How do you cultivate the offsets from Clivia division propagation?
For Clivia propagated by division, the offsets that have just left the mother plant have relatively weak growth capacity, so careful care is needed for the offsets to survive. The editor will now introduce how the offsets of Clivia should be cared for after division.
For Clivia propagated by division, the offsets that have just left the mother plant have relatively weak growth capacity, so careful care is needed for the offsets to survive. The editor will now introduce how the offsets of Clivia should be cared for after division.
Clivia
1. When dividing, try to preserve as much of the root system on the offsets as possible. The more roots there are, the more favorable it is for the normal growth of the offsets later.
2. Promptly apply clean fine stove ash, charcoal powder, plant ash, etc. to the wounds to make them dry quickly, preventing water loss and pathogen infection.
3. For rootless offsets, do not rush to put them into nutrient soil for care. After the wounds have dried slightly, first bury them in sterilized fine sand, sawdust, or perlite for root induction. At a temperature of 20°C to 25°C, keep the potting soil moist. After about 50 days, new roots will grow, and then they can be planted in nutrient soil for normal care.
4. Watering must be controlled. For offsets that have just left the mother plant and have been planted in nutrient soil, the first watering should not be too much, to prevent wound infection and rot.
How does Clivia propagate by division?
Among Clivia propagation methods, division is relatively commonly used. Some flower enthusiasts do not know how Clivia is divided, fearing improper handling, but in fact Clivia division is not as complicated as flower enthusiasts imagine. Mastering the timing is half the success. The best time for Clivia division is when the average temperature is between 15°C and 25°C, and south of the Yangtze River it can be done around Qingming Festival.At this time, Clivia has just finished blooming and entered a vigorous vegetative growth period, so while repotting and changing the soil for Clivia, young offsets can be cut off for division propagation. In the second half of the year, division can be carried out between Bailu and Qiufen, so that the new offsets after being separated from the mother plant have a longer growth period. Whether to divide in spring or autumn can be decided according to the size of the offsets. If the offsets are too small, they grow slowly after division; if the offsets are too large, they affect the growth vigor of the mother plant. Generally, dividing when the offsets have grown 3 to 5 leaves is very beneficial to the growth of both the offsets and the mother plant. That is to say, repotting that should be done in the first half of the year should not be delayed to the second half, and even less to the second year.
Specific methods for Clivia division
1. Blade: A medical scalpel may be used, or a thin decorative knife. Before use, it is best to disinfect and sterilize it with potassium permanganate solution.
2. Prepare flower pots and potting soil. The flower pot should preferably have good drainage, be loose and breathable, and be free of pathogens.
Potting soil can be prepared as two types of media. One is a pure sand medium. Take ordinary river sand, first remove the powder in the sand with a fine sieve, then rinse it clean with clear water, then scald it with boiling water for disinfection, and dry it in the sun before use. River sand is an excellent medium for root induction of Clivia division seedlings and is very beneficial for the transplanting and survival of young seedlings. The second is leaf mold soil. This acidic soil contains a variety of nutrients and is suitable for cultivating young seedlings with roots that have been cut from the mother plant. When this medium is used to cultivate division seedlings, generally after a few days of recovery the division seedlings regain vitality and quickly use their own root systems to absorb water and nutrients from the medium and grow vigorously.
3. After cutting, use the prepared vitamin B12 solution to apply to the wounds of both the mother plant and the offsets, and use charcoal powder or sulfur powder to dry and disinfect the wounds. After these tasks are completed, the division seedlings can be planted.
4. During division, the method of taking the buds should be determined according to the growth position of the offsets. Whether repotting is needed depends on how exposed the offsets are. If the offsets are well exposed and the mother plant has been repotted for less than two years, there is no need to repot to take buds. Simply dig away the growing soil until the position of the offsets on the mother plant can be seen, and then cut the buds for propagation; if the offsets grow at the bottom of the mother plant's rhizosphere, repotting is necessary. The whole plant can be gently lifted out, the attached old soil shaken off, the offsets exposed, and the offsets removed by breaking or cutting. During operation, the sharper the knife, the better, and the smaller the wound, the better; this is beneficial for wound healing and growth of the young seedlings.
5. The depth for potting and cultivation should be based on burying the rhizome of the offsets and stabilizing the plant body. When potting, pay attention to close contact between the young seedling rhizome and the sand particles. Young seedlings tilted by watering should be straightened immediately. For rootless division seedlings that cannot stand steadily when planted, a bamboo stick can be inserted into the medium, and then the division seedling tied and supported to the bamboo stick to keep it fixed. Generally after 30 to 40 days, new roots can grow smoothly.
