Key points for summer care of kalanchoe, teaching you how to get it safely through summer

Kalanchoe is also a succulent plant, but because its flowering period can last more than 4 months, it was named kalanchoe. After entering summer, kalanchoe enters a dormant period. In order to allow kalanchoe to bloom better the following year, the methods for cultivating kalanchoe in summer need to be adjusted accordingly.

Kalanchoe

1. Light

May and June are the stage when long and short daylight alternate, and the daylight hours gradually change from short to long. For a plant as sensitive to light as kalanchoe, supplemental lighting should be stopped in time to avoid causing leggy growth. In order to create a short-day environment for kalanchoe, the greenhouse can be shaded. Shading should be carried out from 5 to 6 p.m., and the shade net should be opened at 8 a.m.

In terms of light intensity, kalanchoe is a light-loving plant, and the suitable light level is 30,000 to 40,000 lux. Too strong light will scorch the plant, but too low light intensity can easily lead to leggy growth.

2. Temperature

The suitable temperature for kalanchoe growth is 17°C to 27°C. When the summer temperature is too high, the plant should be shaded, otherwise it will be harmed. Choose a shade net with a shading rate of 60% to 70%. If the shading rate is too high, it can also easily cause leggy growth.

3. Fertilizer and water management

In this season, fertilizing kalanchoe should follow the principle of "water frequently, apply less nitrogen fertilizer." During the seedling stage, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers should be balanced, while after entering the flowering induction stage, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be the main focus, with the amount of nitrogen fertilizer reduced. Applying nitrogen fertilizer lightly can effectively control the leggy growth problem of kalanchoe plants and improve stress resistance and disease resistance.

Now is the best stage for kalanchoe cutting propagation. However, because the temperature is relatively high now, the greenhouse easily becomes dry, so the amount and frequency of misting for the cuttings should be increased to keep the substrate moist, which is beneficial for rooting.

In terms of watering, because summer temperatures are high, plant transpiration increases, and the evaporation rate of water in the potting soil also increases, so the watering frequency should be gradually increased to give the plant sufficient water to ensure healthy growth. For kalanchoe showing leggy growth, it can be regulated by applying the plant growth regulator chlormequat, and it is best to apply it under moist soil conditions. Soil that is too dry or too wet is not conducive to the plant's absorption of the chemical.

4. Flower induction plan

Finally, growers need to be reminded that because kalanchoe induced to flower in May to June will come onto the market in July to August, and July and August happen to be the off-season in the market, producers must make sure that the amount of flower induction in May to June is not too large, otherwise there will be sales pressure. Pinching kalanchoe in this season can extend its growth period. This not only helps ease sales pressure, but also encourages the plant's shape to become fuller.

Key points for summer care of courtyard flowers

Key points for summer care of courtyard flowers

(1) The impact of summer climate on flowers. In summer, the temperature is high, the light is strong, and there is a lot of rain. It is the growing season for most flowers. However, because the weather is changeable, the sun is scorching, and there are many pests and diseases, if management is improper, it can very easily affect flower growth. It can be said that the work of caring for flowers in summer is mainly temperature management, fertilizer and water management, and shading, cooling, and increasing humidity.

For flowers and potted flowers generally grown at home, because their places of origin differ, their temperature requirements also differ, and they should be treated differently. If they are cultivated together without distinction, different results will inevitably appear. Flowers that like high temperatures will grow well if they can adapt, while those that fear high temperatures will not grow well because they cannot adapt. So how can you know the temperature requirements of the flowers you grow? First find some materials to understand the climate conditions of these flowers' places of origin, then take the necessary methods and measures to create a temperature environment suitable for them to safely pass the summer.

