How to plant Chinese persimmon? These key planting points must be remembered

Chinese persimmon is also called bottle orchid. Because the Chinese persimmon has graceful branches and an iron-like color, blooms pale yellow flowers in April, sets fruit in May, and the fruit turns orange-yellow in October, shaped like a marble, it can be said that the Chinese persimmon combines ornamental fruit, leaves, and flowers, with very high economic and landscape value. So what are the precautions for planting Chinese persimmon?

Chinese persimmon

1. Grafting.On a fruiting female plant, we should select fruiting branches or buds that are robust in growth, free of pests and diseases, and have plump buds, then graft them onto a non-fruiting male plant to cultivate new fruiting branch groups so that they bear fruit. Grafting is generally carried out in spring each year or in late July, because sap flow is most active at this time.

2. Fertilizing.Spring is when Chinese persimmon grows new buds, and this is when it needs fertilizer most. Sufficient fertilizer can promote branch growth and produce more new shoots, preparing for cultivating new fruit. We can apply a small amount of urea or bone meal fertilizer, and wood ash is also fine.

3. Pruning.The purpose of pruning is mainly thinning branches, with light pruning as a supplement. Focus on cutting off overlapping branches, upright branches, crossing branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, etc.

4. Water and light.During the flower bud differentiation stage, water must be strictly controlled, mainly keeping it dry, and watering only when completely dry. Combined with watering, an appropriate amount of quick-acting fertilizer can be added, but the concentration should not be too high. Chinese persimmon likes a humid, semi-shaded environment and should not be kept indoors for too long, because plants need to carry out photosynthesis, which I believe anyone who has studied biology should know.

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the coldest period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather gradually begins to warm and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to move from winter dormancy into a recovery stage. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue doing a good job of cold protection and heat preservation for potted flowers in protective facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after blooming; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation, and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: pot marigold, cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, safflower, cornflower, blanket flower, strawflower, scarlet sage, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, petunia, California poppy, phlox, pocketbook plant, butterfly flower, snapdragon, nasturtium, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: seeds of magnolia species, michelia species, photinia species, maple species, and crabapple species (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand stratification, as well as camphor tree, tulip tree, glossy privet, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, lilac, etc.; seeds of wintersweet, summer wintersweet, wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture in February include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches from cultivars such as Gongfen and Lü'e), nandina, cotton rose (southern regions), crape myrtle, daphne (southern regions), edgeworthia, pomegranate, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasminum, serissa, hibiscus, hypericum (plum), spiraea, mahonia, boxwood species, lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of lilac and Chinese trumpet creeper can also be used for cuttings at this time. In early February, branches of weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cuttings at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings in February include: hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), begonia, red-back eupatorium, scarlet sage, geranium, jasmine, chloranthus, bergamot, jade plant, jade leaf, echeveria, graptopetalum, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, pilea, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, schefflera, dumb cane, cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, pink pine, lacebark pine, etc., then plant them in the ground and cover with film to preserve heat and moisture. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate superior wintersweet cultivars such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou', and 'Huti', adopting bagging and inflation measures to retain moisture, resulting in a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar 'Elizabeth' as rootstock scions, and use cut grafting or cleft grafting for scions of superior rose cultivars, adopting measures of grafting first, then cuttings, and then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold, which can greatly increase the survival rate of grafting.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, weigela, podocarpus, creeping juniper, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball, winter jasmine, forsythia, hypericum, hydrangea, bridal wreath spiraea, snowflake spiraea, red maple, michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris, blackberry lily, autumn zephyrlily, dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, variegated lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, bleeding heart, hosta, purple hosta, small tulip, bromeliads, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plant species, kalanchoe, canna, arrowroot, monstera, Syngonium, bird of paradise, clivia, aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: nandina, cotton rose, hypericum, mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, snowflake spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, bamboo palm, Pleioblastus, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as nandina, holly species, Ardisia crenata, and winter cherry can be picked, treated, and then sand-stored to promote germination, and sowing can only be carried out after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial pollination can be provided in order to obtain clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, attention should be paid to checking various flower and tree seeds stored in sand to see whether any seed grains have become moldy. If mold occurs, they should be cleaned promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriate supplementary spraying can be given to maintain a certain humidity for the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, they should be sown within a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large seeds stored in sand can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: dianthus species, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, pot marigold, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among deciduous types, such as hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before budding and leafing out), magnolia species, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, spiraea, Triadica, deutzia, Japanese pagoda tree, dragon-claw pagoda tree, dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden willow, cotton rose, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as michelia species, camphor tree, Elaeocarpus, French holly, Machilus, purple nanmu, etc., can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, glossy privet, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively large amounts of nutrients, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so work to retain moisture and protect against cold should continue carefully. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, heating should continue, and harmful gases or smoke should be prevented from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, they can continue to be hung; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

Overwintering potted flowers placed in protective facilities should continue to be ventilated. Especially by the end of February, ventilation time can be extended during the period of highest temperature in the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to put them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers kept in small quantities at home, such as Aglaia, Phalaenopsis, peacock arrowroot, Syngonium, iron cross begonia, croton, and pink cordyline, on particularly cold days, plastic bags can be put over them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bathroom heater" can be turned on to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. Because temperatures are relatively low in February, for most potted flowers it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can safely overwinter, because root growth has stopped at this time and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, plants should frequently be given foliar water spraying and misting to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases leaves lose green color, flower buds stop growing, and in severe cases leaves shrivel and wrinkle and flower buds shrink and drop, such as with camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter cherry, etc., all of which may drop buds and fruit, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plants placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, pot marigold, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, nandina, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season tangerine, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruit, so that the leaves remain green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruit colors become vivid. Especially for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, and hanging crabapple placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times daily to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so they can bloom as scheduled. For large-flowered Cymbidium purchased after being cultivated in greenhouse tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often appear shriveled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it must be ensured that the potting soil remains moist, and the plants should be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times daily; otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although most potted flowers do not need much water in February, inspections should be strengthened, and especially during several consecutive days of rising temperatures, supplementary watering and spraying should be increased promptly.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, water should be replenished promptly. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, foliar water spraying should also be given appropriately around noon on clear days to prevent leaf shrinkage and shedding afterward, which would affect recovery growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, base fertilizer can continue to be buried for most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon droppings, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, daphne, plum blossom, European daffodil, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, bromeliads, Tillandsia, Guzmania, clivia, etc., low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate can continue to be applied as a top dressing to facilitate plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, wintersweet, forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have bloomed, only 2 to 3 buds at the base are retained, and all the rest are cut off, to encourage more new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the next year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types mainly pruned for shape, such as Chinese elm, Japanese boxthorn, banyan, trident maple, Fukien tea, oak, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, Elaeagnus, Chinese holly, holly, serissa, juniper, Chinese juniper, etc., pruning should continue; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repotting can be given at the same time as pruning.

    5. Repotting. From late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: hibiscus, geranium, Aglaia, Michelia alba, jasmine, chloranthus, two-colored jasmine, red-back eupatorium, sword fern, monstera, rubber tree, fuchsia, begonia, four-season begonia, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm, clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, orchid cactus, sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, schefflera, Rohdea japonica, bird of paradise, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, clerodendrum, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, hydrangea, nandina, croton, Syngonium, arrowroot, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, bergamot, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, etc., at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution for spraying, once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are sufficient.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted cyclamen in plastic tunnels, 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" should be stopped, because at this time the temperature is low and humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush, and when there are many insects they can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as mealybugs, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and black round scale appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed by dipping a cotton swab in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flower pot.

Continue clearing dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and pest-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the next year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water pool or water vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun, and after fully drying, package it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried granular cake fertilizer powder can be scattered in flower pots as a top dressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower species, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer, especially when growing flowers on a balcony, as it is both convenient and hygienic and can also reduce the occurrence of foliar diseases. In addition, it can also be used for mixing potting soil.

    8. Turning over soil for freezing. In early February, garden plots that have not yet been plowed can continue to be turned over. After overwintering and freezing, once spring returns and the weather warms, trenches can be opened and beds made for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include creeping juniper, podocarpus, Chinese juniper, juniper, oriental arborvitae, true juniper, ginkgo, serissa, creeping juniper, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-head red pine, water willow, Caragana, small golden coin plum, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, banyan, Chinese elm, trident maple, etc.

