How to use water for hydroponic Clivia? These key points you need to master
Flower lovers all have the impression that Clivia is cultivated in soil, but in fact Clivia can also be grown hydroponically as long as it is handled properly. Since the hydroponic method is relatively clean, it is also a cultivation method that many flower lovers prefer. The editor will tell you what kind of water should be used for hydroponic Clivia.
Flower lovers all have the impression that Clivia is cultivated in soil, but in fact Clivia can also be grown hydroponically as long as it is handled properly. Since the hydroponic method is relatively clean, it is also a cultivation method that many flower lovers prefer. The editor will tell you what kind of water should be used for hydroponic Clivia.
Hydroponic Clivia
For hydroponic Clivia, you cannot use tap water directly; you must use water that has been "aged." So-called "aged" water means putting tap water in a container and exposing it to sunlight for 3-5 days, so that chlorides such as bleaching powder, which are harmful to Clivia roots, settle out. In "aged" water, from its appearance, the sediment changes from strips into clumps, and the water color is best when green. After the water is "aged" well, when submerging the root position, you absolutely must not submerge the pseudobulb. If the water level is too shallow, Clivia cannot receive a sufficient water supply; if the water level is too deep (submerging the pseudobulb), it will cause root rot. During cultivation, pay attention to observing changes in water quality. If you find that the roots have turned somewhat yellow or black, it indicates that the water is both lacking oxygen and low in nutrients, and you must change the water immediately. Air, sunlight, temperature Whether the ventilation around the roots of hydroponic orchids can be handled well is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. After hydroponic orchids have been cultivated for a period of time, a layer of green algae grows on the roots. When the green algae is too thick, it will seriously affect root respiration and corrode the nutrient solution. At this time, you need to use a soft, clean brush to gently brush away the layer of green algae on the roots (it does not need to be brushed very clean, because a small amount of green algae on the roots has little effect).
In addition, you should often check whether the oxygen in the water is sufficient. The method of checking is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim around freely in the water, it indicates that the water is not lacking oxygen. If the small fish always float to the surface, with their mouths and gills exposed to breathe, it indicates that the water is lacking oxygen. After discovering that the water is lacking oxygen, you must replenish oxygen. There are two methods: one is to change the water, and the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water. In terms of sunlight handling, Clivia is a semi-shade, semi-sun plant, so attention must be paid to light. Especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive scattered light. In addition, according to the light-facing characteristics of Clivia leaves, attention should be paid to making the leaves receive light evenly; otherwise, the leaves will be of uneven length, and the growth direction will also be staggered front and back. Generally, the light angle should be adjusted once every two or three days. In terms of temperature handling, the environmental temperature for adult Clivia is best at 11°C-25°C, while seedlings can be slightly higher, 20°C-35°C is fine. When growing orchids in water, you must master the day-night temperature difference. In winter, keep it around 20°C during the day, and not lower than 15°C at night.
Key maintenance points for hydroponic Clivia
Clivia is native to southern Africa, growing under trees, so it is both afraid of heat and not cold-tolerant. It likes semi-shady and humid environments, and fears strong direct sunlight. The optimal temperature for growth is between 18-22°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth is inhibited. Clivia likes a ventilated environment, and hydroponic Clivia is suitable for indoor cultivation.Clivia can also be grown hydroponically, and the method is as follows:
Container selection
To grow Clivia hydroponically, you must first choose a good container. Generally, a transparent glass container is preferred. If growing one seedling, only a glass jar is needed. If planting a large number hydroponically, you can use thin iron wire to make a metal mesh with holes one cm in diameter, and make a glass hydroponic box slightly smaller than the metal mesh; or use a goldfish tank instead. Then cover the hydroponic box with the metal mesh, insert the Clivia seedlings through the mesh holes into the nutrient solution respectively, and the depth of the flower roots in the nutrient solution should not exceed the pseudobulb at the root.
Nutrient solution preparation
Nutrient solutions are divided into inorganic and organic types. The inorganic nutrient solution can be prepared in the following proportions: calcium 1.5 grams, ferrous sulfate 0.01 grams, urea grams, monopotassium phosphate 1 gram, magnesium sulfate 0.5 grams. After the above 5 inorganic salts are all prepared, dissolve them in 1000 grams of water and it is ready to use. The organic nutrient solution is prepared as follows: 100 grams of roasted hemp seed powder, 100 grams of bone meal (made from unsalted fresh bones), 150 grams of soybean cake powder, 50 grams of roasted sesame powder, then dissolve in 1000 grams of water. Comparing the above two nutrient solutions, the organic fertilizer has rich ingredients, but its nutrient content is not high; the inorganic fertilizer has relatively single ingredients, but has strong fertilizer effect and quick results. To make up for each other's shortcomings, the two can be used in combination. If used alone, apply inorganic fertilizer once a week, and organic fertilizer once every 5 days.
