How to grow Chinese bush cherry? Master these care and management key points
Chinese bush cherry (Prunus japonica) is a plant in the rose family (Rosaceae), genus Prunus, often growing on mountain slopes at altitudes below 800 m, at forest edges, beside streams, or in roadside thickets. Chinese bush cherry can be used not only for ornamental purposes but also has fairly high medicinal value, so it is widely cultivated. Let me introduce the planting methods and precautions for Chinese bush cherry; interested friends can learn about them together.
Chinese bush cherry
Chinese bush cherry likes a sunny, warm and humid environment. The tree is robust with strong adaptability, tolerant of heat, drought, moisture and smoke and dust, has a well-developed root system, and is also fairly cold-resistant, able to overwinter safely at -15°C in winter. It is not demanding about soil, tolerates poor soil, can grow in slightly alkaline soil, and grows most vigorously especially in calcareous soil. It grows better in well-drained, neutral, fertile and loose sandy loam, and can also adapt to slightly acidic soil.
I. Planting conditions
Transplanting of Chinese bush cherry is carried out from after leaf fall to before bud break, and the plant should be kept with its original soil. In North China, it is best to transplant in February or March before the buds sprout, and the planting site should preferably be a sunny, warm micro-environment. For cultivation soil, humus-rich loam with plenty of organic matter is best, and sunlight must be sufficient. When planting, first place the lifted seedling beside the planting hole, then put the seedling into the hole, filling soil while firming it down. The filled soil should be slightly higher than the hole surface. The planting depth is generally deeper than the height at which the seedling was lifted from the nursery, and after the soil settles it can be level with the original soil mark. After filling with soil, make an earth berm around the trunk to make it easier to water in the settling water.
II. Water and fertilizer management
For newly planted trees, apply sufficient base fertilizer in the tree hole before planting. After planting, water thoroughly with the first settling water, then water a second time 7 to 10 days later, for 3 waterings in total, and seal the berm promptly after watering. Water appropriately during drought. Apply fertilizer once each before leaf expansion in early spring and before flowering in April, with 1 kg of organic fertilizer per plant. In autumn, apply 0.5 kg of diammonium phosphate per plant.
III. Pruning techniques
During growth, the root system has very strong suckering ability and needs to be controlled; root suckers should be removed regularly to maintain a good and upright plant shape. For young trees, the trunk can be headed at a seedling height of 30 cm, selecting one main branch starting 20 cm above the ground and then one every 10 cm upward, for a total of three or four main branches, each extending in its own direction. For mature trees, thinning branches is the main approach; after flowering, promptly cut off remaining flower branches, and prune diseased and pest-infested branches, overly dense branches, weak slender branches, and dead branches inside the clump. When the tree becomes too old, renewal pruning by cutting back can be used; branches that have been cut back can sprout vigorous shoots, which can then be trained into a new crown.
Key points for overwintering care and management of flowers
Key points for overwintering care and management of flowers
1. Cold protection
In a simple plastic greenhouse where the temperature does not drop below 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering cold damage, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), Asparagus cochinchinensis, Aspidistra elatior, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Rhapis excelsa, Nandina domestica, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus fortunei, Cycas revoluta, etc. For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature of no lower than 5°C, such as Araucaria heterophylla, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus elastica, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Chamaedorea elegans, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Cyclamen persicum, Primula malacoides, Lantana camara, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, Areca lutescens, Pelargonium hortorum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bambusa ventricosa, etc., they can overwinter in a double-layer plastic greenhouse. For species requiring an overwintering temperature of no lower than 10°C, such as Codiaeum variegatum, Caladium bicolor, Peperomia, Maranta, Dracaena sanderiana, Caryota mitis, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Fittonia, bromeliads, Dieffenbachia, Euphorbia pulcherrima, Cymbidium hybridum, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Pachystachys lutea, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, Zamia, red (green) gem, Oncidium, Cymbidium hookerianum, etc., in a double-layer greenhouse with good sealing performance, additional heating must also be provided appropriately; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the greenhouse with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer. For those relatively cold-resistant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), plum blossom, crabapple types, Rhododendron simsii, pomegranate, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Xylosma racemosum, Lagerstroemia indica, Wisteria sinensis, boxwood types, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Acer buergerianum, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Sabina chinensis, Sabina virginiana, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., when the temperature is not below -10°C, they generally will not freeze; in particularly cold weather, add another covering of plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.
