A Detailed Guide to Propagating Rieger Begonias from Cuttings



Rieger Begonia

Rieger begonia (Begonia × hiemalis) is a flowering plant that loves warmth and moisture, and it is mainly distributed in tropical and subtropical regions. Cuttings are a fairly commonly used propagation method. When choosing a cutting propagation method, we first need to understand some of the characteristics of Rieger begonia, which makes it easier to succeed with cuttings.

Rieger begonia likes to grow in a well-ventilated environment. It also has very strict requirements for light, temperature, water and fertilizer. If using the cutting method, you must choose late autumn to early winter. Because in this season, it is time to prune and shape the plant, and at this time you can cut off the new shoots as cuttings. Rieger begonia can be propagated either by stem cuttings or leaf cuttings. It just depends on personal preference. If you choose stem cuttings, then the length of the stem should be moderate, and use a blade to cut the lower part of the stem into a horseshoe shape. If you choose leaf cuttings, then you should choose leaves that are growing vigorously and are about six-tenths mature. Through the simple introduction above, this article will teach everyone through a flower lover's summary of their own experience with propagating Rieger begonia from cuttings. This makes it easier for beginner flower lovers to learn.

The mother plant chosen for Rieger begonia cuttings must be healthy. According to the results of many experiments, plants that have already developed stem rot are not suitable for cuttings. Unhealthy stems will have small black spots on the cut surface, and those will rot quickly. The stems used for cuttings are divided into segments; mine are all sturdy stems about 10 cm long. Leaves can also be rooted from cuttings, though of course they will not grow as well as sturdy stems. You will also have to wait a while for them to sprout, and the plant shape will certainly take shape very slowly.

Soil mix: you can use pure vermiculite, or add half a handful of perlite. Pure perlite can also grow roots, but it does not hold the plant steady easily. With pure vermiculite, after transplanting it is not easy to shake all the vermiculite off the roots, so you can use a 1:1 ratio.

Use a blade to cut the stem at an angle of about 45° (when making angled cuts on leaves, pay attention to the angle, with the cut surface facing upward), then be sure to let it sit in a cool, shaded place for 10 minutes (the time can be flexible), and wait until the cut surface is dry before inserting it.

After inserting, water thoroughly and place it in a humidity box. This one is homemade for holding violet seedlings; you can also use a clear storage box, or place it in a deep box and cover the top with plastic wrap. Put it in a place with bright light but no direct sunlight, and just maintain the temperature in the range of 10-25°C. On my balcony, the coldest nighttime temperature in winter is 10°C, and they still survive.

Looking back at failures and successes, the lessons summarized are: it is not easy to root cuttings in summer, but autumn and winter are no problem. Cuttings that survive in spring then face the dangerous dormancy period in summer, so autumn and winter cuttings are recommended. Next, the cut surface must be sliced cleanly in one cut with a sharp blade, the medium must be thoroughly saturated with water, and finally moisture retention is the key, otherwise the leaves will wilt prematurely. Humidity is best kept at 80; the ones I used to propagate always had lots of water droplets on the film. Roots grow in 20-30 days, and after 2 months they can be transplanted into loose, breathable soil, preferably a mixed medium of peat plus a little vermiculite and perlite.



[Image] Rieger begonia cutting method, Rieger begonia propagation method

1. The cutting propagation of Rieger begonia mainly consists of the stem cutting method and the leaf cutting method.

2. The cutting substrate is mainly vermiculite or clean sand soil, and the substrate needs to be sterilized before use. For stem cuttings, choose a suitable stem, with moderate length, and trim it a little. For leaf cuttings, choose vigorously growing leaves and remove them for later use.

3. Insert the cuttings into the substrate, water thoroughly, cover with plastic film, and then place in a cool, ventilated place. They can take root in about 3 weeks. Let them grow for a period of time before taking them out of the soil and transplanting.

1. Materials to prepare for Rieger begonia leaf cuttings: a healthy Rieger begonia plant, a sterilized small knife, 1 mineral water bottle, fungicide, 1 flower pot, and peat soil mixed with a small amount of perlite.

2. First, cut a 1 cm wide opening in the middle of the mineral water bottle, and fill the bottle with purified water.

3. Take a good leaf from the Rieger begonia. Be sure to choose a relatively young, green leaf that roots more easily. Use a small knife to cut it off in one cut from where the leaf stalk is close to the main stem, apply fungicide to the cut, and let it dry for about ten minutes.

4. Then insert the leaf into the opening of the mineral water bottle. Placing the bottle in a warm place makes rooting easier, and roots can form in about 1 month.

5. After the Rieger begonia has rooted, all the leaves should be temporarily planted. Put peat soil into a pot, transplant the leaves into the flower pot, and wait quietly for sprouting.

1. Seed propagation is a common method of plant propagation, and Rieger begonia can also be grown from seed. However, because Rieger begonia seeds are relatively small, a special method must be used when sowing——the fine-seed sowing method. When sowing Rieger begonia, the sowing substrate can be made by mixing vermiculite powder and peat soil. Stir the substrate evenly, put it in a seedling tray, and water thoroughly.