Water use
For hydroponic Clivia, you cannot use tap water directly; you must use water that has been "aged." So-called "aged" water means putting tap water in a container and exposing it to sunlight for 3-5 days, so that chlorides such as bleaching powder, which are harmful to Clivia roots, settle out. In "aged" water, from its appearance, the sediment changes from strips into clumps, and the water color is best when green. After the water is "aged" well, when submerging the root position, you absolutely must not submerge the pseudobulb. If the water level is too shallow, Clivia cannot receive a sufficient water supply; if the water level is too deep (submerging the pseudobulb), it will cause root rot. During cultivation, pay attention to observing changes in water quality. If you find that the roots have turned somewhat yellow or black, it indicates that the water is both lacking oxygen and low in nutrients, and you must change the water immediately.
Air, sunlight, temperature
Whether the ventilation around the roots of hydroponic orchids can be handled well is the key to success or failure in hydroponics. After hydroponic orchids have been cultivated for a period of time, a layer of green algae grows on the roots. When the green algae is too thick, it will seriously affect root respiration and corrode the nutrient solution. At this time, you need to use a soft, clean brush to gently brush away the layer of green algae on the roots (it does not need to be brushed very clean, because a small amount of green algae on the roots has little effect). In addition, you should often check whether the oxygen in the water is sufficient. The method of checking is: put two or three small fish into the hydroponic box. If the small fish swim around freely in the water, it indicates that the water is not lacking oxygen. If the small fish always float to the surface, with their mouths and gills exposed to breathe, it indicates that the water is lacking oxygen.
After discovering that the water is lacking oxygen, you must replenish oxygen. There are two methods: one is to change the water, and the other is to use a small oxygen pump to supply oxygen to the water. In terms of sunlight handling, Clivia is a semi-shade, semi-sun plant, so attention must be paid to light. Especially in summer, avoid direct strong sunlight and let it receive scattered light. In addition, according to the light-facing characteristics of Clivia leaves, attention should be paid to making the leaves receive light evenly; otherwise, the leaves will be of uneven length, and the growth direction will also be staggered front and back. Generally, the light angle should be adjusted once every two or three days. In terms of temperature handling, the environmental temperature for adult Clivia is best at 11°C-25°C, while seedlings can be slightly higher, 20°C-35°C is fine. When growing orchids in water, you must master the day-night temperature difference. In winter, keep it around 20°C during the day, and not lower than 15°C at night.
A guide to home hydroponic flowers (experience-sharing edition) Answers to key maintenance points for hydroponic flowers and plants
More and more flower lovers are beginning to try hydroponic flowers. In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants are sensitive to oxygen deficiency and need regular aeration of the nutrient solution to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so appropriate nutrient solution formulas need to be adopted. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo appropriate acclimation before they can be grown hydroponically. This article focuses on introducing knowledge and answers about home hydroponic flowers, hoping to be helpful to everyone.Advantages of hydroponic flowers:
As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-cultured flowers: 1. Water replaces soil, odorless and tasteless, clean and hygienic. 2. No need to repot or loosen soil, which can reduce the labor of growing flowers. 3. Light in weight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4. Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor decoration. 5. Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can be stabilized above 80%.
1. How many hydroponic flowers are suitable for display in a home
Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air, so displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are placed, it will cause flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers is suitable to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered that based on room area, planting one or two kinds of flowers per 10 sq m is more suitable. Based on this standard, for a room of 50 sq m to 60 sq m, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can satisfy viewing needs without causing flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night.
2. Four methods to obtain hydroponic plants
1. Take flowers cultivated in organic substrates such as soil, or in inorganic substrates, out of their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and switch to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.
2. Use flower branches as cuttings and insert them directly into still water; after they take root, cultivate them with nutrient solution.
3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plants and hanging bromeliads. These small plantlets can be picked off and directly grown hydroponically.
4. For flowers that grow many tiller buds, such as Clivia and bromeliads, hydroponics can be carried out by peeling off tiller buds with roots.
3. How to prepare hydroponic nutrient solution
Home static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must have three basic conditions:
1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.
2. Choose cultivation containers that match the size and style of the hydroponic flowers, are leak-proof, and have no bottom holes.
