Detailed Guide to August Care and Management of Potted Flowers
Every season has its own characteristics, and this year's summer has been unusually hot. In such harsh conditions, the flowers on balconies and in courtyards also suffer greatly. Without proper care, various diseases can arise, and in severe cases the plants may even die. So in the hot August, how should potted flowers on courtyards and balconies be managed? The editor will analyze this for you from several major aspects of daily care.
Pouch flower (Calceolaria)
I. Watering
In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m., and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For acid-loving ornamental plant species, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as pouch flower (Calceolaria), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), iron cross begonia (Begonia masoniana), and hairy-leaf begonia, water droplets that land on the leaf surface do not evaporate easily and can cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette and flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia cannot be splashed with water either, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette can cause heart rot; for bromeliads, watering must be reduced and misting increased, with water poured into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and misting potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in dormancy or semi-dormancy, watering and misting should be controlled, just enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist; a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them by misting the small environment around the flower pots.
II. Fertilizing
In August, for foliage plants such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, red (green) gem (Fittonia), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), Arecastrum romanzoffianum, Phoenix roebelenii, Areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), Caryota mitis, Livistona chinensis, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), Dutch iron (Yucca), money tree (Pachira aquatica), sword fern (Nephrolepis), Schefflera (umbrella tree), Chinese jasmine (Fagraea ceilannica, African jasmine), cinnamon tree (Cinnamomum kotoense, also called peace wood), coin tree (Zamioculcas zamiifolia, also called dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium podophyllum, green emperor (Aglaonema), green queen (Aglaonema), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), pink lady (Aglaonema), Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, Chamaedorea elegans, Codiaeum variegatum, Fatsia japonica, etc., a low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For long-flowering species such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), white orchid (Michelia alba), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), pearl orchid (Chloranthus spicatus), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, four-season osmanthus, daily-fragrance osmanthus, bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), and lantana (Lantana camara), as well as fruit-bearing ones such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), kumquat (Fortunella), lemon, Ardisia crenata, firethorn (Pyracantha), golden bullet tree (Diospyros armata), fruiting pomegranate, nandina (Nandina domestica), and papaya (Chaenomeles), in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as monopotassium phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as salvia (Salvia splendens), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), drought chrysanthemum, marigold (Tagetes erecta), French marigold (Tagetes patula), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum majus), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), chrysanthemum, and dwarf sunflower, a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn arrives. For flower and tree species in the process of flower bud differentiation, such as camellia (Camellia japonica), tea camellia (Camellia sasanqua), plum blossom (Prunus mume), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), and azalea (Rhododendron), a low-concentration phosphorus-potassium fertilizer should be applied to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, as this can cause leaf rot. To be safe, spray the leaves with water promptly after fertilizing to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormancy or semi-dormancy, such as clivia, begonia (Begonia semperflorens), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum), daphne (Daphne odora), aloe, kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana), purslane tree (Portulacaria afra), Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), sedum species, purple triangular wood sorrel (Oxalis triangularis), cactus species, and ball cactus species, all forms of fertilizing must be stopped, otherwise the plants can easily suffer root rot or death.
Wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens)
III. Shading
In August, the heat is still intense, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For cool-loving ornamental plant species such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium podophyllum, Maranta and Calathea species, red (green) gem (Fittonia), Rhapis excelsa, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), green emperor (Aglaonema), green queen (Aglaonema), orchid grass species, pink lady (Aglaonema), pepper grass (Peperomia), bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), ferns, Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), Phoenix bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, purple velvet plant (Gynura aurantiaca), blood leaf orchid (Ludisia discolor), silver queen (Aglaonema commutatum), black-leaf alocasia (Alocasia amazonica), crystal anthurium (Anthurium crystallinum), anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), begonia species, lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), Aspidistra elatior, asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), and Hostas, shade frames can continue to be provided; pull the shade net over at 9 a.m., and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and moved out from the tree shade in mid-September.