Continue to rewire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, the metal wire or non-metal wire should first be removed, and new binding material should be replaced for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or artificially cemented rocks from freezing, cracking, and disintegrating, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: white magnolia, ginkgo, osmanthus, purple magnolia, michelia, Yulan magnolia, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, hanging crabapple, Malus micromalus, Chinese snowball, snowball viburnum, persimmon, cotton rose, tulip tree, plum blossom, rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, nandina, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and humid, then you should choose some flower and tree species adapted to shady and humid conditions, such as palm, photinia, Aucuba, French holly, glossy privet, Mahonia bealei, southern magnolia, camphor tree, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, podocarpus, Fatsia japonica, Chinese juniper, cedar, wintersweet, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness, or moisture in your courtyard, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, you should pay attention to the following points: first, the minimum temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid cold damage; second, they should be adapted to local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid not adapting; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to obstruct the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that may cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but already basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, podocarpus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many herbaceous flowers and ground cover plant species suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, scarlet sage, cockscomb, globe amaranth, Gomphrena, marigold, hollyhock, impatiens, lupine, daisy, pot marigold, corn poppy, autumn zephyrlily, dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and ground cover plant species include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Lycoris, Rohdea japonica, purple-backed Rohdea, Aspidistra, iris, calamus, saxifrage, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potted cultivation in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species requiring relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Aglaia, camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, queen palm, Michelia alba, chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon and phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), cinnamon species (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, large-flowered Cymbidium, anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, bird of paradise, hibiscus, clivia, pothos, Fittonia, croton, Syngonium, Syngonium, bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, pocketbook plant, fish-tail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can cultivate some species requiring relatively extensive management, such as nandina, sago palm, rhapis palm, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, serissa, Chaenomeles speciosa, four-season osmanthus, cactus species, asparagus fern, rubber tree, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, monstera, Philodendron, schefflera, pilea, red-back eupatorium, bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, banyan, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, summer wintersweet, red maple, tulip tree. The latter five species all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sowing is done after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling propagation after sand stratification to promote germination include: sago cycad, ginkgo, Buddhist pine, podocarpus, fan palm, purple magnolia, michelia species, osmanthus, horse chestnut, nandina, holly species, pomegranate, Chinese snowball, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, scarlet sage, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow species, four-o'clock, bird of paradise, clivia, asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: hibiscus, geranium, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, purslane tree, graptopetalum, echeveria, hydrangea, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, silver bud willow, hypericum, podocarpus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, forsythia, winter jasmine, creeping juniper, daphne, firethorn, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, pink pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old white magnolia and purple magnolia seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate michelia, Yulan magnolia, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scions from superior wintersweet cultivars for cut grafting and bag them to retain moisture, resulting in a relatively high survival rate; using triangular cactus as rootstock, grafting to propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus ball types, preferably carried out in plastic tunnels. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, podocarpus, creeping juniper, upright juniper, michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball viburnum, gardenia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid species, bleeding heart, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, sago palm, nandina, mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, sansevieria, purple triangular oxalis, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, dahlia, bird of paradise, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Yulan magnolia, tulip tree, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be carried out to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; transplanting wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, hibiscus, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc. is acceptable even after budding, but appropriate pruning should also be done. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient soil ball should be carried, and generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken manure and pigeon droppings, etc., or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, wintersweet, forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, for one-year-old branches, they can be cut at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through severe renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the next year. For camellia, sasanqua, etc., after flowering, branches that damage the plant shape can be pruned, and at the same time some thin and weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy can be pruned. For pomegranate, hibiscus, osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve ventilation and light conditions.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, they should be cut off promptly and destroyed, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, hanging crabapple, etc., spraying Bordeaux mixture promptly after leaf expansion can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew, rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: dianthus, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, variegated lilyturf, autumn zephyrlily, Chinese chive lily, iris, Reineckea carnea, Liriope, dwarf lilyturf, red-flowered oxalis, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or herbaceous flowers transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale and pansy, first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, hanging crabapple, Chaenomeles speciosa, firethorn, Japanese white pine, nandina, Chinese elm, trident maple, oak, Chinese fringe tree, etc. placed in the open, repotting can be done before they sprout and leaf out, replacing the soil with loose, fertile, fresh potting soil rich in organic matter to lay a good foundation for spring and summer growth. For white orchid, Aglaia, chloranthus, rose, jasmine, hibiscus, bird of paradise, sago palm, poinsettia, sasanqua, camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, monstera, Philodendron, clivia, Syngonium, Syngonium, arrowroot, etc. placed indoors, repotting should be done before they are moved out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and both cold protection and ventilation must be emphasized. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves sometimes move south, from early to mid-March, work to preserve heat and protect against cold must continue. In late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and closed at night, so that white orchid, Aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, hibiscus, poinsettia, monstera, Syngonium, rubber tree, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can gradually undergo hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that would affect growth and normal flowering that year. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, work to preserve heat and protect against cold must continue this month, and care must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor hibiscus, fuchsia, clerodendrum, jasmine, chloranthus, white orchid, sago palm, rubber tree, fish-tail palm, areca palm, croton, asparagus fern, and begonia species, carry out necessary pruning together with repotting, including cutting off diseased and pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, thin and weak branches, and some yellowed leaves, etc. For trident maple, podocarpus, true juniper, Huangshan pine, black pine, Chinese elm, Chinese fringe tree, oak, red nanmu, etc. mainly appreciated for their stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out in March before budding to further improve their shapes. For plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, forsythia, etc., severe renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, and it is also impossible for all to live on the first floor with a good small flower-growing environment. More often, people grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create an atmosphere of returning to nature for themselves.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their body surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick and contains more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration water consumption, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and are therefore very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cactus species (bunny ears cactus, peanut cactus, jade plant, golden barrel cactus, large columnar cactus, Astrophytum, rat-tail cactus, coral tree), purslane tree, jade plant, graptopetalum, echeveria, living stones, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, leaf cactus, kalanchoe, etc. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, Lycoris, silver bract taro, dumb cane, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, able to accept full light and resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, also suitable for balcony potted cultivation (especially on high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, banyan, stick lily, small-leaf privet, agave, amaryllis, Japanese boxthorn, oak, Chinese elm, trident maple, water willow, black pine, juniper, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Chinese holly, holly, Vitex, Euonymus, longevity peach, moss rose, etc. In addition, jasmine, chloranthus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia, Aspidistra, bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, monstera, Philodendron, camellia, schefflera, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can also be used as potted plants on lower balconies, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as scarlet sage, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, impatiens, petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of asparagus fern or clivia seeds has been collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and after the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as orchid cactus, epiphyllum, jade plant, graptopetalum, echeveria, purslane tree, coral tree, jade plant, etc. can be cut indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as cutting medium, and propagate by cuttings indoors at a relatively bright place by the windowsill: gardenia, fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, podocarpus, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, nandina, daphne, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot opening must be covered with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, pink pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging to retain moisture is necessary; otherwise survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation, and exposure to light, plants that need repotting should be repotted promptly. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases cause plant death. Measures can be taken such as building temporary shelters on site or moving them indoors or into tunnels for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For stumps such as wintersweet, Chinese holly, holly, black pine, Japanese white pine, podocarpus, trident maple, Chinese elm, Japanese boxthorn, water willow, small-leaf privet, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil replacement can be carried out; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist, water once every 3 to 5 days, and give appropriate spraying. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, forsythia, wintersweet, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be carried out after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Conduct a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cutting off branches and leaves infected by pests and diseases and destroying them; for dry and dead cut surfaces on stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture, etc. for preservative treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (prefabricated reinforced concrete) placed on top, using the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool. In summer, place some flowers that relatively like humid air on it, such as orchid species, monstera, green giant, Syngonium, Ardisia crenata, nandina, etc. The stored water is quite ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, while potted flowers have not yet been moved out, you can also first set up stepped shelves on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting and stock up on various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid air flow from the south becomes stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River does the harm of snow and frost remain. By after Guyu, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Huai River and Yangtze River, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for maintenance; but in areas north of the Huai River, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower tasks include the following:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower, four-o'clock, cockscomb, amaranthus, moss rose, dahlia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, impatiens, morning glory, cypress vine, round-leaf cypress vine, red-flowered tobacco, petunia, China aster, coreopsis, snake's head chrysanthemum, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia, asparagus fern, four-season primrose, nasturtium, Kochia, maple mallow, painted euphorbia, basil, asparagus, cosmos, sand ginseng, mimosa, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: white magnolia, Huangshan magnolia, Baohua magnolia, southern magnolia, Tianmu magnolia, Wudang magnolia, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis var. biloba, Oyama magnolia, Magnolia delavayi, Michelia, Manglietia, red-flowered Manglietia, Manglietia ruyuanensis, big-fruited Manglietia, Michelia champaca, michelia, many-flowered michelia, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunshanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia emeiensis, tulip tree, hybrid tulip tree, North American tulip tree, etc.; other greening flowers and trees that can be sown in April include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, golden larch, crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow, Huangshan goldenrain tree, soapberry, sweetgum, maple species, Ormosia, wintersweet, summer wintersweet, white rose, goji, nandina, Ardisia crenata, palm, etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown as collected in April include: Gerbera, asparagus fern, primrose, winter cherry, Fatsia japonica, and naranjilla, etc. Among them, Fatsia japonica can have fruits that have turned black, whitish, and soft picked at the end of April. After rubbing and washing out the seeds, sow them on fertile seedling beds, or first sand-store the seeds until they crack and show white, then sow, cover with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, after about 70% of the seeds have emerged, promptly remove the covering grass and set up shade; for cultivating naranjilla, peel off the skin of the picked golden-yellow fruit, wash out the seeds, soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, and sow in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seeds can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be potted for fruit viewing or planted in the ground as special cut flower material for cultivation.

   2. Grafting

Flower and tree species that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, dragon-claw pagoda tree, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered bristly locust, as well as cactus ball and Christmas cactus, etc.

    3. Division

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily (Spathiphyllum), snake plant (Sansevieria), cast-iron plant (Aspidistra), ferns, broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis), spider plant (Chlorophytum), agave, silver queen (Aglaonema), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), arrowroot family (Maranta/Calathea), aloe, peperomia, Swiss cheese plant (Monstera), Philodendron 'Spring Feather' and others. Ornamental plants that can be propagated by division in April include: daylily, Hosta, Anemarrhena, Iris, Canna, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Gesneriaceae, ginger family, Aspidistra, Ctenanthe and more. Plants that can be propagated by cuttings in April include: Dahlia, Hibiscus, beautiful dipladenia, Mandevilla, bougainvillea, crape myrtle, pomegranate, oleander, wintersweet, sweet olive, crape jasmine, lavender, etc. In addition, water lilies and lotus can also be divided and propagated at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most easy-to-root flowering shrubs and trees, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can be propagated by cuttings in April. The main species include: boxwood (Buxus), mahonia, heavenly bamboo (Nandina), cypress, podocarpus, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud (Cercis), firethorn (Pyracantha), spiraea, Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron), bridal wreath spirea (Spiraea prunifolia), winter daphne (Edgeworthia), flowering quince (Chaenomeles) and others.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and not too many roots are cut back during repotting, they can still be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out that for deciduous flowering shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossom, they must never be repotted after the leaves have unfurled.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting outdoor flowering shrubs and trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfurled or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a root ball in April. For evergreen shrubs and trees such as camphor tree, southern magnolia, Michelia and Michelia alba, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy. For deciduous shrubs and trees, it is best to transplant before the leaves unfurl, such as white magnolia, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc. Generally, the diameter of the root ball for transplanting should be no less than 6 times the trunk diameter of the transplanted plant. Only in this way, without damaging the root ball, can the transplanted plant be free from worry.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as podocarpus, emerald cypress (Juniperus), serissa (Serissa japonica), water willow (Adina), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Euonymus pendulus, crape myrtle, velvet cypress, flowering cypress, banyan, boxleaf holly (Ilex crenata), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), winter jasmine, winter daphne (Edgeworthia), ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper and others. Other species suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red bark tree (Syzygium), Chinese wingnut (Pterocarya), trident maple, oak (Quercus), galor wood, golden bullet tree (Diospyros), hall crabapple, Fujian tea (Carmona), papaya, Elaeagnus, holly (Ilex cornuta), golden larch, and tiger thorn (Damnacanthus).

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal or non-metal wire should be used promptly for continuous wiring, training and correction so that they can always maintain a good ornamental appearance. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: First, remove buds promptly. When the winter buds begin to swell and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on new shoots, all female cones at the tips of new shoots and male cones at the bases of new shoots should be promptly removed to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the time new shoots begin to elongate, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, and spraying instead of watering, to ensure that the new needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, azalea, winter jasmine, Forsythia, winter daphne, kumquat, bitter orange (Daidai), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Christmas cactus, Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered cymbidium, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae and others, because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when they resume growth after the weather warms, they need topdressing with nitrogen-based fertilizer, such as fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution, to promote their growth. For potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus, and Michelia alba, topdressing should likewise be applied, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate, with the concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted white magnolia, purple magnolia, Michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple and others after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in time to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some water, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot for planting. The money tree has extremely strong vitality; even if it cannot be braided or planted in time and is left spread out for 3 to 5 days, it will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjusting Plant Shape and Preventing Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Ornamental Fruit Potted Plants

For potted ornamental fruit plants that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, aucuba, hall crabapple and others, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally. Do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily to keep the cutting medium moist at all times, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual: Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Edition)

Weather characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China. After each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There is often continuous spring rain. After the spring rain ends around Xiaoman (Grain Full), the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a critical period for planting and caring for flowers, playing an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering shrubs that can be sown immediately after collection in May mainly include: Primula obconica, Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), mahonia, loquat, etc. May sowing and seedling raising should pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry. Second, cover the sowing bed with grass to retain moisture, preventing rapid changes in bed moisture that could cause seeds to "regress." Third, after seedlings emerge, remove the covering grass in several stages and promptly set up shade, so as not to scorch the young seedlings.

For osmanthus, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May. Mix with sand and rub off the flesh, rinse clean, then store in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them and to keep the sand moist.

For loquat sowing, the covering soil should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, azalea, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree (Erythrina), nasturtium, Jasminum molle, jasmine, Chloranthus, red mulberry (Acalypha), deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, butterfly bush (Buddleia), trumpet creeper, gardenia, epiphyllum, Epipremnum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, gem plant (Graptopetalum), Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia biondii, flowering quince, umbrella plant (Cyperus), lantana, red-back leaf (Excoecaria), shrimp plant (Justicia), gold-in-wrapped flower (Pachystachys), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum), Guangdong evergreen, Cordyline, pothos, Schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use 1- to 2-year-old potted purple magnolia seedlings or cutting seedlings for cleft grafting to propagate Michelia alba and Michelia figo; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and weeping maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old hairy azalea cutting seedlings for cleft grafting to propagate Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Chinese rose; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock for softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties, or potted rootstocks can be used for cleft grafting. In addition, cactus or triangular stem (Hylocereus) can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering shrubs and trees that can be propagated by air layering in May include: Michelia alba, rubber tree, Aglaia (Michelia), Western azalea, camellia, croton (Codiaeum), Michelia figo, red maple, etc. Those that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, podocarpus, osmanthus, trumpet creeper, etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, the vast majority of species must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom on schedule by late September to early October, thereby creating a joyful, lively and colorful festive atmosphere. The main species include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, aster, Kochia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, when white magnolia flowers have faded and just before new buds sprout and leaves unfurl, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering shrubs and trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant successfully can also be transplanted with a root ball in early May, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree (Albizia), etc.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spray water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a reservoir or small tank, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with the concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, azalea, rhododendron, gardenia, winter daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, red-flowered camellia, etc. Foliage plants include: sago palm, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', Swiss cheese plant, broadleaf lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, podocarpus, croton, red (green) gem (Dieffenbachia), green giant (Philodendron), green emperor (Philodendron), Syngonium, Calathea, bromeliads, Brazilian wood (Dracaena), money tree, Schefflera, etc. Ornamental fruit plants include: bitter orange (Daidai), firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand, lemon, heavenly bamboo, winter coral, Ardisia, etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For the cutback pruning of Michelia alba shortly after being moved out, special care must be taken because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface easily loses water, dries up and extends downward. For this reason, cut 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and never too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose, post-flowering pruning should moderately lower the height by 10 to 20 cm so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal: For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud; otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, the terminal bud should be promptly removed to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under shade frames or tree shade. Species include: Swiss cheese plant, broadleaf lady palm, Calathea, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink taro (Caladium), fan palm (Livistona), Syngonium, orchids, azalea, bird of paradise (Strelitzia), camellia, sasanqua, etc. For light-loving flowering shrubs and trees, full sunlight must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, Michelia alba, etc. Bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), trident maple, water willow, oak, serissa, black pine, soft pine, etc., require full sunlight. Podocarpus, tiger thorn, red bark tree, emerald cypress, five-needle pine, etc., can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, azalea, sasanqua, plum blossom, Aglaia, jasmine, Michelia alba, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, winter daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc., after flowers fade, remove spent flowers and withered stems, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with supplementary phosphorus, once every half month. While restoring their vegetative growth, this lays the foundation for producing flower buds again. For foliage-oriented species such as rubber tree, Swiss cheese plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', cast-iron plant, ferns, etc., apply fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edged snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-hearted Brazilian wood, croton, caladium, white butterfly Syngonium, pink taro, etc., a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar feed, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, rose (Rosa multiflora), and rugosa rose, attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot disease. For leaf-eating pests that appear, pesticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them. For citrus butterfly larvae???which often appear on bitter orange (Daidai), kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, rue, etc., pesticide should be sprayed early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be styled in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, mountain gardenia, podocarpus, serissa, emerald cypress, water willow, galor wood, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when styling, one must be careful and cautious, trying not to damage the bark and core of the branches; otherwise, it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, the plum rain season begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant, and for most bonsai, maintenance should be especially careful, lest excessive rain causes root rot, or insufficient light causes runaway growth that disrupts the styling or affects the normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering shrubs and trees that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, cycad (Cycas), loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be harvested. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule and extract the seeds. First soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours. After the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, at which point sow in furrows. The covering soil thickness is generally 2 to 3 cm. Cover with rice straw to retain moisture. After most seedlings' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages and promptly set up shade.

