A Detailed Guide to Digging Up and Training Six-Bark Abelia (Abelia biflora) Bonsai
There are many varieties of Abelia, which belongs to the Caprifoliaceae family. Since this plant is distributed across central and southern China, it is very well suited for bonsai. Here we introduce the methods for digging up and training Abelia bonsai.
Abelia Bonsai
I. Digging Up
Generally speaking, the branches and trunks of Abelia are very straight, so they are not suitable for bonsai if left as they are. Therefore, when digging them up we should choose Abelia that has suffered repeated damage and has a twisted shape. This kind of qualifying Abelia generally grows in harsh conditions, such as in rock crevices or beside ditches. When digging, take care to protect the roots intact; after digging it out, keep the roots moist and place it in a shady spot as much as possible. During transport, also be careful not to damage the branches and leaves, so as not to affect the bonsai's appearance.
II. Training the Raw Material
After the plant is brought back, trim it to the right size. Once trimmed, seal the cuts on the branches, trunk and roots with yellow clay or plastic wrap to prevent moisture loss. Then prepare a pot; you can choose a clay pot or a cement pot. Ordinary garden soil will do, but make sure the soil is loose and breathable. Then plant the specimen in, water it thoroughly, cover the whole bonsai with a plastic bag, and place it in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot for cultivation.
An Introduction to Abelia Bonsai Care Methods
Introduction: Abelia is a plant with strong adaptability that is easy to care for, making it very suitable for bonsai. Today, we would like to share with you some tips on caring for Abelia bonsai. Once you have learned them, go and grow one yourself!
Abelia is a shrub belonging to the Caprifoliaceae family. It is distributed across central and southern China, and there are many varieties, all of which are suitable for bonsai. Below, let us learn about the care methods for this kind of bonsai.
Digging Up
Generally speaking, the branches and trunks of Abelia are very straight, so they are not suitable for bonsai if left as they are. Therefore, when digging them up we should choose Abelia that has suffered repeated damage and has a twisted shape. This kind of qualifying Abelia generally grows in harsh conditions, such as in rock crevices or beside ditches. When digging, take care to protect the roots intact; after digging it out, keep the roots moist and place it in a shady spot as much as possible. During transport, also be careful not to damage the branches and leaves, so as not to affect the bonsai's appearance.
Training the Raw Material
After the plant is brought back, trim it to the right size. Once trimmed, seal the cuts on the branches, trunk and roots with yellow clay or plastic wrap to prevent moisture loss. Then prepare a pot; you can choose a clay pot or a cement pot. Ordinary garden soil will do, but make sure the soil is loose and breathable. Then plant the specimen in, water it thoroughly, cover the whole bonsai with a plastic bag, and place it in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot for cultivation.
Pruning
Once the plant has truly survived, it needs to be pruned and shaped. In the first year, no excessive pruning is needed; simply remove the surplus branches. Remember not to rush the pruning. During this period, you can bend or twist individual branches as you see fit to make it easier for the tree to take shape later on. Once the plant has grown to a certain height and thickness, you can begin pruning. The focus of appreciation for Abelia bonsai is the flowers and leaves, so when pruning the branches and trunk, follow the plant's own shape as much as possible and do not shape it too deliberately. After pruning is complete, carry out regular maintenance checks and promptly remove long shoots, weak branches and spent flowers to maintain the plant's ornamental effect.
Routine Management
Abelia likes sunlight, so during everyday care be sure to give it plenty of light, and place it somewhere that gets sun all day if possible. In summer, water it thoroughly, using more water than in other seasons; in other seasons, water according to the principle of "water only when dry, and water thoroughly when you do." When fertilizing Abelia, use organic fertilizer as much as possible. Before and after flowering, the amount of fertilizer must be sufficient; at other times, apply small amounts frequently. After growth stops in winter, there is temporarily no need to fertilize. With bonsai, you need to consider repotting; generally repot every 2-3 years, preferably in spring or summer. After repotting, use fresh soil, and make sure the soil's moisture and fertility are guaranteed. In addition, routine management of Abelia bonsai should include the prevention and control of pests and diseases. The most common problems are aphid infestation and sooty mold. Once discovered, take measures immediately and use treatments to eliminate the pests and diseases and keep the bonsai healthy.
An Excellent Bonsai Subject for Both Foliage and Flowers, Abelia
An Excellent Bonsai Subject for Both Foliage and Flowers - Abelia
Flower and Bonsai Network introduction: This is an article brought to you by the Flower and Bonsai Network on the principles to grasp in bonsai design. Let us take a look together below!
Abelia, of the Caprifoliaceae family and the genus Abelia, is a shrub. There are about ten varieties in China. Several varieties, such as Abelia engleriana and Abelia chinensis, are suitable as bonsai material, and are distributed from central to southwestern to southeastern China. Abelia trees are generally 1-3 m tall. The leaves are ovate and relatively small. The flowers are white or pink; the cymes are solitary or form panicles; the corolla is bell-shaped and the flowering period is fairly long; after the flowers fade, the calyx can remain on the branch tips for 1 to 2 months and is also quite beautiful. The bark is relatively thick, making the trunk look aged. The roots are gnarled and varied, with beautiful root forms. Abelia is not demanding about soil, is easy to keep alive, and requires only rough management, making it a good material for creating bonsai appreciated for both foliage and flowers.