3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete elemental mineral nutrition necessary for flower and plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:
(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 grams, potassium nitrate 0.13 grams, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 grams, magnesium sulfate 0.13 grams.
(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 milligrams, ferrous sulfate 5.0 milligrams, manganese sulfate 1.4 milligrams, boric acid 2.0 milligrams, zinc sulfate 0.07 milligrams, copper sulfate 0.04 milligrams, sodium molybdate 0.09 milligrams. (3) Pure water: 1 liter (1000 milliliters).
The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, electrical conductivity EC<0.5毫西门子/厘米。
Cultivate the selected flowers in a container and pour in hydroponic nutrient solution to grow them, and they become a static hydroponic flower with a unique charm.
To prepare nutrient solution, it is best to use pure water. Of course, generally drinking tap water can also be used to prepare nutrient solution. They have all undergone strict treatment, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that pure water has fewer impurities and pathogens, and basically does not contain nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water, as the components in the water source change, contains nutrient elements in unstable forms. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with pure water has stable and consistent components, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable components.
Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water and store it in a relatively large-diameter bucket for several days, stirring it several times with a wooden stick to remove chlorine. If water for changing is urgently needed, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as hypo) to 10 kilograms of tap water and stir evenly, which can also achieve a chlorine removal effect.
Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance to alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can help flowers absorb trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, grow normally, and keep leaves green.
4. How to carry out foliar fertilization
Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under root oxygen deficiency conditions, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. To improve the quality of flowers, the method of leaf surface fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface. A fine-hole spray pot should be used, and try not to let the fertilizer solution run off. The back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, which can make hydroponic flowers flourish with luxuriant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as white spathe, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, calla lily, etc., during the bud stage, use a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution to spray the leaf surface once a week until the flowers open.
5. Temperature requirements for hydroponic flowers
Hydroponic flowers only change one way of cultivating flowers; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers and plants used in static hydroponics are mostly native to Latin American rainforests, or tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and belong to non-cold-tolerant flowers and plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with leaf edges scorched and withered, old leaves turning yellow, drooping and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon can also occur. Some flowers are more cold-tolerant, such as English ivy, periwinkle, and candle plant, which grow normally at 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and brown scorch-like spots appear on leaf edges, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperature, such as bamboo begonia, four-season begonia, and coleus. Above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics. Of course, this is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Keeping the temperature between 15°C and 28°C is suitable for various flowers in static hydroponics. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each kind of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.
6. Light requirements for hydroponic flowers
Static hydroponics mostly uses foliage flowers that are relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving, and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a relatively weak light environment and become dull and lusterless. Such flowers can maintain leaf color luster only in an environment with relatively sufficient light and without direct strong light.
Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of displayed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the container and replacing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will prevent the flower from growing to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.
7. Humid environment and good ventilation
Most foliage flowers are native to warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray mist on the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from dampening furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as monstera and Clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a wet towel, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin filled with clear water beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.
There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If static hydroponic flowers are placed indoors and doors and windows are tightly closed with turbid air, it is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if doors and windows are not opened and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and their growth will become worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves, and thin, shriveled new shoots. Places where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.
Rooms with air conditioning can certainly achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves and dry leaf tips. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. They should be ventilated in a timely manner, which is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers displayed especially need this work done well.
8. Pest and disease control for hydroponic flowers
Hydroponics breaks away from infection by soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly disinfected vacuum environment, and it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, had their roots washed, and switched to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, insect eggs, larvae, and so on. If they are not carefully checked and removed, hidden dangers will remain.
Because of the particularity of their display environment, once static hydroponic flowers suffer pests or diseases, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor can large doses of fungicides be used to sterilize. Although these drugs can play a role in killing insects and sterilizing, they also cause pollution to the environment at the same time.
Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as much as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture can be used, or they can be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not many. Only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled and necrotic, or irregular round wet-soaked lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. After discovery, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned, and not allowed to spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.
Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Stuffily hot high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, scorching by the hot sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or inability to absorb in a balanced way may all cause scorched and withered leaf tips and yellowing and falling lower leaves in static hydroponic flowers. When the temperature is too high in midsummer, because dissolved oxygen in the liquid drops sharply, root rot is easily triggered, and this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. Aiming at the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.
How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be maintained? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and rotten roots, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still intact upper branch 3 cm below the stem node, insert it in clear water, and after a period of maintenance and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. For branches with a detached lower end, as long as they do not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node. At this time, they can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, seven-color cordyline, and arrowhead plant can all use this method.
Summary: The above is the knowledge about hydroponic flowers summarized for everyone, hoping it is helpful to the majority of flower lovers.