How to grow water lilies? A full breakdown of daily care essentials

Water lilies come in a great many flower colors, and they are also a plant everyone is very familiar with that combines both flowers and foliage for viewing. Because water lilies are aquatic plants, if you want to grow them at home, you need to create a suitable aquatic environment for them. The editor will now introduce the care essentials for water lilies, so friends who like water lilies can learn along.

Water lily

Water lilies are mostly planted in water vats, fish tanks or the planting beds of ponds. When planting, fill the vat with potting soil, leave 12-15 cm of space for water, then place the rhizome into the soil so that the plant's bud eye is level with the soil surface, put it in a spot with plenty of sunlight, and add clear water; the water level just needs to be higher than the soil surface. Afterward, gradually deepen the water level according to the plant's growth. In addition, change the water frequently to remove debris and prevent the water quality from deteriorating. If there is a pond in the courtyard, it can be planted directly into the planting bed in the pond (or the vat can be placed in the pond), which can maintain a slight flow in the pond surface and is most favorable for water lily growth. The water level above the bed surface must not exceed 30-40 cm at the deepest. Apply a topdressing once during the growing season, and after flowering, frequently remove spent flowers and dead leaves to keep the plant looking neat and prevent nutrient depletion.

Autumn care essentials for courtyard flowers

Autumn care essentials for courtyard flowers

(1) Characteristics of the autumn climate. According to China's traditional custom, around August 8 on the Gregorian calendar is the day of "Start of Autumn" in the Chinese lunar calendar, meaning that from this day until before "Start of Winter" in early November is "autumn."

In East China, the average daily temperature in autumn is generally between 10-22 degrees Celsius, which is a temperature favorable for plant growth. But autumn is also a transitional season from summer to winter, and the temperature changes greatly. In early autumn, the highest temperature is still above 30 degrees Celsius, and can even reach 35 degrees Celsius; while in late autumn, the lowest temperature is below 0 degrees Celsius.

In this season, the warm, humid southeast wind from the Pacific Ocean will gradually be replaced by the cold, dry northwest wind from the northwestern plateau. When the northwest wind forms and bursts southward, the surface atmosphere is controlled by cold air and the upper layer is controlled by subtropical airflow, forming clear, crisp autumn weather.

Autumn is also an important turning point for plant growth. Many herbaceous flowers have finished blooming, their seeds have matured, and their life cycle has ended; they need to be seed-collected and sown to prepare for the next life cycle. The growth of perennial flowers and trees begins to slow or stop, and some trees begin to shed leaves and are about to enter dormancy to get through the cold winter. Meanwhile, another group of winter flowers that go dormant in summer, such as cyclamen, primroses and calla lilies, begin to wake up and enter a new vigorous growth period, so water and fertilizer must keep up.

(2) Daily management of autumn flowers

① Management methods: In autumn, for flower growers, in addition to continuing the daily management of summer such as watering and fertilizing, there are also many "special" things to do as the climate changes.

Early autumn: At this time the high temperatures of summer have not completely receded, and especially the midday heat is still a threat to flowers and trees. Therefore, the summer shade curtains should not be removed in a hurry; just open the curtains in the morning and evening for light and air, and keep shading during the rest of the time. Some flowers need even more special attention.

For orchids, maintain a humid and cool environment, and it is best to spray water 2-3 times a day, with the spray in mist form, until the leaf surface is moist. The balcony, ground or sand pit should be sprinkled with more water to help lower the temperature and prevent the threat of the "autumn tiger."

For summer vat-grown lotus, although its beautiful blooms are all gone, it should still be given sufficient water and light. Once the seed pod matures, it can be picked off so the lotus root can continue growing and ensure abundant flowering next year.

For the kumquat, an excellent winter ornamental-fruit plant, when it blooms for the third time, do not let rain fall directly on the flowers, to ensure the fruit-setting rate.

The flower buds of azaleas are differentiating, so reduce watering and add phosphorus fertilizer to ensure vigorous flowering next spring.

Cyclamen and mature clivia can be repotted and given fresh soil to ensure the potting soil is loose and nutrient-rich, and to prevent blind flowers or stuck arrows.

