Lotus Planting Methods and Common Diseases Explained
Some friends have a large space at home and even their own garden, which makes it very suitable for growing some larger plants. Although lotus does not take up much space, it still needs a certain amount of room to grow. If you grow your lotus well, you can enjoy the lotus flowers without leaving home, which is also one of life's pleasures.
Lotus (details)
Lotus must be placed in a spot with plenty of sunlight and good ventilation, and the water in the pot must be kept from drying out; by late June it can bloom. In late July the underground lotus rhizome nodes begin to swell, and at this point the water can be shallower. Normally the pot must never be without water, otherwise the leaves will quickly dry up. Whether lotus needs fertilizing can be judged by leaf color: if the leaves are deep green, it means nutrients are sufficient; if the leaf surface turns yellow and the plant is thin and haggard, it should be fertilized. Quick-acting urea and compound fertilizer, as well as slow-release animal offal and cake fertilizer, are all fine.
During the growing season, lotus is often harmed by aphids. You can add 20 mg of 3% carbofuran to the pot, and putting crushed garlic bulbs in the pot also has a controlling effect. From June to September, there will also be the leaf-eating pest known as the cotton leafworm (Spodoptera litura), which can be killed by spraying omethoate.
When planting in a pot or vat, choose a watertight container about 50 cm in diameter and no less than 20 cm deep. The potting soil should preferably be fertile and clayey soil, such as pond mud, paddy field soil, and sludge from domestic sewage ditches; the latter in particular is generally very fertile, so no further fertilizing is needed afterward. For not-so-fertile paddy field soil, a small amount of organic fertilizer such as chicken manure or soybean cake can be buried at the bottom of the pot.
Half a year after moving to Yunnan, my succulent garden has already begun all kinds of big autumn harvests.
Haha, here I am again... It is already Mid-Autumn now, and in the blink of an eye it has been half a year since I moved to Yunnan... One spring and one summer have passed, how are everyone's succulents doing... My garden has already begun all kinds of big reorganizing.
This year, moving to Yunnan coincided with a rare rainy year in Kunming, and it is still drizzling every day even now.... My succulents have been soaked in rainwater almost the entire summer, and the soil and rosettes have hardly ever dried out.....
But my wild succulents are still surviving very tenaciously and have all taken on a completely new look...Day after day enduring wind and rain, scorching sun, pecking by wild birds, trampling by stray cats.....They use their tenacious lives to interpret the charm of plants. It makes one marvel..... Alright, that is enough for the preface; now let's get to the main topic of this article. Since sharing the first migration post, I have received the attention and support of quite a few succulent friends, and because of this I have also gotten to know a great many new friends. Thank you all so much here! Of course, along with that came a great many questions from everyone... Perhaps because of my personal succulent-growing style and personality, I answered many questions rather simply, and so I did not give everyone a very complete share... Recently I summarized all of everyone's questions, and here I will share all of my succulent-growing experience.
First, let me introduce myself: My name is Eve (translation: not Eve the biblical one... it's "eve" as in the day before, ok!). Profession: pet grooming instructor. (Part-time graphic editor, sculptor, coach, designer, photographer, graphic artist... anyway, all kinds of things, understand it however you like.) It has been nearly 6 years since I fell into the succulent pit (for details, see the previous memoir). Growing method: natural wild growing (equivalent to a free-range style). I like to let succulents return to all kinds of natural forms (for example, something succulent friends often ask about: how come the succulents at my home are as big as a washbasin...).
Alright, indeed all the succulents I grow are this Size... First let me talk about my views. My initial understanding of succulents and my views on growing them came from Europe (because most succulents grow and are propagated in Europe). I like succulents because they are one of the more tenacious types in the plant kingdom, able to adapt to all kinds of harsh environments, and they can change in a thousand ways in order to adapt to the environment! I am especially fond of the Echeveria genus; the rosette-like arrangement of their leaves makes one feel that they are a flower that never withers. Personally, I think plants are born in nature and should also return to nature, and should freely enjoy the purification of nature's raindrops, the illumination of the scorching sun, and the baptism of fierce winds... Only in this way can their tenacious nature bloom to the fullest and their lives become more meaningful! Whether it is death or rebirth, whether it is struggle or steadfastness, this is all part of what they experience. I would rather they take root in ruins overgrown with weeds than huddle in an exquisite vase! I am willing to spend time and thought finding a place, hammering and nailing to create an open-air environment for them so they can see light and get rained on and endure all kinds of trials in the wild day and night as they grow, but I am not willing to spend money and time buying nets, medicines, and all kinds of props to shelter them from wind and rain, so three illnesses and two aches and daily all kinds of fussing.... I appreciate the various forms they take as they change with the environment: green or red, slender and sparse, or round and plump, all of this is them growing naturally, and as long as they are alive, any way is fine... But I do not appreciate them being controlled this way and that by me and deliberately turned into some certain form; I would feel that that is not their true nature, and is even torturing their life and testing their limits. So I advocate a way of growing - wild growing! It really is, as everyone understands it, just giving them enough space to fend for themselves, and no matter whether it is wind and rain, direct scorching sun, or pest invasion, not making a big fuss.
Alright, I have rambled on a lot. Let's systematically talk about cultivation - "cultivation" as in wild growing and propagation, not raising and careful nursing. Hahaha~~~ First let's talk about the environment. The environment for succulents and the growing method are relative; the environment determines the corresponding growing method. Usually environments include balconies, glass houses, windowsills, full terraces and half terraces, fields, and so on, which then give rise to several categories: greenhouse growing, open growing, and wild growing (I have experienced all of the above over the years).
1. Glass houses and windowsills cannot let succulents come into direct contact with rainwater and the purest sunlight, so the succulents will lack many naturally produced elements, and therefore require a great deal of artificial supplementation and intervention.
2. In environments such as terraces and half terraces, succulents can come into contact with varying amounts of natural rainwater and sunlight, so they will also require varying amounts of supplementation and artificial intervention.
3. In the wild and fully open-air environments, succulents can receive everything most natural. So intervention is basically 0 (with wind and rain battering them, there is nothing you can do even if you want to). The only thing you can do is let them slowly adapt, hahaha~~~
Let's continue... Next is flower vessels... Many succulent friends always ask, is a plastic pot good, or a ceramic pot good, is a porcelain pot good or a thumb pot good... Is big good or is small good... What color is good..... Alright, anyway it is all kinds of agonizing, all kinds of experimenting... The succulents get tossed back and forth half to death because of the owner's doubts....
Let's continue. Next is flower vessels. Many succulent friends always ask: Is a plastic pot good or a ceramic pot good? Is a porcelain pot good or a thumb pot good? Is big good or is small good? What color is good?... Alright, anyway it is all kinds of agonizing, all kinds of experimenting... The succulents get tossed back and forth half to death because of the owner's doubts...
Let me talk about flower vessels based on personal experience. Actually, as long as it is a pot that leaks water, it is fine; as for which pot is best, that depends on your environment and your growing method. The best one is the one that suits this variety and best suits your environment and growing method. Every kind of pot has its own properties and its own pros and cons; the key is matching (for example, when a plastic pot is used correctly it is soft, easy to loosen soil, and retains moisture; used poorly it is not breathable and stuffy. As for the properties of each kind of pot, slowly consult Baidu and think about it yourself). Some people can use a small square pot to grow plump, beautiful large succulents (although the space given is not large, the artificial supplementation of nutrients is enough), while others use an exquisite, gaudy porcelain pot but only produce a dim, dried-out, skinny one (do you think the succulent will be beautiful just because the flower pot is beautiful? What the succulent cares about is the contents of the pot). So the container itself is not the point! The point is to choose the right pot for the right growing method in the right environment! And my growing method is: first, as big as possible! The bigger the better! Best of all, plant them all in the ground! (I am truly lazy, with no energy to give each one nutritional supplementation; the more soil, the more nutrients.) Second, the color is mostly light colors (out in the wind and sun, dark colors absorb heat; succulent rosettes like to be sunned, but the roots do not).
Alright, next is soil mixing.
There are always many succulent friends who ask what soil mix is best, whether granular material is good or peat is good, whether this formula is good or that formula is good, and whenever they see someone they ask whether mixing it this way is okay, why the succulents I mix this way always fail to grow to the look I expect, and how exactly should I mix it... Alright, asking anyone about this is useless, and no one can give you an absolute answer, because other people's growing methods, habits, and environments may all be different from yours. Many persistent succulent friends must have experienced this: hearing about some formula, excitedly carrying all kinds of soil home. Then waiting until the next season and disappointedly throwing it all away, continuing to switch... (Especially succulent friends living on high floors without elevators, aren't you all carrying things up and down, hahaha.) Alright, no more gloating. To be honest, there is never a best soil mix, only the most suitable soil mix! Growing succulents is like doing an arithmetic problem: what kind of environment paired with what kind of soil, then paired with a suitable container and planted with suitable succulents, is the correct answer! Nowadays the main internationally used soil materials are generally growing media: peat, leaf mold, sphagnum moss, coconut coir, and the like; next are perlite, vermiculite, and the like; then there are the granular materials succulents must have: akadama, diatomaceous earth, pumice, volcanic rock, and various powdered materials. These three links make up the soil mix, and what people agonize over is only the ratio. Similar problems to those with pots come up again. Every kind of soil has its own properties and functions (consult Baidu for each; if I wrote them all out my fingers would probably be ruined). The main material provides basic nutrition, the auxiliary materials change the soil's moisture, looseness, and a small amount of trace elements, and the granular materials provide what succulents specifically need (such as soil pH and the like). You must match them according to your growing environment, the size of your flower vessel, and the characteristics of the succulent you want to plant. For example, if the pot is small, peat can be a bit more (to ensure enough nutrition; if it were all granular material, you would probably have to soak the pot in nutrient solution every day for it to survive). For example, if your home is stuffy and not very ventilated, you can choose a slightly larger flower pot and a correspondingly appropriate ratio of granular material. Understand the rest yourself. I suggest everyone stop asking for formulas whenever they see someone, and sit down quietly and think about what kind of environment your succulents are in and what kind of soil they need...
