Preparations needed before single-bud cuttings of roses
There are also many varieties of roses. If it is a new variety, there will be relatively little material available for cuttings, so the single-bud cutting method can be chosen to propagate roses. The editor will introduce to you the preparations before single-bud cutting propagation of roses.
Rose
1. Branch selection: Choose healthy, pest-free, semi-lignified branches. For flowering branches, it is best to use them when the axillary buds have not yet sprouted several days after the flowers fade. Generally, branches that have already become old and lignified should not be used for cuttings.
2. Cutting preparation: Cut at 3-5 mm above the axillary bud, at a 45-degree angle. Each cutting has one bud and one leaf stalk. Leave only two small leaflets on the leaf stalk, and remove the remaining leaves.
3. Substrate selection and treatment: The ideal substrates are coarse yellow sand and coal cinder. The yellow sand must be washed with clean water to remove dust, and it is best to disinfect it with a fungicide; coal cinder is generally sifted through a 5-20 mesh, the particles should not be too large, and dust must also be removed.
Single-bud cutting technique for roses
Single-bud cutting of roses means that a section of cutting has only 1 dormant bud. Because the cutting tissue is short and small, and the nutrients and water stored within it are both low, operations should be careful and meticulous. It can only be cut with a sharp knife, not with pruning shears. The tools used need to be disinfected, sterilized, and freed of pests. The soil should be fully sun-dried, or treated with high temperature, or treated with insecticides and fungicides to kill pests and sterilize. This method is mostly used when the number of cuttings is insufficient or when introducing varieties or new varieties to speed up propagation.1. Cutting and trimming the cuttings:
According to 1 pinnate compound leaf and 1 dormant bud, at 13-3 cm downward from the leaf base scar, cut the semi-lignified branch into one section; the part of the stem above the leaf may be long or short according to the actual situation. When cutting, hold the branch with one hand and the knife with the other, and at the selected position, cut down with a horizontal or slightly diagonal stroke in the air. Never place one side on a wooden board or other object and press down with the knife to cut. After finishing, use pruning shears or leaf scissors to cut off 1/3 to 1/2 of the small leaflets, soak in a 1000-fold solution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder for about 1 minute, and then insert for cutting immediately after removing.
2. Cutting substrate:
Choose sandy loam, fine sandy soil, or construction sand, and 3095^50% vermiculite may also be added. After turning and mixing evenly, fill it into a seedbed, or a flowerpot, or a shallow wooden box, or a seedling flat, press firm and scrape level, and water thoroughly. Use a wooden stick, bamboo stick, or metal awl and other tools with a diameter larger than the cutting diameter to make vertical holes downward in the soil surface, ?L about W cm deep. Place the base of the cutting into the hole, with the dormant bud and the base of the leaf axis roughly horizontal with the soil surface or slightly deeper, but not too deep, and press firm around the base. The plant and row spacing should be such that the leaves do not overlap or affect each other.
After cutting is completed, spray with a fine-hole nozzle. When cutting in containers, the soaking method may also be used to make the soil thoroughly wet. Shade 40%-50%. In the early stage, spray water 4-5 times a day, and stop spraying at night. During the day, the natural temperature is 24-28°C, and roots can form in 20-30 days. After rooting, gradually remove the shading material, open the windows to increase ventilation, and when most of the dormant buds of the cuttings sprout and grow new branches, dig up the seedlings or remove them from the pots for planting. For other matters, refer to greenhouse cutting propagation.
Sharing experience with single-bud cutting of roses
I tried buying two rose toothpick seedlings on a certain treasure shopping site. Very quickly, they bloomed for the first time and looked pretty good. I regretted buying too few, so I wanted to try propagating them myself by cuttings. Because they were two-month-old seedlings, there were no branches for me to take cuttings from. I ruthlessly cut off one flowering branch, very short, right? So I divided it into 5 sections, each with one bud. I temporarily crammed online about all kinds of cutting methods from the masters, such as vermiculite and all kinds of advanced soil, but I had none of them. All I had was garden soil dug from the roadside in front of the door, very sticky, so I thought of the makeshift method of laying river sand at the bottom layer of the cutting box, so that the upper garden soil could retain water and the lower river sand could provide aeration.
With all kinds of materials ready, I started cutting:
After inserting them, water thoroughly, place in a cool and ventilated place, water every night, and then all that is left is to wait patiently. Three weeks later, they sprouted.
By the full month, gently pull the branches; if they cannot be pulled out, it means roots have grown. Ready to pot up, the root system was pretty good, 4 out of 5 survived.
The worst root system also looked like this
Actually, all of them should have survived. I could not resist meddling. One of them was pulled out to check three times midway. Although it had also grown roots, in the end it still developed a black stem. This is how it looked two weeks after repotting. After repotting, I directly threw it under the sun for full exposure. Because it was soil cutting, I could not be bothered to acclimate the seedlings.
The new branches are very sturdy. The advantages of single-bud cutting are very obvious. Besides being able to propagate more seedlings in large numbers within a short time, all the nutrients are given to this one bud point for development. Later, when pruning or doing other things, it is also very convenient. Since it was my first time growing roses and also my first time taking cuttings, I only tested one variety, Balzac. There was no condition to test the rooting situation of each variety, so you might as well give it a try.