Insights from the Natural Growing Environment of Wild Cymbidium faberi

1. GrowingCymbidium faberiwell hinges on: ample light, high humidity with large temperature swings, and good ventilation. (Because in modernorchid growing, potting media, water and fertilizer are no longer the main issues.) How to combine these three key elements organically and sensibly is where success lies.Cymbidium faberiAlthough it requires an environment with ample light, strong direct sunlight is unsuitable in summer. With ample light and suitable humidity, the plant grows robustly, with upright, spirited and glossy leaves; with insufficient light, the plant becomes weak, with thin, elongated, drooping and lusterless leaves, and fewer flowers. Generally, in summer, shading with one layer of 50% shade net is better. Keep humidity at around 70-85%, open windows at night for natural ventilation to meet the temperature difference requirement, and in summer adopt various methods to cool down, such as air conditioning, fans, water curtains, sprinkling water on walls and floors, and so on. Keep the temperature below 31°C, so thatCymbidium faberileaves do not develop spots or scorched tips, remaining emerald green and elegant, and compared withCymbidium goeringiithey appear more grand and more graceful. 2. The issue of shoot production rate: if the mother plant is a strong seedling and you want more shoots, shallow planting is needed, because when planted deeper and kept in a moist state for a long time,orchid plants' reserve buds are killed by excessive moisture and dampness, and even with many shoots it is hard to grow new buds. Here I want to share with everyone the experience I have gained over many years: to make Cymbidium faberi produce more shoots, besides allowing full light from November to March, it is best to part the potting medium so that the pseudobulbs are slightly exposed above the pot surface, ensuring ample light to activate this driving force. At the same time, another key point is to withhold water in March, letting the potting soil dry out thoroughly several times, which can force new shoots; this is rarely mentioned in orchid books. You may all know the fact that withholding water in July can force flower buds; in fact, the principle is the same. For several years, my Cymbidium faberi shoot production rate has been above 100%, and this year set a new record of four pseudobulbs from two old plants producing seven new shoots. In addition,orchidsthat are not very healthy or are still in the conservation stage should not be planted deep, otherwise the core is prone to rot. If there are many shoots but they need rejuvenating, Cymbidium faberi can be planted slightly deeper; deep planting in a large pot has a good effect, readily producing strong shoots and helpingorchidsrejuvenate, but the shoot production rate will be lower than with shallow planting in a large pot. Of course, the premise of deep planting in a large pot is that theorchid growermust be able to carry out the correct watering and water-withholding care actions suited to deep planting in a large pot, otherwise unfavorable situations will also arise. Excerpted from "OrchidTreasure" Author: Ge Xinxing, Taizhou, Zhejiang