2. Watering
For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in conservatories, greenhouses, and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as the standard. If the temperature is on the low side and too much water is given, it is very easy to cause root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying. For those potted flower plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, Senecio cruentus, Primula malacoides, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, hyacinth, Narcissus poeticus, etc., and fruit ornamentals such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus microcarpa, Fortunella hindsii, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, Nandina domestica, etc., not only must the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given to help the flower buds expand and also to increase the brightness of the flowers and fruits. For most foliage plants placed indoors, both the potting soil must be kept moist and foliar spraying must be given, always keeping the leaf surfaces clean; for less cold-resistant foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, Codiaeum variegatum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc., when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering so as to ensure they can overwinter safely. In December, the watering time is best during the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water temperature being too low.
3. Fertilizing
For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary greenhouses, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.
4. Pruning
Prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary that were not pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum sinense, Euonymus japonicus, Sabina chinensis, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Photinia davidsoniae, etc.; ball shapes include Ilex cornuta, Myrica rubra, Photinia, boxwood types, Pittosporum tobira, Forsythia, Pyracantha fortuneana, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Juniperus formosana, etc. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied. For ground-planted flowering trees not yet pruned in November, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, palm, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Photinia, Platanus orientalis, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc., carry out shaping and pruning, and after pruning is finished, bury and apply fertilizer around the root zone. For bonsai plant species mainly pruned by cutting, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Sabina chinensis, crabapple, Chaenomeles, etc., continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.
5. Pest and disease control
For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple types, rose, Rosa chinensis, Camellia japonica, Lagerstroemia indica, etc., collect the fallen dead branches and leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection. For powdery mildew on potted Senecio cruentus and gray mold on Primula malacoides, the former should be controlled promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl. For species of flowers and trees in greenhouses and sheds that are prone to scale insects, such as Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Cycas revoluta, Camellia japonica, Aspidistra elatior, etc., first wipe them once with a cloth, then control with pesticides such as methidathion. For flower and tree species on which aphids commonly appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Rosa chinensis, Carmona retusa, etc., tobacco water can be used for control. On the trunks and large branches of open-ground-grown flowering trees such as Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus fragrans, Platanus orientalis, Camellia japonica, Ligustrum quihoui, Pyracantha fortuneana, Nerium oleander, crabapple, Magnolia denudata, Cercis chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Cedrus deodara, Photinia, Lagerstroemia indica, wintersweet, etc., various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, Ceroplastes rubens, armored scales, Unaspis yanonensis, mealybugs, Eriococcus, etc. At this time, spray and kill with higher-concentration pesticides such as methidathion, quinalphos, and buprofezin, and pesticide damage rarely occurs.
6. Composting fertilizer
To meet the needs of next year's seedling raising and preparation of potting soil, make use of the idle winter time to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or water tanks, add water, and seal them for soaking, retting, and fermentation. Stack dry dead grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in alternating layers with garden soil and set them on fire to burn, forming burnt soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings next year. Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon droppings, etc. with garden soil, pile and compost them, and seal for fermentation; this can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil in the coming year.
7. Preparing potting soil
Using the idle winter time, find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade and compost as much potting soil as possible, to prepare for repotting and potting up herbaceous flowers in spring next year. Generally use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, then mix them thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile them indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting up herbaceous flowers.
8. Plowing and freezing clods
For garden land to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting seedlings, plowing can be done in December; for land for sowing and planting seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before plowing. Do not make beds for the time being; after overwintering and freezing clods, make ditches and beds in early spring next year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases. Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai styling in December include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Filifera', Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus procumbens, Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku', Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Pinus densiflora, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Euonymus pendulus, Ginkgo biloba, Serissa japonica, Caragana, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Corylopsis, Tamarix chinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles cathayensis, Buxus sinica, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus hupehensis, Xylosma racemosum, etc. For bonsai plants fixed and shaped with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already lasted one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk or branches, the original binding material should be removed and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for hanging, pulling, and guiding. For ground-planted plum stakes, Podocarpus macrophyllus, crabapple, Ginkgo biloba, Sabina chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, etc. that have already been styled, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used for display in public places or rooms next year.
Key points for flower management in June
Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season; this year the plum rain season begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, cold and warm air masses of comparable strength meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers that are dormant or semi-dormant in summer and for the vast majority of bonsai, care should be taken especially to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which disrupts the shape or affects normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants.In June, flower care mainly includes the following from south to north:
I. Flower cultivation
1. Sowing
Flower and tree species that can be sown in June include: Primula malacoides, lotus seed, Cycas revoluta, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the seed-bearing mother tree turns from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked; promptly peel open the fruit capsule and take out the seeds, first soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds have absorbed enough water and swollen, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination; after about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack open and show white, and at this point sow them in furrows; the covering soil thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after most of the seeds' cotyledons emerge from the soil, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 rounds, and promptly build a shade frame for shading.
