What are the propagation methods for camellias? A detailed guide to common propagation techniques
Camellia
Camellia buds ready to burst look especially shy and beautiful against the green leaves and under the sunlight. Spring is the season when camellias bloom, a great time for people to admire the flowers, and also a good time to propagate camellias. So what are the propagation methods for camellias?
I. Cutting propagation
Mid-June and around the end of August are the most suitable times. Choose current-year semi-ripened branches from the outer part of the canopy that are firm in tissue, have intact leaves and plump leaf buds as cuttings, 8-10 cm long, keeping 2 leaves at the tip. When cutting, keep a little old wood at the base if possible; after insertion, callus tissue forms easily and roots develop quickly. Cut the cuttings in the early morning and insert them immediately, inserting about 3 cm into the substrate. During insertion, the leaves should overlap each other, and after insertion press firmly with your fingers. Shallow insertion is better, as it allows air circulation and faster healing and rooting. The cutting bed needs shading, daily misting of the leaf surface to keep it moist, and a temperature maintained at 20-25°C. About 3 weeks after insertion, healing begins, and roots form after 6 weeks. When the roots reach 3-4 cm long, transplant into pots. When taking cuttings, dip the base of the cuttings in a 0.4%-0.5% indolebutyric acid solution for 2-5 seconds, which has a clear effect of promoting rooting.
II. Grafting propagation
Often used for varieties that are difficult to root from cuttings or have limited propagation material. Grafting in May-June, when new shoots have become semi-lignified, gives the highest survival rate, and after successful grafting, buds sprout and shoots grow quickly. The main rootstock is Camellia oleifera (oil camellia); seeds are collected in October, stored in sand over winter, sown in early April of the following year, and when the seedlings grow to 4-5 cm, they can be used for grafting. Using the greenwood cleft grafting method, use a blade to cut away the embryonic bud portion of the bud rootstock, make a vertical cut upward along the pith from the center of the cross-section of the hypocotyl, then take one node of camellia scion and cut the base below the node into a regular wedge shape. Immediately insert the prepared scion into the bottom of the rootstock cleft, align the cambium on both sides, bind with cotton thread, and cover with a clean plastic bag. Remove the bag after about 40 days; sprouting and shoot growth occur after about 60 days.
III. Air layering propagation
Air layering is mostly done in April-May. The method is to select a branch from the previous year, make a ring girdle at the layering site, with a girdle width of 0.5 cm; wrap the girdled area with a suitably sized plastic film, with a wrapping length of 10-15 cm. First tie the lower opening tightly, fill with moist potting soil, keep the soil moist at all times, then tie the upper opening tightly; after roots form, it can be cut off and planted separately.
Camellia
IV. Seed propagation
Suitable for single-petaled or semi-double varieties. Seeds mature in mid-October and can be sown immediately. Shallow sowing is better, using vermiculite as the substrate, covering with 6 mm, at room temperature 21°C, with 10 hours of light each night, which can promote seed germination. Germination begins 15 days after sowing, seedlings reach 8 cm in height within 30 days, and are transplanted when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves.
V. Tissue culture propagation
The explants are usually seedlings, which after routine sterilization are cut into 1 cm lengths and inoculated on MS medium supplemented with 1 mg/L kinetin, 1 mg/L 6-benzylaminopurine and 0.1 mg/L indoleacetic acid. After 4 weeks of culture, only callus tissue forms, without shoots. After transferring to new medium, single shoots of 4 cm begin to form, then they are soaked in a 0.5 mg/L indolebutyric acid solution for 20 minutes, then transferred to 1/2 MS medium, and roots grow after 4 weeks. After growing for 8 weeks on the rooting medium, the seedlings are transplanted into pots containing perlite and peat.
The above are five propagation methods for camellias. Overall, they are relatively easy to propagate. As long as the operation method is correct, the medium is well managed, and the environmental temperature is well controlled, camellias can certainly be propagated successfully.
How to grow camellias: What are the cultivation methods for camellias?
Now that living standards are getting better and better, many people grow plants at home to fill their home life with vitality. Camellias are relatively superior and are many people's choice. So do you know the cultivation methods for camellias? Below, the editor introduces the cultivation methods for camellias.
Cultivation methods for camellias
First, lighting conditions. Camellias avoid strong light, so when planting, be sure to pay attention to sunlight. In spring and autumn, sufficient light is required, but in summer, be sure to avoid direct sunlight. If camellias are exposed to strong light for too long, they can easily die. If conditions permit, moving them under a shade shed is best.
Second, temperature considerations. Camellias are neither cold-tolerant nor heat-tolerant, and their most suitable temperature is 18-25°C. Therefore, the environmental temperature must not be too high or too low, otherwise it will affect their growth. Pay special attention in winter: the indoor temperature must be above 3°C; if it drops below 0°C, they will suffer frost damage.
Third, watering matters. Camellias like a moist environment, so special attention must be paid: they should not be too dry, not too wet, and not alternately dry and wet. Generally, in spring, water more to promote sprouting. In summer, water twice daily, morning and evening, and it is best to water the leaf surface. Never water when the plant is at high temperature. Autumn is the same as spring, but in winter, watering requires care; it is best to water before and after the plant, and do not water every day, preferably once every two or three days.
Fourth, key points of fertilizing. Camellias relatively like fertilizer, so throughout the cultivation process, special attention must be paid to the use of fertilizer. For example, add phosphorus and potassium fertilizer when potting. But fertilizing also has a limit; by no means too much. Generally, fertilize about 3 times in the nearly half year after flowering, and fertilizing once in winter is enough. To make the flowers more beautiful, it is best to include more phosphorus fertilizer in the fertilizer.