Alright, so far so good. I estimate many people are still thinking, what soil exactly do my succulents use, and why do they all grow like cabbages... Alright, stop agonizing, let me sum up the previous points. My succulents have enough space, sufficient natural elements, comfortable soil, and enough fertilizer to fill their bellies. That is how they grew into the appearance they should have had. Many succulents are actually not as small as you imagine. Especially the Echeveria type.
Next let's continue with the fertilizer issue. The approximate components of the fertilizer plants need are all similar; only the fertilizing methods differ. And these methods also give rise to many kinds of fertilizer (slow-release, liquid, organic, and the like). It is still that same saying: according to the environment you grow in, the method you use, and the type you grow, use different fertilizers. The timing and amount of fertilizing are the same. Small pots, fertilize frequently, a little each time. Large pots, use slow-release, apply controlled amounts. In the ground, irrigate with all kinds of organic fertilizer. Still that key point: studying properties and matching them is the kingly way; growing anything is the same. The most suitable is the best. What you are growing is a life, with too many uncertain factors, and relative factors are very important! As for me, I am generally too lazy to ever fertilize, hahaha, because acidic rainwater can stimulate the soil to supply succulents with enough nutrition. Generally when the time comes I just replace all the soil.
Alright, next is the watering issue. Actually this issue is very obviously the artificial supplementation I repeatedly mentioned earlier. I believe many friends have also read many professional articles by great masters. Since succulent culture developed in China up to now, no grower would be foolish enough to think that watering more will make succulents plump and beautiful. If your succulents can drink natural rainwater, then try your best not to irrigate with tap water (you all know what is in tap water). If your succulents can retain enough moisture, then avoid watering if you can (this refers to situations with large pots, fertile soil, and the succulent itself being relatively robust). The above is my growing method, and I do not suggest everyone try it directly. First let me explain why it is like this. First, natural rainwater is more complex than everyone imagines, and basically all plants need it; second, the watering method of getting rained on is a kind of purification for both the soil and the succulents. Especially heavy rain (artificial watering cannot achieve using raindrops to strike the soil surface for hours); third, rainwater comes from nature, and plants have an innate sensitivity to nature; before it is going to rain they have already made all kinds of preparations to welcome it. So, having said all this, why do I not suggest everyone try it directly? Because suddenly doing so can easily send your succulents to the afterlife... (Everything needs adaptation; if your succulents have always been delicate and beautiful in a greenhouse, a sudden change would be unbearable even for a person, let alone a plant.) If you want to try, I suggest having a slow, good adaptation process. If you are still watering artificially, I suggest adding a little of the nutrients plants need to the water, and choosing a watering method suitable for your environment. The amount of water should also be based on the pot size and the needs of the succulents. Diligent little ones, slowly work hard to study the watering method that belongs to your succulents, because this is a technical job. Anyway, I have already gotten so lazy that I have not watered my succulents for several years.
Let's move to the next section and continue with "Cleaning succulents, pest protection, and disease prevention and treatment." Many succulent friends ask what to do when their succulents get bugs. My God, hurry and spray medicine! What medicine to use? I would ask back, what bug is it, then use what medicine!!!! Alright, my replies are indeed rough and simple and a bit provocative. But the facts are indeed like this. First you have to calm down! Calm down! Observe and confirm, then seek help and prescribe the right medicine. Pest problems are common. If the succulents cannot come into contact with nature, then artificial medicine is definitely needed. If the succulents contract a disease because they lack something, then the corresponding thing also needs to be replenished in time. The most common pests on succulents (everyone should know the white, plump mealybugs in clusters, the little black fungus gnats that crawl everywhere, and the red spiders that bounce around everywhere). Actually, as long as you use medicine containing phosphorus, they can all be easily killed, but organic ones are not recommended, because they will damage the sunscreen powder layer on the succulents' faces and cause disfigurement and sunburn. There is a miraculous product everyone should know, "Huhuashen". Mix with water and directly pour it through the whole thing from the top without thinking (provided your succulents can tolerate the humidity); in serious cases it needs to be done multiple times... In even more serious cases, directly pull them out of the soil and soak them...
And the various diseases are generally caused by a lack of some element. Many plant medicines are supplementary, for example the commonly used "Dyson zinc" supplements zinc, and various preparations also supplement the corresponding elements. Through this principle we should know that the principles of plants getting sick and us getting sick are not quite the same. Moreover, many diseases cause immediate death, or the plant can only survive through amputation. So rather than treating disease to save succulents, it is better to directly give them all the elements they need to strengthen their own resistance and fend off disease! Combining the earlier points about pots, soil, environment, and growing method, everyone should be able to thoroughly understand how to give succulents everything they need! Hahaha~~~
Regarding cleaning, many succulent friends' questions are as follows: Should dried old leaves be pulled off, should dust and water droplets on the rosette surface be cleaned... Uh, this question, I can only say it depends on the individual situation. Friends with cleanliness obsessions or OCD will probably be unable to control their hands even if ten million people tell them not to touch it, hahaha. Specifically, it is still that saying: go by your individual growing method and environment. If there is water in the center of the rosette and then it gets direct sunlight, succulents with weaker resistance will get scorched. If old leaves are not cleaned and remain damp and stuffy for a long time, pests are easily bred. If the dust layer is too thick, it easily damages the functionality of the leaf surface. It is actually that simple!
Alright, having summed up so much, next let me talk about my growing method in this regard. Actually I do nothing at all, hahahahaha~ Do not hit me, the facts are so! Everyone remember the Dudleya covered in spider webs in the picture above? That's right, in a certain season my whole garden has this special effect: fungus gnats running all over the ground, mealybugs clustering everywhere, red spiders bouncing around, and spider webs hanging all over the succulents' heads... But not a single one of my succulents died from pests; at most a few leaves were sacrificed. If the situation is really too bad, I will choose to release several dozen beetles or introduce other beneficial insects into my garden. This kind of ecosystem where one thing checks another is more natural, hahaha (in wild growing like this, spraying any medicine is useless; with rain every few days, spraying is wasted effort). Then I never water, and I rarely pull off old leaves; it is all God helping me do this work, because I am truly lazy to the point of oozing oil... I also do not give the succulents supplementary medicines of any kind, because everything the natural ecology gives is basically enough... This is my wild-growing style...
So all my succulents carry wounds and hang on to old leaves, dying and coming back to life, growing painfully and happily...I forgot to mention a very important issue, about buying succulents. This is very important, because it determines how you should grow it and how to grow it into the appearance you expect. Succulents on the market now fall into four categories: European goods, Korean goods, Japanese goods, and domestic goods. First let me talk about European goods: Europeans grow plants following a technological route, and their greenhouses are all fully electronically controlled, so the output and efficiency are quite frightening. And the most amazing thing is that within the same batch of plants there is actually no difference in size or form. So European goods basically face the whole world as one-grade price for one-grade product. Very commercial and also very professional. As for European goods themselves, all aspects are relatively balanced (plant resistance, plant price, and the like). Next is Korean goods: Korean succulents have a very distinctive style of their own, because their growing methods and their mentality toward growing succulents are completely different from Europeans'. Usually Koreans like uniquely shaped old clusters or rare mutated individuals. That also means they used a great many unique techniques to get the plants to achieve the desired effect. More effort naturally means a higher price. Next is Japanese goods: Japanese succulents are mainly Haworthia. Well, it cannot be denied that this is something ordinary people cannot afford to play with. The Japanese love to mess with all kinds of genetics, researching and pursuing the ultimate. Finally there are our local domestic goods: since succulent culture developed in China up to now, our country's cultivation techniques are still very impressive (after all, China is also one of the world's famous major plant countries). Domestic goods are low in price and basically complete in varieties. But the frightening thing is there are always some bored vendors who like to do things to make the succulents more marketable. As for the price of buying succulents, I think, as long as you like it, it is fine. To put it bluntly about buying succulents, whether you spend 5 yuan or 50 yuan it is all a waste, because it cannot be eaten, cannot be played with, cannot be worn; it is only a kind of companionship, just making you happy. So personally I think as long as you like it that is fine; there is no need to agonize too much over whether it is expensive or cheap, worth it or not. Every life is unique, and at the same price you cannot buy a second identical one. So if you bought it, you bought it; if you raised it, you raised it, hahaha.
Regarding the four categories of goods, based on personal experience let me give everyone some suggestions and directions. First European goods: the first thing to do when you get one is change the soil and wash the roots, because they are basically pure peat. Away from the European electronic greenhouses, using this kind of soil will cause a lot of discomfort, so dry them thoroughly before planting. European goods are relatively tough and can basically be grown fully in the open (more than half of mine are basically European goods). European goods have primitive provenance; give them the corresponding space, and they can grow bigger than you imagine...
Korean goods: before buying all kinds of Korean goods at high prices, please do not get excited. Calmly understand their succulent culture first, then consider whether you want to grow them. Koreans have their own system whether it comes to soil mixing, flower vessels, fertilizer, or growing methods. I suggest reading through all kinds of Korean posts thoroughly before considering whether it suits you and whether you want to grow them this way. If you ask me, the best is to go to Korea yourself, find an old lady on a rooftop, brew a pot of tea, and chat with her for a few days, hahahaha.
Japanese goods: can I omit them... Because the thinking of that country is truly a realm ordinary people cannot reach. Think about it, to eat a cow they even massage that cow every day... My God, who knows what they do to succulents in laboratories in order to appreciate a lump of succulent. You all think about how those mythical Haworthia come to be.
Domestic goods: first, do not consider domestic goods of the various variegated types, you know what I mean. No matter how much a succulent mutates, the variegation cannot possibly be all white! Second, study and comprehend more yourself. If you have experience, domestic goods are the best choice. First, they have already adapted to the local environment; second, they skip the import and export procedures and the price is low; third, the varieties are mostly some classic varieties that are easy to grow and also beautiful.