(2) Summer flowers must be protected from sunscald. "Without sunlight, flowers will not flourish." However, exposure to the sun or excessively high temperatures are also unfavorable to flower growth. Especially in the peak heat of summer, when the sun is blazing, if the hot outdoor temperature approaches the upper limit of the temperature for flower growth, the plant will be in a weak state of poor growth, and when the upper limit temperature is exceeded, it may die within a short time. Generally, when the air temperature reaches 35 to 40°C, flowers stop growing, and high temperatures above 45°C can cause the proteins in flower cells to denature and coagulate, with the danger of heat death at any time. China is a monsoon climate region with hot summers and cold winters. In midsummer, the sun is like fire, and the maximum temperature in most areas can reach above 30°C, while in many areas the maximum temperature can reach 35°C. Continuous high temperatures with a daily average temperature above 30°C for more than 5 consecutive days are also a common phenomenon in the Yangtze River basin region. The strong sunlight in summer is the main source of high temperatures, and sun protection is the main method to ensure that flowers safely pass the summer. A generally simple sun protection method is to place potted flowers in different locations according to their different heat tolerance. For example, among foliage plants, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, etc., should be placed in semi-shade with good ventilation; flowering and bulbous plants, such as rhododendron, camellia, calla lily, Hippeastrum, and Clivia, should be placed in cool, ventilated places; succulent plants, such as cactus, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Agave, kalanchoe, Sedum, Echeveria, as well as plum blossom, kumquat, Impatiens, pomegranate, hibiscus, magnolia, and rose, should be placed in places with ample sunlight and air circulation. However, in rainy weather, flower pots should be laid on their sides to prevent water accumulation. The saying about flowers goes, "Tea camellia for shade, peony for sun, and four-season flowers for half shade and half sun," which is exactly this principle. Another point is that the specific site for keeping flowers is also very particular. If the house faces west with its back to the east, flowers should be placed on the east balcony for care, avoiding strong afternoon sunlight and evaporation from high temperatures. If the house faces south with its back to the north, flowers should preferably be placed on the north balcony for care.

Of course, there are also some plant types that are not afraid of sun exposure and instead grow poorly with too little sunlight, such as jasmine and Portulaca grandiflora among flowering plants, and Cycas revoluta among foliage plants. However, it is best not to place this type of flower directly on the cement railing of the balcony. Two mud bricks can be placed on the cement railing, and the flower pot placed on the bricks. In this way, on the one hand, it can insulate against heat, and on the other hand, it also has a ventilating effect, avoiding the flowers being baked from above and below, and to a certain extent also lowering the temperature. Of course, the bricks must be placed steadily, and attention must be paid to safety.

(3) Methods of shading in summer. Summer is hot with high temperatures, and especially strong sunlight exposure often scorches flowers, causing leaf tips and leaf edges to turn yellow and dry, and even the entire plant to die. Therefore, appropriate shading in the high-temperature seasons of summer and autumn or keeping plants under a shade shed is a common and practical measure to prevent direct sunlight and lower temperature.

Most greenhouse flowers are semi-shade plants and cannot tolerate the high temperatures of summer. Therefore, before summer arrives, around Qingming Festival each year, they should be moved out of the greenhouse, and most types need to spend the summer under a shade shed. Some cut flowers and woody flowers, such as camellia and rhododendron, also need to be under a shade shed to bloom and grow well.

Shade sheds can be divided into two major types: permanent shade sheds and temporary shade sheds. The frame material of permanent shade sheds is cement or steel pipe, and they are relatively tall, generally more than 3 m in height. This type of shade shed is usually used by larger botanical gardens, flower nurseries, and professional flower growers. The frame material of temporary shade sheds is often wood or bamboo, generally less than 3 m in height, and they are used by home flower growers. They are temporary shade sheds built in courtyards or on balconies in summer and dismantled in autumn.

For the covering on top of the shade shed, reed curtains were often used in the past, and of course their effect was good. Now black or gray plastic shade nets are generally used. They are cheap, relatively light in weight, and their shading effect is also quite good.

If a shade shed is built in the courtyard, when arranging potted flowers, bricks must be placed under the pots or inverted empty flower pots used as supports to facilitate drainage and ventilation. If they are placed directly on the ground, coal cinders or coarse sand should be added to facilitate drainage, and when it rains or when watering, mud can also be prevented from soiling the branches and leaves.

(4) Methods for cooling and increasing air humidity in summer

① Misting: Summer often has sustained high temperatures, and the air is very dry. Some heat-tolerant flowers also become listless, and even watering more will not have a significant effect. This is because at this time the water-absorbing capacity of the flower roots has been greatly weakened. A atomizing sprayer should be prepared promptly and used to mist the leaves and stems of the flowers from time to time. This can not only increase the air humidity of the small environment around the plants and play a cooling role, but also wash dust or mud from the leaf surfaces of potted flowers, keeping the leaf surfaces clean and the leaf color fresh and tender. If conditions permit, being equipped with a device that can automatically spray water mist will make the humidifying and cooling effect even better. It is worth mentioning that misting is absolutely not the same as spraying water. Spraying too much water with a watering can will cause some flowers and trees to rot at the roots.

