What to do about root rot in Vanda? Here's how to save it
Vanda is also a type of orchid with high ornamental value, but during the process of growing Vanda, things often go wrong, and you may find your beloved Vanda suffering from root rot. Growers should pay attention: if Vanda shows signs of root rot
Vanda is also a type of orchid with high ornamental value, but during the process of growing Vanda, things often go wrong, and you may find your beloved Vanda suffering from root rot. Growers should pay attention: if Vanda shows signs of root rot, be sure to deal with it promptly, otherwise it will get worse and worse and become hard to save.
What to do about root rot in VandaWhen caring for Vanda, observe carefully, and treat it immediately once signs of root rot are found.
1. Cut off the rotten roots and disinfectTake the plant out, remove the rotten roots, rinse the roots with a 1% potassium permanganate solution for disinfection, or apply some charcoal powder to the affected areas, and expose the roots to sunlight in a greenhouse for about 30 minutes. If more than 50% of the roots are rotten or all of them have rotted, after treating them with the above method, use river sand to encourage new root growth.
The temperature for encouraging root growth should be higher than usual, generally kept at around 22-30°C. In this way, new roots will grow in about 2 months, and then the plant can be transplanted into a pot with nutrient soil.
2. Control watering appropriately and keep up with nutrient supplementationVanda should not be fertilized too much; fertilization should be done in small amounts and more frequently. Otherwise, excessive fertilizer generates heat that burns the root system and causes rot. Watering should also be moderate; too much water makes the nutrient soil hold excessive moisture, reduces air permeability, makes root respiration difficult, and causes root rot.
3. Improve the soil's aeration and drainage systemIf the nutrient soil has poor aeration, poor drainage, or is too raw or too decomposed, it can easily lead to orchid root rot. At this point, improve the quality of the nutrient soil, enhance the drainage and aeration performance inside the pot, and improve the soil quality.
Rohdea japonica Rohdea japonica illustrated guide: how to grow Rohdea japonica / how to propagate Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica fact sheetRohdea japonica Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica growing methods and precautions, an introduction to Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica (scientific name: Rohdea japonica) is the only species in the genus Rohdea. It is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, also known as yun, qiannian yun, kaihoujian, jiujielian, dongbudiao, dongbudiaocao, tiebiandan, wumudu, baishacao, zhanshejian, and so on. It is native to southern China and Japan and is a very popular and excellent ornamental plant. It has a long history of cultivation in China. Its Chinese name "yun" means "a herbaceous plant that loves warmth."
Morphological characteristics of Rohdea japonica
Rhizome 1.5-2.5 cm thick. Leaves 3-6, thickly papery, oblong, lanceolate, or oblanceolate, 15-50 cm long, 2.5-7 cm wide, apex acute, base slightly narrowed, green, longitudinal veins obviously raised; sheath leaves lanceolate, 5-12 cm long. Scape shorter than the leaves, 2.5-4 cm long; spike 3-4 cm long, 1.2-1.7 cm wide; with dozens of densely packed flowers; bracts ovate, membranous, shorter than the flowers, 2.5-6 mm long, 2-4 mm wide; perianth 4-5 mm long, 6 mm wide, pale yellow, lobes thick; anthers ovate, 1.4-1.5 mm long. Berry about 8 mm in diameter, red when ripe. Flowering period May-June, fruiting period September-November.
Produced in Shandong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei, Hunan, Guangxi, Guizhou, and Sichuan. It grows in damp places under forests or on grassland, at an altitude of 750-1700 m.
The whole plant has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, dispersing blood stasis, and relieving pain. Potted plants are often kept for ornamental purposes in various places.
Perennial evergreen herb, without aboveground stems. Rhizome thick and short, yellow-white, jointed, with many slender fibrous roots growing from the nodes. Leaves clustered from the rhizome, thick, lanceolate or band-shaped, 10-25 cm long, 2.5-5.5 cm wide, margins slightly folded inward, base gradually narrowing into a petiole-like shape, dark green above, light green below, with several straight parallel veins, the midrib relatively thick. [1] In spring and summer, scapes emerge from the leaf cluster, 10-20 cm long; flowers numerous, clustered at the top in a short spike; perianth 6-parted, pale greenish-white, ovate to triangular, apex pointed, base broad, lower part fused into a disc shape; stamens 6, sessile, anthers oblong; ovary spherical, style short, stigma 3-lobed. Berry spherical, orange-red; containing 1 seed.
Variety classification of Rohdea japonica: Dieffenbachia
[Alias] Dumb cane.
[Scientific name] Dieffenbachia maculata
[Family and genus] Araceae, Dieffenbachia.
[Morphology] Perennial evergreen herb. Stem stout, mostly fleshy, plant height up to 1 m. Leaves large and glossy, borne on the upper part of the stem, elliptic-ovate or broadly lanceolate, apex acuminate, margin entire, 20-50 cm long, 5-15 cm wide, dark green on both surfaces, set with dense, irregular spots, streaks, and patches in white, milky white, pale yellow, and other colors. Common horticultural cultivars include Dieffenbachia amoena, Dieffenbachia camille, Dieffenbachia seguine 'White', and others.
[Habits] Native to tropical America. Prefers high temperature, high humidity, and semi-shade or shade. Not cold-tolerant, avoids direct strong light, and requires loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam.
[Propagation] Mainly by cuttings. In spring from April to May, cut off the small offsets produced at the base of the plant, let the wounds dry slightly, or dip the wounds in plant ash and insert them into plain sand. Pay attention to shading and moisture retention; roots will form in about 1 month and the plants can be potted.
[Cultivation] For potting, use 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part river sand, plus a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer as the growing medium. During the growing season, to keep the potting soil moist, water more frequently, preferring moist over dry, and at the same time mist the leaves. In autumn, control water, alternating between dry and moist; in winter, keep the potting soil dry. During the growing period, fertilize generally once a month. Usually prevent direct sunlight and provide shade. Repot once every spring. The wintering temperature in winter must not be lower than 10°C.
[Uses] Potted ornamental. Suitable for decorating living rooms and studies.
Decorative application: small potted plants can be placed on desks and windowsills for viewing. Medium potted plants are suitable for placing in the living room, beside the sofa as decoration, and can fill the room with green vitality.
