What are the common propagation methods for camellias?

Camellia propagation can be divided into sexual propagation and asexual propagation, and the propagation methods of cuttings, grafting, layering and tissue culture are all suitable for camellia (detailed introduction), among which cuttings and grafting are more commonly used. The editor has compiled the common propagation methods for camellias; friends who like them can learn together.

Camellia (detailed introduction)

I. Cuttings propagation

Mid-June and around the end of August are the most suitable. Select current-year semi-ripened branches from the outer part of the canopy with plump tissue, intact leaves and full leaf buds as cuttings, 8-10 cm long, keeping 2 leaves at the tip. When cutting, keep a little old wood at the base if possible; after insertion, callus tissue forms easily and roots develop quickly. Cut the cuttings in the early morning and insert them immediately after cutting, inserting about 3 cm into the substrate; when inserting, the leaves should overlap each other, and after insertion press firmly with your fingers. Shallow insertion is better, as this allows air circulation and faster healing and rooting. The cutting bed needs shade, spray the leaf surface every day, keep it moist, and maintain the temperature at 20-25°C; about 3 weeks after insertion healing begins, and roots form after 6 weeks. When the roots are 3-4 cm long, transplant into pots. When cutting, dip the base of the cuttings in a 0.4%-0.5% indolebutyric acid solution for 2-5 seconds, which has a clear effect of promoting rooting.

II. Grafting propagation

Often used for varieties that are difficult to root from cuttings or for which propagation material is scarce. Grafting in May-June, when the new shoots have become semi-lignified, gives the highest survival rate, and after successful grafting, buds sprout and shoots grow quickly. The main rootstock is Camellia oleifera; collect seeds in October, store them in sand over winter, sow in early April of the following year, and when the seedlings grow to 4-5 cm they can be used for grafting. Using the greenwood cleft grafting method, use a blade to cut off the embryonic bud part of the bud rootstock, make a vertical cut upward along the pith at the center of the cross-section of the hypocotyl, then take one node of camellia scion, also cut the base below the node into a regular wedge shape, immediately insert the prepared scion into the bottom of the rootstock cleft, align the cambium on both sides, bind with cotton thread, and cover with a clean plastic bag. Remove the bag after about 40 days; budding and shoot growth occur only after about 60 days.

III. Layering propagation

In the plum rain season, select robust 1-year-old branches, at 20 cm from the tip, perform ring barking 1 cm wide, bind with leaf mold and wrap with plastic film; roots form after about 60 days, and when cut off they can be potted directly, with a high survival rate.

IV. Seed propagation

Suitable for single-petaled or semi-double varieties. Seeds mature in mid-October and can be sown then. Shallow sowing is better; use vermiculite as the substrate, cover with 6 mm, keep at room temperature 21°C, and provide 10 hours of light each night to promote seed germination; germination begins 15 days after sowing, seedlings reach 8 cm in height within 30 days, and are transplanted when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves.

V. Tissue culture propagation

Seedlings are often used as explants; after routine disinfection, cut into 1 cm lengths and inoculate on MS medium supplemented with kinetin 1 mg/L, 6-benzylaminopurine 1 mg/L and indoleacetic acid 0.1 mg/L. After 4 weeks of culture, only callus tissue forms, without shoots. After transferring to fresh medium, single shoots 4 cm long begin to form, then soak in 0.5 mg/L indolebutyric acid solution for 20 minutes, then transfer to 1/2 MS medium, and roots grow after 4 weeks. After growing 8 weeks on the rooting medium, transplant the plantlets into pots filled with perlite and peat.

Camellia planting methods | Camellia planting techniques | Camellia cultivation methods

Camellia originated in China. In the early 7th century AD, Japan introduced camellias from China, and by the early 15th century it introduced large numbers of Chinese camellia varieties. In 1739 Britain introduced Chinese camellias for the first time, and afterward camellias spread to European and American countries. To date, countries such as the United States, the United Kingdom, Japan, Australia and Italy have developed rapidly in camellia breeding, cultivation and production, and have entered the stage of industrialized production, with interspecific hybrids, intervarietal hybrids and new varieties continuously coming onto the market.

