A Detailed Guide to Care Points for Daisies at Different Growth Stages
The daisy is a perennial herbaceous plant in the Asteraceae family. Depending on when it is sown, the daisy can bloom in spring or in summer, and it is also regarded by Italians as their national flower. So how should daisies be cared for at different growth stages?
Daisy
Stage One: Plug seedling stage one
The radicle germination stage begins when the radicle breaks through the seed coat, the young root comes into contact with the soil, and continues until the cotyledons emerge as the first stage. The temperature should be maintained at 18°C. The seeds are light-favoring for germination, so no soil covering is needed when sowing, but the growing medium must be kept moist; never allow the medium to dry out during this stage. During this stage the pH should be kept between 5.5 and 6.2, and the relative humidity at 100%. Direct sunlight should be avoided, and the seeds should be shaded after sowing.
Stage Two: Cotyledon emergence and growth stage
The second stage runs from the emergence of the cotyledons to the appearance of the true leaves. The temperature is still maintained at 18°C. The moisture of the growing medium should be appropriately reduced, but it must still not be too dry; the humidity should be about 70% to 80%, which allows the root system to penetrate the medium and absorb nutrients to support the expansion of the cotyledons. The first and second stages require 14 to 21 days.
Stage Three: True leaf growth and development stage
The third stage runs from the emergence of the true leaves until 80% of the seedlings are ready for sale. The temperature is lowered to about 15°C. Air humidity should also be gradually reduced; between two waterings the medium can be allowed to dry out completely, thus forming a wet-dry cycle that helps promote root development.
Stage Four: Hardening-off stage
At this stage the root system has already formed well, the seedlings are basically ready for sale, and they have become cold-resistant through hardening off; this stage lasts about 7 days. Temperature, humidity, and fertilizer concentration are basically the same as in the third stage. Care should be taken to transplant and pot them up in good time. The third and fourth stages require 7 to 14 days.
Key Points and Precautions for Home Flower Growing in February
February is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year, with monthly average temperatures between -2.5°C (Beijing) and 4.7°C (Shanghai). In the north, the potted ornamental plants that can be displayed in courtyards must be quite cold-tolerant species. Among the woody ornamental plants are: Pinus bungeana, Pinus armandii, Pinus armandii var. mastersiana, Abies firma, Pinus parviflora, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Euonymus japonicus, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus rigida, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Pyracantha fortuneana, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Ginkgo biloba, Butia capitata, Chamaerops humilis, Jubaea chilensis, Washingtonia filifera, Mahonia bealei, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Lagerstroemia indica, etc.; in the south, Ficus microcarpa, Phoenix canariensis, Trachycarpus fortunei, Phoenix sylvestris, Rhapis excelsa, Acacia dealbata, Grevillea robusta, Mahonia fortunei, Fatsia japonica, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Sabal palmetto, Nandina domestica, Cycas revoluta, and Butia capitata, etc. can be displayed. In the less cold areas south of the Yangtze River, some herbaceous flowers can also be displayed, such as ornamental kale, daisy, pansy, Calendula officinalis, Reineckea carnea, Aspidistra elatior, Ophiopogon japonicus, and Liriope spicata, etc. This month, when displaying ornamental plants in the courtyard, various measures should be taken to prevent freezing injury to the plant root systems or frost cracking of flower pots.Propagation of Courtyard Flowers
1. Sowing: In a double-layer plastic greenhouse in the courtyard with relatively good insulation performance, the herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen persicum, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus setaceus, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia × tuberhybrida, Centaurea cyanus, Gaillardia pulchella, Helichrysum bracteatum, Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes patula, Petunia hybrida, Eschscholzia californica, Phlox drummondii, Calceolaria herbeohybrida, Antirrhinum majus, Tropaeolum majus, Viola tricolor, etc. Note that the greenhouse temperature should be kept no lower than the minimum germination temperature for the seeds of each different herbaceous flower species. In addition, the bulbs of Polianthes tuberosa and Hippeastrum rutilum can also be potted in the greenhouse at the end of February.
At the end of this month, in the south, as long as the nursery land is not frozen, the woody ornamental plant species that can be sown in the open ground in the courtyard include: Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, Acer species, and Malus species that have already cracked open and turned white after sand stratification to promote germination, as well as Paeonia suffruticosa, Koelreuteria paniculata, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Aesculus chinensis, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum quihoui, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Trachycarpus fortunei, Firmiana simplex, Pyracantha fortuneana, Osmanthus fragrans, etc. Wisteria sinensis, Syringa oblata, Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, Liriodendron chinense, etc., which have not been sand-stratified, can also be sown at the end of February. For the seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus chinensis, and Liriodendron chinense, which have thicker seed coats, the seeds must first be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sowing should be carried out after the seeds have absorbed enough water.
2. Cuttings: This month, the ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings in the open ground of the courtyard or under plastic film cover include: Prunus mume (referring to one-year-old branches of easily rooting cultivars such as 'Gongfen' and 'Lüe'), Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis (in the south), Edgeworthia chrysantha, Punica granatum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum nudiflorum, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum patulum, Spiraea thunbergii, Mahonia fortunei, Buxus species, Lespedeza bicolor, Chimonanthus praecox (with heel), Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Rosa chinensis (such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, climbing, and miniature cultivars), Ternstroemia gymnanthera, Salix gracilistyla, Spiraea thunbergii, Gardenia jasminoides (in the south), Ligustrum × vicaryi, Berberis thunbergii f. atropurpurea, Ficus carica, etc. The cutting medium can be ordinary sandy loam, or a mixed medium of half vermiculite and half river sand.