Light: Tolerant of semi-shade, avoids excessively strong sunlight, but too dark light can also cause leaf fading.
Water: Likes moisture; water more during the growing period from March to August. In summer, sprinkle water frequently to increase environmental humidity.
Temperature: Likes high temperature, not cold-tolerant; suitable growing temperature 20-30°C. The minimum wintering temperature should be above 12°C. Once frozen, the leaves turn yellow and wilt, and the terminal bud dies.
Fertilizer: During the growing period, apply nitrogen fertilizer monthly to promote rapid growth; from March to August, apply fertilizer solution once every two weeks. Reduce fertilization after autumn.
Soil: Requires loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
[Propagation]: Cutting propagation. Can be done in spring and summer. Take 10-15 cm long young shoots and insert them into a yellow sand medium; they will root in 20-30 days. Later, repot into new pots according to plant size.
Ornithogalum caudatum
[Brief introduction] Ornithogalum caudatum is native to southern Africa. It likes sunlight and is also tolerant of semi-shade and cold. In summer it fears direct sunlight and likes a moist environment. After heavy frost in winter, the leaf cluster still remains verdant. The bulb has a summer dormancy habit, has strong dividing ability, and a high propagation coefficient.
[Propagation] Commonly propagated by bulb division and sowing. For natural bulb division propagation, dig up the bulbs in August-September, grade them by size, and plant them; after one planting, divide the bulbs again after several years when the bulbs become crowded. For sowing propagation, seedlings need 3-4 years of cultivation before they can bloom.
[Cultivation] Grows robustly and tolerates extensive management. Fertilize once every half month; the soil should be loose, moist, and well-drained. After flowering, remove the residual flower stalks, and the next year's flowering will be more abundant. The storage temperature for bulbs is 25°C, and they need dry, ventilated conditions.
[Pests and diseases] Diseases include mosaic disease, and the virus is spread by aphids. It can be controlled by spraying with a 2.5% derris extract 800-fold solution.
[Uses] Ornithogalum caudatum blooms from mid-April to early May. The flowers are white, orange, and double-flowered types. In spring, the star-shaped white flowers flicker, elegant and simple. It is an excellent material for arranging natural-style gardens and rock gardens, and is also suitable for cut flowers and potted ornamental display.
Aglaonema
Also called Chinese evergreen. Aglaonema is a perennial herb in the Araceae family, with a plant height of 60-70 cm. The stem is upright and unbranched, with obvious nodes.
Leaves alternate, petioles long, base enlarged into a sheath; leaves green, long lanceolate or ovate-lanceolate. Blooms in autumn; inflorescences axillary, shorter than the petioles.
Its leaves are broad and glossy, emerald green in all seasons, and especially shade-tolerant. It can be cut to make foliage bonsai arrangements or used as a foil in flower arrangements to decorate the environment, and can also be used for potted decoration in halls and rooms.
Chinese Rohdea japonica
Chinese Rohdea japonica, well known in both ancient and modern times, emerald green and evergreen in all seasons, with orange-red large fruits that do not wither in winter. It is regarded among the people as a symbol of good fortune and is widely cultivated in both the north and south. In the north, potted plants can be placed indoors for viewing in all seasons.
Rohdea japonica is a perennial herbaceous flower in the Liliaceae family, genus Rohdea. Underground it has a short, thick rhizome. Leaves grow in a cluster from the top of the rhizome, band-shaped or oblanceolate. The flower scape is relatively short, emerging from the leaf cluster, with a terminal spike, small white densely packed flowers, and spherical orange-red berries. The flowering period is June to July. In the north, potted plants rarely bear fruit and are mainly grown for foliage.
The genus Rohdea is native to China and has only this one species. Varieties include golden-edged Rohdea japonica, silver-edged Rohdea japonica, Dieffenbachia, as well as large-leaf, fine-leaf, and dwarf forms. Also commonly cultivated is Aglaonema, also known as bamboo-joint Rohdea japonica, a perennial herbaceous flower in the Araceae family, from South China, Southwest China, India to Malaysia. It shares the same name as Rohdea japonica but belongs to a different family and genus. Its varieties include the four queens: Gold, Silver, Jade, and Beauty. The leaf colors are inlaid like gold and jade, brilliant and colorful, and all rank among the best indoor ornamental foliage plants today.
Rohdea japonica and Aglaonema are potted plants that require a humus-rich, loose, fertile, slightly acidic growing medium. They like high temperature and high humidity, are not tolerant of severe cold, and should not overwinter below 5°C. They like shade and avoid direct strong light. In winter they can be placed in a sunny spot, and in summer they should be shaded. Avoid soaking by rain. Chinese Rohdea japonica is mainly propagated by division. Aglaonema is mainly propagated by cuttings, preferably in March or from September to October. Aglaonema can also have 8 cm long stem sections cut and soaked in clear water to root before planting, or be grown in glass containers in water to enjoy the leaves and roots; it remains unfading for a long time. If you want the leaf color to be dark green, apply a mixed solution of 0.2% urea and 0.1% monopotassium phosphate once or twice in spring and autumn.
Rohdea japonica and Aglaonema should have their pots and soil changed once every two to three years in early spring. After repotting, place them in a warm, humid, shaded place, and frequently mist the leaves and surrounding environment to keep them moist. In the Beijing area, they can be placed outdoors under a shade shed after mid-May, and brought indoors in early October, placed in a spot with fresh air and no smoke or dust pollution.
Tradescantia spathacea
Rhoeo discolor alias: oyster plant, purple-leaved spiderwort, purple boat lily, Commelinaceae
The genus Rhoeo discolor is native to Mexico and the West Indies
It is an evergreen perennial herbaceous plant. Leaves lanceolate, green on the upper surface with stripes in varying shades, purple-red on the underside, also with stripes in varying shades of purple-red (see figure). Stems and leaves somewhat succulent. Flowering period August-October, tends to set seed easily. The small flowers are white. Because the flowers are borne within two purple-red, mussel-shaped large bracts, resembling a mussel shell spitting out pearls, it is also called "mussel flower."
Its leaves have different colors on each side, bright green with variations, the plant shape is moderate, and the posture is graceful. The red bracts contain many jade-white small flowers, with obvious color contrast, peculiar and interesting, presenting the scene of a mussel shell spitting out pearls. It is very rare and never tires the eye.