② Sprinkling water: On dry ground or cement balcony floors under the strong sunlight of midsummer, the temperature can reach as high as 40°C, or even above 50°C, while most flowers cannot tolerate high temperatures above 35°C for a long time. At this time, the simplest and most direct method is to sprinkle water on the site where the potted flowers are placed and spray water on the leaf surfaces to increase humidity and lower temperature and reduce water evaporation from the leaf surfaces. According to measurements, after sprinkling water, the ground temperature can immediately be reduced by 1 to 5°C, and a few minutes after spraying water, the leaf surface temperature can drop by 1 to 2°C, thereby effectively reducing the heat damage to flowers from high temperatures. It is best to use a watering can for sprinkling water, because in this way the water can be sprinkled evenly, the amount of water can be easily controlled, water can be supplied according to the actual needs of the flowers, and the water use efficiency can be improved. Some shade-loving flowers, such as asparagus fern, Saxifraga stolonifera, western rhododendron, and tropical orchids, require relatively high air humidity on the leaf surfaces, in the space around the pot, and on the ground. Sprinkling water with a watering can can basically meet their requirements.

③ Establishing a sand trough: Flower-growing enthusiasts all believe that in several cities such as Nanjing and Wuhan, it is very difficult to grow camellias and rhododendrons well. The reason is that summer heat is one factor, and dry air is even more of a "natural enemy" of these flowers that need a humid environment. To meet the special needs of these flowers, a corner of the balcony can be enclosed with mud bricks. The size of the area depends on the size of the balcony and the number of flowers. Spread a layer of coarse sand about 5 cm thick on the ground, place some flowers that need high humidity, such as camellia, rhododendron, Clivia, and orchids, on the sand, and sprinkle water on the sand surface 2 to 3 times a day. In this way, as the accumulated water in the sand continuously evaporates upward, the humidity of the small environment is increased and the air temperature is also lowered, creating a relatively cool and humid microclimate environment suitable for potted flowers to grow through the summer.

④ Other methods: A deep-basin evaporation method can also be used, that is, placing the plant in a wide, tall, and deep container with a small amount of water for cultivation, which will also provide a stable high-humidity environment.

Another method is to place the flower pot into an outer pot with a slightly larger diameter, and place water-absorbing materials such as shredded paper, rags, peat soil, or sawdust into the gap between the two pots. These soaked materials will gradually release water vapor, thereby achieving the purpose of increasing the humidity of the surrounding environment.

(5) Water management for summer flowers. For flower growers, watering is the most frequent and most important management task. If the soil is too dry, flowers will wilt and even die; if the soil is too wet, it will suffocate the root system and even cause root rot.

① Watering time: Among the four seasons, summer watering time is the most particular. If you are slightly careless, it can injure flowers and even kill them. Generally speaking, in summer it is best to water before 8 a.m. every day and after sunset in the evening. At these times, the air temperature, soil temperature, and water temperature are all similar, making watering more suitable. Absolutely avoid watering under the blazing sun at noon, because at noon the potting soil is very hot, and when cold water is poured on it, because the soil temperature suddenly drops, flowers are prone to catching a cold just like people. The flower root hairs are stimulated by the low temperature, affecting the normal absorption of water by the root system. Even ground-planted flowers should not be irrigated at noon. If you forget to water in the morning and find at noon that the potted flowers are severely wilted and need immediate watering to replenish water, you must move the potted flowers to a shady place, wait 20 to 30 minutes, and water only after the soil surface temperature has dropped.

Practice shows that foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Araucaria heterophylla, and Chamaedorea elegans, can be watered around 10 a.m. and misted several times in the afternoon; flowering plants, such as Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, camellia, and rhododendron, can be watered thoroughly in the morning and misted several times in the afternoon depending on the situation; succulent plants, such as Schlumbergera and cactus, can be watered thoroughly in the morning and misted in the afternoon to increase air humidity, and do not need to be watered every day.

