What are the propagation methods for lotus? Detailed explanation of common propagation methods

Lotus

Lotus is a herbaceous flowering plant that grows in water; its neck and roots are large and thick, its leaves are as beautiful as a young girl's skirt, and its flowers are eye-catching whether open or closed. In the 1980s, lotus was rated as one of China's top ten famous flowers. Its fruit can be eaten, and its flowers and leaves can be used for ornamental purposes, making it a very valuable plant. How to propagate lotus has become a topic discussed by many novice flower growers, so the following focuses on the propagation methods and management points for lotus.

I. The growing environment of lotus

Lotus is an aquatic plant that prefers relatively stable, calm shallow water, lakes and marshes, swamps, and ponds, which are its suitable habitats. The water requirement of lotus depends on its variety. Large varieties such as Ancient Lotus and Red Thousand Petals need a relatively deeper water level, but it must not exceed 1.7 m. Small and medium varieties are only suitable for water depths of 20-60 cm. At the same time, lotus is very sensitive to water loss. In summer, if water is not supplied for just 3 hours, the lotus leaves planted in a water tank will wilt; if water is stopped for one day, the edges of the lotus leaves will scorch and the flower buds will wither back. Lotus is also very fond of light and needs a full-light environment during its growth period. Lotus is extremely intolerant of shade; when grown in semi-shade, it will show a strong phototropic tendency.

II. Propagation methods of lotus

1. Seed propagation

First, break the shell. In May-June, rub the sunken end of the seed on cement ground or a rough stone until it breaks, then soak the seed and raise seedlings. Keep the water clean and change it frequently. Sprouting occurs in about one week, and roots form after two weeks, after which it can be transplanted. Plant one plant per pot, and the water layer should be shallow; do not submerge the lotus leaves in water. About 90% can bloom in the same year, but not many blooms appear that year.

2. Lotus rhizome division propagation

Mid-March to mid-April is the best period for repotting and planting lotus rhizomes. Planting too early may be affected by cold waves, and the seed rhizomes are prone to cold damage. In northern regions, transparent agricultural film can be used for coverage when cold waves occur. Before planting, mix the pot soil into a paste. When planting, insert the top end of the seed rhizome diagonally into the mud along the edge of the pot at 20 degrees; for bowl lotus, the depth is about 5 cm. For large lotus, the depth is about 10 cm, with the head low and the tail high. The tail half should be tilted up so that water does not enter the tail of the rhizome. After planting, place the pot in the sun so that fine cracks appear on the surface soil, which helps the seed rhizome bond fully with the soil. Then add a small amount of water, and after buds emerge, gradually deepen the water level, finally maintaining a 3-5 cm water layer. For pond planting, the early water layer is the same as for pot lotus, and later it should be kept at a level that does not submerge the lotus leaves.

Lotus

III. Management after lotus propagation

1. Water and fertilizer management

Lotus is an aquatic plant and cannot do without water at any time during its growth period. In the early growth stage, the water layer should be controlled at about 3 cm; water that is too deep is not conducive to raising soil temperature. If using tap water, it is best to store it in another tank and expose it to the sun for one or two days before use. Summer is the peak growth period for lotus, and the pot must never lack water. After winter begins, the pot soil should also be kept moist to prevent the seed rhizomes from drying out due to lack of water. Lotus fertilizer is mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, supplemented by nitrogen fertilizer. If the soil is relatively fertile, no fertilization may be needed throughout the year. Decomposed cake fertilizer and chicken, duck, and goose manure are the most ideal fertilizers. For small pots, applying half a liang is enough; for large pots, at most only 1-2 liang can be applied, and it must not be applied excessively, and it must be fully mixed with the soil. During the peak growth period, if the leaves are found to be yellow and weak, 0.5 g of urea per box can be mixed into the mud, rolled into small balls of about 10 g, and one ball applied per pot in the soil at the center of the pot; effects can be seen in 7 days.

2. Overwintering management

After winter begins, place the pot indoors or bury it below the frozen soil layer. In areas north of the Yellow River, in addition to burying it below the frozen soil layer, agricultural film should also be used for coverage, and the pot soil should be kept moist throughout the winter.

If lotus is grown only for ornamental purposes, it can be allowed to propagate freely, but if you want to improve its ornamental value or propagate lotus roots for sale, then the above methods must be followed strictly.

How to grow Echeveria - Propagation methods for Echeveria

Echeveria is fleshy and succulent throughout the plant, with short stems and creeping branches. Today I will share with you how to grow Echeveria and how to propagate Echeveria.

How to grow Echeveria:

1. Soil

The potting soil should be loose and fertile, with good drainage and air permeability. You can use half leaf mold or peat soil and half coarse sand or vermiculite, and mix in a small amount of calcium-rich materials such as bone meal, then use after mixing evenly. Because the soil is moist, newly planted plants do not need too much water; keep it semi-dry to help the root system recover.

