produced. The adaptability of roses to low temperature and cold differs greatly among variety groups. Some ancient roses can endure a low temperature of -20 degrees Celsius. The floribunda rose group and hybrid climbing rose group can generally endure a low temperature of -15 degrees Celsius. The hybrid tea rose group is indeed not cold-tolerant, but in a low-temperature environment of -10 degrees Celsius, it can also overwinter safely without protection. Among the varieties in each variety group, there are also relatively less cold-tolerant varieties.

Roses are drought-tolerant but not waterlogging-tolerant. During the growing period, especially in the peak growth season in spring, soil water shortage will affect the growth amount of new branches, flower size, flower color luster and flower longevity. If air humidity is too high, under poorly ventilated conditions, they are prone to infection by diseases.

Roses like sufficient light and are not tolerant of shade. In a shaded environment, the plant branches are slender, the leaves are thin and light in color, and there are few and small flowers. But when flowering, if under strong direct sunlight, the petals will change color and their lifespan will be shortened.

Roses are commonly propagated by two methods: cutting and grafting. Under certain conditions, other propagation methods are also used. For example, for varieties that are relatively difficult to root by cutting, layering is used to propagate own-root seedlings. Some clustered varieties are often propagated by division; in order to cultivate a large number of rootstocks or breed new varieties, seed propagation is used.

Cuttings can be carried out all year round, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are preferable. For green cuttings in summer, attention must be paid to water management and temperature control. Otherwise, they are not easy to root. Winter cuttings are generally carried out in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel. If cuttings are taken in the open field, attention must be paid to adding moisture-retention measures. For those propagated by sowing, it is used for sexual hybridization breeding. For a small number of famous varieties that are difficult to root, grafting propagation is used, and the rootstock is preferably wild rose. Such as yellow series varieties.

Seed propagation: After roses are pollinated and fertilized, the seeds mature in about 140 days. Only after the seeds go through the dormancy period (after-ripening) can they germinate under suitable environmental conditions for germination. Therefore, when the fleshy rose hips change from green to yellow and then to red (generally after early October), harvest them, take out the seeds (achenes), do not dry them in the sun, and immediately stratify them with sea sand. Sow in early spring of the following year (March?April). Dry seeds are seriously affected in germination. In order to sow earlier, artificial low-temperature treatment can be used to promote after-ripening and break dormancy. The temperature for low-temperature treatment is below 3 degrees Celsius, around 0 degrees Celsius, and the treatment duration is 55?65 days. The treated seeds, when sown in an environment of 20?25 degrees Celsius, begin to germinate in 7 days and continue germinating for about 1 month. For seeds from artificial hybridization, when 7?13 true leaves appear, the apex may form flower buds and bloom. This provides an early basis for preliminary identification of the plant's plant form, flower color, type, and health. Some also bloom only 1?2 seasons a year. Some seedlings do not form flower buds and should be divided and transplanted early for cultivation.

Cutting propagation is divided into softwood cuttings and hardwood cuttings.

Softwood cuttings use semi-lignified branches, usually branches pruned after flowering. After the flowers fade, cut off the faded flowers together with the 1 leaf below them, then take the lower 3 leaves and cut them off as cuttings. The basal cut of the cutting is made 0.3 cm below a leaf, and the cut is required to be smooth, with the bark not squeezed or damaged. Cut off the lowest 1 leaf, keep 2 leaflets each on the middle and top compound leaves, and cut off all the rest, then they can be inserted for cutting.

Softwood cuttings root best in late spring and early autumn. Although cuttings in summer root quickly, because of high temperature and rampant microorganisms, the cut surface of the cutting is easily infected by pathogens and causes rot, so summer cuttings require special attention to disinfection.

For the rooting medium for cuttings, vermiculite, pure sand or plain sandy soil can be used. Vermiculite has good aeration and water-holding performance, and because it is formed by calcination,? it is relatively clean, and the rooting effect of cuttings is relatively good. Pure sand should be screened to remove too-coarse sand grains, stones and impurities, rinsed with clean water to remove powder and too-fine sand grains, and then scalded with boiling water for disinfection. Plain sandy soil should preferably be baked over fire, or disinfected with chemical agents before use.