2. Sow the Rieger begonia seeds onto the substrate, placing them one by one. It is not necessary to cover them with soil. Wrap the seedling tray with clear plastic film and keep the temperature at around 20°C; seedlings will emerge in 2 weeks. As the seedlings grow, they slowly produce leaves, but do not remove the plastic film yet.

3. After the Start of Autumn, the plastic film can be removed, and they can be potted in early winter. Before potting, control watering. After potting, keep ventilation. As the plant grows, it can be moved into a larger pot.

How to Propagate Rieger Begonia: Rieger Begonia Propagation Methods

In late autumn and early winter, when pruning and shaping Rieger begonia, the cut-off new shoots can be used as cuttings. Do you know how to propagate Rieger begonia? Let us take a look together at the propagation methods for Rieger begonia.

The propagation of Rieger begonia mainly includes three methods: sowing, cuttings and tissue culture. The most commonly used one is generally the cutting method. In late autumn and early winter, when pruning and shaping Rieger begonia, the cut-off new shoots can be used as cuttings.

1. Rieger Begonia Cutting Method

Rieger begonia can be propagated not only by stem cuttings, but also by leaf cuttings. For stem cuttings, the length of the stem should be moderate, and use a blade to cut the lower part of the stem into a horseshoe shape. For Rieger begonia leaf cuttings, choose vigorously growing leaves that are about six-tenths mature, and use a blade to make an angled cut at the lower end of the leaf stalk.

The cutting substrate for Rieger begonia is vermiculite powder or plain sand. Contaminated substrate must be sterilized before use. After inserting the cuttings, water thoroughly, but do not let water accumulate on the leaf surface. Also cover them with plastic film, place them in diffused light, ventilate appropriately, and avoid high temperatures. The cuttings can take root in about 3 weeks.

When the stems of Rieger begonia grow new leaves, it means they have rooted. Rieger begonia obtained by stem cuttings do not have underground tubers. After 3 weeks, leaf cuttings can also grow fibrous roots from the lower part of the leaf stalk, but it takes another month and a half before adventitious buds grow from below the leaf stalk and gradually emerge from the soil.

2. Sowing Method

Because Rieger begonia seeds are very small, the fine-seed sowing method must be used. At present, Rieger begonia seeds are basically all imported, and are divided into two types: coated seeds and uncoated seeds. It is best to mail-order seeds in original packaging and without damage from a large flower and plant company, as this can ensure germination and seedling formation. Loose seeds are very difficult to germinate.

Sowing container: Because Rieger begonia coated seeds can be sorted individually, a plug seedling tray can be used; uncoated seeds can only use a seedling tray. The sowing substrate is 1 part peat soil and 1 part vermiculite powder. Crush and sterilize them, then mix and stir them, and leave them in a semi-moist state for later use.

Because peat soil is water-repellent in a dry state and cannot absorb water, it cannot be used in a dry state. When sowing, first put the substrate into the seedling tray, then water thoroughly with a watering can. Coated seeds can be sorted with tweezers, one seed per cell. Uncoated seeds can be mixed with an appropriate amount of fine vermiculite powder and broadcast onto the seedling tray.

After sowing, Rieger begonia does not need to be covered with soil; just spray with a fine watering can, then wrap the seedling tray with clear plastic film. At an ambient temperature of around 20°C, seedlings begin to emerge in about 12 days. When the Rieger begonia seedlings grow true leaves, they can be given a little ventilation to encourage root growth.

Rieger begonia seedlings grow very slowly in the first 3 months. For seedlings sown in early summer, the plastic film does not need to be removed throughout the summer; the seedlings tolerate high humidity and high temperatures. After the Start of Autumn, when the weather becomes cool, the plastic film can be gradually removed to harden the seedlings, and by early winter they can be potted.

For potting, use a relatively small flower pot with many holes in the bottom. The growing soil can be mixed from 2 parts peat soil and 1 part vermiculite powder (or 1 part plain sand). Before potting, control watering so that the growing soil in the seedling tray is in a semi-dry state; in this way, when lifting the seedlings, the root ball will not fall apart and damage the roots.

Newly potted Rieger begonia seedlings must be protected from weather changes and excessively high temperatures. At the same time, cover them with plastic film, but it must not be too tightly sealed; ventilate appropriately to prevent seedling rot. Under home conditions, Rieger begonia cannot grow into a large plant in the first year, but flowers can be seen. Only in the second year can it be grown into a large plant, and in the second year it can be moved into a larger flower pot.

3. Tissue Culture

This is an effective method for quickly obtaining large numbers of Rieger begonia seedlings, and it can also succeed under home conditions. In the season when Rieger begonia grows vigorously, use well-developed leaves as explants. Through the culture of virus-free explants, subculture and rooting culture in a certain medium, large numbers of virus-free seedlings can be obtained. This method requires a relatively large investment, so it is only used in large-scale production.