A Detailed Guide to Home Care and Management of Gladiolus
Gladiolus is also known as sword lily. The editor needs to remind all flower lovers that gladiolus is not an orchid, but a bulbous plant belonging to the Iridaceae family. Since gladiolus is very suitable for cultivation in a home environment, it is also very widely grown. The editor will now introduce which issues need attention in the home care of gladiolus.
Gladiolus
Conventional cultivation of gladiolus refers to cultivation under natural conditions, generally choosing corms with a diameter of more than 2.5 cm. There are two planting methods: ridge planting and bed planting, with a planting depth of 5-10 cm. When gladiolus produces its 2nd leaf, this is exactly the time of flower bud differentiation, and it is particularly sensitive to environmental factors. If it encounters low temperature and weak light, the number of "blind flowers" increases. Generally, when preparing the soil, apply 6-9 kg of nitrogen, 6-12 kg of phosphorus, and 7-12 kg of potassium per mu. Throughout the growing season, topdressing is needed 3 times, namely when 2-3 leaves have emerged, when the inflorescence emerges from the leaves, and 15 days after flowering, once each time.
For forced cultivation of gladiolus, the dormancy of the corms must first be broken. After the corms are harvested, under natural conditions, from late autumn to early winter, dormancy can only be broken after exposure to low temperatures. For forced cultivation, dormancy must be broken artificially, that is, after the corms are harvested, first treat them with a high temperature of 35°C for 15-20 days, then treat them with a low temperature of 2-3°C for 20 days, and then plant them, after which they can sprout and grow normally. If flowers are required from January to February, plant from October to November; if planted in December, they will bloom from March to May. That is, from planting to flowering takes 100-120 days. The plant and row spacing for forced cultivation is 15 cm x 15 cm or 25 cm x 7 cm, planting 40-60 corms per sq m. After planting, the daytime temperature should be maintained at 20-25°C, and at around 15°C at night.
Gladiolus can also be grown by delayed cultivation. After the corms are harvested, store them in a dry cold storage at 3-5°C, and plant them again in a greenhouse in July-August of the following year. The management work is the same as for forced cultivation.
Home Care and Management of Potted Gladiolus
The scientific name of sword lily is gladiolus. It is not an orchid. It is a bulbous plant belonging to the Iridaceae family. Gladiolus prefers cool conditions, is not cold-tolerant, and fears intense heat. It requires loose, fertile, moist, well-drained soil. The optimum growth temperature is 20-25°C during the day and 10-15°C at night. Gladiolus is a long-day plant, and 16 hours of light per day is most suitable. Gladiolus is not tolerant of waterlogging, and the cultivation site must not accumulate water. It prefers fertile, well-drained sandy loam, with a pH value of 5.6-6.5 being best. The details are as follows:
Gladiolus plants are 80-170 cm tall, with corms that are flattened-round or ovate and have ring-like nodes. Leaves are 6-9 in number, sword-shaped. The inflorescence is a scorpioid umbel, bearing 8-24 flowers, and the flowers are large. Gladiolus is a multi-origin, multi-generation hybrid, and to date there is still no universally recognized unified scientific name. There are many classification methods for gladiolus: by flowering period, it can be divided into spring-flowering types and summer-flowering types; by flower arrangement form, it can be divided into regular types and irregular types; by flower size, it can be divided into giant-flowered types, medium-flowered types, and small-flowered types; by flower shape, it can be divided into trumpet type, lotus type, swallow type, and so on.
Home Care and Management
In production, corms are mainly used for planting. In spring, grade them by corm size, and soak them for 30 minutes in a 800-fold dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl powder or a mixture of a 1000-fold dilution of carbendazim and a 1500-fold dilution of captan, then germinate them at 20-25°C, and they can be planted in about 1 week. For varieties with severe virus infection and obvious degeneration, shoot-tip virus elimination can be used to rejuvenate the plants.
Conventional cultivation of gladiolus refers to cultivation under natural conditions, generally choosing corms with a diameter of more than 2.5 cm. There are two planting methods: ridge planting and bed planting, with a planting depth of 5-10 cm. When gladiolus produces its 2nd leaf, this is exactly the time of flower bud differentiation, and it is particularly sensitive to environmental factors. If it encounters low temperature and weak light, the number of "blind flowers" increases. Generally, when preparing the soil, apply 6-9 kg of nitrogen, 6-12 kg of phosphorus, and 7-12 kg of potassium per mu. Throughout the growing season, topdressing is needed 3 times, namely when 2-3 leaves have emerged, when the inflorescence emerges from the leaves, and 15 days after flowering, once each time.