The balcony favorite geranium, after a summer of continuous growth and flowering, also needs repotting and fresh soil, as well as branch pruning and shaping. Pruning means cutting off the flowering branches, leaving only stubs about 10 cm high at the base, to encourage new branch growth and keep the plant shape robust and beautiful. Within 1 week after pruning, do not water or fertilize, to prevent infection of the cut.

For chrysanthemums, do the final pinching, and at the same time apply more topdressing until the flower buds differentiate.

Mid-autumn: At this time the sunlight gradually weakens, the summer heat has dissipated, and the temperature drops noticeably. Flowers and trees that were shaded in summer should gradually have their shading time reduced or the curtains removed.

As the temperature drops and sunlight weakens, the water and fertilizer consumption of ordinary flowers and trees also decreases accordingly. The number of waterings can be changed from 2 times daily in summer to once every 1-2 days or once every 2-3 days, and the number of fertilizations can also be changed from 1-2 times per week to once every 1-2 weeks.

At the same time, special attention should be paid to the following matters:

First, after camellias form buds, apply phosphorus fertilizer once to ensure bright flowers the following year.

Second, after calla lilies go dormant, new leaves are just emerging, so be especially careful when watering; do not pour water into the leaf sheaths to prevent rot.

Third, for the "New Year's fine fruit" kumquat, fertilize frequently, preferably with fermented soybean cake water and bone water or a mixture of turtle innards and intestines, to ensure sufficient water and fertilizer and achieve abundant fruit.

Fourth, early September is the suitable time for artificial hybridization of dahlias, so artificial pollination should be carried out promptly.

Fifth, for stump bonsai such as plum yew, elm and hackberry, this is an important time for styling and shaping; leaves can be picked and branches bent and tied, and thin fertilizer applied to promote new leaf growth; after the leaves are even, prune again into a sheet-like form.

Late autumn: Around October 8 is Cold Dew, and around the 24th is Frost's Descent. Sunshine gradually shortens, autumn colors are fully visible, and the average daily temperature is generally below 10 degrees Celsius. Once a cold wave arrives, nighttime temperatures can drop below 0 degrees Celsius, with frost or frost damage. At this time, be sure to pay attention to the weather forecast at all times and promptly do the work of moving flowers and trees indoors and protecting them from the cold.

In late autumn, you need to grasp the timing for moving plants indoors well, moving flowers and trees placed on balconies or in the open into the room to overwinter, commonly known as "moving indoors." Whether the timing of moving indoors is grasped accurately has a great bearing on whether flowers and trees overwinter safely. If moved indoors too early, the indoor temperature is too high; if moved indoors too late, the flowers and trees will suffer cold damage and may even freeze to death. Therefore, for flower growers, "moving indoors" is also a major matter and cannot be done carelessly. Moving indoors should be carried out in batches according to the different temperature requirements of different types of flowers and trees.

Tropical flowers and trees such as Milan, lucky bamboo, Brazil wood, cordyline and croton, commonly known as high-temperature-type flowers and trees, have the poorest cold resistance. Generally, when the normal temperature is below 10 degrees Celsius, they are prone to cold damage, ranging from leaf drop, flower drop, fruit drop and shoot withering to death in severe cases. Therefore, such flowers and trees are best sent to a greenhouse for fostering before winter arrives. If they cannot be fostered, move them indoors before the temperature drops below 10 degrees Celsius, place them in a warm, sunny spot, open the windows for ventilation at noon on sunny days, and when a cold wave comes, use insulation measures such as double potting and plastic bag covering; in the coldest times, heating measures are needed.

Carnations, clivia, asparagus fern, jasmine and cacti, commonly known as medium-temperature-type flowers and trees, are hard-pressed to resist low temperatures below 5 degrees Celsius. Therefore, when the nighttime minimum temperature is 5 degrees Celsius, they should be moved indoors. When the weather is too cold, bag protection is also needed.

Camellias, azaleas, orchids, sago palms and banana shrubs have relatively good cold tolerance, so if there is no frost or rain and snow, there is no need to move them indoors in a hurry. But if the low temperature is below 0 degrees Celsius, they should be moved indoors and placed in a south-facing room, where they can generally overwinter safely.

Five-needle pines, Buddhist pines, crabapples and Chinese roses, commonly known as low-temperature-type flowers and trees, have relatively good cold tolerance and generally do not need to be moved indoors; just place them in a warm, sunny spot outdoors. Once severe frost or rain and snow occurs, temporary covering with straw curtains is enough for protection.