This month, as long as a simple or double-layer plastic greenhouse with relatively good insulation performance can maintain a temperature of no less than 5°C to 7°C, the following ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings: Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, Rhododendron hybridum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Lantana camara, Lantana montevidensis, Graptopetalum paraguayense, Crassula ovata, Crassula portulacea, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Echeveria elegans, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum ackermannii, Pilea cadierei, Justicia brandegeeana, Tropaeolum majus, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Ixora chinensis, Tibouchina urvilleana, Schefflera octophylla, Chamaedorea elegans, Ficus elastica, Begonia × semperflorens-cultorum, Begonia maculata, Senecio mandraliscae (commonly known as African jasmine), Ficus microcarpa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Begonia × hiemalis, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa 'Dreamy', Epipremnum aureum, etc. The cutting medium can be peat or a mixed medium of half rice husk ash and half fine sand.
3. Grafting: In late this month, indoors, using one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock, graft Japanese white pine, 'Osaka' pine, 'Nishiki' pine, etc. onto the rootstock by side grafting; cover with plastic film to retain moisture and warmth, and the survival rate is relatively high; using one-year-old seedlings of apricot or wild peach as rootstock, graft by cut grafting Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus mume, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Shoutao', Prunus persica f. atropurpurea, etc.; in the Jiangnan region, when the leaf buds on the rootstock of 2-year-old Chimonanthus praecox seedlings grow to the size of wheat grains, cut grafting can be carried out to propagate excellent cultivars of Chimonanthus praecox such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou', and 'Huti'; by adopting sufficient bagging measures to retain moisture, the survival rate is high; indoors, using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata as rootstock, cut graft Michelia figo, then plant in the ground and cover with plastic film to retain moisture and warmth, and the survival rate is also relatively high; using 'Elizabeth' or wild rose as rootstock, cut grafting or cleft grafting excellent cultivars of Rosa chinensis also gives very good results; using 1- to 2-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum', etc. by aerated bagging; in the south, if the greenhouse temperature can be maintained above 20°C, using Camellia oleifera and Camellia chekiangoleosa as rootstock, carry out truncation single-bud scion bark-tearing side grafting of Camellia japonica, add plastic bag covering to retain warmth, and the survival effect is particularly good.
4. Layering: This month, the ornamental plant species that can be propagated by ground layering include: Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Magnolia denudata, Gardenia jasminoides, Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Weigela florida, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum monogynum, Hydrangea macrophylla, Sabina chinensis, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Michelia figo, etc.; the species that can be propagated by air layering include: Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Camellia japonica, Ficus elastica, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, etc., but the latter three can only be carried out in a greenhouse with relatively high room temperature.
5. Division: This month, the woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Nandina domestica, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum monogynum, Mahonia fortunei, Hydrangea macrophylla, Chaenomeles speciosa, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana sinica, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Damnacanthus indicus, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Bambusa multiplex f. fernleaf, Sasa fortunei, Rhapis excelsa, Prunus japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Agave sisalana, Viburnum awabuki, Cycas revoluta, etc.
This month, the herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon jaburan 'Argenteus', Reineckea carnea, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Rudbeckia laciniata, Convallaria majalis, Oxalis species, Aspidistra species, Iris species, Bromeliaceae species, Sansevieria species, Clivia miniata, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Maranta species, Syngonium podophyllum, Anthurium species, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron species, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Impatiens walleriana, Chlorophytum species, Strelitzia reginae, Aloe vera, Canna indica, Sempervivum tectorum, etc. Note that the less cold-tolerant species should be handled in a greenhouse with relatively good insulation performance, so as to avoid cold injury or freezing injury.
Management of Flowers Planted in the Ground in the Courtyard
1. Transplanting: This month, most flowering shrubs and courtyard landscaping trees can be transplanted and established, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Punica granatum, Cercis chinensis, Malus species, Ginkgo biloba, Acer species, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia denudata, Sapindus mukorossi, Koelreuteria paniculata, Albizia julibrissin, Aesculus chinensis, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Prunus persica f. atropurpurea, Prunus serrulata, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Lagerstroemia indica, Wisteria sinensis, Campsis grandiflora, Tilia tuan, Liriodendron chinense, Sapium sebiferum, Prunus triloba, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Rosa chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Sophora japonica var. pendula, etc.
Because the weather is still quite cold this month, some evergreen courtyard trees, such as Cinnamomum camphora, Viburnum awabuki, Ligustrum lucidum, Elaeocarpus sylvestris, Magnolia grandiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, etc., can be transplanted by conventional methods in the Jiangnan region; between the Yangtze River and the Huai River, severe pruning, large soil balls, wax sealing of cut surfaces, trunk wrapping with rope or bundling should be adopted, or moving southern trees north should preferably be postponed to mid-to-late March.
This month in the Jiangnan region, the herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and established include: Dianthus species, ornamental kale, Calendula officinalis, daisy, etc.; in the colder northern regions, Dianthus, Primula malacoides, Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Viola tricolor, daisy, etc. can first be potted and placed in a greenhouse, and after spring returns and the weather warms, they can be removed from the pots and planted out in the courtyard.
Bonsai enthusiasts can take advantage of winter afforestation site preparation in forestry to collect wild tree stumps, such as Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Wisteria sinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Xylosma racemosum, Rhododendron simsii, Vitex negundo, Euonymus alatus, Syzygium buxifolium, Nandina domestica, etc. After severe pruning, bury them shallowly and mound them high, cover with straw curtains to protect against cold and retain moisture, and they can be cultivated into good stump material.
2. Pruning: For hedges, topiary balls, and ground-planted flowering shrubs that have not yet been pruned in January, continue to seize the favorable opportunity before the trees have begun to sprout and shoot, and carry out comprehensive pruning. For hedges, green walls, and courtyard color blocks, prune according to the requirements of straight lines, flat surfaces, and distinct edges and corners; for the pruning of topiary balls and other geometric-shaped plants, prune according to the requirements of rounded curved surfaces and neat flat planes; for ground-planted flowering shrubs, remove diseased and pest-infested branches and misshapen branches, so that the plants become more attractive in appearance and the interior is penetrated by light. The pruned branches and leaves should be collected and burned, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases and pests in the current year.