China has a long history of cultivating camellias. Camellia cultivation has existed since the Southern Dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty, camellias were cultivated as precious ornamental plants. By the Song Dynasty, camellia cultivation was already very popular. In the Southern Song Dynasty, camellias from Wenzhou were introduced to Hangzhou and developed rapidly. In the Ming Dynasty, the "Flower History" described and classified camellia varieties. By the Qing Dynasty, camellia cultivation was even more widespread, and camellia varieties kept appearing. Since 1949, China's camellia cultivation level has improved to a certain extent, and variety selection and breeding have also developed. At present, China has more than 300 camellia varieties. In Zhejiang, Fujian and Jiangsu and other places, batch production has begun. At present, it has become the main potted ornamental flowering plant on the flower market in winter.

[Morphological characteristics and varieties]

Camellia is an evergreen broad-leaved shrub. Leaves alternate, leathery, elliptical, with serrated edges, dark green. Flowers are solitary or 2-3 borne at the tips of branches or in leaf axils. Flowers are single-petaled or semi-double. Double. Common varieties include single-petaled types such as Chenxi, with ruffled petals, pure white; Saijinguang, white flowers marked with peach-red lines and sprinkled with fine dots; Dahua Jinxin, with large red flowers, flower diameter 6-7 cm; semi-double types include Sailuoyang, red flowers with white blotches; Dasongzi, dark red flowers; Zuiyangfei, pink flowers; Xingtao Mudan, peach-red flowers. Double types include Baibaozhu, pure white flowers; Hongfurong, oleander-red flowers; Huafurong, white flowers with red lines; Huabaozhu, pink flowers with irregular red stripes; Wuhe Pengqiu, large red flowers; Huafoding, large red flowers with a small amount of white blotches; Hong Shiba Xueshi, red flowers; Chidan, large red flowers; Huaheling, light red flowers with white spots. Varieties bred abroad include Adolphe Audusson, with large, dark red, double flowers. Alba Plena, with large, white, double flowers. Berenica Boddy, with light pink, semi-double flowers and strong cold resistance. Debutante, with large, peony-form, light pink flowers. Donckelarii, with red flowers bearing white marble-like stripes, semi-double. Elegans, with large, anemone-form, rose-red flowers bearing white spots. Finlandia, with light pink, semi-double flowers. Glen 40, with large, dark red, double flowers. Herme, with pink flowers bearing irregular white edges and deep pink stripes, semi-double. Kumasaka, with rose-form, rose-red flowers. Magnoliaeflora, with light red, semi-double flowers. Mathotiana, with large, rose-form, dark red, double flowers. Purity, with white, rose-form, double flowers. Among hybrid camellias are Donation, with large, pink, semi-double flowers; and Fragrant Pink, with small, peony-form, deep pink flowers that are very fragrant.

[Biological characteristics]

Camellia originated in China. It likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments. It fears high temperatures and avoids blazing sun.

The suitable growth temperature for camellia is 18-25°C, 13-18°C from March to September, and 10-13°C from September to March of the following year. When the temperature is above 12°C, sprouting begins; above 30°C, growth stops; the starting flowering temperature is 2°C, and the suitable temperature for flower opening is 10-20°C. Cold-resistant camellia varieties can briefly tolerate -10°C, and general varieties -3 to -4°C. When the summer temperature exceeds 35°C, leaf scorch will occur.

Camellia is suited to an environment with sufficient water and humid air, and avoids dryness. In the hot, dry summer and autumn, water or spray promptly; the relative air humidity is best at 70%-80%. In the plum rain season, pay attention to drainage to avoid waterlogging and rot of the roots.

Camellia is a semi-shade plant, suitable for growing under scattered light, and fears direct sunlight and scorching sun; seedlings need shading. However, long-term excessive shade is unfavorable to camellia growth, resulting in thin leaves and fewer flowers, affecting ornamental value. Mature plants need more light to favor flower bud formation and flowering.

For open-field cultivation, choose deep, loose soil with good drainage; a pH of 5-6 is most suitable, and alkaline soil is not suitable for camellia growth. For potting soil, use fertile, loose, slightly acidic loam or leaf mold.

[Cultivation methods]

Cuttings, grafting, layering, sowing and tissue culture propagation are commonly used.

