How to propagate plum blossoms? A detailed guide to the four common propagation methods

Plum blossom is a very common flowering tree in China, and many flower enthusiasts now make plum blossoms into bonsai to enjoy at home. Plum blossoms are generally propagated mainly by grafting, with cuttings and layering used occasionally, and sowing used relatively rarely. The editor will introduce the characteristics of these propagation methods for you, and interested flower enthusiasts can learn about them together.

Plum blossom

I. Propagation by sowing

The fruit of the plum blossom is harvested when it changes color in June or slightly later, and after going through the after-ripening stage, the skin and flesh are removed after the Start of Autumn, then washed and dried for later use. It is best to sow within the year (in autumn), and the specific time can be in late September. When sowing, the soil should be deeply plowed and finely harrowed, leveled, and made into beds, with furrows opened at a row spacing of 40 cm and a furrow depth of 3-5 cm. Place the seeds in the soil furrows at intervals of 5-7 cm, one after another, water thoroughly, and cover with fine soil or sand. In the spring of the following year, when the seedlings grow to 10-15 cm, they can be transplanted. If propagating by sowing in spring, then after the seeds are washed and dried, they should be stratified and stored in moist sand, and taken out in early spring for drilling sowing.

II. Propagation by grafting

Many varieties of plum blossom, such as Jinqian Lü'e Mei, Songchun Mei, Ningxiang Mei, etc., can only be propagated by grafting. Grafting includes two types: scion grafting and bud grafting. In addition to using plum seedlings as rootstock, peach (including Mao Tao and Shan Tao), plum, and apricot are also used as rootstock. Plum rootstock is the best, with strong compatibility, high survival rate, good growth, and also a long lifespan.

Scion grafting is carried out from mid-February to early March or from mid-October to November. Select the middle section of robust branches as the scion, 5-6 cm long, with 2-3 buds, using cut grafting or cleft grafting.

For bud grafting, the survival rate is high when carried out around the Start of Autumn (early August), and the T-shaped budding method is mostly used. In the early winter of the same year after the graft takes, cut off the rootstock 5 cm above the grafted bud and prune the side branches. In the following spring, the grafted bud sprouts, and after it grows larger, cut off the remaining rootstock and remove the rootstock buds at any time.

Using peach as rootstock, the seeds are easy to obtain, grafting is easy to succeed, and after grafting the growth is fast and flowering is abundant, so it is currently widely used in production. However, after grafting, the plum tree is prone to insect pests and its lifespan is shortened. To solve this contradiction, during the grafting operation, the aboveground part of the rootstock can be cut off 2 cm above the ground, and the scion should be selected from robust branches of the current year's growth. During grafting, attention should be paid to ensuring the cambium layers are closely joined, then tied tightly with plastic strips and sealed with soil until the junction is no longer visible. Check for survival after one month, cut off root sprouts, and keep the soil seal intact. After survival, do not rush to remove all the soil at once; gradually help the buds emerge from the soil to avoid the new buds drying out, and as the seedling grows taller, add soil to firm it up so that the scion develops roots. This can overcome the shortcoming of short lifespan of peach rootstock. After roughly 2-3 years, the scion can also grow many new roots, similar to the effect of cuttings.

Plum blossom

III. Propagation by cuttings

Propagating plum blossoms by cuttings is simple to operate, the technique is not complicated, and it can also completely preserve the excellent characteristics of the original variety. The survival rate of plum blossom cuttings varies by variety. Under conventional conditions, Su Bai Tai Ge Mei has the highest survival rate, generally reaching more than 80%; Xiao Lü'e Mei, Gongfen Mei, etc. have a survival rate of 60%; varieties such as Zhusha Mei, Longyou Mei, Dayu Mei, and Songchun Mei are not easy to root. Treating cuttings with a quick dip in 500 ppm indolebutyric acid or 1,000 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid aqueous solution can increase the survival rate and can also promote rooting in difficult-to-root varieties.

For plum blossom cuttings, November is best, because the leaves fall at this time and the branches store sufficient nutrients, making it easy to root and survive. Select annual robust branches 10-12 cm long as cuttings. When inserting the cuttings, bury most of the branch in the soil, leaving only 2-3 cm above the soil surface, and leave one bud outside. The cutting site requires loose soil and good drainage. After cutting, water once thoroughly and cover with plastic film, which can maintain temperature and humidity in a small area and improve the survival rate of cuttings; replenish water as needed afterward. After cutting, the soil moisture content must not be too high, otherwise it will affect the healing and rooting of the cuttings. After survival in the following year, gradually provide ventilation to adapt them to the environment, and finally remove the film. In the spring of the third year, fixed planting and transplanting can be carried out. If cutting in spring, a shade shed must be set up during the summer.