3. Watering: Special attention should be paid to watering management for ornamental plants such as flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in late autumn and early winter. If the soil mound at the roots becomes dry, water should be supplemented in good time; if a lot of dust has adhered to the leaf surfaces, water can be sprayed on the branches and leaves at noon on a clear day, to prevent frost or freezing on the leaf surfaces in the early morning of the next day. For the small number of trees transplanted in the courtyard, after thorough watering, straw or plastic film can be spread within a radius of 1 to 1.5 m around the tree base, which can both retain warmth and moisture and help protect the root system.
4. Fertilizing: For ground-planted flowering shrubs in the courtyard that have not yet completed winter fertilization, such as Osmanthus fragrans, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Punica granatum, Malus species, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum monogynum, Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc., seize the time in the first and middle ten days of this month to dig ring-shaped trenches around the outer edge of their root bases and bury an appropriate amount of cake fertilizer or compound fertilizer, generally 1 jin per plant, to meet the needs of their continuous growth in the current year; in the Jiangnan region, for ground-planted herbaceous flowers transplanted in late autumn and early winter, such as Dianthus, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Alcea rosea, Malva sinensis, etc., a light application of dilute fertilizer water can be added once at the end of the month to promote their normal vegetative growth.
5. Pest and disease control: Seize the time to clear and sweep up weeds and fallen leaves in the courtyard and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases and pests in the current year; inspect the trunks of courtyard flowers and trees, and if egg masses, pupae, etc. are found, scrape them off and destroy them in good time; inspect the plants, and if branches and leaves infected with diseases or pests are found, cut them off and burn them in good time; for aphids found on the plants, plant ash or tobacco powder can be spread to eliminate them.
6. Turning the soil: In the first ten days of this month, seize the time to dig over the plots in the courtyard intended for cuttings, sowing, or planting out in the current year, and at the same time apply cake fertilizer, pond sludge, barnyard manure, etc. (except for plots used for cuttings). After freezing and weathering the soil, in March ditches can then be drawn and beds made, which can significantly reduce the harm of underground pests to seedlings in the current year. In addition, idle plots under courtyard trees should also be dug over, which can both reduce diseases and pests and benefit the growth of flowers and trees in the current year.
7. Fertilizer preparation: In the first ten days of this month, put rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, chicken manure, pigeon manure, etc. into jars or tanks, add water, seal, and ferment; this can be used for watering ground-planted trees and potted plants in spring and summer. Mix pig manure, chicken manure, cake fertilizer, etc. with pond sludge and garden soil, then seal and compost; this can be used to prepare potting soil and for topdressing flowers and trees. Dry the dead branches, fallen leaves, and weeds cleared from the courtyard, then pile and burn them in alternating layers with garden soil; the resulting burned soil can be used both for covering seeds after sowing and for preparing potting soil.
8. Seed collection: Not many seeds can be collected in February, only those flower and tree species whose fruits can persist on the branches for a relatively long time, such as Pyracantha fortuneana, Ligustrum lucidum, Nandina domestica, Ilex species, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum lucidum, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', and Zanthoxylum species; after collection, they should be processed in good time and sand-stratified to promote germination, so as to sow from late March to early April. In the greenhouse, seeds of Asparagus setaceus, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Rhapis excelsa, Butia capitata, Clivia miniata, etc. can also be collected, and should be sown as soon as collected.
9. Inspection: This month, the sand-stored seeds should be inspected frequently, such as Magnolia species, Michelia species, Manglietia species, Photinia species, Ilex species, Ligustrum species, Osmanthus species, to see whether any seeds have become moldy. If moldy and rotten seeds are found, the seeds should be rinsed in good time and the wet sand replaced for re-storage; if the seeds are dry, appropriate water spraying can be given to increase humidity; if the seeds have already cracked open and turned white, they should be sown in the ground in good time, and covered with plastic film to retain warmth and moisture. In addition, the sand-stored dahlia tubers and canna rhizomes kept indoors should also be inspected to prevent mold and rot.
Management of Potted Flowers in the Courtyard
1. Watering: For some relatively cold-tolerant potted ornamental plant species placed in the courtyard, such as pines and cypresses, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Lagerstroemia indica, Vitex negundo, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Malus halliana, etc., water once every half month around noon, just keeping the potting soil moist and not frozen; for Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Daphne odora, Malus species, Rhododendron hybridum, etc. placed in the greenhouse, because their flower buds are in the swelling stage or just beginning to open, in addition to keeping the potting soil moist, water should also be frequently absorbed by the branches, creating a relatively moist small environment for them; for foliage plants placed in the greenhouse, watering should be well controlled, and the plants can be sprayed with water once a week around noon, with the water temperature basically the same as the greenhouse temperature, and no water should remain on the leaf surfaces at night, so as not to damage the root system and leaves.
2. Fertilizing: This month, the vast majority of potted flowers and trees in the courtyard are still in a dormant state and do not need topdressing, but for some tall potted plants, if repotting is not planned in spring, a ring-shaped trench can be dug around the potting soil and a small amount of decomposed cake fertilizer powder or multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer granules buried in it; for Prunus mume, peach, peony, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, Daphne odora, Malus species, etc. placed in the greenhouse, if the greenhouse temperature exceeds 10°C, a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be applied; for bromeliads, Cymbidium faberi, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense, Pericallis hybrida, Hyacinthus orientalis, Schlumbergera truncata, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Strelitzia reginae, etc. placed in the greenhouse, as long as the temperature is not lower than 15°C, low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can continue to be applied as topdressing; for foliage plants placed in the greenhouse, if the temperature is lower than 10°C, their root systems are still dormant, and all forms of topdressing should be stopped.
