How to Propagate Jerusalem Cherry? Detailed Methods and Precautions

Livestock Farming Jan 1, 1970 0 views

A New Balcony Favorite: Jerusalem Cherry, also known as Jiqingguo, Four-Season Berry, Coral Bean, etc. Its fruit resembles a cherry except for color, and resembles a small tomato except for shape. This dwarf plant can fill entire branches with fruit during harvest season, is suitable for potted cultivation, and its propagation methods are also very simple.

Jerusalem Cherry

I. Growth Habits of Jerusalem Cherry

It is especially commonly found at field edges, roadsides, in thickets or beside ditches, common in areas at altitudes of 1350-2800 m, and also distributed in areas at 600 m.

Jerusalem cherry likes sunlight, warmth, and tolerates high temperatures, with no sunscald occurring above 35°C. It is not shade-tolerant, nor cold-tolerant, nor drought-resistant, and in hot summers it fears rain and waterlogging. It has low soil requirements, but grows vigorously in fertile, loose, well-drained slightly acidic or neutral soil. It has strong sprouting ability. Not cold-tolerant, potted ornamental plants in the north need to be moved into a greenhouse to overwinter.

II. What Are the Propagation Methods for Jerusalem Cherry?

Jerusalem cherry propagation usually uses cutting propagation and seed propagation. Cutting propagation is best done in spring and autumn, and the sowing time is March-April in spring.

1. Sowing Method

Harvest ripe seeds in winter, rinse and dry them in the sun, and sow before Qingming the following year. For small-scale propagation, this can be done in a flower pot: scatter the seeds evenly on the surface, cover with a thin layer of soil, then soak thoroughly by placing the pot in a water basin. To maintain moisture, cover the pot opening with glass or plastic film, and germination will occur in about a week. When new leaves grow, the seedlings can be divided and transplanted. For large-scale seedling cultivation, sow in a seedbed, then spray thoroughly with a fine-holed watering can, and thereafter spray whenever the soil looks dry, keeping it moist. After transplanting, apply a light fertilizer once and place in a location with ample light.

2. Cutting Method

When taking cuttings, cut (or thin out) growing branches about 8-10 cm long with terminal buds (remove any flower buds if present), and insert them using the conventional method. Keep the seedbed or pot soil moist, and regularly spray water mist on the terminal buds and terminal leaves of the cuttings. At a temperature between 18-28°C, they will root in about 10 days. If the cutting seedlings have well-developed roots and the plants are low-growing, they are suitable for cultivating into small ornamental fruit potted flowers. After autumn cuttings, by winter you can enjoy the brilliant red clusters of fruit.

Jerusalem Cherry

III. Disease Prevention and Control as a Propagation Precaution for Jerusalem Cherry

Potted Jerusalem cherry is prone to anthracnose during high summer temperatures, mainly harming leaves but also stems. There are two types of symptoms: one occurs on leaves, with round lesions appearing in the early stage, changing from round reddish-brown to grayish-white, then to dark brown with concentric rings of black dots, which are the pathogen's acervuli. This disease occurs on leaf margins and leaf tips, and in severe cases the leaves wither, turn black, and die. The pathogen is a fungal disease, and the fungus overwinters as mycelium in host residues or soil. Old leaves begin to show symptoms from late April to early May, with rapid development during June-July, and more severe occurrence during the rainy season. New leaves begin to show symptoms from August. When potted flowers are placed too densely and leaves overlap, the disease spreads easily, but disease resistance varies among varieties.

IV. Prevention and Control Methods

1. Select excellent disease-resistant varieties.

1. In the early stage of disease, cut off diseased leaves and burn them promptly to prevent the pathogen from spreading, avoid placing plants too densely and overhead watering, and always maintain ventilation and light.

4. In the early stage of disease, spray with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 700-800 times dilution or 75% chlorothalonil at 500 times dilution.

5. Pest control: The main pest of Jerusalem cherry is aphids, which are small, green or black, and often gather in groups on the tender branches and leaves of various flowers to suck nutrients.

6. Control method: Spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution or 50% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 1500-2000 times dilution.

The reason disease prevention and control for Jerusalem cherry is placed under propagation precautions is mainly because: without a healthy and good plant, how can you propagate excellent Jerusalem cherries! So whether sowing or cutting, you must choose an excellent substrate.