IV. Propagation by layering

Layering propagation is best carried out in February to March. Select 1-2 year old branches, cut 2-3 slashes below the branch that is to be pressed into the soil, and be careful not to cut too deep, as damaging the xylem will affect rooting. Bury the cut section in the soil, and during operation be careful not to damage the buds. After layering, soil should also be mounded, preferably using loose and fertile sandy soil. Pay attention to watering in summer to keep the soil moist. After rooting in autumn, it can be cut off to become a new plant.

The air layering method is often used to propagate large seedlings, which can bloom in early spring of the following year. During the plum rain season, select suitable branches on the mother plant, wound them, wrap them with plastic film containing loose mixed soil (such as peat plus sphagnum moss), tie both ends tightly, and maintain humidity. Check after about one month. For those that have rooted, make a cut below the layer down to the middle of the branch, and after one week cut it off completely for growing on.

Many flower enthusiasts like plum blossoms because they bloom in winter, but before cultivating plum blossoms it is still necessary to clearly understand the cultivation methods of plum blossoms, so as to avoid the tragedy of killing the plum blossom due to lack of understanding.

How to grow wintersweet Wintersweet cultivation methods

How to grow wintersweet

How to grow wintersweet: water and fertilizer management

There is a saying about wintersweet: "Wintersweet won't die of drought," which fully shows that wintersweet has very strong drought tolerance, so wintersweet bonsai is not sensitive to water requirements. Generally in spring and autumn, do not water if the potting soil is not dry; in summer, water once in the morning and once in the evening. During the flowering period of wintersweet, it should not be watered too much or too frequently, otherwise it will cause the wintersweet flowers to drop.

Wintersweet likes fertilizer, but it should not be too concentrated. The fertilization time is generally once a month from April to November with liquid fertilizer, and one additional fertilization can be added in late June to prepare nutrients for flower bud differentiation.

How to grow wintersweet: shaping and pruning

To ensure good ornamental value of wintersweet bonsai, pruning of branches is necessary. The pruning method for wintersweet bonsai depends on the tree shape decided in advance. Taking the pruning method for a tree-shaped form as an example, during the seedling stage of wintersweet, select one robust branch and train it as the trunk. After the trunk grows to the desired height, pinch it (pinching means topping, which is the work of treating the reserved trunk branch, basic branch, or side branch) to form a crown.

How to grow wintersweet: pest and disease management

Wintersweet has relatively few pests and diseases. If encountered, you can use the dormant period of wintersweet to cut off the pest-damaged branches and burn them. Therefore, in the care of wintersweet, it is actually relatively simple, which is very time-saving and labor-saving.

What methods are used to propagate wintersweet

(1) Propagation by grafting

Shan Wintersweet is commonly used as rootstock, or seedlings of inferior wintersweet varieties are used as rootstock. The main grafting methods include cut grafting, cleft grafting, approach grafting, side cleft grafting, and bark grafting (bark insertion grafting), etc. If conditions permit, from April to September

spray softwood side cleft grafting can be carried out, and after grafting cover with plastic film, then spray to maintain humidity.

(2) Propagation by division

Division is often carried out from after leaf fall in autumn to before sprouting in spring. For the suckering branches to be divided, first shorten them 10-20 cm above the ground, which is beneficial for division and for survival, planting, and branching after planting.

Wintersweet cultivation methods and precautions

Wintersweet watering methods

Since ancient times, wintersweet has been regarded as a kind of plum blossom that can withstand the test of severe cold and intense heat, so it should be a very easy flower to grow. People often say that wintersweet won't die of drought, and from this it can be seen that wintersweet's drought resistance is very good. Therefore, potted plants at home do not need too much water; just water a little, as long as the potting soil is not cracked from dryness.

Wintersweet fertilization methods

Any plant needs a certain amount of nutrients to be grown well. Although wintersweet can withstand severe cold, fertilizer still cannot be omitted where it is needed. Wintersweet cultivation methods and precautions Wintersweet cultivation methods and precautions. In fact, wintersweet is a flower that likes fertilizer very much. So when growing wintersweet bonsai, attention should be paid to choosing fertile soil, but it should not be too fertile, and wintersweet should be fertilized regularly each time.