2. Temperature

Echeveria prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded growing environment. The suitable growing temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 15°C. In winter, if the nighttime temperature is not lower than 5°C and the daytime temperature is above 15°C, the plant can continue to grow, and it can be watered normally with appropriate fertilization; if watering is controlled to make the plant dormant, it can also tolerate a low temperature of 0°C. Sempervivum is not heat-tolerant. After May, plant growth gradually stops and enters the summer dormancy period. At home, it can be kept under a corridor or on the inner side of a balcony and other places without direct sunlight, with good ventilation and no rain, and watering should be controlled and fertilization stopped to avoid plant rot caused by stuffiness, humidity, and soil water accumulation.

3. Light

Echeveria is dormant during high summer temperatures and cold winter temperatures. Its main growing period is in the cooler spring and autumn seasons. During the growing period, it requires sufficient sunlight. If light is insufficient, the plant shape will become loose and not compact, affecting its ornamental value, while plants grown in sufficient light have thick, plump leaves, a compact plant shape, and bright leaf color.

4. Watering

For watering, follow the principle of not watering until dry, and water thoroughly when watering. Avoid long-term water accumulation to prevent root rot, but do not let it become too dry either, otherwise although the plant will not die, growth will be slow, leaf color will be dull, and it will lack vitality. During high summer temperatures, leaf water evaporation is high and water demand is greater. If water is lacking, the leaves are very likely to wilt, so it is necessary to frequently spray water on the leaf surface and at the same time keep the environment humid, but water accumulation in the pot must be avoided, otherwise it will cause root rot.

5. Winter care

In the low-temperature winter, Echeveria roots rot easily if there is too much water, turning the plant into a rootless plant. During high summer temperatures, it is also not suitable to water too much; you can spray a little less water, and never let it be washed by sudden rain. During the growing period, fertilize once a month to keep the leaves green and jade-like. However, excessive fertilization will also cause leggy stems and leaves. During the growing season, place the pot in a ventilated, well-lit place. In winter, bring it indoors for warmth, with room temperature around 10°C, and give sufficient light. Echeveria that is 2-3 years old or older tends to age, so new seedlings should be cultivated and renewed in time.

Propagation methods for Echeveria:

1. Division

It is best to do this in spring. Cutting propagation is commonly used. Indoor cuttings can be done in all four seasons, with August-October being better, as rooting is fast and the survival rate is high. Cuttings can use single leaves, tiller branches, or terminal branches. There is no limit to the length of the cuttings taken, but the cut should be dried before inserting into the sand bed. After insertion, roots generally form in about 20 days.

2. Leaf cuttings

Lay complete mature leaves flat on moist sandy soil, with the leaf surface facing up and the leaf back facing down. There is no need to cover with soil. Place in a cool place. In about 10 days, small leaf clusters and new roots can grow from the leaf base. Bury the root system into the soil. Afterward, let it get more sun and water and fertilize appropriately, and it will gradually grow into a robust new plant.

3. Cuttings

Single leaves, tiller branches, or terminal branches can be used. There is no limit to the length of the cuttings taken, but after the cut dries, remove the lower leaves and insert into the sand bed. After insertion, roots generally form in about 20 days. The cutting medium must not be too wet, otherwise the cut is prone to yellowing and rotting. When roots are 2-3 cm long, pot them up. Leaf cuttings can also be used.

How to grow Nymphoides indica - Propagation methods for Nymphoides indica

Nymphoides indica often grows in lakes, ponds, rivers, and streams. In summer and autumn, it produces small white flowers, and viewed from a distance, it has a very pastoral scenery. Today I will share knowledge on how to grow Nymphoides indica and how to propagate Nymphoides indica.

How to grow Nymphoides indica

The plant and row spacing for cultivating Nymphoides indica varies according to ornamental requirements, generally around 60 cm. Use shallow water at first, and then gradually deepen the water level according to the plant's growth. Generally, when planting in a pond, a water depth of around 40 cm is more suitable, and for pot cultivation, a water depth of around 10 cm is sufficient.

Potted Nymphoides indica generally uses ordinary pond mud as the substrate. The substrate should not be too fertile, otherwise the branches and leaves will flourish but flowering will instead be sparse. Usually keep it in sufficient sunlight, and the pot must not lack water, otherwise Nymphoides indica is also very likely to dry out.

In order to promote the growth and development of Nymphoides indica plants and improve their ornamental effect, during the growing period of Nymphoides indica plants, weeds and debris should be removed in time to keep the water body clean, and 1-2 additional fertilizer applications should be made along with weeding.

In winter, water should be kept in the pot, and it can overwinter if placed in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot. Winter temperatures in the north are relatively low, so overwintering treatment is needed when growing Nymphoides indica. The main pest of Nymphoides indica is aphids, and spraying with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution can achieve control.

In addition, potted Nymphoides indica generally needs to be divided once every 2-3 years.

Propagation methods for Nymphoides indica

Nymphoides indica can be propagated by seeds and by division. Seed propagation of Nymphoides indica involves soaking the seeds in warm water at 22-25°C to promote germination and propagation. Division propagation of Nymphoides indica mainly uses the false vivipary at the petiole end for propagation.