Management after flowers and trees are moved indoors is also very important. After being moved indoors, water consumption decreases. Generally, small pots should be watered once a week, and larger pots once every 1-2 weeks. If the potting soil is not very dry, the watering interval can be extended further. Apart from winter-flowering flowers and trees such as bird of paradise, cyclamen and clivia, which need sufficient water and fertilizer plus extra phosphorus fertilizer, autumn-sown herbaceous flowers that will bloom in early spring next year also need frequent fertilizer and sufficient water. For ordinary flowers and trees moved indoors to avoid the cold, however, only fertilize once every 1-2 months or simply stop fertilizing, to avoid excessive fertilizer causing leggy growth and reducing cold resistance.

October is the best time to transplant or divide spring orchids, and orchid growers must not miss this opportunity. At this time, the orchids' growth vigor is relatively reduced, and if the flower buds are not damaged during the operation, next year's flowering will not be affected. To make division easier, watering can be controlled for several days before division, letting the potting soil dry out appropriately so the roots turn white and become softer, so that during transplanting or division the roots are less likely to break. But do not let it become too dry; if too dry, it is also bad for orchid growth.

② Autumn harvest and autumn sowing: Autumn is also the season for propagating seedlings. As the saying goes, spring flowers are sown in autumn; a large number of spring flowers such as cineraria, cyclamen, pansies and corn poppies need to be sown at this time, and seedling-stage management must be done well.

As the saying goes, good seed produces good seedlings, so sowing must start with seed collection. How can you collect the best seeds? Generally speaking, when flowers and trees are in full bloom, with suitable climate and sufficient nutrients, the seeds produced will naturally be of better quality, so mastering the accurate seed-collection time is the first rule. Of course, even among the same batch of seeds, there will be individual differences. For home flower growing, the amount of seed used is not large, so the method of selecting seed by seed can be used, keeping those seeds that are well developed, regular in shape and plump and full.

According to the different maturity times of different seeds, we can collect the following seeds separately in each season.

Seed collection: In early autumn, the seeds that can be collected include peony, large-flowered purslane, zinnia, iris, redbud, bridal wreath spirea, cypress vine, lily, sensitive plant, centella, water lily, coreopsis and lotus. In mid-autumn, the seeds that can be collected include cypress vine, morning glory, balloon flower, zinnia, spider flower, iris, petunia, Chinese peony, mallow, amaranth, okra, emilia, strawflower, periwinkle, cockscomb, sensitive plant, canna, morningstar lily and lychnis. In late autumn, the seeds that can be collected include morning glory, cosmos, okra, hosta, marigold, scarlet sage, four o'clock flower, magnolia, trumpet vine, wisteria, weigela, camellia, crape myrtle, golden gourd, five-color pepper, China aster, lycoris, torch lily, autumn anemone, sieve tree, dogwood and goji.

Different seeds vary greatly in life span. Some need to be stored for a period and undergo full dormancy before they can germinate, such as the sieve tree. Some need to be sown immediately after collection, otherwise their germination rate will decrease, such as peony and Chinese peony seeds, which must be sown immediately after collection or stored in sand. For example, water lily seeds must be stored in water. Generally, after flower and tree seeds are collected and dried, they are put into small paper bags or cloth bags separately and stored on top of a cabinet or in a drawer; when it is time to sow, just take them out and use them.   

Sowing: In early autumn, flowers and trees suitable for sowing include peony, primrose, cineraria, hollyhock, dianthus, pot marigold, pansy, daisy, snapdragon, bellflower, stock and wallflower. In mid-autumn, flowers and trees suitable for sowing include hosta, balloon flower, China aster, cornflower, pot marigold, hollyhock, mallow, stock, petunia, snapdragon, primrose, nasturtium, verbena, pansy, cineraria and cyclamen. In late autumn, sowing of biennial herbaceous flowers should already be finished, and a few perennial woody or bulbous flowers and trees, such as cyclamen and nandina, can be sown in pots.   