Wintersweet pruning methods

The wintersweet commonly seen by everyone is generally relatively large. For outdoor ground planting, not pruning is also acceptable, but indoor potted wintersweet still needs regular shaping. Wintersweet has strong branching ability, and there is a saying that "wintersweet never lacks branches." Pruning at the appropriate time can make wintersweet grow more strong branches and also increase flowering

Generally, it is suitable to prune at the right time after the flowers fade and before the leaves emerge, cutting off dead branches, overly dense branches, crossing branches, and pest- or disease-damaged branches, and leaving 2 to 3 pairs of buds at the base of annual branches while cutting off the upper branches to promote branching.

Wintersweet temperature requirements

Wintersweet likes sunlight and is also tolerant of partial shade. Wintersweet cultivation methods and precautions Flower Encyclopedia. Although it can grow in cold winter, it will still suffer frost damage if the temperature is too low. It can overwinter safely at around -15°C. In areas south of Beijing, the temperature needs to be controlled within -10°C during the flowering period, otherwise the flowers will suffer frost damage.

Common diseases of plum blossoms and their solutions

Plum blossom is one of our favorite flowering trees. Planting it beside a house, or planting it in patches, gives a very good ornamental effect, but attention should also be paid to the care of plum blossoms to avoid disease problems. Below let us understand:

Diseases of plum blossoms:

Diseases of plum blossoms: 1. Gray leaf spot

Gray leaf spot is a common disease of plum blossoms. Elongated round lesions grow on the leaves, appearing brown, silvery white, or dark brown. The disease is obvious, and several lesions merge together and become larger, with small black spots growing on them; at this time the leaves fall off. On new shoots, the lesions in the early stage are elongated, light brown, water-soaked, with obvious edges; in the late stage they become sunken and constricted, with discontinuous small longitudinal cracked cankers appearing, and after onset the new shoots fall off from the base.

Solution:Cultivate robust plants with strong disease resistance. When the buds swell, spray with 50% amobam aqueous solution diluted 1,000 times with water. This disease is severe in June. Use Bordeaux mixture at 1:1:100, or 50% thiram wettable powder diluted 1,000 times with water, spraying once every two weeks, 4-5 sprays in total.

Diseases of plum blossoms: 2. Brown spot

Brown spot mainly begins to occur in June, is severe in August-September, and the rainy season favors the occurrence of this disease. The disease mainly damages the leaves and new shoots of plum blossoms. In the early stage of leaf onset, there are small purple black spots; later they become round, with clear lesion edges, purple-brown on the outer edge, gray-white or brown in the middle, slightly with concentric rings, and gray-brown moldy material appears, which is the conidial fruiting body. In the later stage the lesions dry up and fall off, forming holes. The leaves fall off easily. The lesions on new shoots are purple-brown, with gray-brown moldy material.

Solution:Collect and burn diseased plants and fallen leaves. Before budding, spray with 2-4 degrees Baumé lime sulfur mixture, or Bordeaux mixture at 1:1:120. When the disease begins in June, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder diluted 500 times with water, once every 7-10 days, 2-3 consecutive sprays.

Diseases of plum blossoms: 3. Anthracnose

Solution:In the early stage of anthracnose onset, spray 70% thiophanate 1,000-fold solution or spray zineb 600-fold solution for control. When other various diseases are found, spraying the above two solutions can also be effective.

Diseases of plum blossoms: 4. Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew often occurs in environments with high humidity, high temperature, and poor ventilation. In early spring in March, when plum blossoms bud, the tender buds and new leaves are susceptible to infection by the pathogen, and a very thin white powdery layer appears on the affected parts, followed by black or yellow particles the size of needle heads appearing on the powdery layer. In the later stage the leaves turn yellow and die.

Solution:In the early stage, spray 25% triadimefon diluted 200 times with water, or use 70% thiophanate-methyl diluted 1,500 times with water.

Diseases of plum blossoms: 5. Leaf curl

Leaf curl mainly occurs from March to May. A temperature of around 20°C is most favorable for the growth of the ascospores and bud spores of plum blossom leaf curl, damaging the tender buds and leaves of plum blossoms. The tender shoots become shortened, thickened, and densely clustered. The leaves become wrinkled and thick and fleshy. The leaf surface is rough, and the leaves curl toward the back. In the early stage of onset, the leaves are yellow, red, purple-red, or gray-white, and powdery material appears on the leaves. In severe cases, the tree vigor weakens, diseased shoots die, and flowering decreases.

Solution:Spray thiophanate or carbendazim for control, or spray 1% Bordeaux mixture, once every week, and 3-4 times can cure it.

The ornamental effect of plum blossoms is relatively good. Aside from routine care, improper care during the cultivation of plum blossoms can lead to various diseases. The editor has summarized the common disease situations of plum blossoms and their solutions, hoping to be helpful to everyone.