What are the reasons a hoya won't bloom? Let us help you pinpoint the problem
After a hoya blooms it is very beautiful. If the hoya you just brought home is in bloom, then its lush, leafy appearance is very lovely. But many friends find that a hoya kept into its second year will fail to bloom. What exactly causes this? Let us analyze it for you.
Hoya
Hoya is very afraid of having its roots disturbed, because the young roots are by nature very sensitive, and this affects their ability to absorb. If they are disturbed before or after flower bud differentiation, it is even more likely to result in no flowers. Another reason is that the potting soil is overly compacted, causing the roots to rot; therefore the potting soil should be mixed so that 40 percent of it is loose peat soil. As for fertilizing, it is best to keep it light rather than concentrated, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, with nitrogen fertilizer secondary; but when there are pests or fungal problems and you need to apply pesticide, or on rainy days, it is not suitable to fertilize.
1. Hoya pruning:Young plants should be pinched back early to encourage branching, and supports should be set up in good time so they can climb and grow upward. When repotting, cut away some of the old roots. After the flowers fade, let them wither and drop naturally; do not cut off the flower stems.
2. Hoya repotting:For the pot, choose a small pot with feet. Young plants should be repotted once every spring, and mature plants can be repotted once every 2-3 years. For plants that already have buds and are in bloom, do not move the pot at will, otherwise it easily causes bud and flower drop.
3. Hoya fertilizer and water management:During the growing season, besides watering by the principle of letting the soil dry before watering thoroughly, you also need to frequently mist the leaves. In summer, watering should be ample, and at the same time pay attention to increasing air humidity to promote healthy growth. During the peak growing season, apply a phosphorus-potassium combined fertilizer solution once or twice a month.
4. Hoya light selection:For potted hoya, in spring and autumn it is best placed outdoors on a south-facing windowsill or indoors near a south window, which keeps the leaves emerald green and glossy and produces good blooming. In summer it needs to be moved to a shaded spot to prevent direct strong light, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. If it is kept in a place with insufficient light for a long time, the leaf color fades and the flowers are few and not vivid.
Analysis of the reasons hoya won't bloom and how to handle them
Hoya is much loved for its unusual flower shape, so many flower lovers keep it at home, but then the worry appears. Some flower lovers find that when they newly buy a hoya it is covered in blooms, yet in the second year the hoya no longer blooms. In fact, the main reason is that many people, after the hoya blooms, dislike the long branches and so cut them short. Hoya is different from four-season tangerine or "dragon spout," which need pruning; their growing points and florigen are mostly on the upper part of the branches, so if you cut them off rashly, it is hard for them to bloom again; you have to wait for the branches to regrow and mature, which takes a long period. Even the flower stems of hoya must not be removed, because the following year flower buds will form at the same growing point.
Hoya is very afraid of having its roots disturbed, because the young roots are by nature very sensitive, and this affects their ability to absorb. If they are disturbed before or after flower bud differentiation, it is even more likely to result in no flowers. Another reason is that the potting soil is overly compacted, causing the roots to rot; therefore the potting soil should be mixed so that 40 percent of it is loose peat soil. As for fertilizing, it is best to keep it light rather than concentrated, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, with nitrogen fertilizer secondary; but when there are pests or fungal problems and you need to apply pesticide, or on rainy days, it is not suitable to fertilize.
Hoya pruning: Young plants should be pinched back early to encourage branching, and supports should be set up in good time so they can climb and grow upward. When repotting, cut away some of the old roots. After the flowers fade, let them wither and drop naturally; do not cut off the flower stems.
Hoya repotting: For the pot, choose a small pot with feet. Young plants should be repotted once every spring, and mature plants can be repotted once every 2-3 years. For plants that already have buds and are in bloom, do not move the pot at will, otherwise it easily causes bud and flower drop.
Hoya fertilizer and water management: During the growing season, besides watering by the principle of letting the soil dry before watering thoroughly, you also need to frequently mist the leaves. In summer, watering should be ample, and at the same time pay attention to increasing air humidity to promote healthy growth. During the peak growing season, apply a phosphorus-potassium combined fertilizer solution once or twice a month.
Hoya light selection: For potted hoya, in spring and autumn it is best placed outdoors on a south-facing windowsill or indoors near a south window, which keeps the leaves emerald green and glossy and produces good blooming. In summer it needs to be moved to a shaded spot to prevent direct strong light, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. If it is kept in a place with insufficient light for a long time, the leaf color fades and the flowers are few and not vivid.
Analysis of the reasons hoya buds abort
Many flower lovers report that their hoya finally shows buds, and then they abort, turning hope into disappointment. So what are the reasons hoya buds abort? Let us look at the analysis from an experienced flower lover.
1. The pot is too small, causing a lack of water and nutrients. The traditional notion that a small pot makes it easy to bloom is still very popular. Therefore the choice of pot for hoya is very important.
2. The growing medium is unsuitable.
I often transplant with buds on the plant, digging it out, trimming the roots and planting it again, and the buds do not easily abort. Why is that? Many people use bark, orchid stone and other all-granular growing media. This kind of medium is originally very dry, and the plant is thirsty most of the time. When you pour a ladle of water down, a plant suffering from lack of water will naturally take up water more strongly, and as a result it swells, and before long the water is quickly gone again, so the buds drop. Therefore bark, orchid stone and similar media cause large fluctuations in watering, and this water shock is an important cause of bud abortion.
Therefore a good growing medium should have the following characteristics:
1. Right after watering, the water-holding rate is appropriate, and it should not hold too much water.
2. Right after watering, the moisture in the medium evaporates quickly, rapidly lowering the water-holding rate and reducing the incidence of root rot.
3. After that the evaporation rate declines, and it can retain moisture for a long period; it should have a good evaporation curve.
4. The size of the pot must be appropriate. A pot that is too small also causes a big water shock; the smaller the environment, the more easily it changes.