Detailed Guide to Four-Season Care of Meizhou Orchids

Spring: In the south, air humidity is relatively high, with prolonged overcast and rainy weather, making home orchids highly prone topests and diseases. Therefore, in terms of care, emphasis should be placed on pest elimination and sterilization, cold and rain protection, and division and repotting. After the Spring Festival, flower stalks should be cut off as much as possible to avoid consuming nutrients and affecting the sprouting of new shoots in spring. Every 7 days, spray insecticide (such as thiophanate-methyl, carbendazim, chlorothalonil, trichlorfon, and Dimethoate) three times in a row, alternating the various chemicals separately, to prevent pathogen resistance. Division propagation is best carried out during the period from Awakening of Insects to Spring Equinox. Early spring is still cold, with frequent rain and high humidity. Various orchid plants do not carry out photosynthesis, and their growth is not vigorous; they are in a semi-dormant state, and even if fertilizer is applied, they cannot absorb it, which places a relatively serious burden on the orchid roots and, in severe cases, damages the roots and leaves. If fertilization is desired, after the Spring Equinox, spray 0.2-0.3% monopotassium phosphate or Hyponex No. 1, or vitamin B1, on a sunny afternoon. In late spring, to promote the growth of leaf buds, a small amount of decomposed peanut bran solid fertilizer may be applied along the edge of the pot. In summer, as temperatures gradually rise and air humidity increases, this is the period of vigorous growth for variousorchids. In early summer, when the plum rain season begins, special attention must be paid to sterilization and disease prevention (soft rot, black spot, anthracnose). Every step must be handled well and care must be meticulous so thatorchidspass through summer safely. Shading:Orchidsare semi-shade plants. As sunlight gradually intensifies at the Beginning of Summer and daytime temperatures rise sharply, appropriate shading should be provided, with weak light received in the morning and evening. In the intense heat of late summer, shading should be strengthened even more to prevent heatstroke and lower temperatures. The ground and platforms should be sprinkled with water frequently in the morning, at noon, and in the evening to maintain moisture. Pest elimination and sterilization: This season is the plum rain season, with especially abundant rain. If orchid growing areas and potted orchids are too wet, it easily encouragespests and diseasesto multiply, so prevention and control must be attended to. Therefore, every other week, pesticides should be sprayed around the growing area and on potted orchids to kill diseases and sterilize. Products such as Dubaofan, chlorothalonil, thiophanate-methyl, Dimethoate, and trichlorfon may be used, applied in rotation (according to the proportions on the instructions) once a week. Fertilization: This season is the period of vigorous orchid growth, so more supplemental fertilizer may be applied. During pesticide spraying, add monopotassium phosphate or vitamin B1, B2, or Hyponex No. 2, etc. The general principle is to apply frequently and lightly, with special attention that during the extreme heat period, fertilization must be stopped for all types of orchids. Autumn: In early autumn, the intense heat still increases sharply; as the saying goes, "the heat is in the three fu periods." The care of autumnorchidsshould focus on preventing heatstroke and lowering temperatures, eliminating pests and diseases, adjusting light, repotting and dividing, supplying fertilizer, and guarding against typhoons. Orchids like moisture and fear water accumulation. Daily water supply is indispensable, and the potting medium should ideally remain 80% moist, that is, one should achieve "autumn not dry."Orchid growingThe air humidity around the site is more important than the moisture of the potting medium in the orchid pots, so the area around the orchid shed should be frequently watered in the morning, at noon, and in the evening to increase air humidity. Water supply to orchid pots and pest elimination and sterilization work should be changed to after the residual heat has diminished in the evening. Pest elimination: In early autumn every 7 days, and in late autumn every 15 days, spray pesticides around theorchid growingarea and on potted orchids to sterilize and eliminate pests. For fungicides, pesticides such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, and carbendazim may be used. For insecticides, pesticides such as Dimethoate and trichlorfon may be used. When using, spray according to the proportions in the pesticide instructions. Repotting: If autumn orchids,spring orchids, and summer cymbidiums need division propagation, it is suitable to carry out from White Dew to Cold Dew, because the weather is relatively cool at this time. Dividing the pots is beneficial to orchid growth. Wind protection and fertilization: Every autumn there are often strong typhoons, followed by continuous heavy rain. This is a time when natural disasters strike doubly, often causingorchid growersto suffer losses. At this time, preparations should be made, the orchid shed reinforced, and high-grade potted orchids moved indoors temporarily as soon as possible, then returned to the orchid shed for normal care after the heavy rain. Orchids grown long-term indoors lack sufficient nutrients, especially those using stone, sintered material, bark, and other inorganic materials as potting medium, so fertilizer should be supplied in a timely manner to supplement nutrients. Orchids are mesophytic or slow-growing higher flowering plants, so medium-release and slow-release fertilizers should be used, such as bone meal, peanut cake powder, and light fish meal. After full fermentation, dilute with water and use during the growth period, once every 15 days. One hour after application, sprinkle with clear water once to avoid damaging orchid roots. Chemical fertilizers may also be sprayed on the leaves, once every 15 days, in the evening. In winter, with severe cold, temperatures generally drop in all regions, especially on severe cold and frosty or snowy days in late winter. All types of flowering orchids stop growing and are in a dormant state. The following aspects of care should be handled well to let them pass winter safely. Cold protection, increased light, and warming: In early winter, the climate in various southern regions is still warm, and the growth of various autumn orchids andCymbidium sinenseis nearing its end, so cold protection measures need not be considered. Although light weakens somewhat in early winter, the sunlight at noon is still strong, so 40% of full-day sunlight is needed. At night, open the shade net and let the orchid plants enjoy natural dew. From Winter Solstice to Great Cold, all types of orchids need no shading at all during the day; orchid pots may receive more weak light to increase light and warmth, which benefits flower bud growth and enlarges the pseudobulbs. If a cold wave moves south, it is best to cover the orchid shed with plastic film at night to prevent severe frost from invading and damaging the orchid plants. Water supply and sterilization: In winter, most types of orchids enter a dormant state, so water supply should not be too wet. The potting medium should remain only 30% moist, enough for their life needs. Too much moisture in the potting soil will cause root rot and leaf decay, so close attention must be paid. If watering is needed, it is best done at noon on a sunny day when temperatures rise; it is most taboo to do it at night when temperatures are relatively low. Early winter in the south is warm, and in semi-natural growing sites, potted orchids may also developpests and diseases. In addition to continuous cleaning and hygiene, disease and pest elimination should also be carried out twice a month, using the drugs mentioned above, applied at noon on sunny days. All types of orchids should not be fertilized during the dormant period. Meizhou Orchid Enthusiasts Association January 2003