Detailed Explanation of the Single-Bud Cutting Method and Steps for Roses

Roses are flowering plants very popular among flower enthusiasts, but single-bud cutting of roses is relatively difficult because the cuttings are short in tissue and store little nutrients and water internally. Operations should be careful and meticulous, and only a sharp knife can be used for cutting, not pruning shears, so the difficulty of single-bud cutting of roses is relatively high.

Rose

I. Cutting and Trimming the Cuttings

According to 1 pinnately compound leaf and 1 dormant bud, at 13-3 cm downward from the leaf base scar, cut the semi-lignified branch into a section; the part of the stem above the leaf can be long or short according to actual conditions. When cutting, hold the branch with one hand and the knife with the other, and at the selected position, cut down with one stroke horizontally or slightly diagonally in the air. Never place one side on a wooden board or other object and press down with the knife to cut. After completion, use pruning shears or leaf scissors to cut off 1/3 to 1/2 of the small leaflets, soak in 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 1000 times solution for about 1 minute, and insert for cutting immediately after removal.

II. Cutting Substrate: The Effects and Contraindications of Chrysanthemum Tea

Choose sandy loam, fine sandy soil or construction sand, or add 3095^50% vermiculite, mix evenly, then fill into the seedbed, or flower pots, or shallow wooden boxes, or shallow seedling trays, compact and level, and water thoroughly. Use a wooden stick, bamboo stick or metal rod with a diameter larger than the cutting diameter to make vertical holes downward in the soil surface, at a depth of about W cm, place the base of the cutting into the hole, with the dormant bud and leaf axis base basically level with the soil surface or slightly deeper, but not too deep, and compact the soil around the base. The plant and row spacing should be such that the leaves do not overlap or affect each other.

After cutting is completed, spray with a fine-nozzle sprayer. When cutting in containers, the immersion method can also be used to make the soil thoroughly wet. Shade 40%-50%. In the initial period, spray water 4-5 times a day, and stop spraying at night. When the daytime natural temperature is 24-28°C, rooting can occur in 20-30 days. After rooting, gradually remove the shading material, open windows to increase ventilation, and when most cuttings' dormant buds sprout and grow new branches, dig up the seedlings or remove them from pots for planting. For other matters, refer to greenhouse cutting propagation.

Cutting of Roses, Rose Cutting Steps and Methods with Extremely High Survival Rate

Rose propagation includes asexual reproduction and sexual reproduction. Sexual reproduction is mostly used for breeding new varieties or producing rootstock. Asexual reproduction includes cutting, division, layering and tissue culture. Rose cutting propagation can not only maintain the excellent characteristics of the mother plant, but is also simple and easy to learn, fast in propagation speed, and high in survival rate.

Cutting time for roses: It can be carried out in both spring and autumn. In spring, from late April to the end of May, when the climate is mild and the branches are vigorous, rooting can occur one month after cutting, with a high survival rate. Autumn cutting is carried out from late August to the end of October. At this time, cutting is affected by the large temperature difference between day and night, rooting is relatively slow, taking about 40 to 50 days to root, and the survival rate is slightly lower than spring cutting.

In a sunny area, choose a plot with deep soil, loose structure, good permeability, rich in humus, and good drainage as the cutting bed. For each mu of cutting bed, mix in 200 kg of decomposed farmyard manure (pig manure, cow dung) and 25 kg of superphosphate as base fertilizer, then mix in 20 to 30 kg of burnt soil ash or rice husk ash to improve aeration. To reduce disease in cuttings, disinfect the soil before cutting: spray the soil with 50% thiophanate wettable powder 500 to 800 times solution, then cover with plastic film for 3 to 4 days, and cut 1 week after removing the film.

From young and middle-aged mother trees of excellent varieties, select robust, plump, strongly growing, pest- and disease-free 1- to 2-year-old spring shoots or current-year autumn shoots as cuttings. Such branches have high growth substance content and strong metabolic vitality, are not only easy to survive, but also produce good-quality seedlings with high selling prices. When transporting branches from other places as cuttings, pay attention to moisture retention and shading to maintain branch vitality. The cuttings are about 8 to 12 cm long. Cut off the lower leaves, leaving only 3 to 5 leaves at the top. Bundle the prepared cuttings in groups of 50, soak the lower 5 cm in 100 ppm GGR No. 6 solution for 1 to 2 hours, which can improve the cutting survival rate.

Cut off at 3-5 mm above the axillary bud along a 45-degree direction. Each cutting has one bud and one leaf stalk. Keep only two small leaves on the leaf stalk, and cut off the other leaves.

The relatively ideal substrates are coarse yellow sand and coal cinders. Yellow sand must be soaked and washed with clean water to remove dust, and it is best to disinfect it with fungicide; coal cinders are generally screened through 5-20 mesh, the particles should not be too large, and dust must also be removed.

Spread a layer of cutting substrate on the seedbed, 7-10 cm thick. After leveling, spray clean water to make the inside of the substrate firm, then cutting can be carried out, with a depth of about one-third of the cutting length. After cutting, water once with clean water, then build a small frame and cover it with plastic film to maintain sufficient humidity.

Cover with plastic film within one week after transplanting. Then gradually provide ventilation and light so that they adapt to the external environment. If operated properly, the survival rate of single-bud cutting is above 90%. Single-bud cutting can also be used on other flower varieties.

1. Build arched frames and cover with shade netting: The plastic shed can regulate soil and air temperature and humidity, and the shade netting can prevent direct sunlight and lower temperature. The light transmittance of the shade netting should preferably be 20% to 30%. In addition to covering the top of the seedbed with shade netting, curtains should also be hung on the east and west sides of the seedbed to block light, so as to reduce sunlight in the morning and evening. The optimal temperature for rose rooting is 20°C to 25°C. If the temperature is too high, in addition to covering with shade netting, watering and ventilation can also be used to lower the temperature.

2. Watering: In the early stage of cutting, the cuttings have not yet sprouted leaves, so water supply should not be too much. Generally, watering once every 7 to 10 days is sufficient. After one month, the cuttings begin to root and sprout, and water consumption gradually increases, so watering should be done once every 3 to 5 days. The amount of watering should be determined according to soil moisture and air humidity, so that the soil is moderately dry and wet. The best moisture conditions after cutting are: the field water-holding capacity of the seedbed is maintained at about 80%, and the relative air humidity is 80% to 90%. If humidity is too high, control the amount of watering and strengthen ventilation; if humidity is too low, increase the amount of watering and the frequency of spraying.

3. Fertilization: Cuttings do not require much fertilizer. Since base fertilizer was applied during land preparation, there is no need to apply soil fertilizer again before transplanting the seedlings, but foliar fertilization should be carried out. That is, one month after cutting, apply 0.3% urea liquid fertilizer and 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate liquid fertilizer alternately once every half month for foliar fertilization to promote rooting.

4. Weeding: Remove weeds in the cutting bed in time, but do not disturb the seedlings.

5. Hardening seedlings: Half a year after the seedlings root, appropriately extend their ventilation and light time to improve the ability of the seedlings to adapt to the external environment.

Single-Bud Cutting Method for Roses