Alright, another pile of introductions that never ends.. The teacher's occupational disease kicked in...
Let me talk about how I buy succulents. Usually when I buy succulents I ignore where the goods come from and what condition they are in. Because I am a variety-collecting addict, especially for Echeveria. When buying succulents I will target a certain variety and buy ten or twenty of them at once. Then after planting them well I move them from half shade to half sun, and finally throw them in the garden and ignore them for several months. Hahaha~~~ Why? Because they may previously have come from all kinds of greenhouses, and their resistance and adaptability all differ. In the process of me letting them gradually adapt, many will be eliminated. From this batch of survivors I will select the most tenacious ones and finally put them in the ground, turning them into wild succulents... Just like those succulents planted in green belts in Europe and America. Then what should I do with the equally tenacious succulents from the same batch? Very simple, directly pass them on to other succulent friends, hahaha, pulling more people into the pit! So every year in spring and autumn I regularly put out many succulents (there is no way around it; if I do not pull others into the pit, where would I get more space and money to keep more varieties of succulents). Those succulent friends who say I pulled them into the pit, stop cursing me for pulling you in; I am helpless too, hahaha~~~ Who told us all to have dreams.
Another source of my succulents is the various offspring of my own succulents. No matter what you grow, propagation is an indispensable link, especially for plants. They entrust all their memories and fate to the next generation, letting their children live more tenaciously. I roughly harvest seeds at the end of each summer, sow in early autumn, and release them the following year. Hahaha.
I once tried artificial pollination and the like, but now I am so lazy that I let insects do it; I just calculate the timing and go cut the flower stalks. First let me talk about the benefits of pollination and sowing. The next generation of pollinated succulents of the same variety will be better adapted to the local climate, because everything their parents experienced is stored in their genes. And the way plants teach the next generation is by passing on their precious memories of time through genes. Mixed-blood varieties, on the other hand, tend to be extreme: either very tough or dying young. In the aspect of propagating succulents there are a few points to note: the mother plant with the highest pollination success rate must itself also be grown from seed. Plants reproduced through cuttings and leaf propagation have an extremely low pollination success rate and can even be completely understood as castrated plants. Succulents cycled through leaf propagation and cuttings will have weaker resistance and adaptability with each generation. So this is the reason why seed-grown succulents are expensive. Succulent propagation in China currently mainly relies on leaf propagation and cuttings. You know what I mean.
As a grower who truly loves succulents, I think we all have an obligation to let our children live on tenaciously....
Second, the process of succulents flowering and propagating is very dangerous. Everyone knows that animals in nature will fight to the death for mating, and mothers will even sacrifice themselves to protect their children; plants are the same. Succulents mostly choose to bloom in summer. To be honest, they are very unwise, but they also have no choice. Blooming consumes a large amount of the plant's energy, so their resistance becomes weakened, and at the same time the nectar also easily attracts all kinds of pests. So this process may torment your heart greatly, because basically after one summer, when I harvest seeds from all my naturally pollinated succulents, the mother plants are basically unrecognizable... Sigh, many have even been completely used up, withered until only a single flower stalk remains swaying in the wind... (so bleak).
This is a process, and I must accept it. Just like all kinds of cruelty in nature seen in various documentaries, no matter how much you want to intervene, you cannot do it. I often go into the garden and see many succulents suddenly looking desolate, but I will not interfere, because it is very likely still alive. I believe many succulent friends have witnessed such miracles: blackened until only a single stem remains, and then reborn the following year... Yes, succulents have this ability, as long as you believe! Hahaha, because my dead succulents either wither in the soil and turn into fertilizer, or use side shoots to revive from the corpse, especially when summer passes and autumn arrives. So generally when I see succulents with black rot and the like I will start singing that song "Ye Zi"...
Finally, a few words to sum up. This summer has passed. In autumn I harvested two trays of mixed-blood seeds that have already sprouted. I harvested a whole ground of succulents with Yunnan faces. Hahaha, I basically do not recognize them.
Regarding my growing, it actually could not be simpler. First, I do not water; second, I do not remove pests; third, I do not let the succulents avoid rain or light; fourth, no matter what happens I just watch from the side... The things I do are only three: plant flowers, look at flowers, and deliver flowers to continue their next generation, hahaha~~~ Because when I first learned about succulents I saw a headline "lazy person's plant," hahaha. I hope in the future I can be even lazier...
I dream that in the future I can have a succulent in-ground garden! To see them living freely in the wild, returning to their most primitive appearance. I want to see their true selves. Natural propagation, generation after generation... haha.
I wonder what everyone's dream about succulents is?
No matter what, I think if you have fallen in love with such a tenacious life, you should be as tenacious as it is! Persist!
Succulents are the tenacious spirits of nature! They do not have bright flowers, but they have a face that can change. They change with the environment, and they change with their owner. Please choose everything that suits them and treat them well. Let them live on. Let this beautiful scenery continue...
If you love them, please love all of them, no matter what color they are, what shape, what condition... Do not be too demanding just for one certain state of theirs. Many things are relative; you grow them, but they do not completely belong to you.
You can decide everything about them, but that does not mean you can control everything about them...Growing a life is a kind of companionship, making you happy and joyful. Do not be full of complaints because of growing them, and do not complain that the climate of your region is not good enough. Because everywhere has four seasons, and where people can live, succulents can live. The key is that you have to find the right method. Also do not keep saying things like I am being sarcastic and stirring up resentment. I truly do not mean that. I have grown succulents in many places, and in all of them succulents have died, and in all of them I have also grown succulents well. Yunnan's climate, in terms of data, is relatively suitable for succulents. But everything has two sides; friends who have read the previous two posts should also know this process. Also do not ask again where those towering big succulents at my home went; they have long since ceased to exist... Because they could only exist in that Shenzhen environment; after they came to Yunnan their volume directly shrank by more than half, and their color also underwent enormous changes, and all traces of the past have long since vanished.
My method of growing succulents is only based on so many years of experience and summing up. If everyone likes it, you can also try it. Hahaha (if they die do not blame me). Whether it is in Sanya, on the sea, in Shenzhen, or in Shanghai, I have always grown them this way in the wild. Because I am lazy, wahahaha~~~
No matter what, although moving to Yunnan for work has not gone smoothly and life has been difficult in all kinds of ways, I have never regretted it. Who is not risking their life for a dream. As long as I am still alive, Eve's Garden will always be there! Hahaha! Although this garden often moves, maybe in the future it can be renamed the Wandering Little Garden. But I believe that one day my dream will come true. Eve's Garden also welcomes everyone at any time to come exchange ideas and visit. Through this migration record I have gotten to know many succulent friends; thank you very much for your support. If nothing goes wrong, I will strive next month to sort out the photo materials and write out the process of changes in the elder succulents that have followed me to many places, and of course also share my succulent photography experience, hahaha~~~
Author: Eve Editor: Succulent Base Camp
Camphor tree Cinnamomum camphora (L.) Presl Camphor tree guide: How to grow camphor tree / How to propagate camphor tree
Camphor tree profileCamphor tree Cinnamomum camphora (L.) Presl
Camphor tree growing methods and precautions Camphor tree introduction
Camphor tree is a representative tree species of subtropical evergreen broad-leaved forest, and an important timber and special economic tree species in subtropical regions (southwest regions),
Evergreen tree. Leaves alternate, ovate, shiny above, slightly grayish white below, with three basal veins, and glands in the vein axils. Blooms in early summer, flowers small, yellow-green, in panicles. Drupe small and spherical, purplish black, with a cup-shaped fruit receptacle at the base. Widely distributed throughout areas south of the Yangtze River in China, with the most in Taiwan, China. The entire plant has the aroma of camphor, and camphor and camphor oil can be extracted from it. The wood is hard and beautiful, suitable for making furniture and boxes, and it is also used as a landscaping tree and street tree. Because the whole plant gives off the unique fresh fragrance of camphor, it is often called Xiangzhang among the people. In some areas, the camphor tree is even associated with gods and ghosts, so among the people, long-grown camphor trees are generally not cut down.
Morphological characteristics of camphor tree
Camphor tree is an evergreen arbor belonging to the Lauraceae family. It can live for hundreds to thousands of years, and can be called a towering ancient tree, making it an excellent landscaping tree. The bark is green and smooth when young; when old it gradually becomes yellow-brown or gray-brown and longitudinally fissured. Winter buds are ovate. Leaves thinly leathery, ovate or elliptic-ovate, 5-10 cm long, 3.5-5.5 cm wide, apex shortly acute or nearly caudate, base rounded, with 3 basal veins, the first or second pair of lateral veins near the leaf base long and prominent, the underside slightly covered with white powder, and glandular dots in the vein axils. Flowers yellow-green, blooming in spring, in axillary panicles, both small and numerous. The small spherical fruit turns blackish purple when mature, about 0.5 cm in diameter; flowering period April-May, fruiting period August-November.
The gray-brown bark has fine deep longitudinal fissure patterns. The entire camphor tree has a fresh camphor-like fragrance, can repel insects, and will never disappear. Leaves alternate, papery or thinly leathery, the trunk with obvious longitudinal cracking, extremely easy to identify. It is said that because the camphor wood has many grain patterns, as if there is a great article in it, a wood radical was added beside the character "Zhang" to serve as the tree's name. Camphor tree has a wide range of uses and high economic value, and is deeply favored everywhere.
Camphor tree is an evergreen arbor. Its being evergreen does not mean it never sheds leaves; rather, after the new leaves grow in spring, the old leaves begin to fall, so it presents a scene of lush greenery all year round... The small flowers of the camphor tree are very unique; the flowers, whose calyx or petals are hard to distinguish on the outside, have 6 pieces, and the central part has 9 stamens, every 3 arranged in 1 whorl.