Cuttings propagation: mid-June and around the end of August are the most suitable. Select current-year semi-ripened branches from the outer part of the canopy with plump tissue, intact leaves and full leaf buds as cuttings, 8-10 cm long, keeping 2 leaves at the tip. When cutting, keep a little old wood at the base if possible; after insertion, callus tissue forms easily and roots develop quickly. Cut the cuttings in the early morning and insert them immediately after cutting, inserting about 3 cm into the substrate; when inserting, the leaves should overlap each other, and after insertion press firmly with your fingers. Shallow insertion is better, as this allows air circulation and faster healing and rooting. The cutting bed needs shade, spray the leaf surface every day, keep it moist, and maintain the temperature at 20-25°C; about 3 weeks after insertion healing begins, and roots form after 6 weeks. When the roots are 3-4 cm long, transplant into pots. When cutting, dip the base of the cuttings in a 0.4%-0.5% indolebutyric acid solution for 2-5 seconds, which has a clear effect of promoting rooting.

Grafting propagation: often used for varieties that are difficult to root from cuttings or for which propagation material is scarce. Grafting in May-June, when the new shoots have become semi-lignified, gives the highest survival rate, and after successful grafting, buds sprout and shoots grow quickly. The main rootstock is Camellia oleifera; collect seeds in October, store them in sand over winter, sow in early April of the following year, and when the seedlings grow to 4-5 cm they can be used for grafting. Using the greenwood cleft grafting method, use a blade to cut off the embryonic bud part of the bud rootstock, make a vertical cut upward along the pith at the center of the cross-section of the hypocotyl, then take one node of camellia scion, also cut the base below the node into a regular wedge shape, immediately insert the prepared scion into the bottom of the rootstock cleft, align the cambium on both sides, bind with cotton thread, and cover with a clean plastic bag. Remove the bag after about 40 days; budding and shoot growth occur only after about 60 days.

Layering propagation: in the plum rain season, select robust 1-year-old branches, at 20 cm from the tip, perform ring barking 1 cm wide, bind with leaf mold and wrap with plastic film; roots form after about 60 days, and when cut off they can be potted directly, with a high survival rate.

Seed propagation: suitable for single-petaled or semi-double varieties. Seeds mature in mid-October and can be sown then. Shallow sowing is better; use vermiculite as the substrate, cover with 6 mm, keep at room temperature 21°C, and provide 10 hours of light each night to promote seed germination; germination begins 15 days after sowing, seedlings reach 8 cm in height within 30 days, and are transplanted when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves.

Tissue culture propagation: seedlings are often used as explants; after routine disinfection, cut into 1 cm lengths and inoculate on MS medium supplemented with kinetin 1 mg/L, 6-benzylaminopurine 1 mg/L and indoleacetic acid 0.1 mg/L. After 4 weeks of culture, only callus tissue forms, without shoots. After transferring to fresh medium, single shoots 4 cm long begin to form, then soak in 0.5 mg/L indolebutyric acid solution for 20 minutes, then transfer to 1/2 MS medium, and roots grow after 4 weeks. After growing 8 weeks on the rooting medium, transplant the plantlets into pots filled with perlite and peat.

[Cultivation management]

Camellias are commonly potted in 15-20 cm pots. The camellia root system is fragile, so be careful not to damage the roots when transplanting. For potted camellias, repot every year after flowering in spring or in September-October, prune leggy or dead branches, and replace with fertile leaf mold. Camellia likes moisture, but the soil should not be too wet, especially in pots; overly wet potting soil easily causes root rot. Conversely, insufficient watering and excessive dryness cause leaves to curl and also affect flower bud development.

After repotting camellias in spring, there is no need to fertilize immediately. After the beginning of summer, during the period of vigorous stem and leaf growth, fertilize once every half month or use "Huiyou" 21-7-7 acid fertilizer. From bud appearance in September to the flowering period, apply 1-2 additional applications of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. In late summer and early autumn, camellias begin to form flower buds; each branch tip should keep 1-2 flower buds, not too many, so as to avoid consuming nutrients and affecting the opening of the main flower buds. When removing buds, pay attention to the position of leaf buds to keep the plant shape attractive. At the same time, remove dried and useless buds by hand.

