Detailed Explanation of Monthly Orchid Cultivation and Management Techniques
OrchidsCultivation:OrchidsMonthlyCultivationManagement Techniques
January
(1) Frost protection is the top priority. This month has two solar terms, Minor Cold (the 5th or 6th) and Major Cold (the 20th to 22nd). In our country, except for the tropical and subtropical regions, the average monthly temperature is below zero. As cold air from the north keeps moving south, this month is the coldest period of the year; in the tropical regions of our country, the extreme minimum temperature on record has been minus one degree. Orchid management should put frost protection first. Once a cold wave strikes, windows should be kept tightly closed morning and evening to ensure the orchid pots do not suffer frost damage. If the temperature in the orchid room falls below zero, heating may be added, but note that the heating temperature must not be too high; around 5 degrees at night and around 10 degrees during the day is suitable. Also note that a coal stove must not be used for heating, to prevent coal gas from damaging the seedlings.
(2) Let the orchids receive full light, and pay attention to ventilation. The sunlight this month is gentle, so the orchids can safely be given full light. On clear days, if the temperature in the orchid room is around 10 degrees, the windows can be opened during the day for ventilation, but the doors and windows still need to be closed promptly at night.
(3) The temperature this month is low, so watering should be done in the morning on clear days, keeping the water temperature as close to the air temperature as possible. Never pour water into the flower buds when watering, to prevent the buds from rotting.
February
(1) Watch the weather and guard against frost damage. This month has two solar terms, Start of Spring (the 4th or 5th) and Rain Water (the 19th or 20th). Although the temperature this month is slightly higher than last month by 1-2°, in our country, except for the tropical and subtropical regions, the average monthly temperature is below zero, cold waves still strike from time to time, and the weather is still very cold. Orchid care is still mainly about frost protection.
(2) Remove the weak and keep the strong; thin the buds appropriately. After a winter's dormancy, the flower buds begin to grow faster. Orchid growers should, according to the strength or weakness of the potted orchids and following the principle of removing the weak and keeping the strong, promptly thin the buds of the newly formed flower buds after Start of Winter and the buds borne on the back pseudobulbs. Generally, for a full pot of strong plants,Cymbidium goeringiikeep 2-3 flower buds, and forCymbidium faberikeeping one flower bud is enough. This allows nutrients to be concentrated, which helps the orchids bloom to their full standard.
(3) Spray foliar fertilizer appropriately. As spring returns to the earth, orchid buds begin to stir, and extremely dilute fertilizer may be applied, but root application of organic or inorganic fertilizer is prohibited; foliar application of inorganic fertilizer or biological bacterial fertilizer should still be the main method, to promote the vitality of new buds and ensure the nutritional needs of new bud growth.
(4) Clean the orchid room; kill insects and sterilize. Dead branches, fallen leaves and scorched leaf tips should be cut off promptly, and a comprehensive insecticidal disinfection should be carried out on theorchid-growingtools and the orchid garden. When spraying chemicals, note three points: first, the solution must not be too concentrated, so as not to harm the orchid buds; second, spray on clear mornings; third, the amount of chemical sprayed must not be too much, so as not to pour into the leaves and rot the heart.
March
(1) Full light is suitable before the scape is drawn up and the flowers open; shade when the flowers are displayed. This month has two solar terms, Awakening of Insects (the 5th or 6th) and Spring Equinox (the 20th or 21st). In our country, except for Heilongjiang Province and the high-cold regions of Tibet, the average temperature is above zero. The weather gradually warms and the sunlight is gentle. All orchids with buds should be placed in a sunny spot to receive full light before blooming. After the flower buds begin to shoot up, they must be properly shaded; otherwise the petals easily turn yellow in color, and the tongue of plain-hearted petals turns white or slightly yellow, which damages the flower's appearance and affects the flower's quality.