② Watering methods and amount: For watering potted flowers, no matter when, the principle of watering thoroughly once the soil is dry must be seriously followed. That is to say, once the flower pot soil is dry, it should be watered thoroughly in time. Never give half-watering, and many beginners in flower growing have the bad habit of giving half-watering. So-called half-watering means that although the frequency of watering is high, the amount each time is insufficient. The water poured in only moistens the surface soil layer, while the bottom soil is dry, thus forming in the pot the phenomenon of half-watering with wet top and dry bottom. The result is that the wet top makes the surface soil muddy and slurry-like, and over time causes the upper roots to rot and die; the dry bottom makes the middle and lower soil very dry, and over time causes the middle and lower roots to suffer from water shortage, premature aging, or death. At the boundary between the wet upper layer and the dry lower layer, a hard compacted layer usually forms, making it difficult for the potted flower root system to penetrate downward, resulting in poor development, slow growth, or no growth at all. This is also an important reason that seriously affects the quality of potted flowers and leads to their death. To check whether potted flowers are dry or wet, you can tap the flower pot up and down and listen to the sound. If it is crisp, it is dry; if it is heavy and dull, it is not dry. The number of waterings and the amount of water should be determined according to seasonal changes, weather conditions, flower types, and their growth conditions, and must be appropriate. In the high-temperature period of summer, evaporation is greatest, so more frequent watering is needed; during vigorous growth periods, water and nutrient needs are high, so more frequent watering is needed; moisture-loving flowers should be watered more, while drought-tolerant flowers should be watered less; herbaceous flowers should be watered more, while woody flowers should be watered less. In short, when you hold the watering can, you must treat them differently and must not distribute equally. You must water more when it is time to water more, and water less when it is time to water less. One point must be noted: when flowers are blooming, do not water too much, to prevent flower drop.

③ Water quality and water temperature for watering: The quality of water used for watering flowers is also very particular. It is best to use stored rainwater to water flowers. If conditions do not allow and only tap water can be used, then the tap water should be stored in a container for a few days to let it settle. On the one hand, this allows the chlorine in the water to volatilize, and on the other hand, it brings the water temperature close to the air temperature. Generally speaking, the temperature difference between water temperature and air temperature should not exceed 5°C.

④ Precautions for watering: General flower-growing enthusiasts like to use some traditional methods for cultivation. In fact, some methods are not only unhelpful to flowers but harmful. For example, casually pouring leftover tea into the pot, after several times, only tea leaves can be seen on the pot surface and no soil layer. Especially in summer when the temperature is high, after a slightly longer time, the tea leaves become moldy, resulting in the surface soil being wet while the middle and lower soil are dry, affecting the soil's water permeability and air permeability. Another example is that some people often use rice-washing water, fish soup, and bone soup to water flowers, thinking that this can supplement nutrients for the plants and make them grow more vigorously. In fact, this is also unscientific. Although these liquids contain certain nutrients, the oils in them are not absorbed by plants and can only be absorbed by plants after decomposition and fermentation.

Even more, do not use dishwashing water or face-washing water to water flowers, because these waters contain certain salts, and over time they will often change the composition of the soil. In addition, some people also like to invert eggshells in flower pots and let the egg white flow into the soil, thinking that egg white is also a very good fertilizer. It goes without saying that its effect is the same as rice-washing water and fish soup.

Water stored in jars or buckets for watering flowers is not better the longer it is stored. In fact, after a long time, on the one hand the water quality changes, and on the other hand it easily breeds insects. Therefore, in summer and autumn, the storage time of water should preferably not exceed 3 days.

In summer when there is a lot of rain, attention should be paid to timely drainage. After heavy rain, if water accumulation is found in the pot, the pot can be tipped over to drain the accumulated water; in continuous rainy weather, potted flowers can be moved to a rain-sheltered place to prevent excessive rainwater from being unfavorable to flower growth.

In addition, some flowers can neither dry out nor take too much water. When there is temporarily no one at home to care for them, a cloth strip can be buried in the pot, with one end soaked in a water basin placed next to the flower pot, and water can slowly moisten the soil through the cloth strip. This simple automatic watering method for flowers is worth trying.

Particular attention should be paid to the fact that some flower species that are dormant in summer, such as Cyclamen, do not need watering.