    2. Cuttings

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in flowering shrub branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation of flowering shrubs and trees. There are two major categories of flowering shrubs and trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, Michelia figo, holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), lilac, purple magnolia, flowering quince, snowball (Viburnum), Japanese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), coral tree (Viburnum), coral tree (Erythrina), Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, etc. The other category consists of species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, Forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine (Jasminum), serissa, pomegranate, hibiscus syriacus, broom (Caragana), jasmine, Chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl (Clerodendrum), lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, podocarpus, heavenly bamboo, trumpet creeper, red-back leaf, honeysuckle, hibiscus, Cordyline, Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, golden silk willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian iron, Ardisia crenata, winter daphne (Edgeworthia), croton, deutzia, mock orange (Philadelphus), crape myrtle, Weigela, Weigela florida, snowball (Hydrangea), peach-leaf aucuba, Schefflera, mahonia, Japanese aralia, bridal wreath spirea, hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. Also included are a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-claw golden dragon (Ipomoea), ivy (Parthenocissus), nasturtium, violet (Viola), Qianqiu tea (alternanthera), heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking the fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting of camellia and osmanthus as an example: The cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the softwood of osmanthus and camellia is semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in a 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution, briefly air-dried, then inserted into the seedbed. The insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches over the seedbed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up double-layer shade for light blocking, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally, after one month, the cuttings will root abundantly.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: Use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior varieties of wintersweet; use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock to graft Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc. Bud grafting: Use wild rose seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), plum blossom, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple (Acer), etc. Branch grafting: Use oil tea, red-flowered camellia, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock for branch grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy azaleas as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering shrubs and trees that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball (Viburnum), Japanese snowball, Weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia, Chloranthus, jasmine, Michelia alba, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: sword fern (Nephrolepis), calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia), bromeliads, Haworthia, cast-iron plant, spider plant, Acorus, golden-edged lilyturf (Liriope), etc.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf stock (Matthiola), tall stock, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, pocketbook plant (Calceolaria), amaryllis (sow immediately after collection), etc.

    Flowering shrub and tree seeds that can be collected in June: After wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate. Peach, apricot, etc. should be sown immediately after collection, or their seeds stored in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground. Osmanthus seeds collected in June, after removing the fleshy fruit skin and washing clean, should be stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the embryo, and when they germinate, select a nursery site for sowing.

    2. Transplanting/Establishment and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting/establishment or potting. They are: evening primrose, spider flower (Cleome), balsam, New Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red tobacco (Nicotiana), petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass (Alternanthera), etc.

Entering summer, some large flowering shrubs and trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Japanese aralia, mahonia, Mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a root ball is also acceptable, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just don't let the tree know." But after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time, preferably at 10 AM or 5 PM; under normal circumstances, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, water temperature, which should be basically consistent with the pot soil temperature. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the roots and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth. Third, combine watering and spraying. During weather with no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pots, also spray water on the leaf surfaces and around the potted flowers to increase local humidity. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray based on the moisture condition of the pot soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red-flowered oxalis, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia, etc. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced and the pot soil kept merely moist. Deeply dormant species such as: cyclamen, Lycoris (species), ranunculus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperatures show aboveground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, overwintering in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the pot soil kept from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively check the potted flowers. If standing water is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible. After the pot soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers on their sides, and after the rain stops, set them upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as Swiss cheese plant, spider plant, Syngonium, Calathea, sword fern, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', sago palm, cast-iron plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-back leaf, broadleaf lady palm, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian iron, podocarpus, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Michelia alba, Aglaia, jasmine, Chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, winter daphne, azalea, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange (Daidai), lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently in bloom, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to meet their needs for growth, flowering and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant or semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel tail (Sedum), Lampranthus, Stapelia, Sedum, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning: For vigorously growing species such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), podocarpus, Fujian tea (Carmona), true cypress, emerald cypress, water willow, Chinese juniper, holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches that affect the styling should be pruned or cut back early. This can keep the plant well-layered and good-looking, promote more short shoots and new buds, and form a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal: For flowers such as Aglaia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Chinese rose, etc., spent flowers and withered stems should be promptly removed, and flowered branches appropriately cut back to promote the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flowering shrubs and trees such as Michelia alba, bitter orange (Daidai), azalea, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple, etc., in order to promote a good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers and better flowers in the current or following year, the overly vigorous branches should be pinched and buds removed to inhibit the growth of terminal and lateral shoots and promote lateral bud sprouting.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering shrubs and trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under shade frames to prevent damage from intense sunlight. Such as: hosta, purple hosta (Hosta), asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchids, broadleaf lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium, pink taro, Philodendron 'Spring Feather', pothos, Peperomia, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, winter daphne, cast-iron plant, spider plant, etc. Light-loving flower species must be given sufficient sunlight, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, serissa, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), water willow, oak, black pine, brocade pine, Michelia alba, Aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, grape, etc. Podocarpus, tiger thorn, heavenly bamboo, Buddha belly bamboo, Guanyin bamboo, five-needle pine, podocarpus (Podocarpus), etc. can be given appropriate shade.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, emerald cypress, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, podocarpus, crabapple, etc. are susceptible to damage from trunk-boring longhorn beetles. Promptly use poisoned plugs to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, rose (Rosa multiflora), rugosa rose, etc. are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot disease during the plum rain season. Spray Bordeaux mixture early for prevention and control.

(3) Michelia alba, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are susceptible to aphid damage. Promptly select suitable pesticides for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are susceptible to anthracnose infection. Spray carbendazim and other fungicides early for prevention and control.

(5) Bitter orange (Daidai), lemon, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc. have tender leaves susceptible to feeding by citrus butterfly larvae. Spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant species that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted in early spring for hardening or planted in the ground. They are: podocarpus, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huashan pine, emerald cypress, Chinese juniper, holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), goji berry, five-needle pine, hall crabapple, Xifu crabapple, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, serissa, black pine, boxleaf holly (Ilex crenata), Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. Styling in June must be careful, with light wiring and slow bending. Never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 is Mangzhong (Grain in Ear); June 21 is Xiazhi (Summer Solstice).