Cultivation Methods and Precautions for Jerusalem Cherry

Chinese scientific name: Dong Shanhu (Jerusalem Cherry)

Latin scientific name: Solanum pseudocapsicum L. var. diflorum (Vell.) Bitter

Other names: Coral Cherry, Jiqingguo

Kingdom: Plantae

Phylum: Angiosperms

Class: Dicotyledoneae

Subclass: Sympetalae

Order: Tubiflorae

Family: Solanaceae

Tribe: Solaneae

Genus: Solanum

Distribution: Native to Europe and the subtropics; wild in Yunnan, China

Jerusalem cherry, currently named Coral Bean (Solanum pseudocapsicum L. var. diflorum (Vell.) Bitter). An upright small shrub, much-branched and clump-forming, cultivated as a 1-2 year plant. Plant height 30-60 cm. Leaves alternate, narrowly oblong to oblanceolate. Flowers in summer and autumn, small, white, axillary. Berry, deep orange-red, spherical, diameter 1-1.5 cm. Fruits set after flowering, persist for a long time, and can remain on the branches until after the Spring Festival. Currently cultivated dwarf varieties exist, with a short, much-branched plant form. Berry, seeds small, fruit shape broadly ellipsoid, pointed at the tip. Other names include: Coral Cherry, Jiqingguo, Coral Seed, Coral Bean, Jade Coral, Red Coral, Wild Chili, Wild Sea Pepper, Kan Cherry, Four-Season Berry.

1. Morphological Characteristics

Coral Bean (Beijing); Jade Coral (Japan); Thorn Pomegranate (Mianxian, Shaanxi); Foreign Sea Pepper (Leibo, Sichuan); Dong Shanhu (Anjiang, Hunan). (Variety)
Upright branched small shrub, 0.3-1.5 m tall, branchlets when young covered with dendritic stellate hairs, later gradually glabrescent. Leaves paired, unequal in size, elliptic-lanceolate, 2-5 cm long or slightly longer, 1-1.5 cm wide or slightly wider, apex obtuse or shortly pointed, base cuneate and decurrent into a short petiole, leaf surface glabrous, leaf underside often with dendritic stellate hairs along the veins, margin entire or slightly wavy, midvein prominent beneath, lateral veins 4-7 on each side, conspicuous beneath; petiole about 2-5 mm long, when young covered with dendritic stellate hairs, later gradually glabrescent. Inflorescence short, axillary, usually 1-3-flowered, solitary or in a scorpioid cyme, peduncle short and almost absent, pedicel about 5 mm long, flowers small, about 8-10 mm in diameter; calyx green, 5-parted, lobes ovate-lanceolate, apex obtuse, about 5 mm long; corolla white, tube concealed within the calyx, about 1.5 mm long, limb about 6.5-8.5 mm long, 5-parted, lobes ovate, about 4-6 mm long, about 4 mm wide, apex pointed or obtuse; filaments about 1 mm long, anthers oblong, about twice the length of the filaments, apical pores slightly inward; ovary subglobose, about 1.5 mm in diameter, style about 4-6 mm long, stigma truncate. Berry solitary, spherical, coral-red or orange-yellow, 1-2 cm in diameter; seeds flat, about 3 mm in diameter. Flowering April-July, fruit ripening August-December.

2. Related Species

Coral Cherry (original variety)
var. pseudo-capsicum
Upright branched small shrub, up to 2 m tall, entire plant smooth and glabrous. Leaves alternate, narrowly oblong to lanceolate, 1-6 cm long, 0.5-1.5 cm wide, apex pointed or obtuse, base narrowly cuneate and decurrent into the petiole, margin entire or wavy, both surfaces smooth and glabrous, midvein prominent beneath, lateral veins 6-7 pairs, more conspicuous beneath; petiole about 2-5 mm long, not clearly distinct from the leaf blade. Flowers mostly solitary, rarely in scorpioid cymes, without or nearly without a peduncle, extra-axillary or nearly opposite the leaves, pedicel about 3-4 mm long; flowers small, white, about 0.8-1 cm in diameter; calyx green, about 4 mm in diameter, 5-parted, lobes about 1.5 mm long; corolla tube concealed within the calyx, less than 1 mm long, limb about 5 mm long, lobes 5, ovate, about 3.5 mm long, about 2 mm wide; filaments less than 1 mm long, anthers yellow, oblong, about 2 mm long; ovary subglobose, about 1 mm in diameter, style short, about 2 mm long, stigma truncate. Berry orange-red, 1-1.5 cm in diameter, calyx persistent, fruit stalk about 1 cm long, enlarged at the tip. Seeds disc-shaped, flat, about 2-3 mm in diameter. Flowering early summer, fruiting late autumn.

3. Growth Habits

It is especially commonly found at field edges, roadsides, in thickets or beside ditches, common in areas at altitudes of 1350-2800 m, and also distributed in areas at 600 m.
Jerusalem cherry likes sunlight, warmth, and tolerates high temperatures, with no sunscald occurring above 35°C. It is not shade-tolerant, nor cold-tolerant, nor drought-resistant, and in hot summers it fears rain and waterlogging. It has low soil requirements, but grows vigorously in fertile, loose, well-drained slightly acidic or neutral soil. It has strong sprouting ability. Not cold-tolerant, potted ornamental plants in the north need to be moved into a greenhouse to overwinter.

