A Detailed Guide to Natural Orchid Cultivation and Shoot Production Techniques
OrchidsCultivation: On theOrchid's Natural Cultivation and Shoot Production (Repost)
I. Light and Temperature Difference
Generally speaking, when the temperature does not exceed 30°C, let sunlight shine directly without shading, provided there is ventilation (ventilation prevents the plants from becoming stuffy and increases the carbon dioxide content needed for photosynthesis), and keep glass out of the way as much as possible, with the ultimate goal of increasing the efficiency of photosynthesis. Above 30°C, shade to control the temperature, and maintain indoor brightness as much as possible through methods such as reflection, also for the purpose of increasing photosynthesis. Ventilate at night to increase the oxygen content and help respiration, strive to widen the temperature difference, and reduce the energy consumed by respiration, so as to help the storage of organic matter, making theorchid plantssturdy, with a visibly enlarged pseudobulb and thick, substantial foliage. During the growing period, as long as the temperature is not below the growth temperature (generally 15 or 16°C), the greater the temperature difference, the better; during the dormant period, it is best not to go below 0°C. But as long as they are sheltered from the wind and the potting medium is on the dry side, they generally will not suffer frost damage within -5°C.
Traditional cultivation advocates growing orchids in shade, but in fact, as long as humidity is ensured and temperature is controlled, orchids can withstand quite intense light. Seek out the orchid's growth point in different environments, and use one month to accumulate the plant energy and organic matter storage that others need 1.5 months, or even 2 months or longer, to achieve; the results will be unexpected.
Sun-grown plants tend to be shorter, which actually helps the flower spike rise above the leaves, but careless management easily causes scorched leaf tips; large clumps are better suited to sun cultivation.
II. Rational Fertilization
Fertilization is a beneficial and necessary supplement to make orchid plants sturdy. Photosynthesis consumes large amounts of water and nutrients. For potted orchids, frequent watering causes great nutrient loss. Orchid enthusiasts in some areas of Zhejiang use alpine humus soil, which is rich in fertility and relatively complete in elements, so fertilization can be appropriately reduced; but some enthusiasts use granular media bought on the market, such as Xiantu and Zhijinshi, which are relatively lacking in nutrients, so fertilization should be appropriately increased. According to different media, applying different fertilizers at different stages is very important. The application of bone meal or monopotassium phosphate has a direct effect on promoting and strengthening shoots. Many books and experience reports can be consulted, but do not overapply. During the growing period, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied in a biased way; if you do not want it to bloom, then during the maturation period also apply nitrogen fertilizer in a biased way. The reason is simple: orchids are leaf-growing plants. Adapt to local conditions, and according to different media formulas, alternate root fertilizer and foliar fertilizer.
Points to note in fertilization: 1. Slowly explore the mixing ratios. Different fertilizers, different cultivation environments and conditions, and different varieties have different fertilizer needs. Better to be on the dilute side; do not rush for quick results, and do not blindly imitate and copy, or it will backfire; 2. Soil fertilizer (organic fertilizer) is superior to chemical fertilizer. This is the plant's nature; the biological characteristics and closeness make soil fertilizer easier to absorb, so when applying chemical fertilizer, mixing in some composted soil fertilizer gives better results; 3. Recommended soil fertilizers: rapeseed cake, legumes, and urine composted fertilizer. 4. The use of foliar fertilizer helps increase leaf count and rejuvenate weak plants, but it will cause old plants to decline and die off faster.
III. Withholding Water to Promote Shoots
The so-called water withholding means letting the potting medium dry out in the early stage before orchid sprouting, for 3-5 days, generally 1-2 times. Water withholding puts the orchid in a kind of survival crisis, forcing it to grow and reproduce, so the effect on producing more shoots is obvious. During water withholding, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be applied in combination.
Clumps that are too large squeeze each other and are not conducive to sprouting, so they should be divided appropriately. Too single is not conducive to sturdy plants; 3-5 per clump seems very suitable. No need to elaborate further.
To make orchids sprout more, in one simple sentence: strengthen light, grow sturdy seedlings, apply some phosphorus and potassium, and apply nitrogen fertilizer in a biased way. Heating in a warm greenhouse lets orchids grow 2-3 generations of plants each year, with obvious benefits, but the drawbacks also emerge: plant vigor weakens year by year, stress resistance deteriorates, and disease and plant collapse increase. With proper natural cultivation, over several years the number of plants produced will likewise not be few. The author'sorchid growingshallow experience, offered for discussion.