Ecological habits of camphor tree
Camphor tree likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant; it likes warm and humid climates, and its cold tolerance is not strong. It is not strict about soil requirements and is relatively tolerant of waterlogging, but when transplanting, care must be taken to maintain soil moisture; waterlogging easily leads to root rot and death from lack of oxygen, but it is not tolerant of drought, barrenness, or saline-alkaline soil. The main root is developed and deep-rooted, and it can resist wind. It has strong sprouting ability and is tolerant of pruning. Its growth speed is medium, its tree shape is huge like an umbrella, and it can provide shade and coolness. Its lifespan is long, and it can grow into a towering ancient tree hundreds to thousands of years old. It has a strong ability to absorb smoke and retain dust, conserve water sources, fix soil and prevent sand, and beautify the environment. In addition, it is resistant to sea tide winds and tolerant of smoke and dust, and resistant to toxic gases, and can absorb many kinds of toxic gases, making it relatively able to adapt to urban environments.
[Adaptable altitude for Xiangzhang]: below 1800m
[Absolute minimum temperature]: -10.00°C
[Light response]: likes light
[Water response]: likes moisture
[Adaptability to special soil conditions]: not tolerant of barrenness and saline-alkaline; slightly acidic soil is best
[Types of air pollution tolerated]: many
[Terrain conditions]: hills, plains
[Soil type]: clayey soil
[Tree species distribution area]: Zhejiang, Fujian, Jiangxi, Taiwan, China, Hubei, Hunan, Guangdong, Yunnan, Jiangsu, Anhui
[Flowering period]: first time April to May, blooms in early summer, yellow-green, in panicles
[Fruiting period]: first time August to November
[Tree height]: can reach 50 m
[Annual tree height growth]: 100 cm
[Annual DBH growth]: 2.40 cm
[Propagation method]: seed propagation.
The tree age can reach more than 500 years, and it is a common plant.
Distribution area of camphor tree
It mainly grows on fertile sunny slopes, valleys, and flat riverside land in subtropical zones; it is distributed south of the Yangtze River and in the southwest, and its growing areas can reach an altitude of 1000M, with the largest growing area especially in the Yibin region of Sichuan Province. In 2006, the camphor tree was chosen as the "city tree" of Yibin City, enjoys the reputation of Yibin City's "city tree," and has become the main forest tree in the Yibin region. Under the vigorous advocacy of the government, a large number of artificial camphor tree plantations have formed in the Yibin region, among which the Gangping Forest Farm in Yibin County has been the most successful in management and development, making great contributions to beautifying the natural environment and increasing people's economic income! With the application of Xiangzhang trees in urban construction. The main breeding and propagation bases include Shuyang, Jiangsu [3], Zhejiang, Anhui, and other places.
Medicinal or dietary therapeutic value of camphor tree
The medical information and health dietary information on Huhuawang are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. For any health problem, consult professional medical personnel, and for the treatment of any disease, please follow doctor's orders.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: To love yourself, start from reality and strictly follow doctor's orders. Toward illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope; face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
Fruit effects
[Source]: It is the fruit of the Lauraceae plant Sassafras albidum; for the plant morphology see the Xiangzhang entry.
[Collection]: Collected in autumn, dried in the shade.
[Nature and flavor]: Slightly pungent, warm.
[Functions and indications]: Relieves the exterior and reduces fever. Treats high fever and cold, measles, whooping cough, and dysentery.
[Selected formulas]:
1. To treat high fever and cold, measles: one to two Xiangzhang fruits. Grind into powder and take with boiled water.
2. To treat whooping cough and dysentery: 10 grams of Xiangzhang fruit, 10 grams of eucalyptus leaves, decoct in water and take.
Tree root effects
[Alternative names]: Xiangtong, Zoumatail, camphor tree root, Tu chenxiang, Shan chenxiang.
[Source]: It is the tree root of the Lauraceae plant camphor.
[Collection]: Dug up between February and April. Washed clean, sliced, and dried in the sun.
[Medicinal material]: It is a round slice cut crosswise or obliquely, 4-10 cm in diameter and 2-5 mm thick. Hard in texture, with a camphor odor. Those with large, uniform slices, yellow-white color, and a strong fragrant odor are considered better. Produced in Jiangxi, Sichuan, Guizhou, Guangdong, Hunan, and other places.
[Nature and flavor]: "Classification of Herbal Properties": Pungent, non-toxic.
[Functions and indications - effects of Xiangzhang root]: Regulates qi and invigorates blood, removes wind-dampness. Treats vomiting and diarrhea, abdominal distension and pain, wind-dampness arthralgia pain, traumatic injuries, and scabies with itching.
① "Classification of Herbal Properties": Treats all qi pain, regulates obstruction, smooths qi, and also cholera vomiting.
② "Guizhou Folk Prescriptions Collection": Treats wind-dampness pain and traumatic injuries.
③ "Guiyang Folk Herbs": Regulates qi, promotes blood circulation, and strengthens the stomach. Treats stomach disease, muscle and bone pain, body odor, and foot sweat.
④ "Sichuan Traditional Chinese Medicine Records": Wards off evil, removes wind-dampness. Treats cholera abdominal distension, undigested retained food, wind-dampness arthralgia pain of the hands and feet, and scabies with itching.
⑤ "Hunan Materia Medica Records": Releases the exterior, disperses cold, promotes qi movement, invigorates blood, reduces swelling, and relieves pain.
[Usage and dosage]: Internal use: decoct in water, 20-30 grams; or steep in wine. External use: decoct in water and wash.
[Selected formulas]:
① To treat gas distension and gas pain: 25 grams of Xiangzhang root powder. Boil with sweet wine and eat.
② To treat wind-dampness, traumatic injuries, and muscle and bone pain: 25 grams of Xiangzhang root, 25 grams of Tie kuaizi, 25 grams of Bai longxu, 25 grams of Yan chuanxiong (50 grams each if fresh). Steep in wine and drink, once in the morning and once in the evening, each time taking five qian of wine.
③ To treat wind-dampness pain: decoct Xiangzhang root in water for external washing.
④ To treat facial paralysis: 100 grams of fresh Xiangzhang root, 25 grams of maple tree root bark. Mix and pound into a paste, apply externally (if crooked to the left, apply to the right; if crooked to the right, apply to the left).
⑤ To treat body odor: make Xiangzhang root into a fine powder, add cooked rice and mix into a ball, and rub under the armpits.
⑥ To treat foot sweat: pound fresh Xiangzhang root bark into a paste and wrap the soles of the feet overnight.
⑦ To treat toothache from worms: add a little table salt to camphor root white bark, pound into a paste, and apply to the painful area.
Medicinal material value
[Medicinal name] Camphor wood
[Aliases] Zhangcai (Bencao Shiyi), Xiangzhangmu (Medicinal Materials Compilation), Chuifengsan (Guangxi Traditional Chinese Medicine Records).
[Medicinal source] The wood of the camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), a plant of the Lauraceae family. The trunk is usually cut in winter, sawn into sections, split into small pieces and dried in the sun.
[Characters] Irregularly shaped pieces of wood, reddish-brown to dark brown on the outside, with annual rings visible on the cross-section, heavy and hard in texture, with a strong camphor aroma and a cooling sensation when tasted. Those that are large, intact and strongly aromatic are considered the best. Abundantly produced along the coastal areas of China, and also found in Guangxi, Jiangxi, Fujian, Taiwan, China, Hunan, Hubei, Sichuan, Yunnan and other places, with Taiwan, China having the largest output. In the Sichuan region there is a product made from this material as ship bottom boards, which after years of water soaking and rotting are taken out for medicinal use, called "Jiachenxiang".
[Nature and flavor] Pungent, warm.
① Bencao Shiyi: "Pungent in taste, warm, non-toxic."
② Bencao Zaixin: "Bitter in taste, warm in nature, non-toxic."
③ Guangxi Traditional Chinese Medicine Records: "Pungent in taste, warm in nature, slightly toxic."
[Meridian entry] Bencao Zaixin: "Enters the three meridians of liver, spleen and lung."
[Functions and indications] Dispel wind-dampness, move qi and blood, benefit the joints. Treats distending pain of the heart and abdomen, beriberi, gout, scabies and tinea, and traumatic injuries.
① Bencao Shiyi: "Mainly treats heart and abdominal pain, cholera, abdominal distension, undigested retained food, and constant vomiting of sour foul water; take it boiled with wine. It is also used as a bath decoction to treat beriberi and to eliminate scabies, tinea and wind itching."
② Bencao Zaixin: "Warms the blood vessels, benefits the joints, treats traumatic fractures, rebellious qi and blood stagnation, and can also induce abortion."
[Efficacy category] Wind-dispelling medicine
[Usage and dosage] Internal use: decoct in water, 10-20g; grind into powder, 3-6g; or soak in wine and drink. External use: appropriate amount, decoct in water and wash.
[Caution] Contraindicated for pregnant women.
[Supplementary formulas]
① To treat stomach pain: Camphor wood 5 qian, decoct in water and take. (Jiangxi Herbal Medicine)
② To treat beriberi, phlegm congestion with vomiting, fullness and oppression of the chest and inability to eat: Camphor wood 1 liang (coated with ginger juice and roasted until yellow), pound and sift into a powder. Take 1 qian each time mixed with rice gruel, regardless of the time. (Puji Fang, Camphor Wood Powder)
③ To treat gout, where the hands and feet are cold and painful as if bitten by a tiger: Camphor wood shavings 1 dou, boil in 1 dan of water until it boils, place the camphor wood shavings in a large tub, have the patient sit beside the tub with one foot inside, and surround the outside with one straw mat; do not let the steam enter the eyes, for fear of damaging them; the effect is very rapid. (Yixue Zhengzhuan)
④ To treat centipede bites: Fresh camphor tree branches, decoct and take two bowls. (Selected Effective Formulas)
[Discussions by various authors] Gangmu: "For cholera and dry cholera that require vomiting, decoct camphor wood shavings into a thick juice and use it to induce vomiting; this is very good. Also, for sudden death from noxious influences, burn camphor wood to smoke the patient, and wait until they revive before using medicine. This substance is pungent, strong and aromatically penetrating, and can remove dampness and ward off evil influences, which is why it is used."