Tradescantia spathacea likes semi-shade and humid environments, prefers fertile, loose sandy loam, is relatively drought-tolerant, fears exposure to strong sun, and fears cold. It stops growing at 10°C, so overwintering above 10°C is preferable.
It has fairly good shade tolerance and also a relatively strong ability to adapt to dry climates, so it has become an excellent foliage plant for indoor cultivation in both northern and southern China. It can be placed for a long time in a bright living room; if the room is relatively dark, it is best to replace it about once every 20 days.
Its propagation is mainly by sowing. The tiny seeds can be sown as soon as they are collected and will sprout in half a month. When the seedlings are 3-5 cm tall, they can be transplanted. It can also be propagated by cuttings, carried out in spring and autumn. Cut off the leafy top part and insert it into sandy soil, place it in a shaded place, do not keep it too wet, and it will root in about 20 days. When new leaves grow, switch to normal management. The remaining old stems can still send out new shoots again.
Dieffenbachia 'Zebra'
Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' is also called Dieffenbachia amoena and dumb cane. It is a perennial herbaceous plant in the Araceae family. The stem is cylindrical and fleshy, and often has white ring marks on the stem, which are traces left after leaves fall off. The leaves of Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' are long elliptic, and irregular white or goose-yellow spots and streaks are scattered on both sides of the green main vein, making it look especially beautiful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name Dieffenbachia 'Zebra'.
Native to Colombia, it likes hot and humid conditions. The growing temperature should be kept at 25°C to 30°C, and the winter room temperature should be kept at 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' is suitable for indoor cultivation. When cultivating it, a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray, so that moisture can continuously enter through the small holes in the bottom of the pot to keep the potting soil humid.
Common varieties include:
1. Golden-edged Rohdea japonica (var. marginata).
2. Silver-edged Rohdea japonica (Var. variegata).
There are also other varieties such as large-leaf, fine-leaf, dwarf, and those with yellow-white markings. Japan and Taiwan, China have more of them.
Distribution area of Rohdea japonica
Rohdea japonica is native to China and Japan. It is widely distributed in China, found in East China, Central China, and Southwest China. The main producing areas include Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Hubei, and other places.
Ecological habits of Rohdea japonica
It likes to grow in damp places under forests or in grassland.
It likes semi-shade, warmth, humidity, and a well-ventilated environment. It is not drought-tolerant and slightly cold-tolerant; it avoids direct sunlight and waterlogging.
It can be cultivated in general garden soil, but the best is slightly acidic sandy loam rich in [2] humus, loose, and with good water permeability.
Propagation methods of Rohdea japonica
Both sowing and division propagation are possible.
The berries of Rohdea japonica mature in December. After maturing, they can be sown as soon as collected into pot soil mixed with half fine sand and half leaf mold. Cover the pot with glass or tie on plastic film to maintain the potting soil's moisture, temperature, and light. If the temperature is controlled at 20°C, they will germinate in 20-30 days. When the seedlings grow to 3-4 leaves, they can be divided and potted.
(1) Division method: Division method: The underground stem of Rohdea japonica has strong sprouting ability. In spring and autumn, use a sharp knife to cut off new sprouts at the rhizome together with some lateral roots, coat the wounds with plant ash, plant them in pots, water lightly, place in a shaded place, and after 1-2 days water thoroughly. You can also turn the entire plant out of the pot, and depending on the plant size, use a sharp tool to divide it into several parts. Let the wounds dry for a day or coat them with plant ash, then pot them and manage as described above.
(2) Sowing method: Sowing is generally carried out from March to April. Sow in flower pots filled with growing medium, water, then temporarily place in a shaded place, keep moist, and under conditions of 25-30°C, they will germinate in about 25 days.
Cultivation techniques of Rohdea japonica: cultivation management
For potted Rohdea japonica, it is best to use sandy loam rich in humus as the growing medium. The soil pH for Rohdea japonica is 6-6.5, which can fully release soil nutrients and effectively promote flowering and fruiting. Repot once a year regularly. When repotting, remove decayed dead leaves and rhizomes, and use acidic soil with potassium fertilizer as the growing soil. After planting, place Rohdea japonica in a cool place for a few days so it can recover its vitality.
Cultivation methods for Rohdea japonica: keep it warm, humid, and in semi-shade. In summer, when growth is vigorous, it needs to be placed in a shaded place to avoid strong light; otherwise, it easily causes dry leaf tips and scorched edges, affecting the ornamental effect. Therefore, after being brought outdoors in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or eaves or in a shaded spot on a balcony. Rohdea japonica is a fleshy-root plant, and water accumulation easily leads to waterlogging; too much watering easily causes root rot. But air humidity must be maintained; if the air is dry, leaf tip drying and other undesirable phenomena also easily occur. In summer, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Also be careful to prevent heavy rain from drenching it, especially during the flowering period, when it must not be rained on; place it in a shaded, dry, ventilated place protected from rain.
During the growing period, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once about every 20 days; in early summer, when growth is more vigorous, apply Rohdea japonica liquid fertilizer once about every 10 days. A small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the topdressing, which can promote better growth and make the leaves dark green and glossy. In the vigorous flowering period of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once about every 15 days to promote flower bud differentiation and facilitate better flowering and fruiting (around the beginning of summer, cut off a few old leaves from the outer part of mature plants to encourage the sprouting of new buds, new leaves, and the emergence of flower scapes).
In winter, Rohdea japonica needs to be moved indoors to overwinter, placed in a sunny, well-ventilated place, with the temperature kept at 6-18°C. If the room temperature is too high, it easily causes leggy leaves and consumes a large amount of nutrients, leading to weak growth the next year and affecting normal flowering and fruiting. If leaf tips turn yellow and scorched in winter, or even the whole plant withers, this is mainly caused by the roots being unable to absorb water, affecting growth. Therefore, in winter, air humidity should also be maintained and the potting soil should be kept slightly moist. Generally, watering 1-2 times a week is suitable. In addition, the leaves should be sprayed and washed with warm water once a week to prevent the leaves from being polluted by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh green and evergreen in all seasons.