Cultivation Methods and Precautions for Coral Cactus (Ji Shanhu) - How to Grow Coral Cactus

Coral is undoubtedly beautiful and precious, and "Ji" was an ancient term of address for a beauty, so Coral Cactus (Ji Shanhu), as a beauty among corals, must be incomparably gorgeous. However, whether it deserves such a name still remains to be tested by people. Let's take a look together below!

Cultivation Methods and Precautions for Coral Cactus

1. Soil Requirements

When cultivating, the pot soil should preferably be well-drained, breathable, calcium-rich sandy soil. It can be prepared with 3 parts river sand, 2 parts shells, 2 parts coal cinder, and 3 parts leaf mold (pond soil).

2. Planting Method

Prepare a relatively large pot (a coarse clay pot is preferable), mix the soil, and keep it slightly moist. Select some relatively sturdy stem segments (one node is enough) and plant them in the pot, then spray with water to make the soil surface adhere, and then place it directly under the sun to bake. Do not water frequently; keep the pot soil dry. After some time, some stems will begin to grow small golden-yellow spines, and the stems will begin to flatten slightly, widen, and show a tendency toward paddle shapes.

Not watering frequently is the method to force the growth of paddle-shaped stem segments. If the new growth is kept consistently moist from the very beginning, then the new stems will not show a tendency toward paddle shapes, but will grow in the form of the original plant. When the stem segments grow to about 2 cm wide, they can be potted up.

3. Fertilization Method

Coral Cactus should not be given chemical fertilizers, as this easily causes root rot; it is best to apply little or none. In spring and late summer to early autumn, apply two rounds each of decomposed liquid fertilizer at half-month intervals. The pot soil should be dry rather than wet; if it stays too wet for a long time, the lower part of the plant will rot, and this will quickly spread to the whole plant.

4. Light Requirements

If Coral Cactus is placed long-term in an indoor location with insufficient light, it will become leggy, with new stems pale green and very slender, giving the whole plant a different look. But if it is subsequently moved outdoors, the newly grown stems will thicken again, which will then seriously affect the overall shape of the plant. So do not arbitrarily change the light conditions for Coral Cactus; keep the light relatively stable.

5. Precautions

In the second year after transplanting, change the pot soil once before the spring growing season, and continue the same management. In the vigorous growth period, fully paddle-shaped stem segments will grow, but at this time the stem segments are not very large and the plant is not tall. If you want larger stem segments, you must remove some excess stem buds to let it "stand out alone." In the third spring, repot into a slightly larger pot. With proper management, during the vigorous growth period it should grow its largest stem segments.

For a fully formed paddle-shaped plant, extra care must be taken with watering and fertilization; once it rots, it will be a great loss of several years of effort. Mainly pay attention to the following points: avoid applying concentrated fertilizer; prefer dry over wet; keep sunlight adequate.

How to Grow Coral Cactus

Coral Cactus likes sunlight but fears direct harsh sun; for home cultivation it can be placed in front of a window, on a balcony, or in other bright spots with scattered light. If light is insufficient, leggy growth will occur, new stems will appear pale green and become very slender, and the plant will be in another state.

During the winter and summer dormancy periods, reduce watering and provide shade. During the spring and autumn growing periods, when watering, wait until the pot soil is completely dry before watering, and when watering, water thoroughly.

The new stems of Coral Cactus are very tender, and in the wild they are easily eaten; in home cultivation they are also often eaten by pests such as snails, so pay attention to prevention and catch them promptly.

When Does Coral Cactus Bloom?

From the time of planting or from cutting propagation, Coral Cactus must grow for three years before it blooms. If propagated from seed, it takes five years to bloom, though with good cultivation it may bloom earlier.

The flowering period of Coral Cactus is generally in midsummer, so the flowers at that time are truly beautiful and abundant.

The flowers of Coral Cactus are yellow, fresh and pleasant, with a faint delicate fragrance. The flowers open their petals like lotuses, layer upon layer, and are yellow from inside to outside.

What to Do If Coral Cactus Becomes Leggy

Generally, when a Coral Cactus plant becomes leggy, growing tall and thin, you first need to find the cause. Basically, provide sufficient light; for indoor cultivation, it is best to place it in a bright location, and it can often be moved outdoors to get more sun, which can make the plant thicken again, but it easily affects the plant's shape. Water and fertilizer must be reasonably controlled, and water less. Generally, with more sunlight and less watering, leggy growth can be inhibited.

For a Coral Cactus plant that has already begun to grow leggy, if discovered early, it can be cared for as described above to inhibit further leggy growth. A plant that has already grown very leggy is difficult to restore, and can only be gradually built up. You can also cut off the leggy branches and use them for cuttings to propagate new plants.

People who know Coral Cactus will know that its beauty has layers, just like coral. So for those who grow this succulent, admiring Coral Cactus in leisure time is truly the best gift to life, and also the highest evaluation and reward for Coral Cactus.