3. Pruning: This month is the last month of winter. For potted ornamental plants placed in the courtyard that have not yet completed pruning, seize the time to prune; for potted plants that have been shaped for more than a year but have not yet been tied, first untie the binding material, and for branch layers that have not yet been pulled and tied into place, change the angle and position anew and pull and guide them separately, so as to avoid the death of branch layers caused by too long a binding time. For potted foliage plants placed in the greenhouse, promptly cut off dead branches and yellow leaves on the plants.
4. Cold protection: For potted flowers placed in the greenhouse, if a severe cold wave moves south and a large temperature drop occurs, 1 to 2 far-infrared electric heating films can be added in the greenhouse, which can raise the greenhouse temperature by 2°C to 3°C. For large stump bonsai placed in the courtyard, in particularly cold weather, sawdust, straw, burlap, plastic film, etc. can be covered over the pot surface and around it for warmth.
5. Pest and disease control: For potted ornamental plants placed in the greenhouse, special attention should be paid to controlling aphids, scale insects, and whiteflies; for greenhouses with relatively high humidity, attention should be paid to ventilation around noon when the temperature is relatively high, to prevent large-scale gray mold, such as on Begonia × hiemalis, Begonia × tuberhybrida, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, etc. For potted plants that had diseases and pests last year, the dead branches, fallen leaves, and weeds on the pot surface around them should be cleaned up together and burned in a centralized manner; for some large stumps with part of the trunk xylem exposed, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the exposed parts to prevent rot of the stump trunk or insect damage.
6. Soil preparation: In the first ten days of this month, seize the time to prepare potting soil. Use 5 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part river sand, 2 parts decomposed sawdust or tobacco powder, plus 5% decomposed cake fertilizer and 3% multi-element compound fertilizer. Mix thoroughly and evenly, then pile it up and cover the top with plastic film, ready for repotting or potting in spring.
Balcony Flower Care Schedule
Bonsai Suitable for Display on the Balcony
The weather is cold this month. On open balconies north of the Huai River, it is still not suitable to place potted ornamental plants, unless they are species that are very cold-tolerant, drought-tolerant, and resistant to cold wind, such as Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Juniperus rigida, Punica granatum, Ginkgo biloba, etc. On open balconies south of the Huai River, plant species that have been hardened over a long period, have strong resistance, and are quite cold-tolerant can be displayed, such as Pinus thunbergii, Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Euonymus alatus, etc., but the potting soil should also be prevented from freezing. In the south, if the temperature on the balcony is not lower than 5°C, then Cycas revoluta, Aucuba japonica, Mahonia bealei, Butia capitata, Rhapis excelsa, Chamaerops humilis, Butia capitata, Fraxinus chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. can be displayed.
Propagation of Balcony Flowers
1. Sowing: Inside an enclosed balcony, use a large flower pot filled with potting soil to sow Cycas revoluta, Rhapis excelsa, Asparagus setaceus, Clivia miniata, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Osmanthus fragrans, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, Ginkgo biloba, etc., and seedlings can emerge in spring.
2. Cuttings: Inside an enclosed balcony, use a wide-mouthed large flower pot as the container, and use vermiculite or peat mixed with 1/5 river sand as the cutting medium, carry out fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings, maintaining a temperature of no less than 5°C. Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus elastica, Lantana camara, Pelargonium hortorum, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Aucuba japonica, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Crassula ovata, Crassula portulacea, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Epiphyllum ackermannii, etc. can be propagated by cuttings.
Management of Potted Flowers on the Balcony
1. Watering: For those plant species placed on a fully enclosed balcony that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, Calendula officinalis, etc., and for fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha fortuneana, Nandina domestica, Citrus aurantium 'Daidai', Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, Ligustrum lucidum, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits; only in this way can the leaf color be emerald green, the flower buds swell rapidly, and the fruits be brightly colored. For Cymbidium faberi, Euphorbia pulcherrima, etc. purchased back after being cultivated in a greenhouse, because the temperature and humidity in their original environment differ greatly from those in the home, if the leaf surfaces are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves will often shrink and dry up. For various bromeliads, if the room temperature is lower than 10°C to 15°C, not only should watering be controlled, but also too much water should not be poured into the leaf cups, to prevent heart rot. For potted ornamental plants in the south that continue to be kept on the balcony, it is suitable to keep the potting soil moist.
2. Fertilizing: For potted ornamental plants placed on a fully enclosed balcony, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, Daphne odora, Clivia miniata, Prunus mume, Cyclamen persicum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium sinense, bromeliads, Calceolaria herbeohybrida, Pericallis hybrida, Strelitzia reginae, Primula malacoides, Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, etc., as long as the room temperature is not lower than 15°C, low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can continue to be applied as topdressing. For stump bonsai and potted foliage plants that have entered a dormant state, all forms of topdressing should be stopped.
3. Pruning: For potted ornamental plants placed on a fully enclosed balcony, cut off dead branches, yellow leaves, and branches and leaves infected with diseases and pests, then destroy them; for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Sageretia thea, Ulmus parvifolia, Distylium racemosum, Acer buergerianum, etc. in the north, and Carmona retusa, Murraya paniculata, Ficus microcarpa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Zanthoxylum beecheyanum, Pistacia weinmannifolia, etc. in the south, seize the time to carry out a comprehensive and thorough pruning, so that the crown shape is elegant and the layers are distinct; for plants that have been wired and shaped for 2 years, first remove the binding material, and if the expected fixed shaping effect has not yet been achieved, change the angle and position anew and then wire and shape again.
4. Cold protection: Determine whether the potted plants placed on the balcony should be moved into an ordinary indoor space to escape the cold, placed in an air-conditioned room for care, or directly covered with a double-layer plastic tunnel on the balcony for cold protection, according to the lower limit temperature that different ornamental plant species can tolerate. For potted plants placed on balconies in the south, at night it is best to cover and tie the pot surface and around the flower pot with burlap, etc.