Flower Planting Manual (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain season ends in the Jianghuai region. July 16 marks the beginning of the dog days (Fu), and August 15 marks their end, with most parts of the country entering the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Yangtze-Huai River it is 28°C. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have average July temperatures below 20°C. July flower care mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, Primula obconica, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increased ventilation and light.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, peach, mountain peach, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), etc. can also be collected. After washing off the flesh, sow immediately in furrows, or store the washed stone fruits in moist sand until they crack and then sow. Wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after collection, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsule can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria, begonia, coleus, Pilea, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, peperomia, Epipremnum, Polygonum, kalanchoe, pothos, etc.
    Woody flowering plant species suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-back leaf, heavenly bamboo, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum, Hypericum patulum, Weigela, hydrangea, Weigela florida, snowball (Hydrangea), bridal wreath spirea, winter daphne, gardenia, winter daphne (Edgeworthia), Magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, Aglaia, jasmine, Chloranthus, Schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, firethorn, Cordyline, hibiscus, serissa, Michelia figo, coral tree (Viburnum), rubber tree, Japanese snowball, Viburnum, boxwood, fig, purple magnolia, osmanthus, azalea, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden silk willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, some flowering shrubs and trees can also be propagated by water cutting. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus syriacus, etc. To propagate flowering shrubs and trees by water cutting: First, prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, perforated for use as fixing material for cuttings. Second, keep the cutting water clean; a few pieces of charcoal can be added for anti-rot purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedling rootstocks of mountain peach or peach can be used for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), purple-leaf plum, beauty plum (Prunus), etc. Use cutting seedlings of wild rose, pink cluster rose, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses and rugosa roses, etc. Use potted purple magnolia and white magnolia seedlings as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc. Use 2-year-old potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock for cleft grafting to propagate superior varieties of wintersweet. Alternatively, use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock, adopt the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, and graft at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground. After 7 to 10 days, it can be determined whether they have survived. Use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy azaleas as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea. Use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior flowering cherry varieties. Use current-year seedling rootstocks of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, hall crabapple, or crabapple for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior crabapple varieties. Use Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock for bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering shrubs and trees that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet creeper, Japanese snowball, oleander, Weigela, broom (Caragana), osmanthus, gardenia, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus, climbing rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta (Hosta), Acorus, umbrella plant, cast-iron plant, purple-backed oyster plant (Tradescantia), bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, Liriope, Reineckea, Zephyranthes, sword fern (Nephrolepis), iris, Tradescantia, etc. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment
    1. Seed Collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, Coreopsis, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus, etc.
    Flowering shrub and tree seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, peach, mountain peach, flowering almond (Prunus triloba), etc.
    2. Transplanting/Establishment and Potting
    July is the main period for potting herbaceous flowers displayed during National Day. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedling or cutting plants. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, small dahlia, New Guinea impatiens, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia, aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with a root ball is also feasible, such as mahonia, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, aucuba, dragon juniper ball, etc. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade frames set up promptly, and the frequency of misting increased. After they have basically survived, shift to normal management. Never be careless.
III. Flower Management
    1. Watering
Flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as red-flowered oxalis (Oxalis), geraniums (Pelargonium), fuchsia, clivia (Clivia miniata), calla lily (Zantedeschia), begonias (Begonia), sedum (Sedum), kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), cacti (Cactaceae), Haworthia, Stapelia gigantea, string of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus), Senecio radicans, Daphne odora, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), Portulacaria afra, aloe (Aloe), etc. Because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low, so watering should be reduced to keep the potting soil moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it can easily cause root rot and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
Flower species that enter a deep dormant state at high temperatures, such as cyclamen (Cyclamen), Lycoris, Ranunculus asiaticus, Dicentra spectabilis, etc., show withered aboveground stems and leaves in July, and the underground nutrient fibrous roots die off, surviving the summer as dormant underground stems or tuberous roots in the soil. For deeply dormant flowers, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should just be kept from becoming too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Michelia alba, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Maranta, Syngonium, red (green) gem (Fittonia), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Calathea roseopicta, Dracaena fragrans (Brazilian iron), Pachira aquatica (money tree), camellia (Camellia japonica), Camellia sasanqua, Aucuba japonica, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium var. amara, lemon (Citrus limon), Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate (Punica granatum), redbud (Cercis chinensis), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but the leaves should also be sprayed with water appropriately, combining watering and spraying. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be carried out, and no carelessness is allowed. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand upright, then water the roots. Never pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it can very easily cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the rot of the plants' nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
For potted plum (Prunus mume) bonsai, since July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be applied to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves of the potted plant slightly curled inward on both sides to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot puts out 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon; watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is advisable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain, and pour off any accumulated water in the pots in time. After the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of the potted plants.
    2. Fertilization
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants for which fertilization management should be strengthened. First, types with a particularly long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Michelia alba, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; second, types that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), etc.; third, types grown in winter for their flowers and fruits, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, nandina (Nandina domestica), wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), rhododendron (Rhododendron), etc.; fourth, foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the application method, thin liquid fertilizer poured on is preferable.
    In July, the herbaceous flowers for which fertilization should be strengthened include: scarlet sage (Salvia splendens, in white, purple and pink), cockscomb (Celosia argentea), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), chrysanthemum, Rudbeckia hirta, petunia (Petunia), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), shrimp flower (Pachystachys lutea), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), marigold (Tagetes erecta), four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), pomegranate, poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), Michelia figo, osmanthus, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), Chinese rose, crabapple (Malus), Brunfelsia, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), cotton rose, etc. There are relatively many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads (Bromeliaceae), Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Maranta, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia 'Red Gem', sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, fertilization must be stopped; especially for those succulent ornamental plants, such as sedum (Sedum), Senecio (Kleinia), Mesembryanthemum, Stapelia, etc., fertilization must be stopped even more, to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the tender terminal buds at the tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea (bird plum), Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, Ilex crenata (box-leaved holly), wintersweet, Pyracantha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, tamarisk (Tamarix chinensis), Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, Celtis sinensis, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple (Acer buergerianum), crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, Murraya paniculata, etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of a new shoot to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds, so that it forms beautiful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are not convenient for finger pinching, such as juniper (Juniperus rigida), Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Quercus acutissima, Ilex cornuta, and Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', etc.
For those potted flower species that continue to bloom over a long period, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, etc., their spent flowers and withered stems should be removed in time, and the branches that have flowered should be given the necessary shortening pruning, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and a second bloom. For rhododendron, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum blossom, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the most intense sunlight and the highest temperatures of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from the scorching sun. Such as ferns (Polypodiopsida), hosta (Hosta), purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), Monstera deliciosa, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae), orchids (Orchidaceae), Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Calathea roseopicta, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Peperomia, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, bromeliads, Maranta, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, Pyracantha, jasmine, Serissa japonica, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, peach (Prunus persica), plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Adina rubella, Quercus acutissima, Pinus parviflora, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. For Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus indicus, Asparagus setaceus, Rhapis humilis, five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), etc., it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature and shallow-pot bonsai, since the temperature is too high this month and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, somewhat tolerant of dry environments and with strong resistance, should be chosen, such as rubber tree, Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), Mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus, Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), Rhapis excelsa, Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), bromeliads, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, Aspidistra elatior, Aucuba japonica, etc. Species such as sword fern (Nephrolepis), coleus (Coleus), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, etc., are not suitable. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner outlets, to prevent the wind from blowing directly on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are prone to infection by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wilt and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or folpet at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum blossom, peach, crabapple, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), cherry blossom (Prunus serrulata), Prunus triloba, etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle (Aromia bungii) boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injecting systemic insecticides, inserting poison sticks, and burying carbofuran in the soil can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate, omethoate, etc. must not be used, to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, timely control should be carried out against the boxwood leaf-roller moth (Diaphania perspectalis) that harms Ilex crenata, Buxus bodinieri, Buxus harlandii and Buxus sinica var. parvifolia. When this pest occurs severely, it can eat all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly (Papilio xuthus) will continue to harm the leaves of new shoots of Citrus aurantium var. amara, kumquat (Fortunella), Glycosmis, finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, Citrus wilsonii and rue (Ruta graveolens). Timely spray stomach-poison insecticides to kill them.
(5) For the white wax insect (Ericerus pela) that harms Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Fraxinus chinensis and Fraxinus chinensis var. acuminata, late July to late August is its emergence period. The right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing harm again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus) is a major pest harming Euonymus japonicus, Platanus orientalis, Pittosporum tobira, camellia, red-leaf plum, cedar (Cedrus deodara), etc. In severe cases, the insects often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, so promptly spray pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches and twigs are prone to infection by pathogens after injury and do not heal and recover easily, so most tree-stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and shaping. Those still able to be shaped are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they are required to be plants that were potted in spring for hardening off or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Calocedrus macrolepis, Serissa japonica, black pine, Ilex crenata, Adina rubella, etc.
    In July, plant shaping must be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly and applying force gradually; do not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the branches and trunk of the plant to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7, Minor Heat; July 23, Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    August, with high temperatures, strong light and low humidity, is the hot, dry period second only to July in the year, with the monthly average temperature in most parts of the country between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among them, woody flowers mainly include: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus parviflora, five-needle pine, golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Japanese golden larch (Sciadopitys verticillata), lacebark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), Armand pine (Pinus armandii), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, Chinese hibiscus, Lantana camara, coral tree (Erythrina), Yucca elephantipes, Croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica (money tree), Schefflera actinophylla, plumeria (Plumeria rubra), Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', oleander (Nerium oleander), Washingtonia, Trachycarpus fortunei, bottle palm (Hyophorbe lagenicaulis), Mahonia bealei, Japanese aralia, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', scarlet sage, dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), China aster, Begonia 'Erythrophylla', dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold (Tagetes patula), phlox (Phlox drummondii), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), cockscomb, pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), Lycoris, periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), four o'clock flower, zinnia, etc. In addition, there are Aspidistra elatior, Aglaonema modestum, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), Prunus triloba, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), summer wintersweet (Calycanthus floridus), American summer wintersweet (Calycanthus floridus var. glaucus), Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Pomegranate grown for its fruit is harvested after the fruit ripens and cracks; rub and wash off the fleshy layer outside the seeds, store in sand until germination, then sow. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath (Gypsophila), Linanthus, petunia, snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), oxalis (Oxalis), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), Dalmatian chrysanthemum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium), etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria (Calceolaria), cyclamen, cineraria (Pericallis hybrida), wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), Chinese primrose (Primula obconica), coleus, pot marigold, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate of alkaline-leached rice husk ash and wet fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, carry out moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings to propagate the following flower and tree species: Pyracantha, Mahonia, wintersweet, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball (Viburnum plicatum), Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, Osmanthus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Schefflera, Cordyline fruticosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliiflora, etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the substrate, cuttings can be taken of Buxus, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly (Viburnum tinus), golden-edged privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium 'Aureum'), Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', nandina, fig (Ficus carica), oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), etc. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth and marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc. can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower and tree grafting can be carried out: in northern regions, use Chionanthus retusus as the rootstock and side-graft osmanthus; use Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as the rootstock and side-graft Michelia alba; use the current-year seedling of wild peach as the rootstock and bud-graft plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, etc.; use cherry seedling as the rootstock and bud-graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) and Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis as rootstocks and bud-graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, etc. seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft Malus spectabilis and Malus halliana; use green maple as the rootstock and top-graft red maple and lace-leaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as the rootstock and branch-graft variegated weeping fig (Ficus benjamina 'Variegata'); use single-petaled camellia as the rootstock and branch-graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and branch-graft or side-graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, the split-grafting method can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), Rosa banksiae, climbing rose, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, oleander, gardenia, broom (Caragana), winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia figo, Chinese hibiscus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra elatior, Cyperus alternifolius, Adina pilulifera, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', iris (Iris), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), Oxalis triangularis, Aglaonema modestum, Aster novi-belgii, Acorus gramineus, sword fern, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Maranta, Syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia (Freesia), etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, when some flowering shrubs are transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented with heavy pruning, shading, watering, spraying and other management should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be achieved, such as golden-leaf privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', golden-edged Platycladus orientalis, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, Hypericum, Mahonia, Japanese aralia, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Michelia figo, Chinese juniper ball, Sabina chinensis ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Aucuba japonica, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and established, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower, etc., and they can be expected to bloom in September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, continue pruning the hedges in the courtyard, such as boxwood, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum lucidum, golden-leaf privet, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, etc. For ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, bayberry (Myrica rubra), Pyracantha, Pittosporum tobira, Ilex cornuta, holly (Ilex), etc., pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously over a long period, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., spent flowers should be removed in time, and the branch tips should be given moderate shortening pruning. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, Tagetes patula, marigold, etc., tip pruning and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers established in the ground, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are bound with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously, ensuring that the roots do not accumulate water.
4. Fertilization. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered Loropetalum, golden-edged (golden-hearted) boxwood, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', golden-leaf privet, Prunus x cistena, Croton, red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', etc., in order to keep their leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied. For continuously blooming species such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana camara, etc., and for species about to bloom such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn peony (Anemone hupehensis), etc., an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed through leaf fertilization.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on cedar, Ligustrum lucidum, Pittosporum tobira, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, etc., promptly spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control. For chrysanthemum beetle, aphids, etc. occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution to kill them. For larvae such as the rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm (Spodoptera litura) that chew Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, Prunus triloba, red-flowered camellia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, summer wintersweet, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony (Paeonia lactiflora), sun rose (Portulaca grandiflora), four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum), etc.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), Begonia masoniana, Begonia rex, etc., water droplets falling on the leaf surface do not evaporate easily and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the clivia leaf rosette also must not be drenched with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and misted more, and water should be poured into the leaf tank, only then can their needs be met. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, watering and spraying should be controlled, just enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist, and a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them by spraying water on the small environment around the flower pots.
2. Fertilization. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, rubber tree, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Norfolk Island pine, Arecastrum romanzoffianum, Phoenix roebelenii, Areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), Caryota, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Dracaena fragrans, Yucca elephantipes, Pachira aquatica (money tree), sword fern, Cordyline, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (Ping'an wood), Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, Calathea roseopicta, Schefflera, Aucuba japonica, Chamaedorea elegans, Croton, Japanese aralia, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special fertilizer for flowers, or cake fertilizer water. For species with a long flowering period, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., and for fruit-bearing Citrus aurantium var. amara, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata (rich seeds), Pyracantha, Diospyros cathayensis (golden bullet), fruiting pomegranate, nandina, papaya (Chaenomeles), etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate, etc. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, marigold, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, dwarf sunflower, etc., thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower and tree species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, rhododendron, etc., low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, spray the leaves with water once promptly after fertilizing, to wash away any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in a dormant or semi-dormant state, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, Daphne odora, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus, sedum, Oxalis triangularis, cacti, ball cacti, etc., all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', rubber tree, Areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, Maranta, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Rhapis excelsa, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchids, Calathea roseopicta, Peperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), begonias, lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, purple hosta, etc., shading with a shed can continue to be provided, pulling on the shade net at 9 a.m. and removing it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue tip pruning or pruning for those tree-stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning and sprout easily, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Ilex crenata, etc. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., carry out shortening pruning after each bloom. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud stripping and bud removal?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control should be carried out against pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, peach red-necked longhorn beetle, etc. Attention should be paid to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, leaf blight, etc. Attention should be paid to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, stem borers, etc.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and hot, dry air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have been placed on the balcony for a long time can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus parviflora, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, Ilex crenata, Platycladus orientalis stump, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Quercus acutissima, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave (Agave), Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. In August, some of the flowers and trees on the balcony can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad (Zamia), Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Maranta, Areca palm, Queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), Philodendron 'Little Angel', Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, pothos, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica (money tree), clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, shrimp flower (Pachystachys lutea), Dracaena fragrans, Japanese aralia, etc.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to keep moisture for cuttings of some ornamental plants. The cutting substrate can be rice husk ash mixed with fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Begonia 'Erythrophylla', gardenia, shrimp flower (Pachystachys lutea), coral flower (Justicia carnea), Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, jasmine, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Michelia figo, etc. For the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated indoors, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera, Aucuba japonica, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, plumeria, geranium, Aglaonema modestum, fuchsia, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying of balcony potted flowers must be done carefully and cautiously. First, avoid too great a difference between the water temperature and the soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of the potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water, to meet the needs of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a simple sand bed can be built with bricks, filled with 10 cm of wet sand, and then some potted flowers that prefer moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Little Angel', camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, Fittonia 'Red (Green) Gem', Chloranthus spicatus, etc. Usually spraying water instead of watering is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, etc., they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, spraying water instead of watering, to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Ilex crenata, trident maple, black pine, Pinus parviflora, wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina rubella, agave, sago palm, etc., water can be given 1 to 2 times a day, and spraying 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilization. In August, stop fertilization for balcony potted plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea solution can be sprayed or poured on, or multi-element compound fertilizer granules can be scattered on the pot surface. For flowers and trees grown mainly for their flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Pyracantha, finger citron, kumquat, etc., quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied continuously. For Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, Ilex crenata, etc., after each pruning, a thin fertilizer can be applied once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Fujian tea, plum blossom, trident maple, etc., soft grass, moss or wet cloth can be spread over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, a shade net can be used to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowers and trees on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most of the tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, Quercus acutissima, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Ligustrum quihoui, Ilex crenata, Pyracantha, etc., tip pruning or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, withered stems, dead branches and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mite damage is most likely to appear on the balcony, and it should be promptly sprayed with 25% Omite wettable powder at 1500 times dilution to kill it. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers and trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, it is advisable to spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution to kill them.