Key cultivation points
The planting environment should be kept warm, humid, and in semi-shade. In summer, it is best to place it indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill or outdoors in a shaded place, avoiding direct strong sunlight; otherwise, the leaves are easily scorched. In addition to watering adequately, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Pay attention to water control. After moving indoors in winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the room temperature is too low, it easily causes the plant to suffer cold, drop leaves, and die.
Precautions
1. Planting: Plant in spring or change the pot and soil. It has no strict requirements for soil, but fears waterlogging. When planting in the ground or in pots, avoid hard clay and alkaline soil. For potting, generally use a mixed soil of leaf mold plus sand. In the south, it can be potted or grown in the open ground; in the north, it needs greenhouse cultivation. Change the soil once a year, repot once every 2 years, and supplement with new fertile soil.
2. Light and temperature: Rohdea japonica likes a semi-shade environment and fears direct sun in summer. For greenhouse cultivation, shade more than 60% in spring, summer, and autumn, and 40% in winter. Too strong light easily causes sunscald, and too weak light makes flowering and fruiting difficult. The suitable growing temperature is 15-18°C. In winter, when dormant, move it into the greenhouse, place it in a sunny place, and keep the temperature above 10°C; the minimum temperature must not be lower than 5°C. In the Yangtze River basin, it can overwinter in the open ground; although the leaves may suffer frost damage, new leaves can still sprout again the next year.
3. Watering and fertilizing: During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 10-15 days. In summer, strengthen ventilation, prevent heat and lower temperature, and supply water adequately, frequently maintaining the moisture of the potting soil and the air humidity of the surrounding environment. In summer, water 1-2 times a day. In winter, reduce watering and stop fertilizing.
4. Shaping and pruning: To maintain a good plant shape and improve ornamental value, as the plant grows, the yellow leaves, residual leaves, and some old leaves at the lower part of the plant should be pruned in time. When growing in home pots, you can use a soft cloth dipped in beer to wipe the leaves, which not only removes dust but also adds nutrients to the leaves, making them bright green and clean.
Cultivation of Ornithogalum caudatum
Depending on the growth cycle or plant type, the distribution differs, and the cultivation methods also vary somewhat. The bulbous bulbs grow on or in the ground, ovate or spherical; the leaf flesh is thick, evergreen, alternately arranged on both sides from the base, with a beautiful luster on the surface, shaped like a tongue; flowers are solitary, with small pedicels, and numerous stamens, with yellow anthers at the tips. Because Japanese people think it looks very much like the brush used by ancient Japanese ladies to brush away excess white powder from their eyebrows, it is called eyebrow brush hair. The spherical red berries and seeds resemble those of clivia and are fleshy.
Ornithogalum caudatum is strong in both heat tolerance and cold tolerance, with a minimum of about 5°C, but evergreen varieties are best kept above 8°C so the leaves will have beautiful ornamental value. It is robust in nature and free of pests and diseases, but attention should be paid to damage by red spider mites. If any are seen, spraying a little insecticide is enough.
Cultivation is quite easy. It avoids direct strong light. In summer, it needs to be placed in a ventilated, half-day shaded place for cultivation. It can be placed indoors, but attention must be paid to sufficient light to prevent leggy leaves and affect growth. It has good drought tolerance and avoids high humidity. If the soil is too wet, it easily causes the bulb to rot. During the growing period, water thoroughly after the surface soil dries. Once a month, apply Hyponex No. 2 or Hyponex solution diluted and use it as water. However, the closer it gets to the dormancy period, the more the frequency and amount of water should be gradually reduced. During the dormancy period, watering can be stopped. However, evergreen varieties can still be given a little water during dormancy to maintain the emerald green of the leaves.
Repotting can be done at the end of the dormancy period or in the early part of the growing period. Summer-dormant types can be repotted around July, and winter-dormant types around April. Use well-drained soil; small-grain akadama soil and Daibutsu growing medium can be mixed for use. When planting, let about half of the bulb be exposed above the soil surface, planting it shallowly in the pot.
Generally, it can be propagated by dividing bulbs or by sowing. The bulbs can be divided about once every 3-5 years, which is a fairly simple and easy method. You can also sow the mature fleshy seeds from the spherical berries after the flowers fade. However, the germination rate of the seeds decreases as storage time lengthens, and they do not store well, so they should be sown as soon as possible. For Ornithogalum caudatum, from seed germination to blooming takes at least about 3-4 years. What a long wait!
Ornithogalum caudatum is easy to cultivate and robust in nature. Usually, its fresh green leaves can be enjoyed as a foliage plant, and when it blooms, you can also appreciate its peculiar flowers. It is quite suitable for beginners growing succulents to cultivate.
Care knowledge: Aglaonema
An evergreen herbaceous plant in the Araceae family, genus Aglaonema, also known as Chinese evergreen. The stem is upright, 40 cm to 50 cm tall. Leaves ovate to ovate-lanceolate, base obtuse, apex acuminate. The inflorescence emerges from the lower sheath, and the spathe is small and green.
Produced in Southwest China and South China, and also distributed from India to Malaysia. It likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. For potting, loose, fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil is suitable. It is not cold-tolerant; the wintering temperature is 5°C to 8°C. The leaves need frequent misting, and the potting soil should be kept moist frequently. It is mainly propagated by cuttings, and roots very easily at 25°C; division can also be used.
Aglaonema is very adaptable to indoor environments. It can be potted or placed in a vase, and it can keep growing and remain unfading for a long time. Common famous varieties include: Aglaonema commutatum, with a short stem, branching at the base, ovate leaves, white spots, and white veins. Aglaonema pictum, shrub-like, with irregular bright green or gray-white markings on the leaf surface. Aglaonema 'Pseudobracteatum', with a white stem, green lines, and branching. The leaf surface has irregular yellow-brown markings, and the spathe is greenish-white. These three Aglaonema varieties are not cold-tolerant, and the suitable wintering temperature should not be lower than 18°C.
Dieffenbachia
The leaves of Dieffenbachia have many irregular white or pale yellow spots, with bright coloration and green color in all seasons.
[Water]: Likes moisture. Water more in summer, but avoid waterlogging, and frequently mist the leaves. Reduce watering in winter. Do not let it be rained on during the flowering period.
[Fertilizer]: Has low fertilizer requirements. Apply base fertilizer when repotting; generally no additional fertilizing is needed.