IV. Pruning
In August, for tree-stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, continue to pinch back or prune, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Japanese privet (Ligustrum japonicum), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), banyan (Ficus microcarpa), Chinese ash (Fraxinus chinensis), water willow (Adina rubella), and boxwood (Buxus sinica). For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., after each flowering, shortening pruning should be carried out. For potted chrysanthemums, bud thinning and disbudding work should be done well.
V. Pest and Disease Control
In August, control should be carried out against pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Attention should be paid to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Attention should be paid to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Winter Care Tips for Potted Christmas Cactus
Winter Care Tips for Potted Christmas CactusChristmas cactus, also known as crab claw cactus, crab claw lotus, and immortal finger flower, is a plant of the genus Schlumbergera in the cactus family. It is tender green, with new stem segments tinged red; the main stem is round and easily becomes woody, with many branches in segmented form; the areoles bear bristles, and flowers are borne on the areoles at the top of the stem segments. Common cultivated varieties include bright red, pink, apricot yellow, and pure white. It gets its name because the joints connecting the segments resemble a crab's pincers. The leaf-like stems are flat and multi-segmented, thick and fleshy, ovate, bright green, with a truncate apex and coarsely serrated margins. Flowers are borne at the top of the stems, with the perianth opening and recurving; flower colors include light purple, yellow, red, pure white, pink, orange, and bicolor.
Winter Care of Christmas Cactus
1. Light
Christmas cactus is a short-day flower, and with 8 to 10 hours of sunlight per day, it can bloom in 2 to 3 months. In winter, Christmas cactus should be placed in a sunny spot indoors to receive sunlight, so as to promote flower bud differentiation, and the pot should be turned frequently so that all sides receive even sunlight, ensuring flower bud development and balanced blooming. When placing Christmas cactus indoors, attention must be paid to shading, otherwise it is not conducive to flower bud formation.
2. Temperature
As the temperature drops, Christmas cactus should be moved to a sunny spot indoors to avoid frost damage. Room temperature should preferably be maintained at around 15°C. During the flowering period, a temperature of 10°C to 15°C is best; when the temperature is below 5°C or above 20°C, plant growth and flowering are both affected. During flowering, move the pot to a spot with diffused light for care, to extend the ornamental period. Sudden temperature drops or too large a difference between day and night temperatures are most to be avoided; if the temperature suddenly drops below 10°C during the flowering period, bud drop and flower drop will occur.
3. Watering
Although Christmas cactus likes moisture, because its rootstock (such as cactus and triangular column) likes dryness, watering should follow the principle of "better dry than wet, do not water if not dry, water thoroughly when dry." In winter, because the temperature is low, watering should not be excessive, generally once every 4 to 5 days, just keeping the soil moist. Never allow water to accumulate in the pot, otherwise root rot easily occurs. Misting the leaves during the bud stage helps produce more buds, so mist frequently to keep the modified stems and flower buds moist. Once Christmas cactus has flower buds, never let the potting soil become too dry or too wet, so as to avoid bud drop and flower drop.
4. Fertilizing
For Christmas cactus that is forming buds, sufficient fertilizer and water nutrients should be supplied, which is beneficial both to flower bud formation and to vivid flower color. Fertilizing should be mainly phosphorus fertilizer, or a well-decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 7 to 10 days to promote the formation of more flower buds. A 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can also be sprayed on both sides of the leaves and on the flower buds, or mixed into the water when watering (same concentration as above) for application. This flower-promoting fertilization should continue until the flower buds open. After Christmas cactus enters the flowering period, to ensure continuous blooming, a liquid fertilizer or phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied once every 10 to 15 days, or a small amount of compound fertilizer can be applied. If the required nutrients are insufficient, not only will it be difficult for all the flower buds to open, but continuous bud drop and flower drop will also occur.
