Care and Management Methods and Key Points for Leucothoe 'Rainbow'

Livestock Farming Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Leucothoe 'Rainbow' is also known as drooping leucothoe, 'Rainbow' leucothoe, variegated leucothoe, and so on. Its young leaves are pale yellow, pink to red, and have colored spots, giving it fairly high ornamental value. Because Leucothoe 'Rainbow' has fairly strong cold resistance, it can be grown in the open field and overwinter safely even at a temperature of minus 17°C.

Leucothoe 'Rainbow'

I. Water and humidity

Management: About one week after cuttings are taken, in the morning or evening, check the moisture of the substrate in the plug trays of the seedbed and the air humidity inside the small arched shed, and replenish water in time so that the saturated moisture content of the substrate reaches 60% to 70% and the relative air humidity stays above 95%; afterward, check about once every week and water in time; when more than 40 days have passed after cutting, some cuttings will root at the lower part of the leaf axils; by about 50 days, about 80% have rooted, and hardening off can begin: first uncover the film at both ends of the small arched shed for ventilation to lower the relative air humidity; after 2 days the film can be completely removed, and spraying water can maintain the air humidity inside the greenhouse; afterward, always pay attention to substrate moisture and replenish water in a timely and appropriate amount.

II. Light and temperature

During the period after cutting and before hardening off, strictly control the air temperature inside the small arched shed below 35°C. When the daily maximum temperature is 30°C, the air temperature inside the small arched shed will exceed 35°C, so cooling measures must be used. Add two layers of shade netting above a single-span greenhouse or multi-span greenhouse, with a shading rate of 75% to 90%, and mist above the small arched shed once every half hour to cool the small arched shed quickly. After hardening off begins, also keep the two layers of shade netting; once new shoots have basically emerged, one layer of shade netting can be removed.

III. Disease control

The main diseases are leaf spot and root rot, caused by leaf mold fungi and Pestalotiopsis fungi, and they harm the leaves. Reddish-brown to brown lesions appear at the leaf tips and leaf margins, and at the boundary between diseased and healthy tissue there is a reddish-brown raised line; this is called red center spot disease. The diseased area has small black dots, which are the pathogens.

Jade plant

Growing environment

The jade plant is native to southern Africa. It prefers a warm, dry, and ventilated environment. It has poor cold tolerance, likes sunlight, and is slightly tolerant of partial shade.

Propagation methods

Cuttings

It is commonly propagated by cuttings. This is generally done in spring and autumn. Cut healthy top branches 7-10 cm long, preferably let them dry in a cool place for 1 day, and after the wounds are slightly dry, insert them into moist sandy soil or perlite. They root about 3 weeks after insertion, with an extremely high survival rate. Single-leaf cuttings can also be used: after cutting the leaf, let it dry slightly, then insert it into a sand bed. It roots about 4 weeks after insertion, and when the roots are 2-3 cm long, pot it up.

Water propagation

Water propagation of the jade plant roots quickly, produces many roots, and has a high survival rate.

Selection of cuttings: From April to September, cut off jade plant branches of good quality, robust growth, and free of disease; each section should be 10-15 cm long, keep 3-4 pairs of leaves at the upper end, remove two pairs of leaves at the lower end, and rinse the sap off the cut surface.

Cutting substrate and container: Take a clean, sterile water bottle or cup, fill it with clean water, and place foam or thick paper on top to hold the branches in place. The chosen cup is best if it is opaque, so as to meet the need for roots to grow quickly in darkness.

Insertion: After fixing the cuttings with foam or thick paper, place them in the cup. The water depth should preferably submerge 1/2 to 1/3 of the cuttings. Place in a ventilated, shaded spot and keep the temperature above 25°C.

Post-insertion management: After insertion, change the water once every 2-3 days. They generally root in about 7 days, with a rooting rate of almost 100%, about one week earlier than soil cuttings. After rooting, pot them up as early as possible, otherwise the roots are easily broken. After potting, place them in a shaded spot for 5-7 days, after which normal care can begin.