[Pest and disease control]

When camellias are cultivated indoors or in greenhouses, if ventilation is poor, they are susceptible to red spider mites and scale insects, which can be controlled by spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution or by washing them clean. In the plum rain season, air humidity is high and anthracnose often occurs, which can be controlled by spraying with equal-part Bordeaux mixture or 25% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution.

[Post-production handling]

The camellia has a graceful canopy, bright green leaves, large and brilliantly colored flowers, and a long flowering period, blooming right at New Year's Day and Spring Festival. Potted plants adorn guest rooms, studies and balconies, presenting an elegant and luxurious atmosphere. Planted in courtyards, accompanied by flower walls and rocks in front of pavilions, the scenery is natural and pleasant. During storage and transport, prevent high temperatures and dry air, otherwise flower buds and flowers easily drop, affecting quality.

[Camellia] Camellia cultivation methods, camellia pictures

Camellia is a small tree, with extremely many varieties; it is a traditional ornamental flower of China, ranking seventh among the "top ten famous flowers", and is also one of the world's precious ornamental plants. It is simple to plant and easy to keep alive; today the editor will briefly introduce camellia cultivation methods for everyone.


.....

      After seeing camellia pictures, many people want to grow camellias, so the editor will introduce the general method of growing camellias as potted plants at home. Camellias are commonly potted in 15-20 cm pots. The camellia root system is fragile, so be careful not to damage the roots when transplanting. For potted camellias, repot every year after flowering in spring or in September-October, prune leggy or dead branches, and replace with fertile leaf mold. Camellia likes moisture, but the soil should not be too wet, especially in pots; overly wet potting soil easily causes root rot. Conversely, insufficient watering and excessive dryness cause leaves to curl and also affect flower bud development.
.....

.....

      In camellia cultivation methods, attention should be paid to post-potting care. After repotting camellias in spring, there is no need to fertilize immediately. After the beginning of summer, during the period of vigorous stem and leaf growth, fertilize once every half month. From bud appearance in September to the flowering period, apply 1-2 additional applications of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, together with spraying Duoduo Zhuangdiling to promote strong flower buds.
.....

.....
       In late summer and early autumn, camellias begin to form flower buds; each branch tip should keep 1-2 flower buds, not too many, so as to avoid consuming nutrients and affecting the opening of the main flower buds. When removing buds, pay attention to the position of leaf buds to keep the plant shape attractive. At the same time, remove dried and useless buds by hand. During the growing period, maintain sufficient water, and spray the leaves once a day to maintain relatively high air humidity, with 50% shading in summer.
.....

.....

      In camellia cultivation, learning to fertilize is very important. Camellias cannot be over-fertilized and cannot be given concentrated fertilizer; this is the camellia's characteristic of disliking concentrated fertilizer, otherwise it will damage the root system and reduce the number of flowers. For the base fertilizer of camellias, it is best to use organic fertilizer, such as fermented chicken and duck manure and animal organs, as well as bean cake, fish bone meal, etc. These organic fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other components, are relatively complete, and have long-lasting fertilizer effects. When applying, they can be sun-dried, crushed into powder, first mixed with 5-6 times the amount of dry soil, and then scattered 2-3 cm away from the plant roots when repotting and filling the potting soil.
.....

.....

      Camellia cultivation methods. The camellia has a graceful canopy, bright green leaves, large and brilliantly colored flowers, and a long flowering period, blooming right at New Year's Day and Spring Festival. Potted plants adorn guest rooms, studies and balconies, presenting an elegant and luxurious atmosphere. Planted in courtyards, accompanied by flower walls and rocks in front of pavilions, the scenery is natural and pleasant. During storage and transport, prevent high temperatures and dry air, otherwise flower buds and flowers easily drop, affecting quality.
.....

.....
      Camellia is a plant that is very easy to see in ordinary gardens. Because the dark green leaves are also very beautiful, they can also be used alone as a foil for other flowers. However, the ease with which the flowers fall is a shortcoming. One can often see flower beds or pots filled with primroses. Do not water too much. Be careful not to let the roots rot.
.....

      Placing one or two potted camellias in the home living room can make your home more lush and green. Camellias always bloom in winter, when almost all other flowers have withered, making people feel very warm. Today the editor's introduction to camellia cultivation methods ends here; thank you all for reading.