(2) Moderate dryness and moisture; water with care. When displaying flowers, the potting soil should be dry and the air humidity should be high. This month Cymbidium goeringii is in full bloom, and the air humidity should be somewhat higher. Air humidity greatly affects the length of the Cymbidium goeringii flower stem; the effect is most pronounced on the lotus-petal Cymbidium goeringii. Although air humidity should be high during the orchid's blooming period, the potting soil moisture should not be too high and should be somewhat on the dry side. For all standard petal-type flowers, just before the buds open their petals and shoot up, the potting soil moisture should be properly controlled, watering less so the potting soil is slightly dry. But for exotic-flower-type orchids, when displaying flowers the potting soil must not be too dry; on the contrary, it should be a bit more moist, so as to fully display the exoticflower'selegance.
(3) Cut the flowers appropriately to avoid excessive nutrient consumption. Orchids consume the most nutrients when blooming; if the flowers are allowed to bloom and fade freely, it harms the orchid's later growth, so the flowers need to be cut at the right time. After Cymbidium goeringii is in full bloom, it should generally be cut after half a month; for the multi-flowered types, it should be cut five or six days after the top flower has fully opened. If it is a rare and precious variety or there are not many plants in the pot, it should be cut immediately after two or three days of blooming.
April
(1) Open windows for ventilation and move orchids out of doors with care. This month has two solar terms, Pure Brightness (the 5th or 6th) and Grain Rain (the 20th or 21st). The weather is warm and frost and snow have basically stopped. Except for extreme cold-wave weather, all potted flowers can be moved out of doors for care. For orchid growing in closed orchid rooms, windows should be opened appropriately to facilitate ventilation.
(2) Sterilize and kill insects; orchids in bloom need shading. This month orchids can receive full light, and generally no shading is needed. This month Cymbidium faberi begins to bloom. During the blooming period it should be shaded; otherwise the flower color is poor and the bloom quality is affected. As the temperature gradually rises,pests and diseasesbegin to breed, so fungicides and insecticides should be used promptly to sterilize and kill insects in the orchid room and on the orchid plants.
(3) Repot and divide to promote growth. Spring is one of the best seasons for repotting and dividing orchids. If potted orchids have filled the pot or the potting soil has not been changed for more than two years, spring should be used to promptly repot or divide them.
(4) Withhold water and fertilize to promote strong buds. For potted orchids that have not produced flower buds, a thin fertilizer may be applied once around Spring Equinox and Pure Brightness; for potted orchids that have finished blooming, fertilizer should be applied only after a rest and recovery period of about ten days after flowering. Whether fertilizing potted orchids that have not bloomed or those that have finished blooming, it is best to choose clear weather, and before fertilizing, water should be withheld once appropriately; fertilizing when the potting soil is on the dry side gives the best effect. This way, on the one hand the orchid roots and potting soil absorb the fertilizer fully, and on the other hand it also stimulates the orchid plants to sprout strong buds, with good results.
May
(1) Use sparse netting for shading. This month has two solar terms, Start of Summer (the 5th or 6th) and Grain Full (the 21st or 22nd). The temperature gradually rises and the sunlight gradually strengthens, so for outdoor orchid growing, sparse netting may be used appropriately for shading.
(2) Fertilize to strengthen buds. This month most of the orchid's daughter buds have broken through the soil. To make the new buds sturdy, the orchids must be top-dressed, preferably with a thin organic fertilizer applied to the roots, best done in the evening, and the next morning a "revival water" must be given. Foliar fertilization may also be used, spraying with one-thousandth urea plus one-thousandth monopotassium phosphate; to prevent fertilizer damage, water should be sprayed the next morning to wash the leaves. Biological bacterial fertilizers may also be sprayed, such as Cugen Sheng, Zhiquan, Lanjun Wang, Xishuo, etc. When growing orchids with granular potting medium, it is best to alternate organic fertilizer, inorganic fertilizer and biological bacterial fertilizer, once a week.