5. Pest and disease control: Apply lime-sulfur mixture to the exposed xylem on the main trunk and large branches of stump bonsai to prevent mold and insect damage. For scale insects, whiteflies, etc. appearing on potted plants, promptly wipe them off with a damp cloth; for aphids appearing on potted plants, tobacco powder (or tobacco shreds) soaked in water can be used to kill them.
Planting and Planning of Landscape and Horticultural Plants
The process of urbanization has driven the prosperity of urban landscape design across the country. As urban functions gradually improve, parks, greening plazas, ecological corridors, and suburban scenic areas have increasingly become modern symbols of cities and inevitable ways to enhance urban environmental quality, improve the quality of life, and satisfy cultural pursuits. It can thus be seen that the concepts of landscape planning and design are gradually deepening and improving, and the field is also broadening.
1. Arrangement
According to the ecological habits of plants and the requirements of garden layout, rationally arrange various plants in the garden (trees, shrubs, flowers, turf, and ground cover plants, etc.), so as to bring into play their garden functions and ornamental characteristics. Garden plant arrangement is an important part of garden planning and design.
The arrangement of garden plants includes two aspects: on the one hand, the arrangement among various plants, considering the selection of plant species, the combination of tree clusters, the composition of plane and elevation, color, seasonal appearance, and garden artistic conception; on the other hand, the arrangement between garden plants and other garden elements such as rockery, water bodies, buildings, garden paths, etc.
2. Seasonal Appearance
The appearance displayed by plants in different seasons. During the growth process of plants through the four seasons of the year, the shapes and colors of leaves, flowers, and fruits change with the seasons. When flowering, fruiting, or when leaf color changes, they have relatively high ornamental value. Garden plant arrangement should make full use of the seasonal appearance characteristics of plants.
In different climatic zones, the times at which plant seasonal appearances are displayed differ. The spring color seasonal appearance in Beijing comes later than in Hangzhou, while the autumn color seasonal appearance appears earlier than in Hangzhou. Even in the same region, whether the climate is normal or not often affects the time and color of the seasonal appearance. Low temperature and drought will delay the sprouting and flowering of vegetation; red leaves generally need a large temperature difference between day and night to turn red, and if the frost period occurs too early, the leaves will fall before turning red, and a beautiful autumn color cannot be produced. Factors such as soil and maintenance management also affect changes in seasonal appearance, so seasonal appearance changes can be controlled artificially. For exhibition needs, special treatments can even be used on potted plants to force or delay the flowering period or to make plants with different flowering periods bloom at the same time.
Making use of the seasonal appearance of plants with relatively high ornamental value and distinctive characteristics in garden plant arrangement can give people hints of the season, enhance the sense of season, and display the unique artistic effect of plants in garden landscapes. For example, mountain flowers are brilliant in spring, lotus reflects the sun in summer, abundant fruits fill the garden in autumn, and wintersweet fragrance drifts in winter. The requirement for a garden to have scenery in all four seasons is in terms of the overall landscape of a region or a park; in local scenic areas, the characteristics of one or two seasons are often highlighted, mostly by using a single species or several plants in mass plantings. For example, the peaches and willows of Su Causeway in Hangzhou are spring scenery, the lotus at Quyuan Fenghe is summer scenery, the osmanthus at Manjuelong is autumn scenery, and enjoying plum blossoms in the snow at Gushan is winter scenery. In order to avoid the phenomenon of monotony during periods when the seasonal appearance is not obvious, methods such as mixed arrangement of trees with different flowering periods and increasing evergreen trees and herbaceous flowers can be used to extend the ornamental period. For example, in Wuxi Plum Garden, osmanthus is mixed among plum blossoms, so plum blossoms are viewed in spring, osmanthus appreciated in autumn, and the evergreen osmanthus leaves can also be seen in winter. The peony garden in Huagang Guanyu in Hangzhou is dominated by peonies, with Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Buxus sinica, Lagerstroemia indica, pine trees, etc. arranged, so that after the peonies fade, a good landscape effect is still maintained.
3. Lawn
A manually trimmed, flat artificial grassland formed by densely planting perennial low-growing herbaceous plants is called a lawn, while an untrimmed long-grass area is called grassland. The main herbaceous plants used for urban and garden lawns include Zoysia japonica, Buchloe dactyloides, Cynodon dactylon, Axonopus compressus, Stenotaphrum secundatum, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Lolium perenne, Poa annua, Agrostis matsumurae, etc.
Lawns are generally set in front of houses, around large buildings, in plazas or forest clearings, for viewing, recreation, or use as sports grounds. Regular-style grasslands already existed in ancient Western gardens. In the mid-18th century, after the appearance of the English natural landscape garden, natural-style lawns began to be used on a large scale in gardens. Ancient Chinese imperial parks and menageries had large areas of open woodland and grassland, but lawns only appeared in modern gardens.
Lawns have the following classification methods:
According to the combination of plant materials, they can be divided into: 1. Pure lawn. A lawn made of one kind of plant material. 2. Mixed lawn. A lawn composed of multiple plant materials. 3. Flower-dotted lawn. A lawn mainly composed of perennial low-growing grasses or grass-like plants, mixed with a small amount of herbaceous flowers.
According to use, lawns can be divided into: 1. Recreational lawn. Can be opened for people to enter for rest, walking, games, and other outdoor activities. Generally, grass species with fine leaves, relatively strong toughness, and relatively high trampling tolerance are selected. 2. Ornamental lawn. Not open, and people cannot enter for recreation. Generally, grass species with uniformly emerald green color, a relatively long green period, heat tolerance, and cold resistance are selected. 3. Sports field lawn. Different grass species are selected according to the requirements of different sports; some require grass species with fine and soft leaves, some require grass species with tough leaves, and some require grass species with well-developed underground stems. 4. Traffic safety lawn. Mainly set along land transportation routes, especially on both sides of expressways, and on airport aprons. 5. Soil-conserving and slope-protecting lawn. Used to prevent soil and water from being washed away and to prevent dust from flying. Mainly grass species with rapid growth, well-developed root systems, or creeping habit are selected.