[Source]
1. Pinhui Jingyao: The camphor tree, the tree is four or five zhang tall, with a diameter of about one zhang. The bark is like that of a willow but firm and solid; the leaves resemble those of a pear, thick and large, greenish-blue on the upper surface and cinnabar-red like maple on the underside; the branches and trunk spread gracefully and shade the ground. It blooms white flowers in summer, with five petals like plum blossoms, and sets seed in autumn, becoming fruit like hazelnuts by winter, brown in color and unfit to eat, only usable for pressing oil for lamps. It grows in the deep mountain valleys of Luoyuan in Fuzhou Prefecture, Fujian, and in Zhangzhou Prefecture, and is also found by roadsides and in the countryside.
2. Gangmu: The camphor tree grows in valleys everywhere in the southwest. The tree is over one zhang tall; the small leaves resemble those of nanmu but are pointed and long, with yellow-red down on the underside, and do not wither through the four seasons. It blooms small flowers in summer and bears small seeds. The large ones are several arm-spans around; the texture is fine and interwoven with grain, and it is suitable for
[Harvesting and storage] After the trees become timber 5-6 years after planting, the trunks are usually cut in winter, sawn into sections, split into small pieces and dried in the sun.
[Traditional Chinese medicine chemical composition] Camphor wood contains camphor and aromatic volatile oil (called camphor oil). Camphor oil subjected to vacuum fractional distillation yields 20% white oil (boiling point 160-165°C), containing 25-30% 1,8-cineole, α-pinene, camphene, limonene, etc.; 24% red oil (boiling point 210-250°C), containing safrole, α-terpineol, carvacrol, eugenol, etc.; and 1% blue oil (boiling point 250-300°C), containing cadinene, bisabolene, α-camphorene and azulene. From the roots of the camphor tree are also obtained laurolitsine and glaziovine. The wood also contains C16-25 n-alkanes, C17-33 isoalkanes, C16, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28 alkanols (of which C26 alkanol accounts for about 50%), β-sitosterol, polyols, keto alcohols, etc. From the bark are also detected propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, etc. The leaves also contain C16-33 n-alkanes. The seeds contain fatty oil, of which saturated fatty acids account for 93%; the ratio of tri-saturated, di-saturated, mono-saturated and tri-unsaturated acid glycerides is 80, 17, 1 and 2%. Depending on the season, the leaves contain 0.2-1.5% camphor. The safrole content in the leaves is 0.04-0.05%, unrelated to season.
The leaves of the variety of camphor tree contain 0.83% heavy volatile oil and 0.26% light volatile oil. The heavy oil contains 80% safrole and 10% camphor; the light oil contains 70% linalool and 1% camphor.
The leaves of Yunnan camphor contain camphene, α-pinene, cymene, linalool, α-terpineol, camphor, citral, decanal, methylheptenone, 1,8-cineole and eugenol.
The fresh leaves of Xiangmaozhang, one of the small varieties of Maoyezhang, yield 0.68-2% oil; the leaf oil contains about 50% camphor and about 42% citral and methylheptenone, and also contains 1,8-cineole, α-pinene, camphene and dl-limonene. The leaf oil of Maoyefangzhang, another small variety of Maoyezhang, is mainly composed of terpenes and 1,8-cineole.
The leaves and small branches of Japanese-grown camphor trees yield about 1% volatile oil and camphor; the residual oil after removing camphor from the volatile oil accounts for about 10%, of which α-ylangene is about 3%, β-elemene about 8%, β-caryophyllene about 35%, humulene about 18%, selinene 14%, and nerolidol 1%. It has also been reported that the main components in the high-boiling fraction of camphor oil (boiling point >215°C) are α-ylangene, α-santalene, β-santalene and δ-cadinene, all with contents above 10%; it also contains γ-patchoulene, dihydrocalacorene, calacorene, cadinatadiene-9,11, 1,6-dimethyl-4-isopropyl-7,8-dihydronaphthalene, β-elemene, caryophyllene, humulene, etc. From the blue oil fraction were also isolated the sesquiterpene components camphrenone, camphrenol and kusunol. The branches and leaves of Japanese-grown camphor trees, after being stored for a few days and then steam-distilled, can yield 1-1.3% volatile oil; the oil contains 90% alcohols, mainly linalool, and 2.1% camphor.
[Processing method] Wash clean, dry in the shade, and store sealed.
[Drug name] Zhangmuzi
[Aliases] Zhangkou, Zhangzi, Zhangmukou, Zhangshuguo
[Medicinal source] The ripe fruit of the camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), a plant of the Lauraceae family.
[Nature and flavor] Pungent; warm
[Functions and indications] Dispel wind and scatter cold; warm the stomach and harmonize the center; regulate qi and relieve pain. Mainly treats cold pain of the epigastrium and abdomen; vomiting and diarrhea due to cold-dampness; abdominal distension due to qi stagnation; beriberi.
[Efficacy category] Dispel wind and scatter cold; warm the stomach and harmonize the center; regulate qi and relieve pain
[Usage and dosage] Internal use: decoct in water, 10-15g. External use: appropriate amount, decoct in water and wash; or grind into powder and apply to the affected area mixed with water.
[Harvesting and storage] Pick the ripe fruit between November and December and dry in the sun.
[Traditional Chinese medicine chemical composition]
The seeds contain fatty oil, of which saturated fatty acids account for 93%; the molar percentage ratio of tri-saturated, di-saturated, mono-saturated and tri-unsaturated acid glycerides is 80:17:1:2.
[Crude drug identification] Character identification: The fruit is spherical, about 5-8mm in diameter, brown-black to purple-black, with a wrinkled and uneven surface, or sometimes glossy, sometimes with a persistent perianth tube at the base; the pericarp is fleshy and thin, containing 1 large black seed. The odor is extremely aromatic and the taste is pungent.
[Drug name] Zhangshuye
[Alias] Zhangye
[Medicinal source] The leaves of the camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), a plant of the Lauraceae family. Can be collected throughout the year, used fresh or dried in the sun.
[Nature and flavor] Luchuan Bencao: "Bitter and pungent in taste, warm."
[Functions and indications] Dispel wind, remove dampness, relieve pain, kill parasites. Treats rheumatic bone pain, traumatic injuries, scabies and tinea.
① Luchuan Bencao: "Kills parasites, sterilizes, treats scabies and tinea."
② Nanning City Drug Records: "Dispels wind, resolves phlegm, kills parasites. Treats cold-type rheumatic bone pain and stomach pain. Externally treats traumatic bruises, disperses toxins, moves qi and relieves pain."
③ Guangxi Traditional Chinese Medicine Records: "Branches and leaves are used to wash rheumatism."
[Efficacy category] Wind-dispelling medicine; dampness-removing medicine
[Usage and dosage] Internal use: decoct in water, 3-10g; or pound for juice, or grind into powder. External use: decoct in water and wash or pound and apply.
[Caution] Nanning City Drug Records: "Contraindicated for pregnant women."
[Supplementary formulas]
① To treat sallow complexion and deficient swelling: Camphor tree leaves and Daxueteng. Grind into powder, take 5 fen each time, taken with boiled water. (Hunan Drug Records)
② To treat hookworm disease: Camphor tree tender tips 0.5 jin. Fry until yellow, add 2 jin of water, decoct down to 0.5 jin, and take warm on an empty stomach the next morning. (Jiangxi Herbal Medicine)
③ To treat sores on the feet, each sore as large as a small writing brush tube: Camphor tree leaves, pound until soft, mix in a little Badudan, apply camphor tree leaves externally, changing continuously. (Zhou Yisheng Family Treasure Formulas)
④ To treat yin-type abscess: Fresh camphor tree leaves mixed with cold cooked rice grains, pound and apply to the affected area. In the early stage it can resolve the swelling; if it has already suppurated it can drain the pus. (Quanzhou Bencao)
⑤ To treat goose-web wind (tinea manuum): Camphor leaves (fresh) decocted in water for fumigation and washing. (Fujian Chinese Herbal Medicine)
④ To treat burns with blistering: Camphor leaves and bark in appropriate amounts. Dry in the sun and burn to ash, mix with egg white and apply. (Jiangxi Herbal Medicine)
[Discussions by various authors]
1. Luchuan Bencao: Kills parasites, sterilizes, treats scabies and tinea.
2. Nanning City Drug Records: Dispels wind, resolves phlegm, kills parasites. Treats cold-type rheumatic bone disease and stomach pain. Externally treats traumatic bruises, disperses toxins, moves qi and relieves pain.
3. Guangxi Traditional Chinese Medicine Records: Branches and leaves are used to wash rheumatism.
[Harvesting and storage] Collect before late March and after early May when the oil content is high, use fresh or dry in the shade.
[Traditional Chinese medicine chemical composition] The leaves contain volatile oil, whose main component is camphor (54.54%), and also 1,8-cineole and small amounts of α-terpineol, β-pinene, α-pinene, geranial, α-phellandrene, camphene, borneol, neral, etc.
[Drug name] Zhangshupi
[Aliases] Xiangzhangshupi (Yuju Fang), Zhangpi (Gangmu Shiyi), Zhangmupi (Shengcaoyao Shouce).
[Medicinal source] The bark of the camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), a plant of the Lauraceae family. Can be collected throughout the year, used fresh or dried in the sun.
[Nature and flavor] Luchuan Bencao: "Pungent, warm, bitter in taste."
[Functions and indications] Move qi, relieve pain, dispel wind-dampness. Treats vomiting and diarrhea, stomach pain, rheumatic arthralgia, beriberi, scabies and tinea, and traumatic injuries.