(3) Water with care to prevent bud rot. When the orchid buds break through the soil, open their mouths and unfold their leaves, the orchid buds should be covered before watering, to prevent water from collecting in the bud heart and rotting the buds and causing disease. If water accidentally gets into the orchid buds, use a toothpick wrapped in toilet paper to absorb the water dry, to eliminate future trouble.
(4) Pay attention to preventing pests and diseases. This month, due to damp shade and gradually rising temperatures, insects and fungi breed, making insecticidal and sterilization work very important. Spray a fungicide once every ten days, alternating thiophanate-methyl, carbendazim, copper hydroxide and others, to improve efficacy. Spray an insecticide once every half month, mainly omethoate and dicofol, to kill scale insects and red spider mites, with the best effect.
June
(1) This month has two solar terms, Grain in Ear (the 6th or 7th) and Summer Solstice (the 21st or 22nd). This month has the longest daytime of the year, with high temperatures, strong light and muggy weather. Shading and ventilation work must be done well, to avoid exposure to the scorching sun, which burns the orchid leaves.
(2) This month the Jiangnan region is in the plum rain period, with heavy rainfall, and other places also gradually get more rain. Where air pollution is not serious, orchids may be left to be rained on in light or moderate rain, but in heavy rain or torrential rain it is best not to let them be rained on, to avoid water accumulation causing root rot and bud rot. During the plum rain period the air humidity is high, so watering should be less.
(3) This month is the orchid's budding and leaf-unfolding period, requiring a relatively high moist environment. If the potting soil is too dry and the air humidity too low, it easily causes buds and the shrinkage of the orchid root growth points, which is very unfavorable to orchid growth. Orchid bud-stage management should emphasize the word "moist", striving to create a relatively moist environment for the orchid-growing site and the potting soil. After the plum rain, the climate is dry; through sprinkling water in the orchid garden, spraying water on the leaves, humidifying with water trays, humidifying with a humidifier and various other means, strive to create a daytime relative air humidity of no less than 40%. On the premise of ensuring the potting soil is breathable and drains well, watering may be done somewhat more frequently, so that the orchid potting soil stays relatively moist, ensuring the orchids sprout, emerge from the soil, unfold their leaves and grow sturdily.
July
(1) Emphasize heat prevention, shading and cooling. This month has two solar terms, Minor Heat (the 7th or 8th) and Major Heat (the 23rd or 24th). The average monthly temperature is around 30°, making it the hottest month of the year, with unbearable heat. Due to the intense heat, shading, ventilation and cooling work must be strengthened. In muggy weather, exhaust fans, miniature electric fans and the like may be used to blow a gentle breeze, promoting air circulation. At the same time, frequently sprinkle water on the ground to lower the temperature, preventing the intense heat from harming the orchids.
(2) Water with care to prevent bud rot. This month the temperature is high. When watering, generally do not use the soaking-pot method or the sprinkling method; spray and mist as little as possible, to avoid pouring water into the leaf heart and causing rot. In the high-temperature season the potting soil must not be wet for a long time, to prevent root rot, stem rot,soft rotand bud rot. Water management is the focus of this month's work.
(3) Fertilize slowly. This month is hot, and the orchids enter dormancy. Root application of organic or inorganic fertilizer is prohibited. Foliar fertilizer is better for fertilization; one-thousandth urea plus one-thousandth monopotassium phosphate or biological bacterial fertilizer may be used alternately, to supplement nutrients, promote vigorous growth, and lay the foundation for next year's budding and flowering. Generally speaking, spray in the evening and wash the leaves the next morning, to prevent fertilizer from accumulating on the leaf surface and causing seedling damage through high-temperature sun exposure.
(4) Prevent and control pests and diseases promptly. This month is the most prone to various pests and diseases, so insecticidal and sterilization work cannot be relaxed. When preventing and controlling pests and diseases, spray alternately to prevent the orchid plants from developing resistance and affecting the results. Spray in the cool evening; the solution must not be too concentrated, to prevent chemical damage.