For forced cultivation of gladiolus, the dormancy of the corms must first be broken. After the corms are harvested, under natural conditions, from late autumn to early winter, dormancy can only be broken after exposure to low temperatures. For forced cultivation, dormancy must be broken artificially, that is, after the corms are harvested, first treat them with a high temperature of 35°C for 15-20 days, then treat them with a low temperature of 2-3°C for 20 days, and then plant them, after which they can sprout and grow normally. If flowers are required from January to February, plant from October to November; if planted in December, they will bloom from March to May. That is, from planting to flowering takes 100-120 days. The plant and row spacing for forced cultivation is 15 cm x 15 cm or 25 cm x 7 cm, planting 40-60 corms per sq m. After planting, the daytime temperature should be maintained at 20-25°C, and at around 15°C at night.
Delayed cultivation can also be used. After the corms are harvested, store them in a dry cold storage at 3-5°C, and plant them again in a greenhouse in July-August of the following year. The management work is the same as for forced cultivation.
Home Care and Management of Potted Gladiolus (Sword Lily)
News from the China Landscape Web on October 14: A netizen asked about the cultivation and care methods for gladiolus (sword lily), so the editor below will briefly introduce the home care and management methods for potted gladiolus (sword lily). The scientific name of sword lily is gladiolus. It is not an orchid. It is a bulbous plant belonging to the Iridaceae family. Gladiolus prefers cool conditions, is not cold-tolerant, and fears intense heat. It requires loose, fertile, moist, well-drained soil. The optimum growth temperature is 20-25°C during the day and 10-15°C at night. Gladiolus is a long-day plant, and 16 hours of light per day is most suitable. Gladiolus is not tolerant of waterlogging, and the cultivation site must not accumulate water. It prefers fertile, well-drained sandy loam, with a pH value of 5.6—6.5 being best. The details are as follows:
Gladiolus plants are 80-170 cm tall, with corms that are flattened-round or ovate and have ring-like nodes. Leaves are 6-9 in number, sword-shaped. The inflorescence is a scorpioid umbel, bearing 8-24 flowers, and the flowers are large. Gladiolus is a multi-origin, multi-generation hybrid, and to date there is still no universally recognized unified scientific name. There are many classification methods for gladiolus: by flowering period, it can be divided into spring-flowering types and summer-flowering types; by flower arrangement form, it can be divided into regular types and irregular types; by flower size, it can be divided into giant-flowered types, medium-flowered types, and small-flowered types; by flower shape, it can be divided into trumpet type, lotus type, swallow type, and so on.
Home Care and Management
In production, corms are mainly used for planting. In spring, grade them by corm size, and soak them for 30 minutes in a 800-fold dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl powder or a mixture of a 1000-fold dilution of carbendazim and a 1500-fold dilution of captan, then germinate them at 20-25°C, and they can be planted in about 1 week. For varieties with severe virus infection and obvious degeneration, shoot-tip virus elimination can be used to rejuvenate the plants.
Conventional cultivation of gladiolus refers to cultivation under natural conditions, generally choosing corms with a diameter of more than 2.5 cm. There are two planting methods: ridge planting and bed planting, with a planting depth of 5-10 cm. When gladiolus produces its 2nd leaf, this is exactly the time of flower bud differentiation, and it is particularly sensitive to environmental factors. If it encounters low temperature and weak light, the number of "blind flowers" increases. Generally, when preparing the soil, apply 6-9 kg of nitrogen, 6-12 kg of phosphorus, and 7-12 kg of potassium per mu. Throughout the growing season, topdressing is needed 3 times, namely when 2-3 leaves have emerged, when the inflorescence emerges from the leaves, and 15 days after flowering, once each time.
For forced cultivation of gladiolus, the dormancy of the corms must first be broken. After the corms are harvested, under natural conditions, from late autumn to early winter, dormancy can only be broken after exposure to low temperatures. For forced cultivation, dormancy must be broken artificially, that is, after the corms are harvested, first treat them with a high temperature of 35°C for 15-20 days, then treat them with a low temperature of 2-3°C for 20 days, and then plant them, after which they can sprout and grow normally. If flowers are required from January to February, plant from October to November; if planted in December, they will bloom from March to May. That is, from planting to flowering takes 100-120 days. The plant and row spacing for forced cultivation is 15 cm×15 cm or 25 cm×7 cm, planting 40-60 corms per sq m. After planting, the daytime temperature should be maintained at 20-25°C, and at around 15°C at night.
Delayed cultivation can also be used. After the corms are harvested, store them in a dry cold storage at 3-5°C, and plant them again in a greenhouse in July-August of the following year. The management work is the same as for forced cultivation.