Lawns are mainly used in the following aspects:
Environmental protection. In garden green spaces, both lawns and trees play roles in purifying air, preventing heat and lowering temperature, adsorbing dust, and reducing noise, and can protect the environment and maintain ecological balance. Lawn grass has small individuals, large numbers, occupies little space, grows rapidly, has strong adaptability, is easy to establish, and gives quick greening effects. Grass grows close to the ground, and its functions of preventing dust from flying and soil and water loss are significant. Lawns form ventilation channels in green spaces and can improve the living environment in tropical regions.
Garden art. Lawn space is similar to water space, plaza space, etc.; it can open up a broad line of sight, guide the line of sight, increase depth of field and layers, and fully express the beauty of terrain.
Urban construction. Lawns are often used in places in modern cities that need low green space, such as along roads, under high-voltage power lines, and where the soil layer above underground facilities is relatively thin.
Construction
There are mainly four methods of lawn construction: 1. Direct sowing of grass seed. Generally carried out in spring and autumn. Cold-season grasses mostly use this method. 2. Direct planting of grass. Generally carried out in spring and summer. This method is mostly used in northern China. 3. Propagation by stem and branch segments. Generally carried out in summer or the rainy season. Warm-season lawns mostly use this method. 4. Direct laying of grass blocks. It can be carried out in all four seasons in warm regions; in northern China, this method is used in summer and autumn to lay sports field lawns.
At present, the method of directly sowing to build lawns is widely adopted. The spray-seeding method can be used to spray a mixture of grass seed, adhesive, and fertilizer onto rocky slopes to force grass to grow, or grass seed can be placed in advance on non-woven fabric to germinate and grow into lawn vegetation belts, which are then laid on the ground to form a lawn. The advantages of the direct sowing method are: less grass seed used, uniform distribution, neat seedling emergence, ability to prevent weeds from growing, not being washed away when planted on slopes, and the ability to form various patterns. In addition, seeds or stem and branch segments can be used in advance to produce grass blocks under soilless or thin-soil conditions, or strip-shaped grass blocks can be rolled into grass rolls, which can be laid indoors or outdoors at any time, and can take shape immediately after laying. Lawn construction is currently trending toward factory-based seedling production.
Maintenance
The key points of lawn maintenance are: 1. In the first year, weeds must be continuously removed. 2. Prune in good time. Prune when the grass grows to 4-10 cm high, and the amount pruned each time should not exceed half of the grass height. Lawns are generally kept 2-5 cm high. 3. During the growing season, it is suitable to apply granular mixed fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Generally applied after pruning and before sprinkler irrigation. 4. Lawns should not be used excessively. Periods of use and periods of maintenance should be stipulated, and regular zoned rotation should be used. 5. Pay attention to the prevention and control of lawn diseases and pests. Replant in good time and replace dead or damaged parts.
4. Flower Bed
A garden facility in which ornamental plants are planted in a certain range of raised beds according to regular or semi-regular patterns to express the collective beauty of flowers.
Classification
There are several classification methods: 1. According to form, they can be divided into two categories: three-dimensional flower beds and flat flower beds. Flat flower beds can further be divided by composition form into three types: regular, natural, and mixed. 2. According to ornamental season, they can be divided into spring flower beds, summer flower beds, autumn flower beds, and winter flower beds. 3. According to planting material, they can be divided into annual and biennial herbaceous flower beds, bulb flower beds, aquatic flower beds, and specialized flower beds (such as chrysanthemum beds and aster beds), etc. 4. According to expression form, they can be divided into: flower cluster beds, which use flower clusters high in the center and low at the edges to form color block patterns, to express the beauty of flower color; embroidered-style flower beds or carpet bedding, which win by floral patterns, usually using low-growing colorful foliage plants as the main material, not limited by flowering period, and appropriately matched with some short herbaceous flowers with small and dense flowers, with a particularly long ornamental period. 5. According to the way flower beds are used, they can be divided into single flower beds, continuous flower beds, and grouped flower beds. In modern times, mobile flower beds have also appeared, composed of many potted flowers, suitable for paved ground and indoor decoration.
Paper on Garden Plant Arrangement and Planning from
Design
First, the garden scenery theme, position, form, color combination, and other factors to be expressed must be considered from the surrounding overall environment. In specific design, graph paper can be used, at a scale of 1:20 to 1:100, to draw in detail the patterns, the flower species or cultivars arranged, the number of plants, height, planting spacing, etc., with an attached implementation description. Designers must have a full understanding of garden art theory as well as the growth and flowering habits, ecological habits, and ornamental characteristics of plant materials. A good design must take into account continuous flowering from spring to autumn, and make plans for replacing flower species and changing patterns in different seasons.
Herbaceous flowers used in flower beds should preferably be cultivars with neat plant form, many flowers, neat flowering, and a long flowering period, bright flower color, drought tolerance, resistance to diseases and pests, and dwarf habit. Commonly used ones include Antirrhinum majus, daisy, Calendula officinalis, Callistephus chinensis, Celosia argentea, Dianthus chinensis, Petunia hybrida, Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Viola tricolor, Zinnia elegans, etc. (see Garden Plants).
Flower beds are mainly used in front of buildings, at entrances, in plazas, beside roads in regular-style gardens, or on lawns in natural-style gardens. The traditional Chinese ornamental flower form is the flower terrace, mostly raised several tens of centimeters from the ground, with a border built of brick or stone, and soil filled in the middle for planting flowers and plants. Sometimes the edge of the flower bed is surrounded by a low fence, such as a peony terrace or a herbaceous peony railing.