The depth for inserting cuttings into the rooting medium should be slightly deeper in spring and autumn, about one half of the total length of the cutting, and shallower in season, about one third. After insertion, water thoroughly,? then cover with glass or plastic film to retain moisture and shade.

The main management work after cutting is watering. In the first 10 days after cutting, watering can be more frequent and more plentiful, maintaining a relatively moist environment; after 10 days, control watering and gradually reach the point of watering only when dry,? maintaining a slightly dry moist state. In an environment of 20?25 degrees Celsius, the cuttings root in 20?35 days. After rooting, transplant them, especially cuttings in vermiculite or pure sand as the rooting medium, which should be transplanted in a timely manner.

Hardwood cuttings are all carried out in spring, generally using branches pruned in winter. Select strong one-year-old branches with plump axillary buds, and cut them into branch sections 10?15 cm long as cuttings. The lower cut of the cutting is 0.5 cm away from the leaf petiole. After cutting, tie the cuttings into bundles and bury them in soil for overwintering, at a depth of about 30 cm. Take them out for cutting in early spring of the following year (early March). Choose a wind-protected sandy soil area for the cutting bed. Only one bud at the top of the cutting is left exposed above the soil. Water after insertion. After sprouting, management must be strengthened even more, because although the terminal bud sprouts, it does not necessarily mean roots have already grown, so the upper part should also keep the soil moist, and the leaf surface should also be sprayed with water frequently. When the leaves of the new plant do not wilt at noon, it indicates that the base has already rooted. From then on, spraying can be reduced and shading time shortened, and combined with watering, dilute fertilizer can be applied.

Transplanted cuttings that have survived often die? To ensure survival after transplanting, attention should be paid to the following points. First, the pot should not be large, and the potting soil should not be too rich. Second, transplant on a windless day, in the evening. Third, plant as soon as they are lifted, not allowing the root system to be exposed to air for too long. Fourth, when lifting seedlings, take care to protect the root system and do not break it. Fifth, after planting, water thoroughly and place in a shaded place. After growth resumes, remove the shade.

Grafting propagation. Grafting propagation produces finished seedlings faster than cutting propagation, and stem grafting also produces finished seedlings faster than bud grafting. In addition, root grafting can also be used in grafting. The choice of propagation method mainly depends on the source of rootstock and local habits.

For rootstock, Rosa multiflora and pink cluster rose are commonly used. These rootstocks propagate easily, have strong adaptability, well-developed root systems and good compatibility. Stem grafting and root grafting are carried out in early spring from February to March. When grafting, dig out the rootstock and do it indoors, or graft directly in the field. Cut off the aboveground part of the rootstock leaving 3?6 cm, choose a smooth side and make a slant cut slightly into the xylem, about 2 cm long. Cut a strong branch with two buds as the scion. On one side of the scion, cut a cut surface slightly longer than the rootstock cut (about 2.1 cm), and on the other side at the base, make a slant cut of about 0.5 cm to form a slanted surface. Then insert the prepared scion into the rootstock cut so that the cambium layers of the two cut surfaces fit closely, then tie it well with binding material (hemp skin, plastic strip). For field grafting, then build a mound of sandy soil. For indoor grafting, the grafted seedlings can be buried with semi-moist soil in a warm place to promote healing, and after 2 weeks or a little longer, plant them in the field.

Bud grafting is carried out from June to October. For bud grafting, branches after flowering are commonly used, selecting axillary buds below the flower that have 5 leaflets. Require axillary buds that are plump and have not yet sprouted. After cutting off the branch, leave a 2-cm-long leaf petiole, cut off the leaf blade, and wrap it with a wet cloth or paper to prevent drying for later use. If grafting? water the rootstock thoroughly once 2-3 days before grafting. When grafting, first carve a "T" shape on the rootstock with a sharp knife, deep to the xylem, with the upper horizontal line 1.2 cm long and the lower vertical line cut 1.8?2 cm long. Pry open the "T" shape, ready to insert the bud. When cutting the bud, first make the cut 0.5 cm above the bud, cut downward slightly with xylem, cut to 1.8-2.0 cm, and pull it off with bark. Then tear off the attached xylem from bottom to top, and cut off the excessively long bark at the lower part. Pry open the "T"-shaped bark of the rootstock, insert the prepared bud so that the upper end of the bud bark closely meets the horizontal line of the rootstock, then tie it well from top to bottom with binding material (hemp skin or plastic strip). Then break off the main shoot on the rootstock to control its growth. One week after grafting, the leaf petiole falls off naturally and the bud piece is fresh green, proving that compatibility and healing have begun. Two weeks later, if the grafted bud swells, remove all buds and eyes on the rootstock to promote sprouting of the grafted bud. For buds whose grafting survives in October, do not promote the grafted bud to sprout in the same year, in order to prevent the new branch from failing to mature before overwintering and suffering freezing damage. Before sprouting in spring of the following year, cut off the rootstock 0.8-1.0 cm above the grafted bud.