Flower Planting Handbook (September Chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, the temperature in most parts of our country slowly declines, with the monthly average temperature between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Yucca elephantipes, Croton, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica (money tree), Schefflera actinophylla, Rhapis excelsa, plumeria, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese aralia, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, Caryota, Areca palm, Queen palm, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, red maple, South American cycad, spruce (Picea), Schefflera, Garcinia (Clusiaceae), Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch (Grevillea robusta), Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, Cordyline, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, Begonia 'Erythrophylla', marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's mouth flower, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, Michelia, Magnolia, Manglietia, horse chestnut (Aesculus), summer wintersweet, Canary Island date palm, etc. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, with the hilum facing down when sowing, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, then covered with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing in the ground, and seedlings will emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for summer wintersweet, which can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), dianthus (Dianthus), Silene armeria, Silene pendula, pansy (Viola tricolor), snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy (Bellis perennis), corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas), pot marigold, Rudbeckia hirta, iris, verbena (Verbena), etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, Tropaeolum, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, calceolaria, can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting substrate, flower and tree species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: Pyracantha, Mahonia, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, Weigela, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, Weigela florida, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Odontonema, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: Buxus, Magnolia liliiflora, Hypericum, Spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, French holly, golden-edged privet, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa japonica, gardenia, Japanese aralia, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flower and tree grafting propagation can be carried out: use peony root segments as the rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use wild peach, apricot, etc. seedlings as rootstocks and bud-graft to propagate Prunus triloba, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, etc.; use green maple seedlings as the rootstock and bag-moisture-retaining branch-graft red maple, lace-leaf maple, etc.; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as the rootstock and side-graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as the rootstock and bud-graft kumquat, etc.; use Chionanthus retusus as the rootstock and side-graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and side-graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Michelia figo, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema modestum, Oxalis triangularis, Rudbeckia laciniata, snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', sword fern, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, Liriope 'Silver Dragon', Aspidistra elatior, Liriope platyphylla, etc. In addition, hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), tulip (Tulipa), freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, Scilla peruviana, etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there are special circumstances, flowers and trees are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise of having good soil balls. Species such as: oleander, Chinese juniper, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis, osmanthus, camellia, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', golden-leaf privet, Buxus, Hypericum, French holly, red-flowered Loropetalum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and strengthening watering, spraying and shading management, only then can the transplanting be guaranteed to be completely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be established in the ground or potted, for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, small dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning the vigorously growing courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants with strong sprouting ability; this is also the last pruning of the year for ball-shaped plants in northern regions during the growing season. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning are: Buxus, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', golden-leaf privet, golden-edged Platycladus orientalis, etc. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning are: Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha, Forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be tip-pruned and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia scoparia, marigold, Tagetes patula, etc. It is advisable to pinch once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and to produce more inflorescences on the lateral tips, and stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously over a long period, such as variety Chinese rose, floribunda rose, miniature rose, climbing rose, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana camara, bougainvillea, etc., promptly cut off spent flowers and withered stems, and give the branches that have flowered moderate shortening pruning, which can effectively promote them to bloom again.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw rope wound around the trunk to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunk; third, spray water on the crown to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of spraying water to retain moisture.
4. Fertilization. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', red maple, red-flowered Loropetalum, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', Croton, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), Prunus x cistena, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep their leaf color always bright, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied. For ground-planted flowers and trees that bloom continuously or are grown in autumn for their flowers and fruits, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Calamondin, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana camara, nandina, Pyracantha, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, etc., as well as a large number of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, golden osmanthus, etc. that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth (Thosea) that harms crape myrtle, Pyracantha, crabapple and other flowers and trees, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution for control; for the star longhorn beetle that harms crape myrtle, papaya, crabapple, insert poison sticks at the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew, etc. appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, use 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution for control in the early stage of the disease.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower and tree species of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Magnolia sieboldii, Michelia figo, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia denudata, Michelia 'Yunshanbailan', Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, Magnolia grandiflora, etc. In addition, there are horse chestnut, crape myrtle, lilac (Syringa), crabapple, redbud, Exochorda, yew (Taxus), Chimonanthus nitens, etc. Magnoliaceae, as well as yew, horse chestnut, crabapple, etc., must all have their seeds stored in wet sand after treatment until early spring of the following year, and then sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia (Zinnia elegans), garden balsam, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower (Helichrysum bracteatum), China aster, etc. After collection, thresh promptly and dry-store until spring of the following year for sowing.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers cannot be neglected. As for watering frequency, for general moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate leaf spraying. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by leaf spraying. Watering time should be before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer and resume growth after autumn, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or spraying). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil of the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is the period when most flowers are growing vigorously. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as temperatures gradually cool, so great attention should be paid to fertilizing management this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (money tree), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Caryota mitis, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), red (green) gem (Ficus robusta), green emperor (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema commutatum), Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), etc., still mainly apply low-concentration dilute fertilizer solution, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flower and tree species with an especially long flowering period or those whose peak flowering season is autumn, such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), Lantana camara, five-color sage (Lantana camara), pomegranate, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Milan (Aglaia odorata), white orchid (Michelia alba), jasmine, four-season osmanthus, daily-fragrant osmanthus, sweet osmanthus, etc.; for fruit ornamental plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha), papaya, golden bullet tree (Diospyros cathayensis), Callicarpa, fruit pomegranate, etc.; and for colored-leaf plants such as croton (Codiaeum variegatum), spotted aucuba (Aucuba japonica var. variegata), bromeliads, variegated banyan (Ficus benjamina var. variegata), golden-edged Brazilian wood, Cordyline fruticosa, coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides), etc., nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium balanced fertilizer types should be top-dressed. For Fuchsia, geranium, calla lily, cyclamen, wax begonia, Daphne odora, Christmas cactus, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (jade leaf), purple triangular oxalis, Clivia, Epiphyllum, etc., which are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed as a drench; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud swelling stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, Michelia figo, rhododendron, etc., low-concentration nutritionally balanced fertilizer types can be top-dressed; for potted herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, marigold, chrysanthemum, China aster, dahlia, dwarf sunflower, etc., a light fertilizer can be top-dressed once every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, temperatures are still relatively high and sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, sword fern (Nephrolepis), Boston fern, bird's nest fern, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, pothos, lady palm, green emperor, silver queen, orchids, Dieffenbachia, Queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), Aspidistra, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, small angel (Philodendron 'Congo'), red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, red-veined shrimp plant (Justicia carnea), asparagus fern, Schefflera, variegated brake fern (Pteris multifida var.), watermelon peperomia, variegated dumb cane (Dieffenbachia), green giant (Philodendron), anthurium, staghorn fern, mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), Adina pilulifera, king palm (Archontophoenix), lucky bamboo, etc., through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light per day; for light-loving species such as trident maple, Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), ginkgo, water myrtle (Adina rubella), black pine, Chinese arborvitae (platycladus) (stump), Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Milan, jasmine, firethorn, Chinese rose, oak (Quercus), Chinese fringe tree (Fraxinus chinensis), etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine, tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), red nan (Syzygium buxifolium), ? tree, night-blooming cereus, heavenly bamboo, jade tree (Crassula ovata), rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, fingered citron, bitter orange, kumquat, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted autumn herbaceous flowers in pots, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent wilting and affect their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do a good job of bud removal and disbudding; for Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Milan, jasmine, Chloranthus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, gold-bracted flower (Pachystachys lutea), coral flower (Justicia carnea), etc., pruning should be carried out after each flowering; for those stump bonsai species that are tolerant of pruning, easy to sprout and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), trident maple, Fujian tea, banyan tree, red nan, small-leaf privet, water myrtle, boxleaf euonymus (Buxus sinica), Chinese arborvitae (stump), true cypress (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese fringe tree, tamarisk, etc., continue to prune or pinch buds. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into a "braid" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, flowering peach and other plants, poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or control can be carried out by burying carbofuran granules. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc., appearing on potted flowers and trees, use 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant potted flowers and trees can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora 'Aurea'), red pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, water myrtle, trident maple, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), wintersweet, ornamental pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, banyan tree, bougainvillea, Chinese rose, agave, ginkgo, Milan, jasmine, Chinese hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Buddhist pine, Siberian elm (Ulmus pumila), snow-in-June (Serissa japonica), firethorn, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as large-flowered cymbidium, Oncidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, spider orchid (Brassia), Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, etc.; while for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as lady palm, Monstera deliciosa, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), Caryota mitis, king coconut (Cocos nucifera), Ptychosperma, spotted aucuba, Schefflera, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers and plants In September, on the balcony you can continue to use large-diameter flower pots as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half rice chaff ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and can cuttings-propagate some ornamental plants, such as gardenia, Cordyline fruticosa, spotted aucuba, Schefflera, daily-fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus, jasmine, red-backed excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), coral flower, gold-bracted flower, Michelia figo, silver queen aglaonema (Aglaonema commutatum), etc. You can also water-propagate Schefflera, Chinese rose, gardenia, fig, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), etc. indoors.
Management of balcony flowers and plants
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer relatively moist conditions, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, small angel, Chloranthus, bromeliads, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats resting on a balcony water basin or water vat, or placed in a self-built simple sand pool, and usually misting can replace watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, more misting and less watering should also be done, so as to keep the pot soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be sprayed at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, you can continue to water once a day and mist 1 to 2 times, or use the immersion method to prevent the phenomenon of wet on top and dry below in the pot soil. Watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, and note that the water temperature should not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, low-concentration liquid fertilizer should also be appropriately applied; for vigorously growing potted stump plants, a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowers and trees mainly for flower and fruit viewing, such as white orchid, Chinese rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, firethorn, fingered citron, kumquat, etc., continue to top-dress quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, sweet osmanthus, chrysanthemum, etc., according to different species, appropriately apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium balanced multi-element compound fertilizer. The types of fertilizer top-dressed for flowers and trees on the balcony should not have peculiar smells, especially not foul odors, and when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the pot soil, you can continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when there are not many potted flowers, you can move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, you can continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for the stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, water myrtle, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, banyan tree, Fujian tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), small-leaf privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowers and trees, dead branches, yellow leaves, residual flowers and withered stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowers and trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed with 25% Bileba wettable powder 1500 times solution; for the double-striped cedar longhorn beetle appearing on dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, and creeping juniper bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya, longevity peach and other flowers and trees, you can continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, firethorn, crape myrtle, wintersweet and other flowers and trees, when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October chapter)

Flowers and plants suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), white bark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), spruce species, Buddhist pine, podocarpus (Podocarpus macrophyllus), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), Dutch iron (Yucca), Fagraea fragrans, Lanyu cinnamon (Cinnamomum kotoense), sweet osmanthus, cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), rubber tree, Schefflera, variegated banyan, hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), golden larch (Pseudolarix), croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, lady palm, ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), broadleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica), spotted aucuba, thick-leaf fig (Ficus), Caryota mitis, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline fruticosa, beautiful phoenix palm (Phoenix roebelenii), fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose (Adenium obesum), South American cycad (Zamia), Fukugi (Garcinia subelliptica), large Buddha-belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), red maple, silver birch (Grevillea robusta), Milan, white orchid, pandanus (Pandanus), orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), heavenly bamboo, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-node begonia, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), French marigold, marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), globe amaranth, dwarf petunia, Guinea impatiens, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flowers planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers and plants