Autumn sowing can be divided into two methods: open-field sowing and indoor sowing. For cold-hardy herbaceous flowers such as daisies, corn poppies, pot marigolds and pansies, open-field sowing is generally suitable, with the same method as spring sowing. For flowers with poorer cold tolerance such as primroses, cyclamen and clivia, indoor sowing is used. The containers for indoor sowing can be sowing boxes or sowing pots. General-purpose sowing boxes are nailed together from wooden strips, about 10 cm high, and 40-60 cm long and wide. If there is a suitable-sized packaging box at home, it can also be used instead. A sowing pot is a clay pot with a mouth diameter of 30 cm, a height of 10 cm, and many round holes in the bottom (available at flower markets). The specific operation steps for sowing are as follows:

Step 1: First cover the round holes in the bottom of the pot with broken tile pieces, and spread a layer of broken tile granules (smash a broken clay pot into bean-sized granules) or coal cinders and charcoal crumbs at the bottom, 3-4 cm thick, to facilitate drainage.   

Step 2: Fill the upper part with sterilized potting soil (usually mixed from 3 parts humus soil, 1 part garden soil and 1 part sand), filling to a height 1 cm from the pot rim, and gently pat level with a pressing board.

Step 3: Evenly sow the seeds. The sowing method can depend on the size of the seeds. For fine seeds such as primroses, you can mix in some potting soil, mix evenly, and then scatter evenly; for larger seeds such as clivia and cyclamen, place them one by one at a spacing of 1-2 cm, pressing lightly as you place them so that half of each seed enters the soil and half is exposed, then use a fine sieve (a discarded window screen can be used at home) to sift a layer of quartz sand to cover the seeds.

Step 4: Take an ordinary plastic basin, fill it with half a basin of water, put the sowing pot into the water, and let the water slowly seep into the pot from the bottom holes until the surface is entirely moist, then take it out, place it in a ventilated, shaded spot on the balcony, and cover with glass to keep warm and moist. Be careful to turn the covering glass over every day so that the water condensed on its surface evaporates, and leave a small gap to let the potting soil breathe. If the potting soil dries out, spray a little water. After the seedlings emerge, gradually remove the covering glass, then gradually move them to a sunny spot (note: gradually, not all at once into the hot sun, otherwise they will be scorched). According to whether the potting soil is dry or wet, water promptly with a fine watering can. After the seedlings produce true leaves, use a fine bamboo stick to gently remove the overly dense and poorly growing seedlings, leaving healthy, even good seedlings. When the seedlings have 3-4 true leaves, they should be transplanted into pots.

Methods for sterilizing potting soil include a special drying oven. At home, you can buy sterilized bagged potting soil; you can also spread the soil flat on the concrete roof on a sunny day and expose it to the sun for 1-2 days; or put it in an iron wok and stir-fry over high heat for half an hour; you can also spray the soil with 0.5% potassium permanganate water, then cover it tightly with plastic film and let it sit for half a day, remove the plastic film, and use it after 1 week. When sowing, to prevent dust from flying, you can first spray a small amount of water into the potting soil to moisten it slightly, but the water must not be too much, otherwise the soil becomes sticky and hard to work with.

Most herbaceous flower seeds can be sown directly before sowing without any treatment. However, some seeds have thick, hard seed coats or a waxy layer, such as cyclamen, and are best treated before sowing to promote germination and sterilization. The treatment method is soaking in water. For seeds with thicker seed coats, warm water can be used for soaking (water temperature around 60 degrees Celsius), and the soaking time is generally 24 hours; after sowing, spray more water to keep them moist. In addition, for seeds with hard seed coats such as lotus, you can use a file to file one end of the seed coat, then soak. For seeds purchased from other places, in order to prevent diseases infecting the seeds from spreading locally, soak them in 0.5% potassium permanganate or 0.3% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, then take them out, rinse clean with clear water, and sow.

Some herbaceous flowers, such as primroses, pocketbook plants and cineraria, need transplanting after sowing. But some are not suitable for transplanting, such as corn poppies and California poppies; these flowers and trees have overly delicate root systems and grow poorly after transplanting, so they must be put into small pots 13 cm in diameter as soon as the seedlings' true leaves first appear, and after they grow a little larger, removed from the pots and planted in place, or the direct sowing method can be used.

(3) Autumn flower pest and disease control. Autumn is hot and dry, and it is a season of high incidence of flower leaf spot disease and powdery mildew.

Leaf spot disease is caused by fungi and includes black spot, brown spot and red spot, often occurring on leaves and fruits. In the early stage of the disease, round spots of varying sizes can be seen on leaves or fruits, fading green and turning yellow, with a clear outline on the outer edge. Mold layers or small black grains often appear on the spots, and in the later stage the diseased part necroses.