(6) Ventilation for summer flowers. Flowers also need to breathe. For respiration and photosynthesis, they must have sufficient fresh air. Poor ventilation will obstruct respiration and further affect the normal growth and development of flowers. Because of the limitations of the cultivation site, especially after being made into an enclosed balcony, potted flowers have poor ventilation conditions. Especially in summer, when the temperature is high, there is a lot of rain, and humidity is high, poor ventilation makes the temperature rise even more easily. This unfavorable ecological environment of stuffiness and poor air circulation not only provides favorable conditions for the breeding and reproduction of pests and diseases such as rot disease, scale insects, and red spiders, but also aggravates the damage to flowers from high summer temperatures. Therefore, it is an unfavorable factor that seriously affects the safe summer survival of many flowers. The main solutions are: appropriately reducing the planting density of flowers and increasing the distance between potted flowers; carrying out reasonable shaping and pruning, such as cutting off some overly dense leggy branches and thinning out some excessive flower buds; cutting off root suckers and controlling excessive growth of certain flowers, etc. All the above practices can improve the ventilation conditions of the site environment to varying degrees.

(7) Pay attention to rain damage and wind damage. In the rainy summer season, due to heavy rains and long periods of rainfall, sometimes continuous rain for 5 to 7 days, the humidity on balconies and corridors is high, often causing a large number of flowers to drop. Therefore, during heavy rain, potted flowers should be moved to a rain-sheltered place, or textile cloth or household plastic film should be covered over the balcony or corridor, and the film and textile cloth should be put away after the rain. Summer is also a season with frequent hurricanes. If flowering flowers encounter a hurricane, the potted flowers should be moved to a wind-sheltered place. Some balconies and corridors often have strong winds, especially in high-rise buildings. Hanging strips of cloth or agricultural plastic film can play a role in preventing or reducing wind damage.

(8) Pest and disease control for summer flowers. Because of high temperature and high humidity in summer, plus poor ventilation, it is a season with a high incidence of pests and diseases. Diseases prone to occur in summer include chlorosis, powdery mildew, sooty mold, and black spot.

Chlorosis is also called lime-induced chlorosis. Most acid-loving flowers, such as camellia, gardenia, and Cymbidium, often show this disease. Affected leaves show milky white spots, or turn entirely yellow-white, and in severe cases parts of the leaves necrose. To control this disease, organic fertilizer and ferrous sulfate can be applied, and light can be increased and potting soil replaced.

Powdery mildew often harms young stems and tender leaves. In the early stage of the disease, small white spots appear on the leaves, and later gradually expand as if covered with a layer of white powder; after the stems and leaves are affected, they turn grayish brown, and in severe cases the plant can die due to weakened growth. To control this disease, ventilation should be strengthened, light increased, air humidity reduced, diseased leaves removed in time and burned, and diluted carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl solution, or Bordeaux mixture sprayed. Lime-sulfur mixture can also be sprayed once a week.

Sooty mold harms branches and leaves. In the early stage, the soot-like mold appears as dotted patches, and later gradually expands and thickens, and the dotted patches can connect and cover the entire leaf, affecting the plant's photosynthesis. This disease mostly occurs under high-humidity conditions and accompanies scale insects. To control scale insects, spraying diluted carbendazim solution has a relatively good effect.

Black spot mainly harms leaves. Affected leaves first show small round black spots, which later expand into round or nearly round spots, and finally the spots connect together. At this time, the entire leaf becomes scorched black, dries up, and falls off. Rose and rhododendron are most susceptible to this disease. If diseased plants are found, they should be isolated immediately and sprayed, and diseased leaves and branches should be collected and burned. Control methods: spray with 70% thiophanate-methyl powder at 800 times dilution or 50% carbendazim at 1,000 times dilution, once every 10 days from June to August. Bordeaux mixture has an even better control effect.

Common insect pests of summer flowers include aphids, red spiders, scale insects, and whiteflies.

Aphids harm almost all indoor foliage plants. There are many kinds of aphids and they reproduce quickly. They gather on young branches and leaves to suck sap, and their excrement can also attract and infect other pests and diseases. If aphids appear, dimethoate or dichlorvos diluted solution can be sprayed; you can also light a cigarette, hold it slightly upside down, and let the smoke fumigate the buds and leaves with aphids, and the aphids will fall off one after another; soaking 2 cigarettes in 1 cup of tap water and spraying with the tobacco water 2 to 3 times can also remove aphids.