[Soil]: Highly adaptable, but loose, well-aerated, slightly acidic loam is most suitable.
[Temperature]: In northern regions, it needs to overwinter indoors; in Jiangnan, it can overwinter in the open ground, and will not suffer frost damage above 5°C.
[Light]: Likes semi-shade and avoids exposure to strong sun. Indoors, it should be placed in a ventilated place and given indirect light.
[Propagation]: Division propagation. In early spring, divide the sprouting shoots and plant them together with the roots; they survive easily. Sowing is also possible, but generally not used. Division can be combined with repotting. Generally repot once a year, divide the clustered plant into several clumps and cultivate them separately, and divide once every 3 years.
Tradescantia spathacea
Tradescantia spathacea is also called purple boat lily. It is an evergreen perennial herb in the Commelinaceae family. The leaves are broadly lanceolate, arranged in a ring on the short stem. The leaf surface is smooth and dark green, and the leaf underside is dark purple; the flowers are axillary, with white flowers enclosed by two mussel-shell-like purple bracts, and white long hairs on the filaments. It is a common indoor foliage plant.
This plant is native to Mexico and the West Indies. It likes a warm, humid climate and is suitable for growing in environments with a temperature of 15-25°C. It likes light and is also shade-tolerant, fears strong sun, and requires fertile soil with good water retention.
For Tradescantia spathacea potting soil, it is best to mix 2 parts pond mud and 1 part peat. Because it is highly adaptable and relatively easy to manage, apart from shading or placing it in semi-shade from May to October, it should be given sufficient light at other times; watering should prefer moist over dry, but it should not be excessively humid or waterlogged, otherwise root rot will occur over time; when the weather is dry, mist frequently to keep the growing environment at relatively high air humidity. Fertilization should not be excessive; applying cake fertilizer water once or twice is enough. In winter, place it indoors in a humid spot, keep it at around 6-10°C, and keep the soil slightly moist; do not let it be too wet.
Tradescantia spathacea is mostly propagated by division, and can also be propagated by cuttings and sowing. Division is usually carried out in spring together with repotting. The method is to cut the dense mother plant apart at the gaps with a sharp knife for division. Cuttings can be done during the growing season. The method is to cut off 7-10 cm of the stem tip, remove the lower leaves, insert it into sand, keep it moist, and it will root in about 2 weeks. Sowing is often done in pots in April, and the seedlings grow rapidly after emergence. When the seedlings are about one cun tall, transplant them in time, and by autumn of that year they can grow into full plants.
Dieffenbachia 'Zebra'
Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' is native to Colombia. It likes a warm, humid climate. The optimum growing temperature is 25°C to 30°C. In winter, the indoor temperature should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. For potting soil, a mix of 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam, and 1 part sand can be used. Dieffenbachia 'Zebra' likes a semi-shade environment and avoids direct sunlight, and can be grown indoors all year round. It is tolerant of water and moisture; a water tray can be placed under the pot with water in it, so that water continuously infiltrates the potting soil through the small holes in the bottom of the pot. In winter, watering should be controlled; the lower the temperature, the more attention should be paid to watering less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and fall off, but as long as they are not damaged by freezing, new leaves can grow again the next spring. If placed indoors for winter and growth is weak with a tendency to become leggy, it can be placed outdoors in semi-shade for a period during the growing season, and moved back indoors after its vitality recovers. Fertilization can be carried out during the growing season, depending on growth vigor, once or twice a month, applying more decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer to promote blue-green leaf color, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used too much.
Its "flower" is the typical Araceae spadix inflorescence with a spathe. It rarely or does not set seeds, so it is difficult to propagate by seed. Propagation is basically vegetative, mainly by tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method is to cut old stems into 10-15 cm small sections in spring, insert them obliquely into sandy soil, keep them moist, and transplant them into pots after they root and grow leaves. You can also cut the stem during the peak growing season into small sections with one or two nodes, about five or six cm long, let them dry for a few days until the cut surface is dry, then plant them directly in pots, keep them moist, and they will quickly root and grow leaves. You can also cut leafy stem sections and insert them into a transparent glass water bottle, fix them with white rice stone used for architectural decoration, and in about half a month you can see them grow pure white jade-like fibrous roots, so you can enjoy both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, take care during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth, or eyes. There are more than 30 species in the same genus as Dieffenbachia 'Zebra', which also have some ornamental value, but this species is the largest; its leaves are thick and hard, with elegant and beautiful markings and luster, and the plant is tall with a stout stem, making it an ideal indoor ornamental plant.
Other types
Its cultivation requirements are: warmth, humidity and partial shade. In summer, potted plants are best placed indoors about 80 cm from a south-facing windowsill, or outdoors in a shaded spot, avoiding direct strong sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched. In addition to watering adequately, water should be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to help create a humid microclimate. During the growing period, do not water too much; when the surface of the potting soil turns pale, that is the right time to water. Apply liquid fertilizer once every half month.
In the north, after being brought indoors for winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 12°C. If the temperature is too low, it easily leads to cold damage, leaf drop and death. In winter, rinse the leaf surface with warm water once a week to prevent the leaves from being soiled by smoke and dust, so as to keep the stems and leaves fresh and beautiful.
Management
For potted lucky bamboo (Rohdea japonica), it is best to use sandy loam rich in humus as the growing medium. A soil pH between 6 and 6.5 is relatively favorable for fully bringing out the effectiveness of nutrients and is suitable for the plant to flower and fruit. Repot once a year in March-April or October-November. When repotting, remove the aged rhizomes and persistent dead leaves, and plant in a fertilized acidic growing medium. After potting, place it in a shaded spot for a few days. The cultivation requirements of Rohdea japonica are: warmth, humidity and partial shade. It grows vigorously in summer, so it needs to be placed in a shaded spot to avoid strong light, otherwise it easily causes dry leaf tips and scorched edges, affecting the ornamental effect. Rohdea japonica has fleshy roots and is most afraid of waterlogging, so it cannot be watered too much, otherwise it easily causes root rot. Usually just water the potting soil with an appropriate amount of water; do not water until the potting soil is dry, and it is better to keep it on the dry side than too wet. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent. In summer, water should also be sprinkled on the ground around the flower pot every morning and evening to create a humid microclimate. Care should also be taken to protect it from heavy rain.[3]
During the growing period, apply a decomposed liquid fertilizer once about every 20 days; in early summer, when growth is more vigorous, apply a liquid fertilizer once about every 10 days, and a small amount of 0.5% ammonium sulfate can be added to the topdressing; in this way, it can promote better growth, with dark green and glossy leaf color. In the vigorous flowering period of June-July, apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once about every 15 days to promote flower bud differentiation, so as to better flower and fruit. During the flowering period, it must not be exposed to rain, and should be placed in a shaded, dry and ventilated place free from rain.