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, horse chestnut species (Aesculus), summer wintersweet (Calycanthus), Ardisia, soapberry (Sapindus), kuding tea (Ilex kudingcha), Buddhist pine, podocarpus, French holly (Viburnum), Elaeocarpus, beautiful phoenix palm, yew (Taxus), fan palm (Livistona), privet, small-leaf privet, camphor tree, Weigela, windmill palm (Trachycarpus), pond cypress (Taxodium), etc. Among them, when sowing horse chestnut, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing summer wintersweet, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Apart from summer wintersweet and Weigela seeds, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, for the above seeds, after cleaning the seeds, store them with wet sand to promote germination until the seed grains crack and show white in the next spring before sowing. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the water content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released; the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination promotion process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, Dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy (Parthenocissus), blackberry lily (Belamcanda), dwarf catchfly (Silene), tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, dwarf petunia, cineraria, four-season primula, African daisy (Gerbera), calceolaria, can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-backed excoecaria, Schefflera, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), Lantana camara, firethorn, mahonia, fingered citron, clerodendrum (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, aucuba, hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea), golden-leaf privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Weigela, snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), red-flowered spiraea, bridal wreath (Spiraea), St. John's wort (Hypericum), red-leaf plum, Chinese rose, Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), crape myrtle, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), oleander, fig, twisted-stem crabapple (Chaenomeles speciosa), etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowers and trees propagated by cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, wax begonia, bamboo-node begonia, inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), golden pothos, clearweed (Pilea), coral flower, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), gold-veined shrimp plant (Justicia), cold chrysanthemum, etc. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora 'Aurea') with bagging for moisture retention; using peony roots as rootstock, graft excellent varieties of tree peony; using 1-year-old trident maple seedlings as rootstock, graft red maple, feather maple, etc. with bagging for moisture retention; using 1-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft excellent varieties of white magnolia, Yulan magnolia (Magnolia denudata), red-flowered magnolia, etc.; using three-edged arrow (Hylocereus undatus) as rootstock, graft various cactus ball types; using 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Camellia japonica, plum blossom, Weigela, hydrangea, Weigela florida, twisted-stem crabapple, August osmanthus, snowball, Chinese snowball, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), gardenia, St. John's wort, French holly, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Michelia figo, bridal wreath, red-flowered spiraea, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: heavenly bamboo, broadleaf mahonia, mahonia, tree peony, twisted-stem crabapple, snowball, double-flowered kerria (Kerria japonica var. pleniflora), spray flower, spiraea, sago palm, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony, hosta, Cymbidium goeringii, purple hosta (Hosta ventricosa), bird of paradise (Strelitzia), Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, ranunculus (Ranunculus asiaticus), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley, Guangdong evergreen, silver queen aglaonema, purple triangular oxalis, multi-head green emperor, sword fern, Aspidistra, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by bulb division include: calla lily, amaryllis (Hippeastrum), freesia, lycoris (Lycoris radiata), tulip, Mediterranean bluebell (Scilla peruviana), etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers and plants

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and leaves fall, such as rose of Sharon, redbud (Cercis chinensis), elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, flowering peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as broadleaf mahonia, heavenly bamboo, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, large-leaf euonymus (Euonymus japonicus), boxleaf euonymus, sparrow-tongue euonymus (Buxus sinica var. parvifolia), etc., when transplanting, first, reduce-prune before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted include: Dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale, pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon), lily turf (Reineckea carnea), etc. Bulbous flower species that can be ground-planted include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), tulip, hyacinth, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and completeness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, red-flowered loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum), golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, golden-edged euonymus, large-leaf euonymus, boxleaf euonymus, French holly, privet, photinia (Photinia davidsoniae), small-leaf privet, etc. Ball-shaped plants that need pruning include: dragon juniper, euonymus, bayberry (Myrica), Chinese holly, wintergreen, photinia, pittosporum, firethorn, etc. For continuously flowering ground-planted flowers and trees in the courtyard, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Lantana camara, bougainvillea, etc., continue to cut off residual flowers and withered stems, and moderately reduce-prune the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as scarlet sage, marigold, globe amaranth, etc., promptly cut off the opened inflorescences to promote continued budding and flowering on lateral shoots, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For newly planted courtyard flowers and trees of the year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting: first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no water accumulation; second, continue to mist the leaf surfaces. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, it is appropriate to top-dress quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; for sweet osmanthus types that have already flowered, ring-shaped trenches can be opened to bury basal fertilizer; for Chinese rose, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose, as well as Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that have been pruned, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer can be buried; for heavenly bamboo, firethorn, and southern fingered citron, kumquat, bitter orange, golden bullet tree, etc. that are in the fruit-viewing state, a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be appropriately applied as a drench, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewashing can be carried out at the end of the month, or lime-sulfur mixture can be applied directly to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine, podocarpus, soapberry, horse chestnut, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Manglietia, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), mountain magnolia (Magnolia delavayi), Huangshan magnolia (Magnolia amoena), yellow orchid (Michelia champaca), golden-leaf Michelia, Michelia maudiae, red-flowered Manglietia, broad-petaled Michelia, pond cypress, lady palm, Ardisia crenata, beautiful phoenix palm, fan palm, kuding tea, French holly, camphor tree, privet, small-leaf privet, Chinese snowball, hall crabapple (Malus halliana), papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, yew, oil tea (Camellia oleifera), etc. These seeds must all be stored with wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: crape myrtle, tulip tree (Liriodendron), red maple, trident maple, golden larch, dawn redwood (Metasequoia), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria), Chinese tallow (Sapium sebiferum), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria), cotton rose, southern sour jujube (Choerospondias axillaris), redbud, camptotheca (Camptotheca acuminata), bishop wood (Bischofia polycarpa), five-angle maple (Acer mono), etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, French marigold, China aster, impatiens, four-o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa), summer cypress (Kochia scoparia), strawflower (Helichrysum bracteatum), cosmos, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), painted spurge (Euphorbia heterophylla), mimosa, dancing grass (Codariocalyx motorius), etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, etc., when their aboveground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and divide them for planting in the coming spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers and plants

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, temperatures are still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum kotoense, green giant, red gem, etc., on sunny days it is appropriate to water once a day, supplemented by leaf misting; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant types such as calla lily, cyclamen, Clivia, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, geranium, Fuchsia, etc., the amount of watering needs to be increased. For wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and misting increased to facilitate the swelling of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species that are relatively sensitive to cold, watering should be reduced, which can accelerate the lignification of new shoots, helping them survive the winter safely. The best watering time is 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cools, promptly top-dress low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primula, Clivia, cyclamen, black orchid (Cymbidium sinense), Belgian azalea, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to top-dress a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately top-dress some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, heavenly bamboo, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), rich seed (Ardisia), golden bullet tree, etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be top-dressed in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some foliage plant species that are very shade-loving, such as Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, green gem (Ficus robusta), Boston fern, peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, their dead branches and leaves, pest-damaged branches, weak branches, etc. should first be cut off; for leggy branches, strong reduction pruning should be carried out; for binding materials that have been shaped for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or re-bound after removal, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or stump bonsai, they can be buried in wind-sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the pot soil from freezing. Areas in the Yangtze River basin should accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowers and trees, collect them uniformly, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leaf miner larvae, inchworms and other pests should be controlled.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowers and trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora 'Aurea'), Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, water myrtle, Chinese fringe tree, Fujian tea, Buddhist pine, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, boxleaf euonymus, pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaf fig, ginkgo, Chinese rose, jasmine, Milan, sago palm, firethorn, Lantana camara, tamarisk, red maple, etc. Some cold-intolerant southern flower and tree species can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month. Such as large-flowered cymbidium, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and can be placed on the balcony at other times, such as lady palm, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra, areca palm, Caryota mitis, king coconut, Ptychosperma, Schefflera, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers and plants In early October, you can continue to use wide-mouthed large flower pots as cutting containers on the balcony, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half rice chaff ash and half wet sand, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting substrate, cover with plastic film to retain moisture, and cuttings-propagate a small number of ornamental plants, such as gardenia, Schefflera, rubber tree, aucuba, Michelia figo, jasmine, Chloranthus, Guangdong evergreen, coral flower, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, hibiscus, fingered citron, silver queen aglaonema, golden pothos, geranium, etc.

Management of balcony flowers and plants

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan tree, rubber tree, Schefflera, Brazilian wood, money tree, Milan, white orchid, jasmine, etc., water once a day, while supplemented by leaf misting; for types that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be too much, and at the same time mist the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the swelling of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, small angel, Aspidistra, Cordyline fruticosa, bird's nest fern, anthurium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, pothos, etc., all should focus on misting and supplement with watering, so as to keep the pot soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as large-flowered cymbidium, bromeliads, Chinese cymbidium (Cymbidium sinense), etc., a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea can be applied as a drench; for fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean (Fortunella), lemon, heavenly bamboo, golden bullet tree, rich seed, firethorn, winter coral, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as a drench; for Milan, white orchid, Chloranthus, jasmine, etc., 1 to 2 times of thin phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be top-dressed in early October to help them pass the winter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering, protect those nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the pot soil surface, and prevent pot soil compaction, you can continue to cover the pot soil surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially for shallow-pot stump bonsai, which should be given even more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, banyan tree, Fujian tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been tied for more than a year, they can first be untied; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for further wiring and fixation, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious harm to the plant. For ordinary potted flowers and trees, such as Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, twisted-stem crabapple, hall crabapple, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is Start of Winter, the beginning of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should pay attention to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, turning the soil and applying basal fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic greenhouses. This month's flower affairs management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, African daisy (Gerbera), Clivia, asparagus fern, hosta, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected in November include: snowball, small-leaf privet, privet, camphor tree, pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), podocarpus, Buddhist pine, soapberry, rich seed (Ardisia crenata), windmill palm, French holly, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added. Flower and tree species mainly for heat preservation and cold protection include: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to green calyx, palace pink and other varieties), Chinese rose (referring to floribunda rose, Elizabeth and other easy-to-root varieties), twisted-stem crabapple, etc.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum, hall crabapple, twisted-stem crabapple, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis), Chinese elm, snow-in-June, etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and tree species that can be densely cuttings-propagated in greenhouses or plastic greenhouses in November include: boxleaf euonymus, sparrow-tongue euonymus, large-leaf euonymus, silver-edged euonymus, clearweed (Pilea), golden-edged privet, gardenia, St. John's wort, Hypericum, mahonia, golden-edged snow-in-June, etc. If managed properly, complete root systems can grow by next spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening shapes. In winter, in greenhouses you can also cuttings-propagate bamboo-node begonia, begonia species, lotus-leaf begonia, geranium, hibiscus, Fuchsia, jade tree, Portulacaria afra, red-backed excoecaria, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin you can also cut cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape and other cuttings for storage, to be cuttings-propagated in the coming spring, which can significantly speed up their rooting speed and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Using green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag-graft red maple and feather maple indoors; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (the grafting interface is buried in soil to overwinter); using thick and strong branches of Chinese rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock scion wood, and using branches of excellent Chinese rose varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cuttings propagation, so that the interface heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of excellent Chinese rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: twisted-stem crabapple, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, Camellia japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddhist pine, Weigela florida, sweet osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus), Michelia figo, snowball, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball, bridal wreath, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: twisted-stem crabapple, snowball, bridal wreath, red-flowered spiraea, paper bush (Edgeworthia), St. John's wort, Hypericum, mahonia, butterfly bush (Buddleja), tree peony, broom (Cytisus), winter jasmine, Forsythia, jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine, Chloranthus, bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), fernleaf bamboo (Bambusa), etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, you can dig up the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, and large-flowered canna, store them with sand until March of next spring, then cut, divide, plant and establish them.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, hosta, purple hosta, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental bromeliads, large-leaf lilyturf (Ophiopogon jaburan), lily turf, autumn zephyr lily, evergreen (Rohdea japonica), Aspidistra, mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, French marigold, marigold, maple-leaf hibiscus (Abelmoschus), etc.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: black pine, Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), five-needle pine, dawn redwood, false cypress (Chamaecyparis), Japanese false cypress, Japanese flat cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), silk tree, sweetgum (Liquidambar), camptotheca, eucommia, red-twig dogwood (Cornus alba), Chinese tallow, wisteria, crape myrtle, caragana (Caragana), snowball. Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored with wet sand include: privet, small-leaf privet, windmill palm, camphor tree, pencil cedar, soapberry, goji (Lycium), yew, southern magnolia, wintergreen, Chinese holly, firethorn, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, Chinese rose (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be used for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement transplanting in November include: dwarf catchfly, Dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, ornamental kale, etc.