(5) Reinforce the orchid room to prevent torrential rain and typhoons. This month torrential rain, typhoons and other extreme weather occur frequently in various places, so preventive work must be done well, adopting reinforcement and rain-shelter measures, to prevent violent wind and rain from overturning the pots and breaking the orchid leaves.
August
(1) Prevent heat and cool down. This month has two solar terms, Start of Autumn (the 7th or 8th) and End of Heat (the 23rd or 24th). The average monthly temperature is similar to last month, and the weather is intensely hot, making it the second high-temperature month of the year. Pay attention to preventing heat and cooling down, and ensure ventilation.
(2) Water promptly to avoid "water-chestnut-shell dryness". In the golden autumn season, the sky is high and clouds are light, the sunlight is bright, and water evaporation is great. The potting soil easily dries upward from the bottom of the pot, forming "water-chestnut-shell dryness", which affects the development of flower buds and harms the orchid roots. Measures such as humidifying with water troughs, sprinkling water on the ground, humidifying with a humidifier and others may be adopted, striving to create a relative air humidity of no less than 40%. To avoid "water-chestnut-shell dryness", orchid growers must frequently observe the dry and wet condition of the potting soil. If the potting soil is found to be on the dry side, it should be watered thoroughly in good time, so as to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged; never let the potting soil become too dry.
(3) Proceed from reality in everything, and let the orchids receive more light. After the middle of this month, the degree of shading should be reduced as much as possible according to the orchid-growing environment. Except that orchids grown in courtyards and on rooftop platforms need appropriate shading, other orchid-growing sites can boldly let the orchids receive full light, especially for full pots of vigorously growing strong plants. At night, the sliding windows of the orchid room should be opened as much as possible, to allow full ventilation and air exchange, maximizing the day-night temperature difference.
(4) Fertilize to promote strength and buds. From the middle and late part of this month, organic fertilizer should be applied to the roots of vigorously growing strong Cymbidium plants, and foliar fertilization may also be used; the two may be alternated. Fertilization should appropriately increase the phosphorus and potassium components, to favor the production of flower buds, and at the same time ensure the growth of autumn buds and the nurturing of sturdy early-spring buds. Fertilization is best done thin and on clear evenings; the next morning a "revival water" should be given, to prevent fertilizer damage.
(5) Prevent extreme weather. This month typhoons occasionally strike the Jiangnan coast, and other regions also often have stormy weather. The orchid room should be reinforced, and typhoon and storm prevention work done well.
(6) Do not relax in preventing and controlling pests and diseases. This month pests and diseases are very rampant, and it is a high-incidence month for soft rot, stem rot and other pests. Good work must be done in controlling insects and preventing disease. Sterilization and insect killing should be done on clear evenings as the sun is about to set; the orchid leaves should be sprayed, and the entire orchid garden should also be sprayed.
September
(1) Remove shading and give full light. This month has two solar terms, White Dew (the 8th or 9th) and Autumn Equinox (the 23rd or 24th). The average monthly temperature is around 25°, the summer heat gradually fades, and the sunlight gradually becomes gentle. According to the conditions of the orchid room, the orchids may be given as much sun as possible, to strengthen their ability to resist pests and diseases and withstand the cold through the winter. From the late part of the month, shading work can basically be ended.
(2) Increase humidity and avoid dryness. The autumn climate is dry, so the ancient teaching "do not let autumn dry" should be followed; pay attention to increasing air humidity and avoid the occurrence of "water-chestnut-shell dryness". Measures such as humidifying with water troughs, sprinkling water on the ground, humidifying with a humidifier and others may be adopted, striving to create a relative air humidity of no less than 40%. Frequently observe the dry and wet condition of the potting soil; if the potting soil is found to be on the dry side, it should be watered thoroughly in good time, so as to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged; never let the potting soil become too dry.