Powdery mildew is also caused by powdery mildew fungi and mostly occurs on leaves, young fruits and tender branches. The lesions are nearly round, with a thin layer of white powder appearing on them, and in the later stage many yellow-brown grains the size of needle heads are scattered on the white powder layer. Removing the white powder layer reveals yellow spots on the affected plant tissue. Chinese roses and dahlias are prone to this disease.

The fundamental method for preventing and controlling the above diseases is to pay attention to hygiene, thoroughly remove the source of disease, and promptly clean up dead branches and fallen leaves inside and outside flower pots as well as on balconies and in courtyards. If a large number of flowers are grown, 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500-1,000 times dilution can be sprayed for disinfection. Those who grow Chinese peonies, peonies, chrysanthemums and carnations can also spray 120-160 times Bordeaux mixture once every 10 days, which can prevent peony red spot disease, carnation leaf spot disease and chrysanthemum brown spot disease.

In addition, applying more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to flowers and trees to enhance disease resistance is also an effective method. At the same time, pests such as aphids, red spiders and whiteflies are also prone to occur at this time, so check plant by plant. Once found, immediately catch them carefully by hand. When there are many, spray dimethoate and omethoate to kill them.

Before flowers and trees are moved indoors in late autumn, check pot by pot and branch by branch. If there are scale insect eggs on the branches, immediately scrape them clean with a bamboo strip. Aphids are relatively large and easy to find, but red spiders are extremely small and mostly on the undersides of leaves, hard to notice. Therefore, check the undersides of the leaves plant by plant. If small white dots are found, immediately spray with a dimethoate preparation for control, or wash with a tobacco infusion (soak about 20 cigarette butts in a bowl of water for 24 hours, then add some soapy water or laundry detergent and mix), and rinse clean with clear water afterward.

If fertilizer, water and everything else are normal, but the plant seems to grow poorly, you should suspect whether there are pests harming it in the soil. The simplest and most effective way is to repot and inspect, to see whether there are cutworms, ants, earthworms, etc. in the soil, and if so, remove them promptly. When repotting, mix some carbofuran into the soil (for a flower pot 20 cm in diameter, about one small plastic spoon), or use 2 tablets of "Baihualing" sold in stores, crush them and mix into the soil, which also has a very good sterilizing and insect-killing effect.

What needs to be specially pointed out here is that in home flower growing, pests and diseases should be checked frequently, discovered early, and controlled promptly, using manual capture or water washing as much as possible. When pesticide must be used, use non-toxic and low-toxicity pesticides as much as possible, and spraying pesticides indoors is absolutely prohibited.

Care essentials and tips for hydroponic plants

Care essentials and tips for hydroponic plants

Plants that have just started hydroponic growing are not easy to keep alive, so daily care is crucial. How exactly should they be cared for? Come take a look with Huahua~

Which plants can be grown hydroponically

There are many plants on the market that can be grown hydroponically, most belonging to the Araceae, Liliaceae and Crassulaceae families. The more common hydroponic plants are pothos, anthurium, peace lily, spider plant, snake plant and hyacinth.

Some succulents can also be grown hydroponically, such as: golden barrel cactus, Sempervivum, spider plant with golden edges, peacock arrowroot and Haworthia.

Several plants that can make an aquarium scene more striking: hornwort, water lily and arrowhead.

Washing the roots is most important

If you want hydroponic plants to grow well, Xiazi believes the most important thing is to "remove the plant from the soil and wash the roots," otherwise it will affect the normal growth of hydroponic plants and increase pest and disease infection.

1. Remove from soil and wash the roots. Take the selected plant out of the soil, gently shake and pat it, then soak it in clear water for 15-20 minutes, then gently rub and wash the roots by hand, changing the water and washing 2-3 times, until the roots are completely free of soil.

2. Choose a container. According to the variety, form, specifications and flower color of the hydroponic plant material, choose containers such as round glass vats, glass bottles and glass basins.

3. Put into water. Put the washed plant with its roots into the chosen container and secure the roots. Simple and attractive stone materials such as colored stones and Yuhua stones can be chosen.