In winter, Rohdea japonica needs to be moved indoors to overwinter, placed in a spot with ample sunlight and good ventilation, with the temperature kept at 6-18°C, to prevent the room temperature from being too high, which would cause the plant to consume nutrients excessively.
Fruiting
The fruit of Rohdea japonica is often not easy to set. How can it be made to set fruit?
① Do not water too frequently; do not water until the potting soil is dry. It is better to keep it on the dry side than too wet.
② During flowering, it must not be exposed to rain; place it in a cool, ventilated place free from rain.
③ Do not fertilize too much; applying winter fertilizer once a year is enough.
④ There must be an environment for snails to transfer pollen.
If the above four points can be achieved, fruiting can generally be expected. It flowers in May-June and the fruit ripens in September-October. Under normal circumstances, the fruit does not drop after going through winter.
Leaves
Rohdea japonica likes a warm, humid and partially shaded environment, and avoids direct strong sunlight in summer. The key to growing Rohdea japonica well is to avoid direct strong sunlight when the weather is hot and the sunshine is intense in summer. Otherwise, it easily causes dry leaf tips and scorched edges or even yellowing and withering, affecting the ornamental effect.
Therefore, after being moved outdoors in early spring, it should be placed under a shaded trellis or under the eaves or in a shaded spot on the balcony, and care should be taken to prevent rain. Apart from keeping the potting soil moist in summer, watering in spring and autumn should not be too frequent, and watering should be controlled in winter. Rohdea japonica has fleshy roots, so it is most afraid of waterlogging; if watered too much, it easily rots the roots. However, the air must be kept humid; if the air is dry, undesirable phenomena such as dry leaf tips also easily occur.
In spring and autumn, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 3-4 weeks, which can make the plant grow robustly with green leaves. In addition, around the beginning of summer, several old leaves on the outer part of the mature plant should be cut off to facilitate the sprouting of new shoots and new leaves and the emergence of flower scapes.
Cold damage
When the winter temperature is below 5°C, Dieffenbachia is highly susceptible to cold damage, and if not managed promptly, it can cause death. So, what corresponding measures should be taken after cold damage?
[Very slight cold damage]: The leaf surface loses its proper luster, and the leaves droop as if losing water. At this time, Dieffenbachia should be moved to a warmer place so that it gradually returns to normal. Note that the temperature must not rise sharply after the damage, to avoid leaf wilting.
[Mild cold damage]: In addition to drooping, the leaves develop cold-damage spots resembling scalding by boiling water. When handling, cut off the cold spots on the leaves and move the plant to a warm place.
[Moderate cold damage]: Most of the leaves show cold spots, and the petioles show water-soaked patches and lose green color. At this time, cut off the leaves together with the petioles, smear the wounds with plant ash or coal ash, then place in a warm place, appropriately control watering, and let it slowly return to normal.
[Severe cold damage]: The young branches and new leaves lose green color and show water-soaked patches, and the underground root system suffers cold damage and root rot. The remedy is to promptly dig up the plant, cut off the underground parts, and cut off the damaged branches and stems; after smearing the wounds with plant ash, store them in moist plain sand, and carry out cuttings in early spring. If severe cold damage occurs and disease spots appear on the entire plant, then the hope of saving it is very slim, and replacing the plant should be considered.
Pest and disease control of Rohdea japonica
During the growing period, Rohdea japonica is susceptible to leaf spot, anthracnose, scale insects, brown soft scale and other damage.
(1) Leaf spot. This disease occurs on the leaves of Rohdea japonica, and is prone to occur in weather with high humidity. The lesions are initially small brown spots, with a water-soaked, faded green margin, and expand in concentric rings, round to oval, with brown edges and grayish-white centers. In the later stage, dark brown mold spots appear in the center of the lesions, becoming a dark brown mold layer under humid conditions. The method to control this disease is to promptly remove diseased and dead leaves; both in the early and late stages of the disease, spray with 0.5%-1% Bordeaux mixture (or 50% carbendazim 1000-fold solution).
(2) Anthracnose. This disease also occurs on the leaves of Rohdea japonica, and in severe cases can spread to the petioles. The lesions are initially water-soaked small yellow spots, and after expanding become oval to irregular brown or yellow-brown, slightly showing concentric rings; in the later stage the lesions join together into a dry and withered appearance, and produce small black dots arranged in concentric rings. This disease is mainly caused by poor ventilation, and the presence of scale insect damage favors the occurrence of the disease. The method to control this disease is to strengthen care and apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; in the early stage of the disease, spray with 0.3%-0.5% equal-amount Bordeaux mixture (or 60% zineb 800-900-fold solution, or 70% thiophanate 1500-fold solution).
(3) Brown soft scale. This insect has complex feeding habits and can harm many plants, and Rohdea japonica is one of the affected flowers. When brown soft scale harms plants, it generally gathers on the leaf surface or tender leaves, piercing and sucking the plant sap, and at the same time excretes sticky liquid; its excrement easily causes a large proliferation of sooty mold fungi, making the stems and leaves turn black, affecting the plant's photosynthesis, causing weak growth and yellowing leaves, and hindering ornamentation. In severe cases, the branches and stems are covered with insect bodies, causing the plant to turn yellow and wither, affecting growth.
Control methods: ① If there are few affected plants, or the number of insects is small, generally scraping off the insect bodies with a bamboo strip or similar object is enough; ② During the nymph hatching period, spray with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution (or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution), and spraying with 5% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate 1000-fold solution can also kill them.
[Distribution] Jiangsu, Zhejiang and other places.