Cultivation techniques

Soil

For potted jade plants, it is advisable to use a mix of 2/3 leaf mold soil and 1/3 garden soil with a small amount of river sand added as the growing medium, and a little hoof pieces and other slow-release fertilizer can be placed at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer. To aid drainage, some crushed stone or tiles should also be placed at the bottom of the pot. From spring to autumn, water once every 1-2 days, and avoid water accumulation in the pot. In the high heat of summer, when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant is in a dormant or semi-dormant state, so watering should be controlled. At the same time, shade and cooling work should also be done well; spray water on the ground around the pot 2-3 times a day, and pay attention to ventilation.

Fertilizing

In spring and autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer for cacti once a month. Generally do not fertilize in summer. In winter, when the indoor temperature is too low, generally no fertilizing is needed either. Potted jade plants are generally repotted once every 3-4 years. When repotting in spring, compound fertilizer or decomposed organic fertilizer can be added as base fertilizer.

Watering

The jade plant grows fairly quickly, so to keep the plant full and shapely, do not water too much. Watering should prefer dry over wet; when dry, water thoroughly, and it is better for the potting soil to be on the dry side. In spring, when growth is vigorous, water 2-3 times a week. In the hot, humid summer, the plant is in a semi-dormant state, so watering and fertilizing should be strictly controlled. When grown outdoors, avoid heavy rain soaking, otherwise too much water accumulates at the roots, which can easily cause root rot and death. In midsummer, if ventilation is poor or there is excessive water shortage, leaves may also turn yellow and drop. After the beginning of autumn, watering should be gradually reduced. In winter, move it indoors for care, and water reasonably according to the indoor temperature.

When winter arrives, appropriately reduce the frequency of watering and keep the potting soil slightly dry. Cultivation and management are fairly extensive, and generally no fertilizing is needed. If growth is too weak, some potassium-containing liquid fertilizer can be added, or once a month during the growing season a thin application of decomposed cake fertilizer water can be added. The optimum growing temperature for the jade plant is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 7°C; below 5°C it is susceptible to cold damage. Summer heat and strong sunlight are unfavorable to plant growth. In winter, the flowerpot should be moved to a sunny spot in a shed so that the leaves remain fresh and green. Generally repot once every 1-2 years, and the soil needs to be loose, fertile, and well-draining.

Temperature

The optimum relative air humidity is 40-60%. The optimum growing temperature is 15°C-32°C. It fears high temperature and stuffiness, and enters dormancy in summer heat when the temperature is above 33°C. It avoids cold and frost; the overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10°C. In winter, when the temperature drops below 7°C, it also enters dormancy. If the ambient temperature approaches 4°C, it will die from cold injury.

Light

The jade plant likes sunlight, but in summer it should not be exposed to direct sunlight and should be kept in a ventilated, shady place. In other seasons, light can be appropriately increased, and the leaf color will become more emerald green and fuller. In winter, when the temperature is low, increasing light and reducing watering helps improve cold resistance. If kept in a dark place for a long time, the plant will become leggy, and the leaves will become thinner and yellow, reducing ornamental value.

Pruning

Shape and prune once a year, carried out when repotting in spring or when moving into the greenhouse in late autumn. Cut off diseased branches and dead leaves to make the plant shape fresher and more elegant.

Pest and disease control

The jade plant has relatively few pests and diseases. Under high temperature and high humidity, it can be harmed by anthracnose and leaf spot.

It can be sprayed with 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 600-800 times dilution, or 60% propineb·tebuconazole wettable powder at 1000 times dilution. If indoor ventilation is poor, the stems and leaves are susceptible to scale insects. If pests are found, brush them off manually immediately. When the damage is severe, 0.5% veratrine soluble concentrate at 300-500 times dilution can be sprayed for control.

What to do if the jade plant gets pests, and how to propagate the jade plant

The jade plant is a variety among succulents. Unlike most succulents, the jade plant can remain emerald green all year round. It is precisely for this reason that it is liked by many consumers on the market. But the jade plant is also a plant relatively prone to pest attack, so some techniques still need to be mastered for control.