① Gangmu Shiyi: "Treats epidemic warm diseases, damp toxin streaming sores, bathing for scabies and tinea, and washing for beriberi."
② Luchuan Bencao: "Moves qi, reduces swelling, relieves pain, stops diarrhea. Treats stomach pain, diarrhea and swelling."
③ Nanning City Drug Records: "Dispels wind and resolves phlegm, kills parasites. Treats cold-type rheumatic bone pain and stomach pain. Externally treats traumatic bruises, disperses toxins, moves qi and relieves pain."
[Efficacy category] Qi-moving medicine; pain-relieving medicine; wind-dampness-dispelling medicine
[Usage and dosage] Internal use: decoct in water or soak in wine, 10-15g. External use: appropriate amount, decoct in water and wash.
[Caution] Nanning City Drug Records: "Contraindicated for pregnant women."
[Supplementary formulas]
① To treat cholera with vomiting and diarrhea: Camphor tree bark one handful. Decoct in water and take warm. (Yangsu Yuan Chuanxin Fang)
② To treat heart pain: Xiangzhangshupi, when collecting remove the black outer surface and use the second inner layer of bark, pound and crush, decoct in water and take. (Yuju Fang)
③ To treat rheumatic joint pain: Camphor tree second-layer bark (fresh) and fresh Didancao root, 1 liang each. Decoct in water and take. (Fujian Chinese Herbal Medicine)
④ To treat dampness with swollen feet: Zhangmupi 1 jin, Gejie 0.5 jin, Shanmupi 1 jin. Decoct in water for fumigation and washing. (Luchuan Bencao)
⑤ To treat drunkenness: Camphor tree bark decocted in water and taken. (Hunan Drug Records)
⑥ To treat skin itching after measles: Camphor tree bark (fresh) decocted in water for bathing. (Fujian Chinese Herbal Medicine)
[Discussions by various authors]
1. Gangmu Shiyi: Treats epidemic warm diseases, damp toxin streaming sores, bathing for scabies and tinea, and washing for beriberi.
2. Luchuan Bencao: Moves qi, reduces swelling, relieves pain, stops diarrhea. Treats stomach disease, diarrhea and swelling.
3. Nanning City Drug Records: Dispel wind and resolve phlegm, kill parasites. Treats cold-type rheumatic bone pain and stomach disease. Externally treats traumatic bruises, disperses toxins, moves qi and relieves pain.
[Harvesting and storage] Can be collected throughout the year; peel off the bark, cut into sections, use fresh or dry in the sun.
[Traditional Chinese medicine chemical composition] The bark contains (-)-epicatechin, (+)-epicatechin, procyanidins B1, B2, B7, C1 and cinnamtannin I, and also contains propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and myristoleic acid, etc.
[Crude drug identification] Character identification: The bark surface is smooth, yellow-brown, gray-brown or brown, with longitudinal fissures and cracks. It has a camphor odor and a bitter pungent taste.
Overview of the variety classification and applications of the camphor tree
This species is an important timber and special economic tree species in subtropical regions (southwest China). The roots, wood, branches and leaves can all be used to extract camphor and camphor oil; the main components of the oil are camphor, pinene, camphene, limonene and eugenol, etc. Camphor is used in medicine, plastics, explosives, preservation and insecticide, etc.; camphor oil can be used as a raw material for pesticides, ore dressing, soap-making, varnish and essences, etc.; the wood is of good quality, resistant to insect damage and water dampness, and is used for construction, shipbuilding, furniture, boxes and cabinets, boards and carving, etc.; the branches and leaves are dense and the tree shape is attractive, so it can be used as a greening street tree and windbreak forest. The wood of the camphor tree is rot-resistant, insect-proof, dense and aromatic. It is a good material for furniture and carving; besides being used to extract camphor, or cultivated as a street tree and garden landscape tree, camphor also has cardiotonic, antipyretic and insecticidal effects. In summer, if you go outdoors, you can try this: pick the leaves of the camphor tree, crush them and apply them to the surface of the hands and feet, and they have a mosquito-repellent effect. Scientific research has proven that the chemical substances emitted by the camphor tree, such as pinene, camphene, limonene and eugenol, have the ability to purify toxic air, have anti-cancer effects, and filter out fresh and clean air that refreshes the heart and mind. Long-term living in an environment with camphor trees can help avoid many difficult and complicated diseases. Therefore, the camphor tree has become the preferred fine tree for landscaping in many cities and regions in the south, and is deeply favored by the landscaping industry.
Historically, it was once a major thoroughfare for boats and carts between the Central Plains and Lingnan, and it is a newly emerging city that was approved by the State Council on October 26, 1988 to be upgraded from a county to a city. Zhangshu City was historically called Qingjiang County and is one of the four great ancient towns of Jiangxi. It is famous far and wide for its distinctive medicinal material production, processing, preparation and trade, and has long enjoyed the reputation that "medicines are not complete unless they reach Zhangshu, and medicines are not effective unless they reach Zhangshu"; it is China's famous "Southern Capital of Medicine". The origin of the name Zhangshu City comes from the ancient legend of "Nie You shooting a deer", hence it is also called "Lujiang". Together with the "Porcelain Capital" Jingdezhen and others, it ranks among the four great famous towns of Jiangxi Province, and in the Ming Dynasty it was one of the 33 major industrial and commercial towns in the country.
Camphor oil and camphor
The camphor tree is a specialty tree species of China, and its roots, stems, branches and leaves all contain camphor and camphor oil. Processing camphor and camphor oil is one of the ways to become wealthy in rural areas. It is mainly obtained through distillation. The process flow and operating methods are as follows:
(1) Raw material selection: The trunk and root parts of the camphor tree each contain 2%-4% camphor and camphor oil, while the branches and leaves each contain 1%-3%. The older the tree, the higher the content. Those with a large, bitter and astringent taste contain more camphor; those with a spicy and astringent taste contain more camphor oil. Collection should preferably be done in autumn, when the camphor content in the leaves is high. When picking leaves, leave 1/6 of the leaves on each tree, and trees over 30 years old are preferable. The branches and roots after felling should be split into thin pieces 2.5 cm wide, 1 cm thick and 10 cm long.
(2) Distillation in the pot: The distillation pot must not be made of iron; copper or stainless steel is preferable. A wooden distillation barrel is set up on the distillation stove, with a diameter consistent with that of the pot, and fitted over the pot. During processing, put the camphor leaves or camphor wood thin pieces into the distillation barrel. The water in the pot should be 10 cm away from the raw material. After loading the material, immediately close the pot lid and the loading opening, then check the connection between the distillation pot and the condenser; only if there is no air leakage can distillation begin. During distillation, the water level in the pot should be maintained to prevent burning dry or scorching. The water after oil-water separation should be returned to the pot as return water for reuse. (3) Cooling and separation: The steam carrying camphor and camphor oil passes through a guide pipe into a multi-ring disc-shaped condenser, and after condensation the camphor and oil float on the water surface. The separated water should be transparent; if not transparent, it should be separated again to increase the oil yield. Filter the camphor and camphor oil floating on the water surface through gauze to obtain crude camphor; the remaining camphor oil contains most of the camphor, so it is called camphor oil.
(4) Re-distillation and purification: When extracting camphor from camphor oil, put the camphor oil into the distillation pot and carry out secondary distillation, collecting the distillate at 155-200°C, which is called white oil. After the white oil cools, crystalline camphor precipitates out; then filter, and repeatedly distill the filtrate several times until no more camphor precipitates, and what remains is camphor oil.
(5) Finished product packaging: Camphor oil should be packed in black iron galvanized drums, taking care to seal them. Camphor is a soft, colorless, transparent crystal, pungent in taste and aromatic; it should be wrapped in moisture-proof paper or film and placed in wooden boxes to prevent dampness.
Other applications
In summer, if you go outdoors, you can try this: pick the leaves of the camphor tree, crush them and apply them to the surface of the hands and feet, and they have a mosquito-repellent effect. You can also use the camphor tree to make camphor balls to add fragrance. However, if you observe carefully, you will also find that the camphor tree can also be attacked by diseases and insect pests; this is how it is in the natural world, always fair, with one thing subduing another.
Cultivation techniques of the camphor tree: sowing and propagation
The fruit falls off on its own when ripe, and is pecked at by birds. For propagation by seed, sow as soon as collected; each kilogram contains 7,200-8,000 seeds, with a germination rate of 70-80%, and the sowing rate is 10-15 kg per mu. For afforestation, sprout regeneration can also be used. It is harmed by pests and diseases such as powdery mildew, black spot, camphor leaf bee, camphor tip leaf-roller moth, camphor nest borer and camphor longhorn beetle.
Seedling cultivation techniques
I. Introduction: The camphor tree has excellent timber quality and is aromatic; it is a first-class fine material for construction, furniture and crafts. The camphor and camphor oil of the camphor tree are widely used in crafts, substitute processing, medicine and the national defense industry. In addition, the camphor tree is also an excellent tree species for greening in the "four modernizations". The camphor tree is an evergreen tree, light-loving, with a strong main root and a well-developed root system; it likes a warm and humid climate, has strong adaptability, grows relatively fast and has a long lifespan. It grows best on deep, fertile flat land around dwellings and on river beach alluvial soil.
II. Seedling cultivation
1. Time. From October to December each year, collect the ripe seeds, then store them mixed with sand, and by early March they can be germinated and sown.
2. Land preparation. Carry out the first plowing and harrowing in early winter, carry out the second plowing and harrowing before sowing, and apply sufficient base fertilizer. The base fertilizer is generally decomposed barnyard manure, 1500-2000 kg per mu, or 50 kg of ammonium bicarbonate, 50 kg of phosphate fertilizer and 150 kg of rapeseed cake, then build raised beds, generally 35-50 cm high and 1.2 m wide.
3. Germination. In early March, before sowing, the camphor tree seeds need to be germinated. They can be soaked in warm water at 50°C; after the warm water cools, replace it with 50°C water and repeat the soaking 3-4 times, which can make the seeds germinate 10-15 days earlier.
