A detailed guide to watering methods throughout the four seasons, mastering the key watering points for different seasons

　　Orchidslove growing in a cool and moist environment. The so-called moist does not mean that a large amount of water must be poured into the soil, but rather that they should be given the necessary humidity suitable for their growth.Orchidleaves are relatively thick, covered with a cuticle, and also have plump pseudobulbs and fleshy roots. Besides being able to store a certain amount of nutrients, they can also accumulate a certain amount of water, so that during brief dry periods they can regulate themselves and are not likely to quickly dry out and die. But if the soil is too dry, the pseudobulbs shrivel or other tissues lose water, affecting metabolism. If there is too much water, water accumulates in the soil, aeration is poor, root ventilation is blocked, and water absorption is affected, easily causing root rot. After the "Beginning of Spring," the climate gradually warms up,orchidsenter a normal growth stage, and the flower buds gradually elongate. At this time the soil should be kept moist. At sunny and mild noon, move the potted orchids outdoors into the sunlight in batches, wash away accumulated dust on the leaf surface so as to avoid blocking the stomata, and also take the opportunity to keep the mud layer on the pot surface moist (especially for the high pot-surface style, where the mud layer rises above the pot rim and dries easily). If the mud layer on the pot surface is found to be too pale, it must be watered several times until water leaks out from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. After the "Awakening of Insects," flowerlessGoering cymbidiumandFaber cymbidiumhave just been moved from indoors to open-aircultivation, exposed to wind and sun, so the potting soil dries easily, especially as the new root tips and bud points of the root system begin to stir, so daily watering should be frequent, but the amount of water should not be too much. After the "Beginning of Summer,"Goering cymbidiumandFaber cymbidiumflowering periods have passed. For all potted orchids after flowering, at this time the soil moisture should be slightly drier than that of ordinary potted orchids, because after flowering most have a brief semi-dormant period, grow slowly, and evaporate less water from the leaves. From June onward, the weather gradually becomes hot, and the daughter plants (that is, young shoots) grow faster and begin to gradually break through the soil. At this time, more attention should be paid to soil moisture; frequently spray the leaves with clean water and also wet the orchid bench to create a certain moist microclimate, which is beneficial for the daughter plants to elongate and unfold their leaves. But when entering the yellow plum rainy season, there are often continuous moldy rains, causing excessively high humidity. At this time, on the contrary, watering should be controlled or the plants should even be moved to a place sheltered from the rain; otherwise, black spots and patches (commonly known as partridge spots) often appear on the leaf surface. This kind of diseased condition is most likely to damage the leaves of fat-ringed plants and plain-heart-petal-type plants amongGoering cymbidium. After entering the dog days, it turns into a period of high temperature and intense heat. In addition to strengthening shading, the soil must also be carefully kept at a certain humidity at all times. If it is found that the humidity inside the shade frame is insufficient, the pot surface dries easily, and the Selaginella uncinata grows old and droops soft, then water must be sprinkled above and below the orchid bench and on the walkways or nearby walls to increase moisture and reduce the water consumption within theorchid grassbody. After White Dew, the temperature gradually turns cool like autumn, and with the moisture of night dew, the new grass has stopped growing vigorously, and the orchid buds break through the soil and grow slowly. At this time the amount of irrigation can be reduced, but if the potting mud is found to be dry, it must be watered to the point of moisture. After Mid-Autumn, the temperature also often tends to be on the high side, and the air is too dry. If watering is insufficient, fine cracks often appear in the mud layer in the pot or it separates from the pot wall, and so on. This phenomenon is commonly called "water caltrop dryness" in the Jiangnan region. Orchid pots are most easily damaged, affecting growth; flower buds wither, or the flowers bloom stiffly the following year and the flower stalks shorten. Therefore, at this time water in the morning and evening. During late autumn, the new grass in the potted orchids has changed from new green to old deep green, and the flower buds and outer sheaths are all visible. If there is prolonged rain and much moisture, black spots are most likely to appear on the new leaves, and the flower buds often have a "rotten garment" (that is, the bract shell rotting) phenomenon. At this time, measures should be taken to shelter from the rain, or reduce the amount of irrigation and expose them to more sunlight. When the climate gradually turns cold, water once every few days and let them receive full-day sunlight. The degree of watering throughout the year should also be adapted to local conditions according to the actual temperature level of the season in each place, the size of the pot, the number of plants, and the characteristics of the variety. As for watering time, generally speaking, in spring and autumn it is suitable to do it in the morning; during the hot midsummer period, it is suitable before sunrise and at sunset; in early winter and early spring, it can be done after the sun is overhead and the temperature is slightly warmer. During the period of being brought indoors for the winter, watering must be done around noon on clear days. When watering, generally one should wait until the pot surface must be dry (the soil turning pale is enough). For example: on the first day apply pesticide first, then on the second day water again. Watering must be divided as follows: in spring water in the morning and evening, in summer also in the morning and evening, in autumn also in the morning and evening, and in winter at noon. Watering must be thorough. Spray the leaf surface thoroughly, and it can be soaked thoroughly using a basin and bucket; generally soaking for two or three minutes is enough. Watering tools: a spray gun is used for watering orchids. Wateringorchidsis very particular: fine, even, and thorough. In this way orchids do not rot at the roots, do not draw at the heart, send out many shoots, and produce fewer pests. The spray gun nozzle of this company uses Japanese technology and is made by laser perforation. Here, it is specially recommended to the broad community of orchid friends. Besides watering with a spray gun, there is also the soaking-pot method, which is to immerse the orchid pot in water and let the water slowly seep through the holes at the bottom of the pot into the mud layer. Although this method can make the potting mud absorb enough water, if it is a newly repotted orchid, it should not be immersed too deep; it is enough to reach only the waist of the pot. If it is too deep and reaches the pot surface, then due to water pressure, the newly added soil in the pot is easily made to float upward by the seeping water, causing the mud layer to loosen and the root system to be unable to fit well with the soil. When it is taken out in a saturated state, although excess water can gradually drain away, the mud clump has already been loosened. At this time, the surface soil must be gently pressed with the fingers to make it more compact. If it is an old pot opening, using the soaking-pot method to supplement moisture is still one of the ideal methods. Our country has a folk saying: "Dry orchids, wet chrysanthemums." This saying should be understood relatively and its essence recognized. It only refers to the different degrees of water requirements of the two plants. Although orchids are said to prefer dryness, in reality they love growing in a moist environment that is dry but not parched. The orchid-growing predecessors of our country said: "Spring favors moisture, summer and autumn favor slight dampness, winter must be moist with some dryness," which fully explains the principle that orchids have different requirements for dryness and humidity in different periods.