Fifth, pruning of flowering branches. Pruning camellias is very important. Generally, cut off branches that affect the tree shape, as well as diseased and weak branches. Also tidy the flower buds; once the buds are too dense, they should also be thinned. After the flowers fade, remove them promptly to reduce nutrient consumption.
Sixth, repotting camellias. Many people overlook this point. Many people plant them and then never repot. In fact, this is very wrong. Camellias generally need repotting once every two years, changing to a larger pot, which is beneficial to their growth. The timing of repotting requires special attention; it is best in April. When repotting, pay attention not to remove all the old soil, add a small amount of base fertilizer, and then water.
Seventh, prevention and control of diseases and pests. Camellias are very prone to illness. The two common main diseases are black mold and anthracnose. At this time, it is only necessary to spray 0.5 degree Bordeaux mixture. The main pest of camellias is the tea shoot moth; at this time, it is mainly enough to cut off the infested shoots.
Eighth, soil requirements. Soil is the foundation of camellia growth. All nutrients and so on for camellias are obtained from the soil, so the requirements for soil are quite high. Generally, the soil should have high humus content, with a pH between 5-6.5, slightly acidic. The best soil mix is: 50% mountain soil, 40% sawdust or edible mushroom residue, and 10% cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphate fertilizer powder.
Ninth, air circulation. The place where camellias grow has extremely high requirements for air circulation. They grow best in a gentle breeze, but camellias are very afraid of northwest winds and strong winds, because northwest winds and strong winds easily cause water to evaporate too quickly, making camellias' supply and demand lose balance, which is not conducive to camellia growth.
The above is the relevant introduction in this article. I believe after reading it, you also have a simple understanding of this. If needed, you can continue to follow No.1 Home Network to learn more information.
What are the cultivation methods for Chidan camellia?
Chidan, a variety of camellia, belongs to evergreen shrubs and small trees. So, what are the cultivation methods for Chidan camellia?
I. Cultivation methods for Chidan camellia
1. Temperature: Camellias should be placed in a warm, moist, ventilated and well-lit place. In spring, sufficient light is required; in summer, pay attention to shading, avoiding direct sunlight and west-facing sun exposure. If placed on a balcony, they are often accidentally sunburned to death.
2. Watering: The cultivation of potted camellias should maintain the soil in a moist state, but not overly wet, to prevent alternating dry and wet conditions. Generally, in spring, water appropriately more to facilitate sprouting and shoot growth; in summer, insist on watering in the morning and evening, preferably spraying water on the leaf surface to make the leaves thoroughly wet. Do not use a rapid stream to water directly or flood the pot, do not water with hot water, and avoid watering around midday when temperatures are high.
3. Fertilizing: Camellias like fertilizer. When potting, pay attention to placing base fertilizer in the potting soil, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Fertilizers applied include decomposed bone meal, hair, chicken feathers, rice husk ash, poultry manure, and superphosphate and other substances. Do not fertilize excessively, and do not apply concentrated fertilizer. This is because camellias do not like concentrated fertilizer; otherwise, it will damage the root system and reduce the number of flowers. The base fertilizer for camellias is best made of organic fertilizer, such as fermented chicken and duck manure, animal organs, soybean cake, fish bone meal, etc. These organic fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other components, are relatively comprehensive, and have long-lasting fertilizer effect. When applying, they can be sun-dried, crushed into powder, first mixed with 5-6 times dry soil, and then scattered 2-3 cm away from the plant roots when repotting and filling the potting soil.
4. Pruning: Camellias grow relatively slowly and should not be pruned excessively. Generally, it is enough to cut off leggy branches that affect the tree shape, as well as diseased and weak branches. If there are too many flower buds on each branch, thin the flowers to keep only 1-2 and maintain a certain distance, removing the rest early to avoid consuming nutrients. In addition, promptly remove flowers nearing withering, which can also reduce nutrient consumption, helping the plant grow robustly and form new flower buds.
5. Pest and disease control: The main diseases of camellias include black mold, anthracnose, etc., which can be controlled by spraying 0.5 degree Bordeaux mixture. The main pest is the tea shoot moth; the control method is to cut off the infested shoots, generally best done from April to June.
6. Placement location: Camellias should be placed in a warm, moist, ventilated and well-lit place. In spring, sufficient light is required; in summer, strong sunlight is not suitable for growth, so it is best to place them in a cool place, avoiding direct sunlight. If placed on a balcony, the effect is relatively good and it is also convenient for viewing, but pay attention to the safety of people below.
7. Repotting: After camellias have been potted for 1 year, it is recommended to repot and change the soil once, which helps provide a better growing environment. The new pot should be larger than the old one to facilitate the stretching and development of the root system. Repotting time is best in April in spring or in autumn. During the process, remove some old roots as much as possible, replace with fertile, loose new soil, and combine with placing base fertilizer.
Growth habits of Chidan camellia
Likes semi-shade, avoids scorching sun. Likes a warm climate, with an optimal growth temperature of 18-25°C, and the starting flowering temperature is 2°C. Slightly cold-tolerant; general varieties can withstand low temperatures of -10°C and tolerate summer heat, but growth is inhibited above 36°C. Likes high air humidity, avoids dryness, and is suitable for growing in areas with annual precipitation above 1200 mm. Likes fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 5.5-6.5 being best.