Care is crucial

I. Temperature

The suitable growth temperature for hydroponic plants is above 5 degrees and below 30 degrees. In other words, as long as the temperature feels fairly comfortable to people, the plants will also feel fairly comfortable and can grow normally; even in winter, they can have luxuriant branches and leaves, adding vitality for us.

II. Light

Mainly scattered light. What is scattered light? It is natural light coming in through windows and other places, naturally scattered indoors. Generally, plants only need appropriate brightness to grow; they do not necessarily have to be exposed to the sun, and in summer, direct sunlight should be avoided as much as possible.

III. Nutrient solution

Generally, you can just use the special hydroponic nutrient solution sold on the market. Mix the appropriate concentration according to the instructions, for example diluted 400 times or 1,000 times; do not get the ratio wrong. When preparing it, let tap water sit for two hours to half a day, wait until its temperature is close to room temperature and the chlorine in the water has volatilized completely, then add the concentrated nutrient solution in proportion, and it becomes a nutrient solution suitable for growing hydroponic plants.

IV. Changing the water

Changing the water is an important task for hydroponic plants. Changing the water means replacing the water in the bottle that has nutrient solution added. If the water is not changed for a long time, the dissolved oxygen content in the water decreases, which affects root growth and absorption capacity. In addition, plants release some harmful substances during physiological activities, and when the water is short of oxygen and has a high content of harmful substances, it will cause poor plant growth or even death. When changing the water, pay attention to the following issues:

(1) Water-changing time

Under normal circumstances, change the water once every 5-10 days in spring and autumn; once every 5 days or so in summer; and once every 10-15 days in winter (let tap water sit for half a day, then add concentrated nutrient solution in proportion). For flowers that have just been started hydroponically, change the water once every 1-2 days. In summer, plants grow vigorously and temperatures are high, so the water easily deteriorates and the interval should be shortened. In winter, most plants are in semi-dormancy or dormancy and temperatures are lower, so the water-changing interval can be longer. Overall, a shorter water-changing interval is beneficial to plant growth.

(2) Cleaning the roots and container

When changing the water, the roots should be cleaned. Clear water can be used to rinse off the mucus on the roots, and some rotten roots and old roots that have lost absorption capacity should be cut off. After a container has been used for a period of time, sediment will adhere to its walls, and moss is also likely to grow, so it should also be cleaned thoroughly when changing the water.

(3) Depth of the water

When growing flowers hydroponically, people often immerse the roots in water, but from cultivation experience, do not add too much water when adding it. Note: when changing the water, please leave half or one third of the plant's roots exposed. Leaving a small amount of roots exposed to the air allows the roots to absorb dissolved oxygen from the water and also absorb oxygen from the air.

Note:

Changing the water is to ensure the oxygen supply in the water. Fresh water contains more oxygen and plants will grow healthier. If the water is not changed for a long time, the plants can also persist for a period; for example, sometimes when everyone goes on a business trip or vacation and is away from home for ten days to half a month or even a month, soil-grown plants would long ago have had enough and died, while hydroponic plants, as long as you add more water, can still hold on. But if the time is too long and the water in the bottle becomes very stale or deteriorates, it will affect the growth of hydroponic plants and, in severe cases, can also cause their death.V. Cleaning

Each time you change the water, rinse the plant's roots and container with clear water, and prune dead branches, withered leaves and rotten roots. Under normal growth conditions, hydroponic plants will periodically have some roots rot and then grow new roots, so when you find rotten roots, do not panic; just use sterilized scissors (sterilized with alcohol cotton) to prune away the rotten roots. Sometimes some old roots can also be pruned to promote new root growth (note: this should be done under the guidance of professionals).

But be sure not to damage the water roots, otherwise it will affect the plant's growth. The white, tender roots on the roots of hydroponic plants are the water roots. Some grow directly from the base of the stem, and some grow from the main root. They are all responsible for the plant's absorption function, so be sure not to damage them.

VI. Moisture retention

In winter there is very little moisture in the air, especially in the north, where indoors it is very dry, which is unfavorable for plant growth. So in daily care, please spray the leaf surfaces with clear water to maintain humidity; you can spray clear water twice a day.

In winter, there is very little moisture in the air, especially in the north, where indoor air is very dry, which is unfavorable for plant growth. So in daily care, please spray the leaves with clean water to maintain humidity, and you can spray with clean water twice a day.