Grafting and breeding techniques for rose and rose

For grafting of rose, rose and the like, generally choose rose with well-developed roots, vigorous growth and strong disease resistance as the rootstock. The varieties selected are mostly pink cluster rose and wild rose. The rootstock can be propagated by cuttings, and some are sown from seeds, using seedlings for grafting. Grafting methods usually include bud grafting, stem grafting and root grafting, with bud grafting used most often. Commonly used bud grafting methods are T-budding and patch budding.

I. T-budding method

It is carried out during the seedling growth season when the plant has high water content and the phloem is easy to peel off. When grafting, for the scion, select plump buds on fully developed new shoots of the current year, cut off the leaf blade, retain the petiole, then cut a notch 1.5~2 cm long and 0.5~0.6 cm wide slightly with xylem, forming a T shape. Next, use the bone part at the tail of the budding knife to pry open the cut, so that the phloem separates from the xylem. After gently tearing off the xylem of the grafted bud, insert it into the opening of the rootstock so that the upper flat mouth of the grafted bud aligns with the horizontal cut of the rootstock, and the cambium of the grafted bud and rootstock fit closely. Bind with a plastic film strip 0.6~0.8 cm wide and about 20~25 cm long, sealing the wound tightly and exposing the grafted bud and petiole. After grafting, after 5~7 days, move the petiole with a finger. If the petiole falls off easily, it indicates the grafting was successful, and about 15 days after survival, untie it in time.

II. Patch budding method

It is a single-bud graft used in autumn and winter when the bark of the rootstock is not easy to peel off. The grafted bud can be cut slightly with xylem into an olive shape. A similar cut surface is also cut on the rootstock at the same site as for bud grafting. At the lower part of the cut, leave a 2~3 mm horizontal cut, leaving a small stub to facilitate placement of the grafted bud. Align the bud with the cambium of the rootstock (visually align the bark layers of the two), then bind. In the Shanghai area, this method usually involves cutting rose in September~October, lifting rooted cuttings from November, grafting indoors, and then planting them in a seedling bed at a spacing of 10~15 cm. Plant 45~100 plants per sq m. The seedling bed should be covered with film or placed in a plastic tunnel. When the new seedlings are 30~40 cm tall, they can be planted out.

Management

Rose transplanting is carried out between November and March of the following year. Pruning can be done at the same time as transplanting. First cut off dense branches and dead branches, then cut off old and weak branches, leaving 2~3 outward-growing buds so as to spread in all directions; appropriately shorten particularly strong branches to strengthen the growth of weak branches. In summer, when new branches grow too densely, thin them out. After each batch of flowers fades, promptly cut off the upper part of the branch connected to the faded flower so that it does not set seed and consume nutrients, retain the full middle and lower branches, and promote early new branches to bloom again. Roses like heavy application of base fertilizer before flowering and quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer after flowering to strengthen seedlings and promote flowers. Roses have strict water requirements and cannot be too wet or too dry. Too dry causes withering, too wet damages roots and causes leaf drop.

The main pests of roses include aphids, leaf-rolling moths, slug moths, etc. Control mainly uses 1000~1200 times dimethoate or isocarbophos and other pesticides.

Factors affecting grafting survival

1. Selection of rootstock:

2. Grafting compatibility between rootstock and scion:

3. Cambium of both rootstock and scion:

4. Temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions during grafting:

5. Quality of rootstock and scion:

Rose cutting propagation techniques