    Species that can be transplanted as large trees in November include: camphor tree, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow, white magnolia, sweet osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, horse chestnut, linden (Tilia), giant redbud (Cercis gigantea), tulip tree, Yulan magnolia, papaya, crabapple, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately reduced-pruned or shortened, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), so as to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened and large branches trimmed, with a good soil ball carried and the trunk bound well. After large tree transplanting, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened to ensure survival. In addition, cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from within the tree.

    In November, plum stumps, wintersweet, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, twisted-stem crabapple, hall crabapple, etc. can be transplanted and potted, placed in plastic greenhouses to force flowering, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. should be moved into plastic greenhouses to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic greenhouses or rooms, the specific standard for watering in November is to keep the pot soil moist, not too wet; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf misting should be given.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, fingered citron, lemon, firethorn, heavenly bamboo, winter coral, rich seed, etc., not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be misted frequently, to facilitate the swelling growth of flower buds and also make the fruit appear more colorful.

For foliage plants placed in plastic greenhouses, greenhouses and rooms, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the leaf surfaces should also be misted frequently, so that they always remain green and glossy. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Dieffenbachia, green emperor, croton, silver queen, etc., the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants due to too-low water temperature, thereby affecting their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors at temperatures above 15°C, species such as Western azalea, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, gold-bracted flower, shrimp plant, Daphne odora, cineraria, cyclamen, twisted-stem crabapple, hyacinth, Clivia, tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus, five-color bromeliad, etc., continue to top-dress low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic greenhouses, top-dressing should be stopped to help them normally dormancy and overwinter. For most ground-planted flowers and trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Yulan magnolia, Manglietia, Lechang Michelia, Yunshan white orchid (Michelia), Michelia figo, golden-leaf Michelia, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, spiraea, sweet osmanthus, grape, Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, windmill palm, red maple, tree peony, Forsythia, peony, St. John's wort, etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can use less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped shapes that have not yet completed pruning, and after pruning is completed, basal fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm, Fujian tea, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, oak (Quercus), Chinese fringe tree, firethorn, snow-in-June, Chinese juniper, Buddhist pine, wintersweet, crabapple, etc., laying a good skeleton for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Chinese roses that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, apart from retaining 3 to 5 strong 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle, strongly reduce-prune the current-year branches, apart from retaining 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current-year branches, to facilitate more strong new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees on flowerbeds, roadside edges and courtyards, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, sweet osmanthus, camphor tree, French plane tree (Platanus), purple magnolia, Forsythia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, firethorn, pittosporum, crabapple, etc., cut off all those disorderly branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches, pest-damaged branches, etc., and appropriately reduce-prune the leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November you can also strip the brown fiber from thick palm trees, do a good job of cleaning the trunks, and make them show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and tree species, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, heavenly bamboo, Norfolk Island pine, jasmine, white orchid, Chloranthus, Chinese persimmon (Diospyros armata), bitter orange, fingered citron, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Caryota mitis, rubber tree, money tree, Canary Island date palm, lady palm, etc., they can be placed in plastic greenhouses, as long as the room temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-intolerant potted flower species, such as Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Syngonium podophyllum, deep-lobed philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum), Milan, croton, gold-veined shrimp plant, gold-bracted flower, Brazilian iron (Dracaena fragrans), red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, silver queen, frangipani (Plumeria), lucky bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, etc., they should be placed indoors at a room temperature not lower than 10°C, or protected for winter with double-layer plastic greenhouses.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowers and trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple species, azalea (Rhododendron simsii), pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, boxleaf euonymus, Japanese bush cherry, Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus), Chinese juniper, trident maple, red maple, etc., they can be directly buried together with the flower pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil; under conditions not lower than -10°C, freeze damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather is encountered, plastic film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in a greenhouse, plastic tunnel, or indoors in November, besides ensuring a certain temperature, good ventilation should also be provided. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being trapped indoors for a long time, which causes flower, fruit, and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not enter the room, otherwise it can easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in the plants. When ventilating, also take care never to let the plants be directly exposed to cold drafts.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees and shrubs prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, and chrysanthemums, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, apply lime sulfur mixture to the dead and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the stumps.

For whiteflies, scale insects, and the like appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (they may occur on bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, orchids, camellias, clivia, and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray with pesticides such as Supracide to kill them.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western rhododendrons placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as Yemianbao, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main bonsai plant species suitable for shaping are: Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, moss cypress, procumbent juniper, winged spindle tree, serissa, plum, wintersweet, Japanese oak, Chinese holly, wintergreen, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, Chinese elm, and Hall crabapple.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and suspended with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be tied and adjusted again.

For new stumps such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, water willow, firethorn, and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches the following year.

For stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, select suitable pots and repot them, and pair them with fist-sized stones and dotted moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

Well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, and Hall crabapple can be potted in suitable containers in November, with strengthened water management, and can be displayed in squares, parks, and auditoriums the following spring.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south across China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions drop below zero one after another, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree care should focus on three aspects: first, do a good job of heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees moved into greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and residences; second, do a good job of pruning and cleaning open-ground flowers and trees and of turning and fertilizing the soil; third, do a good job of preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. In December, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter cherry, and African daisy; flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen species, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttage. In December, woody ornamental flowering trees and shrubs that can be cut outdoors include: plum (mainly cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda rose, and miniature rose); redleaf plum, wintersweet (cut with heel), spiraea, and boxwood species. Among them, plum and redleaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil, Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture retention.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of Chinese hibiscus, geranium, orchid cactus, epiphyllum, jade plant, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, kalanchoe, goldfussia, shrimp plant, wax begonia, bamboo begonia, Rieger begonia, chloranthus, jasmine, clerodendrum, lantana, Schefflera octophylla, daphne, pothos, and Cordyline fruticosa. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken of gardenia, golden-hearted (golden-edged) boxwood, mahonia, Hypericum, forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, dwarf Japanese cypress, serissa, firethorn, silver bud willow, and Triadica sebifera. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac, and grape can be cut and stored in sand, to be cut in spring the following year.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, and peach sown that year; after digging up the rootstocks, use cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them on the seedbed at a certain row spacing, bury soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the union, cover with plastic film for heat and moisture retention, and in the following spring after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent cultivars of Chinese rose; or use vigorous branch segments of the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions on the upper end, and then plant the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion segments into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, taking care that water does not seep into the graft union, cover with plastic film for moisture and heat retention, and in the following spring after the scion sprouts, remove the covering film; only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture retention.

    4. Layering. In December, flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering include: Buddhist pine, plum, camellia, osmanthus, banana shrub, Hall crabapple, purple magnolia, snowball viburnum, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, Scotch rose, Japanese snowball, Spiraea thunbergii, and pomegranate.

    5. Division. In December, herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, red wood sorrel, Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, and Aglaonema modestum. When cutting off the offsets from the base of a large variegated pineapple plant, the small plants must already have grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise the colored bands of the separated offsets are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, Hypericum, mahonia, Hall crabapple, Rhapis excelsa, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana sinica, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, Arabian jasmine, chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, bamboo palm, and Pleioblastus fortunei.

    1. Collecting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally those of herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as Salvia species, Gomphrena species, marigold, French marigold, cyclamen, and clivia. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December are: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen species, camphor tree, and photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground; under dry storage they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In December, herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds and flower borders include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, and daisy. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus, and pansy, and can be used for street displays the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, redleaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholar tree, weeping pagoda tree, and so on. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, rhododendron, and wintergreen. When transplanting, first strongly reduce the main shoot and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, carry a large root ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them in film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    In December, tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted include: plum, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, Hall crabapple, and Hall crabapple. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus, and the like should continue to be kept in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic tunnels with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without suffering freezing injury, such as asparagus fern, asparagus, Aspidistra, Japanese fatsia, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, banana shrub, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bamboo palm, Pleioblastus fortunei, and sago palm.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, chloranthus, chamaedorea, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian rhododendron, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, Chinese hibiscus, and Buddha belly bamboo, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic tunnels. For species requiring an overwintering temperature not lower than 10°C, such as croton, Caladium bicolor, pepperomia, Maranta, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Brazilian iron, money tree, Fittonia, pineapple species, Pilea cadierei, poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, clerodendrum, goldfussia, Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, sago palm, red (green) gem, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, inside well-sealed double-layer tunnels, appropriate heating should also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the tunnel with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum, crabapple species, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Japanese oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, red cypress, water willow, Chinese holly, and Fraxinus chinensis, when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or in residences, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants must not only maintain a corresponding indoor temperature, but also be given ventilation. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also be sure not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and residences, keep the potting soil moist. If the temperature is low and too much water is given, it easily causes root rot. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian rhododendron, plum, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and European narcissus, and fruit ornamentals such as bitter orange, lemon, finger citron, four-season mandarin, golden bean, winter cherry, Ardisia crenata, and nandina, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also give foliar spraying, to favor the swelling of flower buds and also increase the vividness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, both keep the potting soil moist and give foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Pilea cadierei, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, croton, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    The watering time in December is best during the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water temperature being too low.

For newly transplanted flowering trees outdoors, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering; for transplanted evergreen trees, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon to prevent leaves from shrinking and falling.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, stop fertilizing, otherwise it easily causes root rot and death of the plants.

For most open-ground greening trees and flowering trees, such as crabapple species, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, manglietia, banana shrub species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum, cherry blossom, redleaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, Chinese peony, tree peony, forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose, Hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, cedar, cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula, elm-leaved spirea, dwarf flowering cherry, white silk plum, photinia, redbud, and rose of Sharon, in December while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer edge of the root system, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, to lay a material foundation for growth and flowering next year.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, plum, wintersweet, goldfussia, shrimp plant, pineapple species, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Hall crabapple, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, and freesia, continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote flower bud formation and blooming.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum quihoui, large-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, and Photinia davidsoniae; ball-shaped ones include Chinese holly, bayberry, photinia, boxwood species, pittosporum, forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, and Chinese juniper. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For open-ground flowering trees not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, redleaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is finished, bury and apply fertilizer around the root system.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Chinese holly, Fukien tea, trident maple, Japanese oak, Fraxinus chinensis, firethorn, serissa, Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya, continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for growth next year; for plants not repotted for many years, repot them in combination with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple species, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, control the former promptly with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and control the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species prone to scale insects in greenhouses and plastic tunnels, such as bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, camellia, and Aspidistra, first wipe them once with a cloth, then control with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flowering tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, bitter orange, Chinese rose, and Fukien tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-ground flowering trees such as pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale. At this time, spraying higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and potting soil preparation next year, use the winter leisure time to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, and the like into water vats or pools, add water, and seal for soaking and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, and branches in layers with garden soil, set fire and burn, forming burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings, and pigeon manure with garden soil for composting, seal for fermentation, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil the following year.

    7. Preparing potting soil. Using the winter leisure time, find an open space or under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible, to meet the needs of repotting and potting herbaceous flowers next spring. Generally use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, and 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice chaff ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, then mix thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning soil and freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cutting, and planting out seedlings, plowing can be done in December; for plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and the like before turning; do not make beds for now, and after overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring next year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, dwarf Japanese cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese weeping cypress, moss cypress, oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, Shimpaku juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, water willow, Chinese holly, wintergreen, winged spindle tree, ginkgo, serissa, Caragana sinica, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, wintersweet, tamarisk, Hall crabapple, Hall crabapple, papaya crabapple, boxleaf euonymus, pearl euonymus, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fukien tea, Fraxinus chinensis, and Japanese oak.

For bonsai plants fixed and shaped with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already lasted one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for tying and training.

For open-ground shaped plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, and crape myrtle, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used for display in public places or residences next year.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and injuring the plant roots; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent plants planted on rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "Sanjiu" period, and most parts of China enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, and the like in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and residences; the next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing the soil, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. In January, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter cherry, and African daisy. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in open ground include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, wintergreen, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, and goldenrain tree.

    2. Cuttage. Ornamental plant species suitable for outdoor cutting or cutting with plastic film cover in January include: plum (cultivars such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), redleaf plum, Chinese rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver bud willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, serissa, Triadica sebifera, Hypericum, forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine, and jasmine. Species that can be propagated by cutting in greenhouses include: jasmine, chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cutting), Belgian rhododendron, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, jade plant, jade leaf, jade tree, Echeveria, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, Pilea cadierei, mirror grass, goldfussia, goldfussia, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree, daphne, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema modestum, pothos, and Cordyline fruticosa. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela floribunda, deutzia, hydrangea, sycamore, and fig can be cut and stored in sand, to be cut in March.