I. Digging Up
Abelia can be dug up in all four seasons, though those dug up around Spring Festival tend to lose their bark, so care must be taken to protect them during digging and transport. Abelia generally has mostly straight trunks, so when digging you should choose raw stock that has formed after repeated cutting or trampling by people and animals. Raw stock that has been repeatedly cut, trampled, scoured by mountain floods and squeezed by rocks generally has twisted trunks, protruding bumps, beautiful root forms and unusual shapes. Good raw stock can be found on both sides of mountain paths, beside ditches at field edges, and in rock crevices. When collecting stock in these places, be careful not to damage the roads or ditch banks. It is better if the raw stock can be kept with soil; those that cannot be kept with soil can also survive. Retain as many fibrous roots as possible. For raw stock without soil, after digging it up do not let it lose water; on the mountain you can place it in a shady, damp spot or shade it with green grass or leaves. Do not cut the trunk, branches and roots of the raw stock fully to shape on the mountain, to prevent damaging the needed branches and roots during transport. Raw stock without soil must be kept moist during transport and must not be allowed to lose water.
II. Training the Raw Material
After the raw stock is brought back, cut it to the required size for planting, smooth the cuts on the trunk and branches, seal them with clean yellow clay, and wrap them with black plastic wrap to help the wounds heal and to prevent water loss and splitting when exposed to the sun later; you can also seal the cuts with wax or other materials. Smooth the root cuts to encourage rooting. Raw stock without a soil ball can be soaked in clean water for several hours before planting. Abelia is not demanding about soil; simply plant it in loose, breathable garden soil or potting mix. The raw stock can be planted in the ground or in a pot. Ground planting takes shape faster and is easier to manage. For pot planting, clay pots, cement pots or wooden boxes will all do. When planting in a pot, press the soil in firmly so the roots are not left suspended, water thoroughly once to settle the roots, cover the whole thing, pot and all, with a transparent plastic bag to retain moisture, and place it in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot for care. For raw stock dug up in hot seasons, provide shade when planting, keep the soil moist, and for potted ones keep the potting soil moist at all times. Once new buds have grown out, choose a rainy day to remove the plastic bag and harden off the plant. Before the raw stock has fully survived, do not place it on a rooftop for care; the air humidity on rooftops is low, making care difficult, and the raw stock can easily be scorched to death by the sun.
III. Pruning and Wiring
After the new stock has fully survived, in the first year simply remove the surplus branches and do not rush to prune or wire. Once the branches have grown to a certain thickness, you can bend them as needed for the design and then continue to let them grow. Wait until the needed branches have thickened, then prune them. Abelia bonsai is mainly appreciated for its flowers, leaves and base, so the styling of Abelia bonsai is generally designed and pruned according to a natural tree form. Primary branches are mainly wired; after the transitional branches have been grown thick, then prune. Secondary and tertiary branches are mainly pruned. Abelia branches grow relatively quickly, so after the plant has taken shape, prune diligently. In spring, give the new growth of the year a general pruning; in summer, cut away the rampant shoots and branches that ruin the tree's shape; in autumn, do not prune the branches you want to see flower; keep the branches that will bloom. In winter, after flowering, do one heavy pruning, cutting away spent flowers, rampant shoots and weak branches, reducing the crown spread and maintaining a good basic tree shape.
IV. Care
Abelia likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, so it is best to keep it in a spot with full sun.
Watering: After the plant has fully survived, water according to the method of not watering until dry, and watering thoroughly when you do. In summer and when flowering, increase the amount of water appropriately; insufficient water during flowering will shorten the flowering period.
Fertilizing: Abelia likes fertilizer. Normally you can apply light fertilizer frequently. Before and after flowering, appropriately increase the frequency of fertilizing. Use mainly organic fertilizer. After the plant stops growing in winter, do not fertilize anymore.
Repotting: For a shaped plant, repot once every 2-3 years depending on the amount of potting soil, choosing spring or summer. When repotting, wait until the potting soil is a bit drier: first, it is easier to remove from the pot, and second, the soil ball will not crumble, making it easier to handle. After removing it from the pot, scrape away two-thirds of the old soil, cut away the fibrous roots near the bottom and sides of the pot, replace with loose, fertile new soil, and water thoroughly.
Pest and disease control: The common pest of Abelia is aphids. It can be controlled with lime sulfur mixture; during aphid infestation, spray with 3% quick-kill emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution; or spray with 20% Confidor at 8000 times dilution. Among diseases is sooty mold. Sooty mold is caused by the excretions of aphids. When sooty mold occurs, promptly remove the diseased leaves and spray with lime sulfur mixture and fungicides to prevent the source of the disease from spreading.
November 10, 2004
[Originally published in Flowers and Bonsai, Issue 3, 2005]