2. Cuttings
In summer, with high temperatures and high humidity, the cambium in flower and tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for propagating flowers and trees by cuttings. There are two main categories of flowers and trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of species that are difficult to root or slow to root from hardwood cuttings, such as Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, lilac, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum odoratissimum, Erythrina,
Belgian azalea, Bambusa ventricosa (with aerial roots), Ficus elastica, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Taxodium ascendens, Taxodium distichum, etc.; the other category consists of species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood types, Rosa chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Forsythia, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Caragana, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Liriope, Lantana camara, Kerria japonica, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, lemon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nandina domestica, Campsis grandiflora, Excoecaria cochinchinensis,
honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Cordyline fruticosa, Hypericum, Hypericum kouytchense, Salix babylonica var. pendula, Salix matsudana 'Tortuosa', Ficus microcarpa, Dracaena fragrans, Ardisia crenata, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Codiaeum variegatum, Deutzia, Philadelphus, Lagerstroemia indica, Weigela florida, Weigela coraeensis, Hydrangea strigosa, Aucuba types, Schefflera types, Mahonia types, Fatsia japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, Euphorbia pulcherrima, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as Ipomoea cairica, Alternanthera,
Alternanthera types, Tropaeolum majus, Salvia, Cuphea, Heliotropium arborescens, Cyperus alternifolius, Pelargonium hortorum, Coleus blumei, Begonia types, Viola tricolor, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Cosmos sulphureus, etc.
Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of Camellia japonica and Osmanthus fragrans as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young shoots of Osmanthus fragrans and Camellia japonica are semi-lignified; the medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite; the cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip; the lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution, and after a brief airing, inserted into the seedbed; the insertion depth of the cuttings is 1/2 to 2/3 of the shoot length, with a spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm; after watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the seedbed, then cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%; generally after one month the cuttings will root abundantly.
3. Grafting
Approach grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock and approach-graft superior varieties of wintersweet; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock to approach-graft Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Rosa chinensis varieties by grafting; use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock to propagate by bud grafting such cultivars as longevity peach, ornamental peach, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', red-leaf peach, Chinese bush cherry, plum blossom, Prunus triloba, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock to propagate by grafting red maple, Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', Acer palmatum 'Sanguineum', etc. Stem grafting: use Camellia oleifera, Camellia chekiangoleosa, or single-petaled seedling Camellia japonica as rootstock to stem-graft Camellia japonica and Camellia sasanqua; use Rhododendron 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among azalea as rootstock to cleft-graft or side-graft Belgian azalea or Western azalea.
4. Layering
Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: Rhododendron, honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), Hydrangea macrophylla, Viburnum plicatum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Weigela florida, Nerium oleander, Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, Gardenia jasminoides, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, Michelia alba, etc.
5. Division
Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Zantedeschia aethiopica (after flowering), Bambusa ventricosa, Cyperus alternifolius, Tradescantia spathacea, bromeliads, Haworthia, Aspidistra elatior, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Acorus types, Liriope muscari 'Variegata', etc.
II. Seed collection and transplanting and field planting
1. Seed collection
Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: Dianthus chinensis, Centaurea cyanus, Antirrhinum majus, Silene armeria, Silene vulgaris, Alcea rosea, Malva, Primula malacoides, Calceolaria, Hippeastrum (sow immediately after collection), etc.
Flower and tree seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not allow, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until spring next year for sowing, without affecting their germination rate; peach, apricot, etc. should be sown immediately after collection, or their seeds can be stratified in sand until they crack and germinate before direct sowing in the ground; Osmanthus fragrans seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed and then be washed clean, stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the seed embryo, and when they germinate, select nursery land for sowing.
2. Transplanting, field planting, and potting up
In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting, field planting, or potting up. They are: Oenothera biennis, Cleome spinosa, Impatiens balsamina, Impatiens hawkeri, Primula malacoides, ornamental pepper, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Nicotiana tabacum 'Red Coat', Petunia hybrida, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Antirrhinum, Kochia scoparia, Cosmos sulphureus, Celosia cristata, Alternanthera, etc.
As summer begins, some large flowers and trees are no longer transplanted, so as not to affect their survival rate and post-transplant growth. But for some small flowering shrubs, such as Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia fortunei, Hypericum, Gardenia jasminoides, Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', boxwood types, under special circumstances, transplanting with a root ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just do not let the tree know."
But after transplanting, spraying water and shade management must be strengthened.
III. Flower management
1. Watering
When watering potted flowers in June, attention should be paid to the following aspects: first, watering time, best at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m., and under normal circumstances watering once a day is enough; second, water temperature, keeping the irrigation water basically consistent with the potting soil temperature, because if the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too large, it will cause irritation to the root system and leaves of potted flowers and thereby affect their growth; third, combining watering and spraying, and when there have been several days without rain, in addition to watering the pots, also spray the leaf surfaces and around the potted flowers to increase local humidity; if there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray according to the dryness or moisture of the potting soil.
Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: Oxalis corymbosa, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, Clivia miniata, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Begonia types, etc. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced and the potting soil kept moist; deeply dormant species such as: Cyclamen persicum, Lycoris (types), Ranunculus asiaticus, Cymbidium
orchid and tree peony, etc., under high temperatures show aboveground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, overwintering through summer as underground stems or tuberous roots dormant in the soil. For them, watering must be stopped and they should be moved to a cool place, keeping the potting soil from becoming excessively dry.
If there is continuous rain, after the rain stops, comprehensively check the potted flowers. If standing water is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the potting soil dries out, loosen the soil, so as to avoid root rot; or before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set the potted flowers upright again.
2. Fertilizing
For vigorously growing species, such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta types, sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Cycas revoluta, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Dracaena 'Green Emperor', Dracaena 'Green Queen', Ficus elastica, Anthurium andraeanum, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Araucaria heterophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pachira aquatica, wintersweet, Rosa chinensis, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Daphne odora, Rhodo-
dendron, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Lantana camara, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, Fortunella margarita, pomegranate, Lagerstroemia indica, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc., topdress once every half month with thoroughly composted dilute cake fertilizer water; for species currently in flower, also topdress with an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their needs for growth, flowering, and fruiting.
For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent flower species, such as jade plant (Crassula ovata), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), Haworthia cooperi, Senecio × hybridus, Sedum morganianum, Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia, Sedum types, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization must be stopped to avoid rot.
3. Pruning and bud pinching
(1) Prune vigorously growing species such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Carmona retusa, Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku', Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Adina rubella, Sabina chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Acer buergerianum, Fontanesia fortunei, Tamarix chinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. Branches affecting the shape should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and in good external form, and can also promote it to produce more short branches and more new buds, forming a perfect shape early.
(2) Pinch buds on Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Rosa chinensis, etc.: promptly remove spent flowers and withered stems, and appropriately cut back the branches that have flowered, to promote the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again; for flowering trees such as Michelia alba, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Rhododendron, Camellia japonica, wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, etc., in order to help them form a good plant shape and produce more flower buds, more flowers, and good flowers in the current or next year, pinch the growing tips of overly vigorous branches to inhibit the growth of the main and lateral shoots and promote the sprouting of lateral buds.
4. Shading
In June, for those flowers and trees that like shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage to the plants from scorching sun. Such as Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Asparagus setaceus, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, Strelitzia reginae, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, Ficus elastica, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium podophyllum, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Epipremnum aureum, Peperomia, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Dracaena 'Green Emperor', Dracaena
'Green Queen', Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), Daphne odora, Aspidistra elatior, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), etc. For light-loving flower species, sufficient light must be given, such as pomegranate, Wisteria sinensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, jasmine, Serissa japonica, Cycas revoluta, Sabina chinensis, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Adina rubella, Xylosma racemosum, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Rosa chinensis, Mahonia, grape, etc.; Podocarpus macrophyllus, Damnacanthus indicus, Nandina domestica, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex, Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus nagi, etc. can be given appropriate shading.
5. Pest and disease control
(1) Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Ulmus parvifolia, Chaenomeles, Pyracantha fortuneana, Podocarpus macrophyllus, crabapple types, etc. are prone to attack by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and should promptly be controlled by blocking with poison sticks.
(2) Rosa chinensis, Rosa multiflora, rose, etc. are prone to powdery mildew and leaf spot during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.
(3) Michelia alba, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are prone to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.
(4) Orchid leaves are prone to anthracnose infection, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.
(5) Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', lemon, Fortunella margarita, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, etc. have tender leaves easily eaten by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, and pesticides such as contact killers and stomach poisons can be sprayed to kill them.
IV. Bonsai styling
Plant species that can be styled in June are mainly some adaptable, wire-tolerant woody ornamental plants, and must be plants that were potted and acclimated in early spring or planted in the ground. They are: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Jasminum nudiflorum, Elaeagnus pungens, Pinus armandii, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Sabina chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Lycium chinense, Pinus parviflora, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, plum blossom, ornamental peach, Acer buergerianum, Serissa japonica, Pinus thunbergii,
Buxus sinica, Ulmus parvifolia, Tamarix chinensis, Adina rubella, Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku', Ginkgo biloba, Fontanesia fortunei, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. Styling in June must be careful, with slow and gentle bending; never be too impatient or use excessive force.
Solar terms in June: June 5 is Grain in Ear; June 21 is Summer Solstice.