(3) Kill insects and sterilize. This month scale insects, red spider mites, aphids, slugs and snails are very rampant, and soft rot and black spot disease occur frequently. Insect killing and sterilization must be done promptly, and the drug varieties must be changed regularly. A comprehensive disinfection of the orchid site may be carried out 1-2 times. The application time is still best in the evening, which helps enhance the insect-killing and sterilization effect.
(4) Repot and divide. After the Autumn Equinox solar term, the autumn sky is high and the air is crisp, making it a great time for repotting, changing medium and dividing for propagation. All orchids that need repotting or division can be promptly worked on during this period according to the essentials of repotting and division.
(5) Distinguish buds and identify orchids. This month the flower buds begin to show through the soil. Pay attention to observing and identifying the color, veins and appearance of various flower buds, to enhance the ability to identify different varieties. If the aim is propagation, to produce more new buds and strong buds next year, the flower buds may be removed.
(6) Fertilize according to the seedlings. This month is the last period for fertilizing orchids. For vigorously growing large and strong plants, appropriate fertilizer should be applied, to guarantee large buds and large plants next year; but for diseased and weak seedlings, generally do not fertilize, and clean cultivation is better. Fertilization may be done by alternating root fertilization and foliar fertilization, and by alternating organic fertilizer, inorganic fertilizer and biological bacterial fertilizer.
October
(1) Let the orchids bathe in the sunlight. This month has two solar terms, Cold Dew (the 8th or 9th) and Frost's Descent (the 23rd or 24th). The autumn sky is high and the air is crisp, the sunlight is gentle, and the shading work is declared over.Orchid plantscan receive the sun all day, promotingorchid plants'growth and full flower buds, strengthening the ability to resist disease and withstand cold, which is favorable for the orchid plants to pass the winter.
(2) Increase the humidity of the orchid room. This month the rainfall is low and the air humidity is on the low side, so the potting medium dries out very easily. Pay attention to increasing the air humidity of the orchid room, to prevent the orchid leaves from drying at the tips and scorching. When autumn rain comes, the orchids may be left to be rained on, but continuous overcast rain must still be sheltered; never let the orchid plants be rained on for a long time, to prevent waterlogging and root rot, otherwise black spot disease easily occurs.
(3) Apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. The temperature in October is suitable, making it another golden season for orchid plant growth. Apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in good time, to meet the various nutrients needed for orchid growth, so as to grow into large and strong plants before dormancy, laying a solid foundation for early budding and large buds next year, and helping to survive the winter by strengthening the ability to withstand cold. But by the end of the month, in principle, the year's fertilization work needs to be ended.
(4) Prevent frost. In the late part of this month, early frost may come to Jiangnan, and in the northern temperate and high-cold regions the temperature sometimes falls below zero. Pay attention to watching the weather forecast and do a good job of frost and freeze prevention.
(5) Repot and divide at the right time. This month most orchid plants have matured, making it the best time of the year for exchanging and introducing varieties and for repotting, dividing and changing medium. For those that truly need repotting, this work is best completed before the end of this month. If the new plants have not fully matured, it is best to postpone repotting and division, to favor the continued growth of the new plants; it is not too late to do it next spring.
November
(1) Do a good job of frost protection. This month has two solar terms, Start of Winter (the 7th or 8th) and Minor Snow (the 22nd or 23rd), and winter begins to set in. This month early frost comes to Jiangnan one after another, so frost prevention work must be done well. In the north, powerful cold waves strike from time to time, bringing low-temperature frost. From the end of this month the severe winter begins, so winter cold-proof preparations must be made well. Pay attention to watching the weather forecast and take protective measures promptly, to avoid frost damage.
(2) Clean the orchid room, disinfect and sterilize, and proactively prevent orchid pests and diseases. In winter the temperature drops noticeably, the orchid's vegetative growth is declared over, and it shifts to the reproductive growth stage. After Start of Winter, before the temperature drops to zero, choose clear weather to carry out a thorough general cleaning of the orchid room, removing all kinds of dirt and debris in the orchid room, ensuring no sanitary blind spots are left, and carry out a comprehensive sterilization and disinfection of the orchid room and the orchid plants, to minimize or completely eliminate the occurrence of various pests and diseases. This will certainly achieve twice the result with half the effort.