5. Pruning
Grafted Christmas cactus grows vigorously. Generally, a round support is made from thin bamboo strips or galvanized wire to prop up the drooping stem segments, spreading them out in an umbrella shape all around, and uneven stem segments and diseased or pest-damaged branches are cut off, with overly dense and weak flower buds on the stem segments appropriately thinned. Keep one strong, large flower bud at the end of each segment's leaf and remove the others, which can save nutrients and concentrate them on the retained flower buds, making the buds larger, the flowers uniform in size, and the colors vivid. Because Christmas cactus blooms continuously, spent flowers and the leaf segments at the top should be cut off promptly to save nutrients and build up the plant's vigor.
6. Pest and Disease Control
The most common pest of Christmas cactus is scale insects, which are most easily contracted in poorly ventilated environments in winter. Scale insects are quite harmful to Christmas cactus; in mild cases they cause rust spots on the rootstock and scion, affecting appearance, and in severe cases they lead to plant death. If scale insects are found, they should be removed immediately with a tool; if there are many, they can be brushed off with a soft brush or scraped off with a bamboo strip, then sprayed with a 500- to 800-fold dilution of omethoate, with continuous control 2 to 3 times.
Rot disease in Christmas cactus is caused by poor aeration of the potting soil and prolonged excessive moisture, resulting in rot of the rootstock. It can be sterilized by regularly spraying a 500-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder. If there is localized rot, the rotten part should be cut off with a sterilized sharp knife, and water must not be applied before the wound heals.
In addition, during cultivation, it often happens that some Christmas cactus grow very well but do not bloom or bloom very little. You should then check whether the placement location is appropriate, because it is a short-day plant, and the plant can only form flower buds if it receives less than 10 to 12 hours of light per day. If there is ample light during the day and relatively strong light at night, under such long-light conditions, the plant tends to have difficulty forming flower buds.
Winter Care Tips for Potted Petunia
Winter Care Tips for Potted PetuniaPetunia, also known as garden petunia, is a plant of the genus Petunia in the nightshade family. Petunia has large flowers and rich colors, with many variations in flower form, and has become an important potted and flowerbed plant. Petunia is native to South America, likes warm and sunny environments, is not cold-tolerant, and fears waterlogging. The optimal growth temperature for petunia is 13-18°C; in winter the temperature should be 4-10°C. If below 4°C, plant growth stops, and it can withstand a low temperature of -2°C.
For petunia to overwinter, it should be placed on a windowsill or in a sunny room near a windowsill, and attention should be paid to ventilation. Not only should it be ventilated when first brought indoors, but throughout the winter, windows should also be opened for ventilation at noon on clear days. This can both reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases and help the flowers grow robustly. Sufficient light is a key point for petunia's growth; ensuring enough light is also the key to petunia overwintering.
After the beginning of winter, as the temperature continues to drop, the metabolism of petunia slows down, and it needs very little water and fertilizer. Therefore, watering and fertilizing can continue according to actual needs. Watering always follows the principle of not watering if not dry, and watering thoroughly when watering. If the potting soil is not too dry, do not water; avoid excessive watering that causes root rot and leaf drop or causes young branches to grow excessively, affecting later flower bud differentiation and weakening cold resistance. Water used for watering flowers in winter must be exposed to the sun so that the water temperature is close to room temperature before use. Watering time should be around noon; if watered in the evening, the night is cold and the flower roots are prone to frost damage. As for fertilizing, apply an appropriate amount of nitrogen fertilizer according to growth conditions.
In winter, indoor air is dry, so for petunia, water close to room temperature should often be used to spray and wash the leaf surface, removing dust and keeping it clean, to facilitate photosynthesis. However, spraying water must not add moisture to the pot, to prevent root rot.
In winter, indoor potted flowers are prone to pests such as aphids, whiteflies, and scale insects, and control should be carried out promptly. When aphids appear, fenvalerate generally should not be used for spraying, as it easily causes phytotoxicity and affects growth.