What to do if the jade plant gets pests

The jade plant has relatively few pests and diseases. Under high temperature and high humidity, it can be harmed by anthracnose and leaf spot, and it can be sprayed with 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 600-800 times dilution, or 60% propineb·tebuconazole wettable powder at 1000 times dilution. If indoor ventilation is poor, the stems and leaves are susceptible to scale insects. If pests are found, brush them off manually immediately. When the damage is severe, 0.5% veratrine soluble concentrate at 300-500 times dilution can be sprayed for control.

How to propagate the jade plant

Cutting propagation:

Time: Generally carried out in spring and autumn. Because cutting propagation of the jade plant has relatively high soil requirements, try to choose sunny days for cutting. The soil used should also be disinfected in advance.

Method: Cut healthy top branches 7-10 cm long, let them dry in a cool place for 1 day, and after the wounds are dry, insert them into moist sandy soil or perlite. They root 3 weeks after cutting, with a very high survival rate. (If you feel your cutting technique is good enough, you can choose leaf cuttings. The method is the same: after drying the leaf, insert it directly into a sand bed, and it will root after 4 weeks.)

Potting after cutting: After the cuttings survive, they must be divided and planted. First place a 2-2 cm thick layer of coarse-grained substrate or ceramsite at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, then sprinkle a layer of decomposed organic fertilizer on top as base fertilizer. Then place the plant into the pot, taking care to keep the fertilizer separate from the plant's roots to avoid burning the roots.

How to prevent pest problems in the jade plant

The first method is to use garlic. Garlic can sterilize and also kill insects. Mash garlic cloves, add some water to dilute, and then spray it on the leaves of the jade plant to kill insects.

The second is that our daily-use soap can be used to kill insects. This is also a very useful method of pest control.

Methods for growing the jade plant

1. Soil: For potted jade plants, it is advisable to use a mix of 2/3 leaf mold soil and 1/3 garden soil with a small amount of river sand added as the growing medium, and a little hoof pieces and other slow-release fertilizer can be placed at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer. To aid drainage, some crushed stone or tiles should also be placed at the bottom of the pot. Every spring, the jade plant needs repotting, with fresh fertile soil added again.

2. Temperature: The optimum growing temperature for the jade plant is 15-32°C. It fears high temperature and stuffiness, and enters dormancy in summer heat when the temperature is above 33°C. It avoids cold and frost; the overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10°C. In winter, when the temperature drops below 7°C, it also enters dormancy. If the ambient temperature approaches 4°C, it will die from cold injury.

3. Sunlight: The jade plant likes sunlight, but in summer it should not be exposed to direct sunlight and should be kept in a ventilated, shady place. In other seasons, light can be appropriately increased, and the leaf color will become more emerald green and fuller. In winter, when the temperature is low, increasing light and reducing watering helps improve cold resistance. If kept in a dark place for a long time, the plant will become leggy, and the leaves will become thinner and yellow, reducing ornamental value.

4. Watering: From spring to autumn, the jade plant can be watered once every 1-2 days, and water accumulation in the pot should be avoided. In the high heat of summer, when the temperature reaches above 30°C, the plant is in a dormant or semi-dormant state, so watering should be controlled. At the same time, shade and cooling work should also be done well; spray water on the ground around the pot 2-3 times a day, and pay attention to ventilation. When winter arrives, appropriately reduce the frequency of watering and keep the potting soil slightly dry.

5. Fertilizing: The jade plant has low fertilizer and water requirements. In spring and autumn, apply a liquid fertilizer for cacti once a month. Generally do not fertilize in summer. In winter, when the indoor temperature is too low, generally no fertilizing is needed either. Potted jade plants are generally repotted once every 3-4 years. When repotting in spring, compound fertilizer or decomposed organic fertilizer can be added as base fertilizer.

After the jade plant is attacked by pests, chemical control can be used to completely eliminate them. In fact, this could have been avoided beforehand by using things such as garlic and soap. Once the propagation methods of the jade plant are mastered, it is fairly simple, and management needs to be strengthened later on so as to ensure its survival rate.