(3) Give full light and temper the orchid plants, accumulating energy for the orchids to bloom and bud next year. Winter is the season of reproductive growth for Cymbidium orchids. The flower buds grow slowly and new buds are also being nurtured, so full light is especially important. The winter sunlight is gentle. Whethergrowing orchids on a balcony, growing orchids in a courtyard or growing orchids in a dedicated orchid room, the shading facilities should be removed promptly, and the orchids should be boldly and confidently allowed to bathe fully in the sunlight, to accumulate the energy needed for the orchids to bloom and bud next year. If the orchid-growing site has insufficient winter sunlight, a biological growth regulation lamp should also be used to supplement light for the orchids; otherwise it directly affects the orchid's blooming and budding.
(4) This month repotting and introducing plants can still be done. Those who have not yet completed repotting need to complete it promptly in the early and middle parts of the month. This is favorable for the orchid plants to recover, and helps them bud early and produce large buds next year.
December
(1) Frost protection should be put first. This month has two solar terms, Major Snow (the 7th or 8th) and Winter Solstice (the 22nd or 23rd). In our country, except for the tropical and subtropical regions, the average monthly temperature is below zero, so frost protection is the focus of orchid growing this month. When the weather is cold, the windows should be closed. The nighttime temperature is best kept around 5°, and must not be lower than 0°; the daytime temperature is best kept around 10°. If the temperature in the orchid room falls below zero, heating measures should be taken. It is best to use a water radiator for heating; an electric heater or air conditioner for heating is also acceptable, but by no means may a coal stove be used to heat the orchid room, to prevent the orchid seedlings from being poisoned.
(2) Full light and attention to ventilation. This month the orchids can safely be given full light, but attention must be paid to ventilation in the orchid room. Although the morning and evening temperatures are not high when growing orchids in winter, on clear days the temperature in a closed orchid room can sometimes reach around 20 degrees. If ventilation is poor, the orchids suffer from stuffy heat, and spots easily form on the leaf surface. Once infected, they often recur the next year, affecting the orchids' growth. Therefore, in winter on clear days, if the temperature exceeds 10 degrees, windows must be opened appropriately for ventilation, especially during the period from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., to avoid the harm of stuffy heat to the orchids.
(3) Give full vernalization. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi,Cymbidium tortisepalumand Chun Jian that already have flower buds, in winter it is best to place them on a north-facing balcony or use temperature control measures to let them fully vernalize for more than 1 month. The temperature generally should not exceed 10 degrees during the day, and the morning and evening temperature should not be lower than zero. Otherwise, if the temperature is too high, it is unfavorable for next year's blooming and for the bloom quality to reach standard.
(4) Water with care to prevent root rot. In winter the temperature is low, water evaporates slowly, and the orchid roots' water-absorbing capacity is relatively weak, so watering should be less. In winter, orchids are best watered at noon when the temperature rises, so that the water temperature is close to the potting soil temperature, and diseases caused by too great a difference between water temperature and potting soil temperature can also be avoided. If using traditional methods to grow orchids, it is best to water along the edge of the pot, so that the soil is slowly moistened, which is more favorable for the orchid roots to absorb water. For those who place bricks under the pot, the part of the orchid pot below the bricks may also be soaked in water at the right time, so that moisture rises, keeping the potting soil slightly damp, with good results.
(5) Fertilization is strictly prohibited. This month the orchids are dormant, and applying any fertilizer to the roots is strictly prohibited. On clear days at noon, foliar fertilizer may be appropriately applied 1-2 times, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which helps improve the orchid plants' cold resistance and makes the orchid plants sturdy.
(6) Summarize experience and improve the level of orchid growing. In light of the orchid plants' growth over the past year, conscientiously summarize successful experience, identify lessons of success and failure, and continuously improve the level of orchid growing.