4. Sowing. Drill sowing with a row spacing of about 20 cm, sowing rate 10-15 kg per mu; after sowing, cover with soil and then with straw or plastic film, keeping the surface soil of the seedbed moist to facilitate seed germination.
5. tending and management. After the seedlings emerge, promptly remove the straw or plastic film; when the seedlings have grown several true leaves, thinning can begin; when the seedlings are about 10 cm tall, final spacing can be carried out. Keep about 20,000 seedlings per mu of camphor tree. After July, strengthen fertilizer and water management, and frequently loosen the soil and weed. Stop topdressing and irrigation in late autumn. Generally topdress 2-3 times; for the first two times, 7-10 jin of urea can be used, and for the last time, 10 kg of urea and 7.5 kg of phosphate fertilizer can be used. One-year-old camphor seedlings can reach more than 50 cm, with a ground diameter of more than 0.7 cm.
III. The transplanting time is more suitable from mid-to-late March to early-to-mid April, and the transplanting density is about 1,500 plants per mu. Lift and transplant immediately; after transplanting, cut the stem about 10 cm above the ground; when the buds grow to about 10 cm, the main trunk can be determined, excess branches and buds cut off, and one relatively thick and strong branch retained. In winter, apply 2,000 kg of barnyard manure on the bed surface. In this way, the breast-height diameter of 3-year-old seedlings can reach more than 3 cm.
Transplanting techniques: seedling cultivation
For cultivating large seedlings, transplanting should be carried out; the transplanting time is more suitable from mid-to-late March to early-to-mid April, and the transplanting density is about 22,500 plants/hm2. Lift and transplant immediately; after transplanting, cut the stem about 10 cm above the ground; when the buds grow to about 10 cm, the main trunk can be determined, excess branches and buds cut off, and one relatively thick and strong branch retained. During seedling cultivation, cultivation work such as intertillage, weeding, earthing up, topdressing, irrigation and pest and disease control must be carried out in a timely manner. Seedling tending should be no less than 3 times in the first year, and 1-2 times in the second year. The camphor tree has many sprouting branches, so bud removal should be carried out in the first 3 years, mainly removing the tender buds on the lower 2/3 above the ground. In winter, apply 30 t/hm2 of barnyard manure on the bed surface. In this way, the breast-height diameter of 3-year-old seedlings can reach more than 3 cm. When leaving the nursery, take along a mud ball and appropriately prune the branches and leaves to increase the survival rate of afforestation.
Transplanting
Choose camphor trees with straight trunks, fresh bark color, robust growth and that have been transplanted in the last 2 years; their new fine roots are concentrated at the root collar, and the survival rate of the trees is relatively high. Use heeling-in seedlings as much as possible; after several months of heeling in, camphor saplings begin to grow new roots at the root collar, and root activity is relatively vigorous, making it easier to survive even when planted in unsuitable seasons. For camphor saplings dug out from the nursery, if used for off-season planting, the soil ball should be larger than under normal conditions; the larger the soil ball, the more complete the root system, and the easier the planting is to succeed. If they are bare-root seedlings, they should also carry as much core soil as possible, and the retained roots should be long with many fine roots. Use small seedlings as much as possible. Small seedlings have stronger rooting ability than large seedlings and a higher transplant survival rate; as long as there is no rush to quickly obtain a good greening effect, small seedlings should be used. Planting should be timely, that is, pruned camphor saplings should be planted immediately. If the transport distance is relatively long, the root collar should be wrapped with wet grass, plastic film, etc. to keep it moist. The best planting time is before 11 a.m. or after 16 p.m.; in winter, it is enough to avoid the coldest days. The planting hole should be dug according to general technical procedures; base fertilizer should be applied at the bottom of the hole and a fine soil cushion laid; the planting soil should be loose and fertile. Remove the wrapping from the camphor sapling, place the sapling upright in the planting hole (pay attention to the ornamental side of the tree), fill in soil and then firm the soil and continue filling soil to the top of the hole. Finally, make a water-retaining berm around the sapling.
Irrigation
After the camphor saplings are planted, water them immediately. For camphor saplings with soil balls, while watering, also use an iron rod or wooden stick to stir the soil around the tree hole, so that through the action of water the soil around the tree hole can be filled in. When watering, be careful not to damage the soil berm; the soil berm should be filled with water so that the water slowly seeps into the planting hole. To further increase the survival rate of planting, auxin can be added to the irrigation water to stimulate new root growth. The auxin is generally naphthalene acetic acid; first dissolve the powdered naphthalene acetic acid in a small amount of alcohol, then mix it into clean water to prepare an irrigation solution with a concentration of 200 mg/kg, and use it as the first root-setting water for irrigation. For newly transplanted camphor trees, 2/3 of the crown has been pruned, the leaves reduced by 90%, and the root system has also been damaged to some extent, so their ability to absorb water is very weak; therefore, it is enough to keep the soil moist. If the soil water content is too high, it will greatly affect soil aeration and instead inhibit root respiration; if water accumulates for a long time, it will cause root rot and seriously affect root growth promotion. For this reason, during planting, attention should be paid to leaving ventilation and drainage holes. However, the first watering should be thorough; afterward, water cautiously according to the weather and soil texture, following the principle of "do not water if not dry, and water thoroughly once watered", and at the same time prevent too much ground water from dripping into the roots. On the other hand, prevent water accumulation in the tree hole after rain, that is, check the drainage and ventilation facilities every day, and promptly clear any blockage or accumulated water to ensure that the tree roots do not accumulate water or suffer drought. When the temperature drops below 0°C, stop spraying water at the root of the soil ball; when conditions are ripe (the maximum temperature rises back above 5°C), generally spray water at noon every 5-7 d to moisten the leaf surface.
Pruning
Before planting, the roots should be tidied up, cutting off broken roots, dead roots and rotten roots, and shortening the main root that has no fine roots; the crown should also be pruned, generally cutting off 1/3-1/2 of all branches and leaves, greatly reducing the transpiration area of the crown. For seedlings with soil balls, root pruning is not necessary; only the crown needs to be pruned. When pruning, cut off 1/3-1/2 of the crown together with branches and leaves, greatly reducing the leaf area to lower the water loss of the whole tree, but the basic tree shape should be maintained to speed up the formation of the landscape and achieve the greening effect as soon as possible.
Heat preservation
Low temperatures are relatively common from November to February of the following year each year. This period is the golden season for tree planting and planting greenery trees. Because camphor trees (Cinnamomum camphora) have weak cold tolerance, taking heat preservation measures for camphor trees has become an urgent matter. The main measure for protecting seedlings from freezing is the protection of the trunk, branches and soil ball roots. Since camphor tree transplanting is generally for greening effects, it is necessary to protect against freezing while not affecting the aesthetic degree of greening. The "3-layer antifreeze protection" method can be used to protect camphor trees, that is, wrapping the trunk and branches of the camphor tree with 3 layers of external materials (the 1st layer is straw rope, the 2nd layer is linen cloth, the 3rd layer is rice straw). Another meaning of "3-layer antifreeze protection" refers to using 100 cm thick loose mountain soil, plastic film, and then covering with straw bags at the soil ball part for heat preservation. According to past experience, plastic film should not be used for trunk heat preservation. Because there is more rain and snow in winter, once water enters the plastic film, it is easy to accumulate water, which often causes the trunk to turn black and rot, while rice straw has good water permeability and does not have the problem of water accumulation.
Disease and pest control of camphor trees
The leaf roller moth occurs for several generations a year. The larvae bore into and feed on young shoots, causing the affected seedlings to die. The larvae can be sprayed and killed with a 200-300 times dilution of 40% dimethoate. When the larvae are pupating in large numbers, weeding and earthing up in the forest land can be carried out in combination with tending to kill the pupae. The camphor longhorn beetle mainly damages the main branches and side branches. Manual capture can be used, or dichlorvos can be injected through the excretion holes. The camphor leaf bee larvae feed on the young shoots of camphor leaves grown in the current year, seriously affecting the growth of camphor trees. This insect occurs for 1-2 generations a year in Henan Province. Early May and early June are the larval stages of the 1st and 2nd generations respectively. It can be sprayed and killed with a 2000 times dilution of 90% trichlorfon or 50% malathion emulsion. It can also be sprayed and killed with a medicinal liquid made from 0.5 kg of yellow azalea or Tripterygium wilfordii powder plus 75-100 kg of water. The camphor nest moth larvae gather in groups on new shoots to feed on leaf buds, and spin silk to roll the leaves into a ball shape, wrapping the terminal buds, causing the new shoots to die. This larva occurs for 2 generations a year. The 1st generation larvae damage from the end of May to mid-July. When the 2nd generation larvae have not yet formed net nests, spray and kill with a 4000-5000 times dilution of 90% crystalline trichlorfon. If the larvae have already formed net nests, they can be manually removed and burned.
Powdery mildew
This disease mostly occurs on seedlings in nursery land. It is most likely to occur under conditions of high temperature, high humidity, overly dense seedlings and poor ventilation. Gray-brown spots appear on the back of young leaves on the main vein and nearby areas, then spread over the entire back of the leaf, and a layer of white powder appears. In severe cases, white powder also appears on young branches and trunks.
[Control methods]:
1. The nursery should always pay attention to environmental sanitation and appropriately thin the seedlings; or when a small number of diseased plants are found, they should be immediately pulled out or burned.
2. When it occurs, use lime sulfur mixture at 0.3-0.5 degrees Baume, spray once every 10 days, for three or four consecutive times.
Black spot disease
After camphor tree seeds germinate and emerge, when 1-4 leaves have grown, this disease is likely to occur. It turns dark brown from the tip of the seedling to the root and dies.
[Control methods]: During sowing, do a good job of disinfecting seeds, soil and covering materials. When the disease occurs, first pull out and burn the diseased seedlings, and spray with 0.5% potassium permanganate or formalin two or three times to prevent spread.