[Symptoms] In the early stage of the leaf disease, water-soaked small spots appear on the back of the leaves; after 2-3 days the lesions slightly sink, becoming small brown spots, pinhead-sized, round or irregular, and later gradually expand into dark brown or reddish-brown round or irregular lesions, 1.5-3.0 mm in diameter, with the lesions slightly showing concentric rings and a faded zone around the margins. Many spots can occur on a single leaf, especially on the older leaves at the lower part, where there are more spots. The expanding lesions gradually join together, and the veins and petioles also turn brown, causing most of the leaf to die; the stem symptom is called black rot, with the vascular bundles of the diseased stems and branches turning brown to black. At this time, the leaves on the stems wither, showing angular necrosis symptoms; subsequently the bacteria infect the pith and cortex, with only a few leaf clusters remaining at the top of the branches, and the stems turn entirely black, shrink and rot. When cuttings are affected, they cannot root, and slowly rot from the base upward, with the leaves withering and showing angular necrosis.
[Pathogen] The pathogen is a bacterium, Xanthomonas campestris pv. pelargonii of the genus Xanthomonas, order Eubacteriales, class Eubacteriae, with a rounded apex, rod-shaped, and a single polar flagellum. The optimum temperature for growth and development is 25-27°C, the minimum is 1°C, and the lethal temperature is 51-51.5°C.
[Disease pattern] The bacteria can be spread by cuttings, contact and splashing water droplets, and seeds may carry the bacteria and spread them; in moist soil the pathogen can survive for 3 months; in greenhouse cultivation, when planting is too dense and growth is rapid, the disease is severe; the disease is severe on the older leaves at the lower part of the plant, and severe in warm and humid conditions; high nitrogen, high phosphorus and low calcium favor the disease, while high potassium, low phosphorus and high calcium suppress the symptoms. Different species and cultivars of geranium differ in disease resistance: among geranium cultivars, Pelargonium grandiflorum is highly resistant, Pelargonium graveolens is moderately resistant, and Pelargonium peltatum is highly susceptible. Some plants of the Geraniaceae are asymptomatic carriers.
[Control methods]
(1) Horticultural control: The plants should have ventilation and light transmission, avoiding excessively high humidity; do not directly spray water on the plants, so as to avoid spreading disease through splashing water droplets; do not select cuttings from diseased plants; remove all diseased leaves and diseased branches, and avoid contaminating the leaves with bacteria-carrying soil. Diseased soil should be handled in a centralized way, and when necessary, the soil and flower pots should be sterilized. The pathogen can survive in the soil on propagation beds, so avoid splashing diseased soil onto healthy plants. Spray 1% Bordeaux mixture once every 10-15 days for prevention.
(2) Chemical control: Spray agricultural streptomycin 1000 units, or try 14% copper ammonium complex 300-fold solution, or 50% sterilizing agent 1000-fold solution.
(3) Thoroughly remove all diseased plants and diseased residues. Soak and disinfect flower pots, planting benches and tools with 10% bleaching powder solution; disinfect the soil with 2% formalin solution, or replace it with new soil. Use disease-free seedlings.
(4) Before and after the disease occurs, spray 1% Bordeaux mixture or (500-1000) x 0.000001 agricultural streptomycin, for several consecutive times.
Medicinal or dietary therapeutic value of Rohdea japonica
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Medicinal value
Rohdea japonica is the plant Rohdea japonica of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, and is used medicinally with its rhizome or whole herb. Rohdea japonica is also known as zhan she jian, dong bu diao cao, tie bian dan and jiu jie lian. Rohdea japonica has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, strengthening the heart and promoting diuresis. Rohdea japonica has the effects of preventing and treating diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, bacterial dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease.
Medicinal name: Rohdea japonica
Aliases: zhan she jian, dong bu diao cao, tie bian dan, jiu jie lian.
Meridian entry: Bitter, slightly sweet, cold. Slightly toxic.
Effects: Clearing heat and detoxifying, strengthening the heart and promoting diuresis.
Indications: Used for preventing and treating diphtheria, myocarditis caused by diphtheria, sore throat, bacterial dysentery, and heart failure due to rheumatic heart disease; external use for treating traumatic injuries, venomous snake bites, burns and scalds, mastitis, and boils and swelling with toxin.
Usage and dosage: Rhizome 15-25 g; leaves 5-10 g; external use in an appropriate amount, mashed to extract juice and applied to the affected area, or mashed and applied to the affected area.
Source: Rohdea japonica is the plant Rohdea japonica of the genus Rohdea in the Liliaceae family, used medicinally with its rhizome or whole herb. The rhizome is dug in autumn, washed, with fibrous roots removed, used fresh or sliced and dried in the sun. The whole herb is used fresh and can be collected in all four seasons.
Source morphology: Perennial evergreen herb. Rhizome short and thick. Leaves basal, broadly strap-shaped, thickly leathery. In spring and summer, a dense spike forms on the scape; the perianth is connate, spherical-bell-shaped, with six lobes, not very obvious, fleshy, pale yellow or brown; six stamens; ovary spherical, stigma three-lobed. Berry spherical, orange-red when ripe. Produced in China and Japan; commonly cultivated in southwestern, central and eastern China.
The sap of Rohdea japonica is toxic, generally with the tissue fluid of the stem being the most toxic. Generally, when the sticky liquid gets on the hands or skin, it causes an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching without paying attention will make it itch more. Note that Rohdea japonica includes those of the genus Dieffenbachia and the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two varieties is different. If taken into the body as Chinese medicine, about 1 hour after excessive internal use symptoms appear such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, salivation and loss of appetite, blurred vision and fatigue; in more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a sense of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat and decreased blood pressure; in severe cases, the patient is restless, with convulsions, coma and dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular beats, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block and junctional rhythm, etc.
Rescue method: For its rescue method and precautions, refer to digitalis.