5. Flower Border
A kind of flower bed, in which shrubs and ornamental herbaceous plants are planted in a relatively natural way, forming a long strip shape, mainly for viewing from one side. The English word flowerborder is also translated as flower border or flower path.
Flower borders are divided according to the plants planted into annual plant flower borders, perennial plant flower borders, and mixed planting flower borders, with the latter being the most common. In design, flower borders should mainly use perennial flowers, appropriately matched with some annual and biennial herbaceous flowers and bulb flowers or low shrubs that have been shaped and pruned. Generally, taller species are planted at the back and shorter ones at the front, but rigid rows of tall and short, front and back should be avoided; occasionally a small number of tall plants can be slightly projected forward, forming an uneven and natural interest. In order to strengthen the color effect, various flowers should be planted in groups and clumps; attention should also be paid to the coordination of flower color and flowering period among the clumps and groups, requiring a naturally harmonious beauty overall. Hedges, walls, or shrub clusters are often used as the background. The width of a flower border is generally 1-2 m. If the ground is relatively wide, it is best to leave a 1.2-1.3 m open space between the flower border and the background hedge, planted with turf or paved with pebbles as a separation zone, so as to prevent tree roots from affecting the growth of flower border plants and also facilitate the maintenance and management of the plants behind the flower border and the hedge. Because perennial flowers will expand their growth area year by year, when first planting, appropriate space should be left between the clumps and groups, and annual, biennial, or bulb flowers should be planted to fill the gaps. Perennial flowers can be replaced once every three or four years, or a portion of the plants can be replaced each year, to facilitate renewal and rejuvenation of the plants. Usually, attention should be paid to watering and removing weeds and dead flowers and leaves, maintaining the beautiful, elegant, and vibrant state of the flower border. In early winter, semi-hardy species should be covered with fallen leaves, wormwood, and soil for safe overwintering.
6. Hedge
A fence wall formed by densely planting trees or shrubs in rows, also called green hedge or living fence.
The main uses of hedges in gardens are: enclosing sites, dividing space, screening or guiding the line of sight to focal points of scenery, serving as the background for statues, fountains, small garden facilities, etc., and adopting special planting methods to form specialized scenic areas (such as mazes). In modern times there is also "hedge landscaping", which combines the garden scenery theme with flexible planting methods and shaping and pruning techniques to form a garden landscape like strange rocks and huge stones rolling and undulating.
China already used hedges thousands of years ago; in the Book of Songs there is "break willow to fence the garden." Later, hedges were mostly used as outer protective fences for residential courtyards and vegetable gardens, and were not fully utilized in gardens. Hedges are widely used in European gardens; in the 16th-17th centuries they were often used as edging for roads and flower beds. In the 17th-18th centuries, sculptural hedges were prevalent, processing the top or head and tail of the hedge into the shapes of birds and beasts; in the regular-style gardens of emperors and large estate owners, evergreen plants such as boxwood were often pruned into low narrow hedges and arranged into various geometric shapes. Since the early 20th century, hedges have been relatively commonly used in newly built parks and urban green spaces in China.
Hedges can be divided by height into low hedges (below 0.5 m), medium hedges (0.5-1.5 m), and tall hedges (above 1.5 m). The main use of low hedges is to enclose garden plots and serve as decoration; the use of tall hedges is to divide different spaces and screen scenery. Using tall hedges to form an enclosed sightline is far more lively than using walls, etc. As the background for statues, fountains, and artistic facility scenery, tall hedges especially create a beautiful atmosphere.
Hedges can be divided by planting method into single-row and double-row types. In Chinese gardens, the double-row type in a triangular arrangement is generally used for quick effect; some garden designers advocate the single-row type, on the grounds that the single-row type is conducive to balanced growth of plants, while the double-row type is not only not conducive to balanced growth but also costly and prone to breeding weeds.
Hedges can be divided by maintenance and management method into natural type and formal type. The former generally receives only a small amount of pruning to regulate growth vigor, while the latter requires regular shaping and pruning to maintain its body shape and appearance. In the same scenic area, natural hedges and formal hedges can form completely different landscapes, and one must be good at using them.
Hedges can be divided by plant species and their ornamental characteristics into green hedges, colored-leaf hedges, flower hedges, fruit hedges, branch hedges, thorn hedges, etc., and must be carefully selected and planned according to the garden scenery theme and environmental conditions. For example, for green hedges of coniferous tree species, some leaves have the texture of golden velvet, giving people a peaceful, soft, and cheerful feeling; some leaves are dark green in color and hard in texture, forming a serious and solemn atmosphere; broad-leaved evergreen tree species are numerous and diverse, giving even more different effects. Another example is flower hedges: not only do flower color and flowering period differ, but there are also differences in flower size, shape, and presence or absence of fragrance, forming scenes of different moods; as for fruit hedges, in addition to differences in size, shape, and color, they can also attract different kinds of birds.
Tree species used as hedges must have habits such as strong sprouting ability, strong branching ability, strong callus ability, tolerance to pruning, strong shade tolerance, and few diseases and pests. The planting method for hedges is to first deeply plow and prepare the soil in the predetermined planting belt, apply base fertilizer, and then, depending on the expected height and type of the hedge, plant at spacings of about 20, 40, or 80 cm respectively. After planting, water thoroughly and prune in good time. The principles of maintenance pruning are: for formal hedges, the lower branches and leaves should be exposed to sunlight as much as possible, so as not to wither due to excessive shading; therefore the lower part of the crown should be broad and it should become narrower toward the top, usually best using a regular trapezoid or steamed-bun shape. For natural hedges, appropriate measures to regulate tree vigor and renew and rejuvenate must be taken according to the respective habits of different tree species and the local climate.