Key points for Clivia division
At the appropriate time, cutting the axillary buds produced at the junction of the pseudobulb and roots of Clivia from the mother plant and culturing them separately is called Clivia division propagation. Clivia has strong adaptability and regeneration ability. A mature pot of Clivia can often produce several, or even more than a dozen, axillary bud seedlings in a year. These young buds, whether rooted or not, can be cut from the mother plant and cultured separately to develop into new plants.Clivia division propagation is simple to perform, has a high survival rate, and grows and develops quickly. During the division process, the following technical points should be grasped.
1. The best timing for division
Best time: The best time for Clivia division differs by region. If greenhouse facilities are available, it can be done all year round. In the Yangtze River basin and areas to its south, division in the first half of the year can be carried out around Qingming Festival. At this time, the temperature in the above areas is generally between 15°C and 25°C, and Clivia has just finished blooming and entered a vigorous vegetative growth period. Growers can use this opportunity to repot and change soil for Clivia and cut axillary buds for division propagation. Division in the second half of the year must be carried out between Bailu and Qiufen. Autumn division should be done as early as possible so that the new plants after separation from the mother plant have a longer growth period. Generally from September to October, the fruit of Clivia has basically matured. In order to bloom well the next year, autumn repotting and soil changing are often carried out so that the plant obtains sufficient nutrients in the second vigorous growth period. While repotting, its axillary buds can be taken for propagation.
Best leaf age: Is spring division or autumn division better? This is determined according to the size of the offsets. If the offsets are too small, they grow slowly after division; if the offsets are too large, they affect the growth vigor of the mother plant. Generally, dividing when the offsets have grown 3 to 5 leaves is very beneficial to the growth of both the offsets and the mother plant. That is to say, repotting that should be done in the first half of the year should not be delayed to the second half, and even less to the second year.
2. Preparation and implementation of division
Preparation: Before dividing Clivia, preparation must be done well. ① Sharpen the knife. By rubbing the cutting knife against a whetstone, on the one hand rust and dirt can be removed, and on the other hand high temperature can be generated, which plays a disinfecting role. After sharpening, wipe the knife clean with clean gauze and set it aside. ② Prepare pots. Prepare flower pots and potting soil. The flower pot should preferably have good drainage, be loose and breathable, and be free of pathogens. Potting soil can be prepared as two types of media. One is a pure sand medium. Take ordinary river sand, first remove the powder in the sand with a fine sieve, then rinse it clean with clear water, then scald it with boiling water for disinfection, and dry it in the sun before use. River sand is an excellent medium for root induction of Clivia division seedlings and is very beneficial for the transplanting and survival of young seedlings. The second is leaf mold soil. This acidic soil contains a variety of nutrients and is suitable for cultivating young seedlings with roots that have been cut from the mother plant. When this medium is used to cultivate division seedlings, generally after a few days of recovery the division seedlings regain vitality and quickly use their own root systems to absorb water and nutrients from the medium and grow vigorously. ③ Prepare medicine. Prepare vitamin B12 solution and charcoal powder. Vitamin B12 solution is used to apply to the wounds of the mother plant and offsets, and charcoal powder is used to dry and disinfect the wounds. After these tasks are completed, the division seedlings can be planted.
Cultivation: During division, the method of taking buds should be determined according to the growth position of the axillary buds. Whether repotting is needed depends on how exposed the axillary buds are. If the axillary buds are well exposed and the mother plant has been repotted for less than two years, there is no need to repot to take buds. Dig away the growing soil, and as long as the position of the axillary buds on the mother plant can be seen, the buds can be cut for propagation; if the axillary buds grow at the bottom of the mother plant's rhizosphere, repotting is necessary. The whole plant can be gently lifted out, the attached old soil shaken off, the axillary buds exposed, and the young seedlings removed by breaking or cutting. During operation, the smaller the wound, the better; this is beneficial for wound healing and growth of the young seedlings. The depth for potting and cultivation should be based on burying the rhizome of the offsets and stabilizing the plant body. When potting, pay attention to close contact between the young seedling rhizome and the sand particles. Young seedlings tilted by watering should be straightened immediately. If the division seedling has no roots and cannot stand steadily when planted, a bamboo stick can be inserted into the medium, and then the division seedling tied and supported to the bamboo stick to keep it fixed. Generally after 30 to 40 days, new roots can grow smoothly.
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