A potassium salt therapeutic diagnostic test can also be done: take 15-25 ml of 10% potassium chloride solution, add it to 500 ml of 5% glucose solution, and under close observation of the heart, complete the intravenous drip within 2 hours. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine detoxification is as follows:
1. Ginseng 9 g, Ophiopogon 9 g, Schisandra 6 g, decoct twice in water, combine together, and take in 2 divided doses.
2. Strong tea with an appropriate amount of white sugar, drink frequently.
3. Licorice 15 g, mung bean 30 g, decoct in water and take in 2 divided doses.
Toxicity
The sap of Rohdea japonica is toxic, generally with the tissue fluid of the stem being the most toxic. Generally, when the sticky liquid gets on the hands or skin, it causes an allergic reaction, with patches or a very itchy sensation, and scratching without paying attention will make it itch more. Note that Rohdea japonica includes those of the genus Dieffenbachia and the genus Aglaonema, and the toxicity of these two varieties is different. If taken into the body as Chinese medicine, about 1 hour after excessive internal use symptoms appear such as nausea and vomiting, headache and dizziness, salivation and loss of appetite, blurred vision and fatigue; in more severe cases, abdominal pain and diarrhea, a sense of pressure in the precordial region, numbness of the limbs, coldness of the extremities, pale skin, blurred vision, slow heartbeat and decreased blood pressure; in severe cases, the patient is restless, with convulsions, coma and dilated pupils, and various arrhythmias may occur, such as premature ventricular beats, atrioventricular block, atrial or ventricular tachycardia, atrioventricular dissociation, atrial fibrillation, or sinus bradycardia, sinoatrial block and junctional rhythm, etc.
Rescue method: For its rescue method and precautions, refer to digitalis.
A potassium salt therapeutic diagnostic test can also be done: take 15-25 ml of 10% potassium chloride solution, add it to 500 ml of 5% glucose solution, and under close observation of the heart, complete the intravenous drip within 2 hours. If the arrhythmia improves, it indicates poisoning by cardiac glycoside-containing drugs.
In addition, Chinese herbal medicine detoxification is as follows:
1. Ginseng 9 g, Ophiopogon 9 g, Schisandra 6 g, decoct twice in water, combine together, and take in 2 divided doses.
2. Licorice 15 g, mung bean 30 g, decoct in water and take in 2 divided doses.
3. Strong tea with an appropriate amount of white sugar, drink frequently.
Landscape uses of Rohdea japonica
Because the leaves of Rohdea japonica are broad and verdant, and the berries are bright red and round, it is very beautiful, and has always been a flower used both for foliage and fruit display.
Its leaf posture is elegant and beautiful, and it is often placed on the long tables of studies and halls, or beneath long scrolls of calligraphy and painting; in autumn and winter, paired with red berries, it adds even more color.
[Other uses] The rhizome and leaves can be used medicinally, see below for details.
[Brief cultivation history and culture] It has a long history of cultivation in China. Because its name and fruit color (red) are auspicious, it has been used through the ages as a symbol of wealth, good fortune, peace and longevity, and is deeply loved by people.
The Qing dynasty work "Hua Jing" records: "People use its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune; when building a house or moving residence, when sending betrothal gifts or managing a pond, when a child is first born, and for all happy events, it is always used."
The flower language of Rohdea japonica
The flower language of Rohdea japonica: health, longevity
Rohdea japonica is suitable for embellishing the living room and study. Decorative application: small potted young plants can be placed on a desk or windowsill for viewing. Medium-sized potted plants can be placed in the corner of the living room or beside the sofa as decoration, filling the room with natural vitality. It is famous for its unique air-purifying ability: it can remove nicotine and formaldehyde. The higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purifying ability!
Cultural background of Rohdea japonica
1. "Hua Jing": Rohdea japonica, also called yun. Broad leaves grow in clusters, dark green, not withering in winter or summer. Many households in Wu plant it, using its flourishing or decline to divine good or ill fortune. When building a house or moving residence, when sending betrothal gifts or managing a tomb, when a child is first born, and for all happy events, it is always used, as an auspicious phrase; as for marriage betrothal gifts, even if the living plant is not taken, silk and satin must be cut and made into its likeness to substitute for it. Together with auspicious grass, scallion and pine, the four items are placed side by side in a pot, which is also a conventional practice. Planting method: at the two equinoxes of spring and autumn, divide and plant in pots, and place in a shaded spot. It is commonly said: the fourteenth day of the fourth month is the birthday of the immortals; the old leaves should be trimmed and thrown onto the thoroughfare for people to tread on, and then the new leaves will certainly grow abundantly. It likes to be mounded with fertile soil, and watered with cold tea.
2. "Gang Mu Shi Yi": Zhejiang wedding ceremonies often use it to accompany gift boxes, taking its year-round evergreen quality, with the meaning of eternal youth. {Note}: The medicinal Rohdea japonica also includes the related plant Rohdea japonica (Thunb.) Roth var. variegata Hort. of the same genus, mostly cultivated.
Film-related
"Leon: The Professional", as a film related to darkness and violence, has received continuous praise and controversy since its release. Amid the dark and violent subject matter and scenes, this pot of Rohdea japonica (Aglaonema 'Silver Queen') plays an important role in diluting the violence and making the visuals and even the content harmonious.
It is not hard to find that Leon, even though he wanders everywhere and is a fugitive, carries this Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' with him, and always likes to put it on the balcony after dawn and take it back after dusk. He regards the Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' as his best friend, carefully watering it and wiping the dust off its leaves, which more subtly expresses the other, serious side of Leon as a killer - not lacking in love. And this better neutralizes the two elements of violence and love.
At the end, the female protagonist Mathilda takes Leon's pot of Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' out of the pot and plants it in a place that looks warm with sunlight and harmonious among people. When Mathilda plants the flower, she does not shed tears, nor does she fully express the feeling of losing Leon. She only says to herself toward Leon's potted plant: I think we'll be okay here... Accompanied by positive emotions, this once again pushes the film to a moving climax.
The role and uses of Rohdea japonica: feng shui effect
Rohdea japonica can remove harmful substances such as nicotine and formaldehyde. Keeping Rohdea japonica will create a perfect living space for the living environment. From the perspective of feng shui, keeping Rohdea japonica can make people healthy, energetic and vigorous, far from illness, injury and disaster, and make the family happy and auspicious and the couple loving and harmonious. To make good use of the feng shui effect of Rohdea japonica, note that it should be placed in the bedroom; this helps the owner establish a feng shui home and is conducive to the development of the couple's relationship. Generally speaking, people born in the Year of the Rabbit and the Year of the Tiger are suitable for growing woody plants, and Rohdea japonica is the best choice.
Pictures of Rohdea japonica