Camphor leaf bee
It occurs for many generations in one year and has a long damage period. When 1-year-old seedlings are severely damaged, they may die. After afforestation, the young leaves on the upper part of the tree crown are often eaten completely, and in severe cases affect tree growth.
[Control methods]: A medicinal liquid can be made from 0.5 kg of yellow azalea or Tripterygium wilfordii powder plus 75-100 kg of clean water and sprayed on seedlings, or sprayed and killed with 2000 times dilutions of 90% trichlorfon or 50% malathion emulsion.
Camphor shoot leaf roller moth
It occurs for several generations a year. The larvae bore into and feed on branch tips, affecting the height growth of camphor trees and causing the trunk shape to bend.
[Control methods]:
1. After new shoots of camphor trees emerge in March, when the first generation larvae hatch, spray with 10000 times dilutions of 90% trichlorfon, 50% naled emulsion, or 50% malathion emulsion, once every 5 days, for two or three consecutive times, which can kill the larvae. If the larvae have already bored into the new shoots, a 200-300 times dilution of 40% dimethoate emulsion can also be sprayed.
2. In nurseries or small-area forest land, dead branches and fallen leaves can be collected and burned in winter to eliminate overwintering pupae.
Camphor nest moth
It occurs for two generations a year. The first generation larvae damage from the end of May to mid-July. The second generation larvae damage from August to September. The larvae gather in groups on new shoots to feed on leaf buds, and spin silk to roll residual leaves into a ball shape, wrapping the terminal buds, so that the new shoots die, and even the whole plant dies.
[Control methods]:
1. When the larvae have just begun activity and have not yet formed net nests, spray with a 4000-50000 times dilution of 90% trichlorfon to kill them.
2. If the larvae have already formed net nests, it is best to burn them.
Camphor longhorn beetle
1. During the adult egg-laying period (early May to early June), use a wire brush to brush the egg-laying scars, and prick the eggs or newly hatched larvae.
2. Manually prune the damaged branches, then inject dichlorvos and other agents through the excretion holes to kill the larvae inside.
Aphids
Aphid damage mostly occurs in spring, mainly harming young leaves and young shoots, sucking sap, causing irregular shrinkage, curling, discoloration, and falling off on the back of leaves, and even the whole plant withering and dying. At the same time, aphids secrete a large amount of honeydew, contaminating branches and leaves and inducing sooty mold. When a large number of aphids are found, pesticides should be sprayed in time for control. The specific measures are as follows:
① Prepare tobacco leaf water at a ratio of 1:15, soak for 4 hours and then spray, or prepare chili water at a ratio of 1:6-8 (boil for about half an hour) and spray, or prepare washing powder water at a ratio of 1:20-30 and spray, or prepare a mixed solution of washing powder, urea and water at a ratio of 1:20:400 and spray, spraying 2-3 consecutive times, all of which can achieve very good control results.
② The early hatching stage of aphids in spring (April and May) is the best period for controlling aphids. At this time, use a 1000 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsion, or a 1000 times dilution of 50% malathion emulsion, or a 1000 times dilution of 50% fenitrothion emulsion, or a 1000 times dilution of 50% dichlorvos emulsion, or a 1000 times dilution of 50% phoxim emulsion, or a 2000 times dilution of 50% monocrotophos emulsion, or a 3000 times dilution of 50% pirimicarb wettable powder, or a 3000 times dilution of 2.5% deltamethrin emulsion, or a 3000 times dilution of 2.5% fenpropathrin emulsion, etc., and spray the tree crown 1-2 times.
③ For aphids such as the peach powder aphid that are themselves covered with wax powder, when applying any pesticide, 0.3% soap water or washing powder should be added to increase adhesion and improve control effects.
Yellowing leaves
After camphor tree transplanting, leaf yellowing occurs. Remedial measures can be taken from the following two aspects.
First, apply more organic fertilizer to improve the physical and chemical properties of the soil. During transplanting, apply an appropriate amount of decomposed manure or compost as base fertilizer. When transplanting seedlings, soil balls should be kept at the roots and large holes should be dug. Plant with sufficient base fertilizer. The soil layer is loose and fertile, and drainage and ventilation performance are good, which is conducive to preventing and reducing the occurrence of iron-deficiency yellow leaves.
Second, during the growth period, spray the leaf surface with ferrous sulfate solution. Generally, add 100 to 150 grams of ferrous sulfate and 50 to 100 grams of citric acid to every 50 kg of water, and spray on leaves that have not yet aged on sunny days with little wind. Be careful to spray both the front and back of the leaves. This method takes effect quickly. Ferrous sulfate solution can also be poured on the roots of camphor trees. Generally, add 100 to 150 grams of ferrous sulfate and 50 to 100 grams of citric acid to every 5 kg of water, dig holes and apply irrigation at the places where the root system of the camphor tree is densely connected. Although the effect is slow, the duration is relatively long. When irrigating with ferrous sulfate, it is best to apply it together with decomposed organic fertilizer liquid. Because the decomposition products of organic matter in organic fertilizer have a complexing effect on iron and can increase the solubility of iron. In addition, calcium, magnesium, manganese, copper and other elements have antagonistic effects on iron and can reduce the effectiveness of iron, so when applying ferrous sulfate, it is best not to apply fertilizers containing these elements at the same time.
Canker disease
Symptoms: This disease is a whole-plant infectious disease. The disease mainly occurs on the trunk and main branches. It not only harms seedlings, but can also harm large trees. Infected plants mostly form scattered, nearly round blister-like canker spots at the edges of lenticels. They are relatively small at first, then become larger and appear as typical blisters. The blisters are filled with light brown liquid. The blisters rupture, and after the liquid flows out, they become dark brown. Finally, the diseased spots dry and shrink, and there is a small longitudinal crack in the center. In severely affected plants, the diseased spots on the trunk are dense and connect with each other. The cortex of the diseased part turns brown and rots, and the plant gradually dies.
Time of occurrence: Early April to May and late September are the peak periods of disease occurrence.
Control methods: Remove dead plants in time, and apply carbendazim or trichlorfon at 20-30 times dilution to the whole plant, using the pesticide 3-4 consecutive times within 1 week.
Uses and purposes of camphor trees
The purpose of our planting is the utilization of resources. The purpose and utilization pathways of planting camphor trees are very broad and diverse. Greening the environment is one of the uses. Next, I will share the uses of camphor trees with everyone:
1. Camphor is suitable for beautifying the environment, conserving soil and water, wood utilization, medicinal utilization, extracting camphor, raising camphor silkworms, raising blackbirds, making food spices, being used as tea for drinking, interplanting with tea trees to improve tea aroma quality, repelling mosquitoes and warding off evil, stopping plagues, making sanitary incense, divine incense, mosquito-repellent incense, making root carving industrial products, etc.
2. Camphor trees have dense branches and leaves, a large crown and dense shade, and a majestic tree posture. They can absorb smoke and dust, conserve water sources, and fix soil and prevent sand. They are excellent tree species for urban greening and are widely used as shade trees, street trees, shelter forests and scenic forests. They are arranged beside ponds, by water, on hillsides, etc. In grasslands, they are planted in clumps, groups, singly, or used as background trees.
3. Camphor wood is a very good material for construction and furniture. It does not deform and is resistant to insect damage. In folk culture, camphor wood is often used to carve Buddha statues. Camphor is a granular crystal made from the roots, trunks, branches and leaves of camphor trees through distillation processing.
Cultural background and folk legends of camphor trees
According to legend, in the late Qing Dynasty, a young couple lived in Heping Village, Longgou Township, Chongyi County. The man was named Xie Xiangui and the woman was surnamed Lai. They lived in a thatched house and wore ragged clothes, but they were kind-hearted and loved each other, and their days were considered sweet. One autumn evening, the couple, returning from work, suddenly found a white thing flying down from the sky and landing in front of their home. When they went over to look, they found it was a pair of white cranes fluttering, apparently injured, and making painful calls. The couple looked at them, felt compassion, and carried them home. Then they immediately prepared medicine and gave water. After their careful care, in less than half a month, the pair of cranes had recovered from their injuries. When everyone saw this, they all advised them to sell the cranes, so that they could exchange them for a large sum of money. The couple shook their heads and said, "The cranes are divine things in the sky and can only fly in the air. If sold, we would be struck by heaven and five thunders." After saying this, the couple each held a crane and released them under the ancient camphor tree in front of the door. Unexpectedly, when the cranes flew into the air, they suddenly turned back, called three times to the couple to say goodbye, and then flew east like arrows.
A few days later, at the place where the cranes were released, two camphor trees miraculously grew. Although the weather was dry, the camphor trees grew verdant and full of vitality. The couple was overjoyed and watered and fertilized them every day. Several decades passed, and the formerly young couple had in a blink become white-haired old "immortals." The camphor trees had also grown into lush towering trees. By this time, the old people's household had not only become well-off and prosperous, but they also had many descendants. When dying, the 96-year-old Xie Xiangui looked at the descendants kneeling before his sickbed and said affectionately, "I have no request for you in this life, I only hope that in the future you will take good care of the two camphor trees in front of the door." From then on, they protected and loved the trees generation after generation. The neighbors also became more united because of this, and people became diligent and honest.
This year, the new rural construction was carried out here, and Xiewu became more beautiful and attractive. Under the tall and upright ancient camphor trees, not only were flower beds built and flowers planted, but stone tables and stone stools were also built, making the environment more comfortable and natural. Now, this place has not only become a good place for people to cool off and relax, but also a good place for people to exercise and keep fit. Therefore, these two century-old camphor trees are now affectionately called the "happiness tree" and "harmony tree."
Flower language of camphor trees
Tenacious life, the realm of sitting in the lotus position and watching the clouds roll and unfold, and watching flowers bloom and fall. It is also said to be related to love, and its unique fragrance makes people feel romantic.
Camphor tree pictures