7. Climbing
A greening form that uses climbing plants to decorate buildings. In addition to beautifying the environment, climbing greening also has the functions of increasing leaf area and green visibility rate, blocking sunlight, lowering temperature, and adsorbing dust, thereby improving environmental quality.
Climbing greening has the following characteristics:
1. Diverse uses. Climbing greening is a decorative art in which climbing plants attach to buildings, and the greening forms can change with the shape of the building. Climbing plants can be used to green walls, balconies, and roofs, decorate lamp posts, fences, pavilions, corridors, flower stands, and entrances and exits, and can also screen buildings with poor landscape appearance.
2. Very little land occupied. Because climbing plants grow by attaching to buildings, they occupy very little land. In cities with large populations, high building density, and insufficient greening land, the superiority of climbing greening is especially demonstrated.
3. Easy propagation. Climbing plants are convenient to propagate, grow quickly, cost little, and are simple to manage. Herbaceous climbing plants sown in the current year can produce benefits in the same year. Woody climbing plants are usually propagated by methods such as cuttings and layering, are easy to root, and some can be propagated several times a year.
Selection of Climbing Plants
Climbing plants have climbing organs. For example, hyacinth bean, morning glory, passionflower, honeysuckle, wisteria and others have twining stems; Boston ivy and Virginia creeper have suckers; grape and loofah have tendrils; climbing fig and ivy have aerial roots; banksia rose and wild rose have arching runners or hooked thorns. Climbing greenery can be arranged according to the adhesion or climbing ability of climbing plants - for example, plants with suckers or aerial roots have strong adhesion power and are suitable for wall greening coverage; plants with twining stems, tendrils or hooked thorns have relatively strong climbing ability and are suitable for greening decoration of flower stands, balconies, fences and the like. Plant species can also be selected according to local conditions based on the ecological habits of climbing plants. The more cold-tolerant Boston ivy, honeysuckle, wisteria, Virginia creeper and mountain grape are suitable for cultivation in northern China; while in southern China, in addition to the above plants, ivy, star jasmine, trumpet creeper, climbing fig, Mucuna and banksia rose can also be used. Sun-loving trumpet creeper, wisteria and grape are suitable for planting on the sunny side of buildings; shade-tolerant ivy, Boston ivy and the like are suitable for planting in the shady areas of buildings.
8. Ancient Trees
Ancient trees refer to old trees that have grown for more than a hundred years; famous trees refer to trees that have social influence and are world-renowned, and their age often also exceeds a hundred years. Ancient trees that have grown for more than a hundred years have entered a slow growth stage, with extremely slow trunk diameter increase, and in form give people a sense of having weathered many storms and being vigorous and ancient. Most of the world's long-lived trees are pine and cypress species, oak species, fir species, banyan species, as well as pagoda tree, ginkgo and others. Famous trees are famous either for their peculiar posture and extremely high ornamental value, such as the "Guest-Greeting Pine" in Huangshan, China; or for historical events, such as the Han cypress in the Dai Temple on Mount Tai, which was planted by Emperor Wu of Han, Liu Che, when he performed the Feng and Shan sacrifices. Or they are famous for legends and strange tales, such as the "Yellow Emperor's Hand-Planted Cypress" in the Xuanyuan Temple in Huangling, Shaanxi, which is nearly 20 m tall and 10 m in circumference at the base, and is the largest cypress in China. It is said to have been planted by the legendary Yellow Emperor Xuanyuan, the ancestor of the Chinese nation; such as the "Hundred-Horse Chestnut Tree" on Mount Etna on the island of Sicily in the Mediterranean, whose huge and dense shade is said to have sheltered an ancient king, queen and their accompanying hundred horsemen from wind and rain. The ginkgo tree in Tanzhe Temple in Beijing (called the "Emperor Tree") is said to have been planted in the Liao Dynasty, is more than 30 m tall and 4 m in diameter.
The significance of protecting ancient and famous trees: 1. Ancient and famous trees are witnesses to history. Many ancient and famous trees have experienced the replacement of dynasties, the joys and sorrows of the people, and the vicissitudes of the world, and can be used to write explanations and popularize historical knowledge. 2. Ancient and famous trees add brilliance to culture and art; they are subjects of poetry and painting by literati through the ages, and are often accompanied by beautiful legends and wonderful stories. 3. Ancient and famous trees are also fine scenery of scenic spots and historical sites, such as the "Crouching Dragon Pine" in Jietai Temple in Beijing, whose iron-hard twisted branches are like an azure dragon soaring, giving people aesthetic enjoyment. 4. Ancient trees are important materials for studying natural history; their complex annual ring structure contains the history of changes in ancient hydrology, ancient geography and ancient vegetation. 5. Ancient trees are of special significance for studying tree physiology. People cannot use tracking methods to study the physiological process of long-lived trees from birth to death, but ancient trees of different ages can exist at the same time, and can present the temporal sequence of tree growth and development as a spatial arrangement, which is beneficial to scientific research. ⑥ Ancient trees have great reference value for tree species planning.
In view of the important value of ancient and famous trees, many countries have carried out research work on protection and rejuvenation. The first is to organize professionals or establish associations of ancient and famous tree enthusiasts to conduct visits and investigations, register them by grade, and keep cards and files. The second is to adopt various protection measures, such as installing lightning rods to prevent lightning strikes; loosening soil, watering and fertilizing at appropriate times, and preventing and controlling pests and diseases; filling and plugging tree holes to prevent them from spreading and expanding; and using supports for trees that lean or have drooping branches. The third is to rescue and rejuvenate endangered ancient and famous trees, such as adopting technical measures such as replacing the soil around the roots, burying tree branches underground and laying trapezoidal bricks or turf that are large at the top and small at the bottom to increase aeration, so that a group of pine and cypress trees that were gradually decaying have regained their vitality.