    3. Grafting. For excellent plum cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach can be used as rootstocks for rootstock grafting propagation, and after grafting they are buried and planted on the seedbed, covered with plastic film for moisture and cold protection. In Guangdong, often between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-grafting is used to propagate four-season mandarin, kumquat, and the like; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, use the 'Elizabeth' rose cultivar as rootstock and scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, covered with plastic film for moisture and cold protection.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum, weigela, gardenia, Hall crabapple, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Japanese snowball, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, Scotch rose, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edged lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, zephyr lily, hosta, purple hosta, purple-backed Rohdea japonica, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant species, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, pineapple species, small tulip, shell ginger, Monstera deliciosa, and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, Hypericum, mahonia, Hall crabapple, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana sinica, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, Arabian jasmine, chloranthus, Damnacanthus indicus, gardenia, Triadica sebifera, boxwood, and purple magnolia.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern and clivia seeds in the greenhouse, sow them immediately after collection; mature winter cherry seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, wintergreen species, and Ardisia crenata can be picked, treated, and stratified in sand for germination, and sowing can be carried out only after the seeds crack and show white.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including magnolia species, banana shrub species, photinia species, and wintergreen species, to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, give timely supplementary spraying; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, and the like for heat and moisture retention.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold regions include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, and daisy; in colder regions, after potting seedlings of Dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, and primrose, first place them in simple plastic tunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, use them for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple species, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, plum, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, redleaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Triadica sebifera, Chinese rose, Chinese scholar tree, and Sophora japonica var. pendula. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Ligustrum quihoui, apart from special circumstances, should generally be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in sheltered places, with strong reduction pruning after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild stumps during forestry afforestation and land preparation, mainly deciduous stumps, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, azalea, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, and winged spindle tree; for evergreen stumps, such as nandina, Mahonia fortunei, Chinese holly, and Japanese oak, strong reduction pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous stumps or evergreen stumps, they should be cultivated by the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and covered with straw curtains for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management; a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can endure, create a special safe overwintering environment for them, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, indoors, or buried in open ground. In simple plastic tunnels not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern, asparagus, Aspidistra, Japanese fatsia, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, aucuba, banana shrub, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, Ardisia crenata, daphne, sago palm, acorus, bamboo palm, and Pleioblastus fortunei. In double-layer plastic tunnels not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can endure low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, chloranthus, Michelia alba, chamaedorea, bottle orchid, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, epiphyllum, orchid cactus, large Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian rhododendron, bougainvillea, and lantana. In double-layer plastic tunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can endure low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as croton, Caladium bicolor, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, pineapple species, pepperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Brazilian iron, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, giant taro, green emperor, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaia odorata, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, sago palm, desert rose, Pilea cadierei, poinsettia, goldfussia, and coral flower. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnel, and only after the temperature turns warmer may the straw curtains stop being added. On very cold days, strengthen inspection of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it easily causes freezing injury to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum, crabapple species, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, Japanese oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, oriental arborvitae, small bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, and Fraxinus chinensis, they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots; when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, freezing injury generally will not occur, and in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or residences, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining a corresponding air temperature, good ventilation should also be provided. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air movement southward. If broken glass, torn film, and the like are found, repair and patch them promptly, so as not to freeze potted flowers. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully, so that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop caused by smoke damage and the like.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Hall crabapple, Hall crabapple, and winter jasmine can also be placed in a plastic tunnel at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased light time, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, pheasant's eye narcissus, and freesia already placed in the greenhouse in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January, for the watering management of potted flowers, the most important thing is first to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature roughly consistent with the soil temperature. If the difference between the two is too great, it easily causes adverse reactions in potted plants, and even causes leaf drop, root rot, or death. The watering time is best arranged during the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and residences, keeping the potting soil moist is appropriate; when the temperature is low, reduce watering accordingly, and when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For most foliage plants, both keep the potting soil moist and pay attention to foliar spraying, always keeping the leaves clean. For less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as Pilea cadierei, Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta, and croton, when the temperature is close to the lower limit of the lowest temperature the plant can endure, especially control the amount of watering. For potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian rhododendron, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, and pot marigold, and fruit ornamentals such as firethorn, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, golden bean, and winter cherry, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also spray the plants, to favor the swelling of flower buds and also increase the vivid color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in remote spots from lacking water, and timely supplementary watering should be given to plants whose potting soil has dried, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give timely supplementary watering; especially for transplanted evergreen ornamental plants, give appropriate foliar spraying around noon, to prevent leaves from shrinking and falling due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most open-ground greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple species, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, manglietia, banana shrub species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, Schima superba, Machilus, purple tree, camptotheca, Chinese peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, redleaf plum, dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksia rose, Elaeocarpus, golden willow, weeping elm, Japanese cedar, Taiwan cedar, cedar, Chinese scholar tree, Sophora japonica var. pendula, white silk plum, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, black bamboo, pomegranate, and loquat, if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings around the outer edge of the tree root system, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian rhododendron, shrimp plant, goldfussia, daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, pheasant's eye narcissus, Hall crabapple, hyacinth, tulip, colorful pineapple, clivia, bird of paradise, and crab claw orchid, continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to favor plant growth and flower bud formation and blooming.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, because the plants are dormant in winter, stop fertilizing, otherwise it easily causes root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, banksia rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, redleaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum, palm, and grape; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer edge of their root systems, to meet their growth needs in spring.

For bonsai plant species mainly pruned and supplemented by tying, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, Fukien tea, Japanese oak, Fraxinus chinensis, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa, and Chinese juniper, continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and formation. While pruning, plants not repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple species, plum species, elm-leaved spirea species, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, and redleaf plum that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles and the like, they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches should be burned.

Clear the leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape, and crape myrtle, gather them and burn them centrally, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and thread scale appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum, wintersweet, and photinia, spray high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture, and the like, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control, to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, and the like into water pools or vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack withered grass, branches, and fallen leaves in layers with garden soil, set fire and burn, and make burned soil yourself, which can be used as covering soil for sowing and seedling raising in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco powder, chicken droppings, and pigeon manure with garden soil for composting and fermentation, and it can be used as fertilizer for preparing potting soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land not yet turned and reclaimed in December, seize the time to plow in early January. While plowing the garden plot, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, and farmyard manure, and after overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring, for use in sowing and planting out seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf euonymus, moss cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, Shimpaku juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana sinica, wintersweet, winged spindle tree, banyan, and wisteria. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in simple plastic tunnels, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which favors the healing of parts possibly injured during shaping.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire and the like, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding parts, the original binding material should be removed, and tying and training should be carried out again.

    In January, for some shallow-pot stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for stump bonsai, prevent the potting soil from freezing and injuring the plant's fibrous roots, and prevent the disintegration of artificially cemented rocks; also prevent plants planted on small stones from dying after freezing, and they should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

Wampee Fruit Picture Appreciation and Planting Knowledge Introduction

Countless living things in nature give birth to life and complete the entire food chain. Plants in particular play an immeasurable role, quietly releasing oxygen for us, and the fruit of some plants can even be used as traditional Chinese medicine to relieve our pain. So, have you ever heard of wampee? What kind of plant is it, and what are its cultivation methods? Below, the editor will introduce it to you.

Wampee, also known as: huangdan, huangpi, huangpi, huangdanzi, wangtanzi. It is a plant of the genus Clausena in the family Rutaceae. The fruit is golden in color and glossy and dazzling. According to its nature and flavor, it can be divided into two systems: sweet and sour. Some varieties are sweet and sour and palatable, rich in juice and aromatic. It is a fruit excellent in color, aroma and taste, and can be mentioned alongside lychee. The leaves, root bark and fruit kernels are all used medicinally. A folk proverb says: "Eat lychee when hungry, eat wampee when full," which shows that wampee can help digestion.

Morphological characteristics:

Small tree, up to 12 m tall. Branchlets, leaf rachises, and inflorescence rachises, especially on the veins on the back of unopened leaflets, bear many scattered

conspicuously raised fine oil glands and are densely covered with short straight hairs. Leaves have 5-11 leaflets; leaflets ovate or ovate-elliptic, often oblique on one side, 6-14 cm long, 3-6 cm wide, base nearly rounded or broadly cuneate, asymmetrical on both sides, margin wavy or with shallow rounded teeth, midvein on the leaf surface often covered with short fine hairs; petiolules 4-8 mm long. Panicles terminal; flower buds spherical, with 5 slightly raised longitudinal ridges;

    Calyx lobes broadly ovate, about 1 mm long, externally covered with short pubescence; petals oblong, about 5 mm long, covered with short hairs on both sides or glabrous on the inner side; stamens 10, alternating long and short, the long ones equal in length to the petals, filaments filiform, slightly widened below, not geniculate; ovary densely covered with straight long hairs, disk small, ovary stalk short. Fruit round, elliptical or broadly ovate, 1.5-3 cm long, 1-2 cm wide, pale yellow to dark yellow, covered with fine hairs, flesh milky white, semi-transparent, with 1-4 seeds; cotyledons dark green. Flowering period April-May, fruiting period July-August.

Growth habits:

Wampee is an evergreen fruit tree native to the subtropics. It likes a warm and humid environment and has a relatively strong ability to adapt to light.

Wampee cultivation techniques:

It likes light and also tolerates semi-shade. Adult trees send out shoots 2-3 times a year, and a few have 4 times. Generally, spring shoots sprout in mid-to-late February, and some spring shoots also bear flower spikes at the same time. Spring shoots without flowers or fruit send out summer shoots around mid-June, and after the summer shoots mature, autumn shoots are sent out around September, and some can also sprout a second batch of autumn shoots. Autumn shoots are the main fruiting mother branches for the following year. Flower buds begin to appear in February, full bloom occurs around mid-April, the flowering period is about 20 days, and the fruit ripening period is from the end of July to the end of August.

Therefore, management should pay attention to:

(1) Fertilization. Fruiting trees are fertilized 4-5 times a year:

① Shoot-promoting and flower-promoting fertilizer, applied before spring shoots sprout in early February, mainly nitrogen; ② Flower-fading fertilizer, after the flowers fade, apply bran water plus compound fertilizer in shallow furrows; ③ Fruit-strengthening fertilizer, apply once between May and June with bran water plus urea plus compound fertilizer to promote fruit expansion; ④ Pre-harvest and post-harvest fertilizer, first mainly nitrogen to promote shoots, then mainly phosphorus and potassium to promote the maturation of autumn shoots; ⑤ In winter, as with the management of young trees, deeply bury winter fertilizer, mainly organic matter fertilizer.

(2) Foliar topdressing and flower and fruit retention

The stamens of the seedless wampee flower are degenerated, so the use of micro-fertilizers and hormones is also relatively important. Generally, during the flowering period, spray the tree canopy with 0.1%-0.2% borax plus 0.1% zinc sulfate. After the flowers fade, combined with pest and disease control, use 0.2% urea plus 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate plus compound micro-fertilizer as foliar topdressing, or use 50 PPm gibberellin plus 5 PPm 2,4-D, both of which have good effects on retaining flowers and fruit. At the same time, spraying growth regulators such as Yunda-120 and foliar fertilizers has obvious effects on reducing fruit drop, increasing the fruit-setting rate, and promoting fruit expansion, and Yunda-120 also has a certain effect on restoring tree vigor after frost damage. In addition, seedless wampee is prone to magnesium deficiency, so magnesium should be supplemented in a timely manner in combination with foliar topdressing.

(3) Reasonable fruit thinning and pruning

    It has been found in cultivation that seedless wampee shows obvious differences in fruit size and inconsistent ripening. In order to make the fruit develop evenly and improve fruit quality, some small fruits and deformed fruits, etc., can be thinned out between May and June. For plants bearing too much fruit, some weak and small fruit clusters can also be removed. When harvesting fruit, prune at the base of the fruit branch leaving 1-2 buds, so as to promote autumn shoots and cultivate good fruiting mother branches. After harvesting, in combination with clearing the orchard, promptly prune dead branches, shaded branches, overly dense branches and diseased and pest-damaged branches, etc.

The relevant content above describes the cultivation methods of wampee. How is it? It is not as difficult as everyone thought! Remember the key points. Wampee likes a humid environment, so if you want to successfully cultivate wampee, you must provide sufficient water to keep the soil moist, and also give it plenty of sun to ensure the plant has sufficient light. Only with careful care can wampee grow more vigorously. I hope today's content can help some friends.