Red spiders are also a kind of pest with many species and rapid reproduction. They are extremely small in size and often occur in high-temperature and dry environments. They spin webs on the undersides of leaves and suck sap. The affected leaf surface shows dense grayish-yellow small spots or patches, and in severe cases the leaves curl, turn yellow, and fall off. They can be controlled by spraying dimethoate at 1,500 to 2,000 times dilution, and red spiders can also be killed by boiling chili peppers in water. If potted flowers have red spiders, place the affected potted flowers in a jar large enough to hold the flower pot, light a coil of mosquito repellent incense, cover the mouth of the jar tightly with plastic film, tie it firmly with string, open a small hole, and after continuous fumigation for 1 to 2 hours, take it out and check. A layer of red ash can be seen, which means the red spiders have all been killed.

There are also many kinds of scale insects with different forms. They often gather and parasitize, absorb sap from branches and leaves, and secrete waxy substances, blocking leaf stomata, inducing sooty mold, causing the affected plant's branches and leaves to turn yellow and dry, grow slowly, and in severe cases the whole plant dies. They often harm Rohdea japonica, Cycas revoluta, orchids, and cactus plants. Control methods: spray or smear with 50% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 800 to 1,200 times dilution or 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 1,000 times dilution; lay a piece of paper on the surface of the potting soil, then use a soft brush to wipe scale insects off the branches and leaves; you can also use a small bamboo strip or matchstick to gently remove scale insects from the plant, and care should be taken not to use too much force and injure the leaves; combined with pruning, cut off insect-infested leaves and branches.

Summer is coming! These key points for summer care of potted plants must be known!!

As summer arrives, the temperature rises and the weather turns hotter, and getting through summer has become a difficult problem that many flower and plant lovers must face. Especially for spider plant, asparagus fern, Epipremnum aureum, Pachira aquatica, etc., once care is improper, it may be difficult for them to get through this hot summer intact. Below are some key points for summer care of common potted plants:

Image: Epipremnum aureum

1. Epipremnum aureum

Summer is the peak growth period for Epipremnum aureum. At this time, attention should be paid to keeping the soil moist, appropriately applying some nitrogen fertilizer, avoiding exposure to strong sunlight, and placing it in a scattered-light environment. In addition, mist the leaves more to increase air humidity.

If it is hydroponic Epipremnum aureum, do not add nutrient solution in summer. Once the water quality is found to become cloudy, change the water immediately to reduce infection by pathogens that cause root rot.

2. Asparagus fern

One point to note for asparagus fern in summer is moisture retention: mist more, reduce exposure to strong sunlight, and strengthen ventilation.

3. Pachira aquatica

Pachira aquatica likes a high-temperature and high-humidity environment. High summer temperatures are very favorable for its growth, so at this time the watering frequency generally should be increased. In addition, maintain a humid environment to avoid the air being too dry and causing leaves to turn yellow, and absolutely avoid exposure to strong sunlight.

Image: spider plant

4. Spider plant

Spider plant can tolerate high temperatures but not exposure to strong sunlight. In summer, if it is placed on a balcony for care, attention should be paid to shading. If the light is too strong, its leaves are easily sunburned. In addition, increase the watering frequency, improve ventilation, and frequently mist the leaf surface to increase the surrounding air humidity and avoid dry leaf tips.

5. Camellia

Entering June, camellia begins flower bud differentiation, so an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be supplemented, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate. The reason many people's camellias do not bloom is mostly insufficient fertilizer.

6. Kalanchoe

As summer temperatures rise, kalanchoe enters a dormant period. At this time, the amount of watering must be reduced, because too much water very easily causes the plant to rot. Light still needs to be sufficient, but do not expose it to strong sunlight. When light is too weak, the plant easily becomes leggy.

Image: camellia

7. Jasmine

In summer, jasmine is in its flowering period, so sufficient light must be ensured to promote flowering. Apply a fertilizer combining nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium once a week, such as cake fertilizer or fermented organic fertilizer, which can make the flowers bloom more and more fragrant. Jasmine likes acidic soil, so ferrous sulfate can be sprayed once every ten days. During the growing period, keep the soil moist, and when watering, avoid getting water on the flowers.

8. Lysimachia nummularia

Lysimachia nummularia is most afraid of water shortage. In summer, temperatures are high and evaporation is fast, which can easily cause water shortage and wilting. Huahua suggests that everyone had better grow Lysimachia nummularia in a half-water, half-soil manner. In this way, there is no need to water every day, and sufficient water can also make Lysimachia nummularia grow more luxuriantly.

The above is an introduction to some key points for summer care of common potted plants. I hope it can be helpful to everyone!