The correct methods and precautions for fertilizing orchids

Do not fertilize until the new roots have grown in fully. After being moved around several times, the orchid seedlings are in a conservative, suppressed state. Their resistance is very weak, the wounds from broken roots have not yet healed, and they are highly prone to disease infection.During cultivation, besides making sure to use only weakly acidic humus soil or ordinary plain soil, never apply base fertilizer. Because of the change in environment, after the orchid seedlings are potted, their functions in the moist substrate gradually recover, but this is a fairly long "pot-adjustment period," during which the orchid roots, because their functions have not fully recovered, basically do not absorb fertilizer from the soil and rely entirely on the nutrients stored in the pseudobulbs to supply the needs of the roots, leaves and buds. Only after the orchid fungi gradually appear and the hyphae spread densely, forming conditions suitable fororchidsto grow vigorously and have more or less filled the pot, do the orchid seedlings fully return to normal and their resistance increase, at which point a light, thin fertilizer may be applied. This process takes about 1-2 years. Although no fertilizer is applied during this period, the orchid seedlings can still grow and develop normally and slowly, because the nutrients produced by the orchid fungi can basically meet the needs of the orchid seedlings at this stage.

Do not fertilize if the orchid plants are not robust. During the "fertilizer-pot period," if the orchid plants do not develop normally, the new buds cannot emerge, the orchid leaves are grayish green, dull and lusterless, drooping, with scorched tips, it means the old roots are continuing to rot and the new roots have not grown out. At this time, by no means should fertilizer be applied; only regular foliar spraying can be used to supplement nutrition. If they still cannot return to normal, the seedlings must be lifted out, disinfected, and repotted with fresh soil.

Do not fertilize if the new buds have not grown large. When the potted orchid seedlings send out leaf buds, it shows that the orchid fungi have initially formed, the new roots are gradually growing out, and nutrient absorption has begun, but at this time the new roots are still very short and few, and their function is very weak. In order not to affect their development, no fertilizer of any kind should be applied. Only after the new buds have grown to 15 cm tall may a little fertilizer be applied.

Do not fertilize if the flower buds are not plump. By early autumn, the new roots become stronger and stronger and begin to send out flower buds. If the flower buds produced are not plump or even deformed, it means the function of the roots is still not vigorous and can barely satisfy reproductive growth, but cannot satisfy vegetative growth. Such orchids, lacking in inner strength, also cannot be fertilized; nutrition still needs to be supplemented through foliar spraying.

Grasp the seasonal timing: the "five no-fertilizing" rules

Do not fertilize in early spring: although the spring temperature is very low, the orchid seedlings have just gradually revived from dormancy and their activity is very weak. If fertilizer is applied at this time, because it cannot be fully absorbed by the orchids, it will remain around the roots and cause fertilizer damage.

Do not fertilize in summer: when the temperature generally reaches around 35°C, the orchid seedlings are in a semi-dormant state, vegetative growth slows, and root activity weakens. Applying fertilizer at this time is likewise difficult for the orchid roots to absorb and easily causes fertilizer damage.

Do not fertilize in winter: the winter temperature is very low, orchids enter dormancy, flower buds enter the vernalization period, and vegetative growth stops, so no fertilizer can be applied.

Do not fertilize in bad weather: do not fertilize when it is raining or about to rain. First, the fertilizer applied is easily washed away by rainwater and lost; second, because of the change in weather, the activity of the orchid roots is relatively weakened.

Do not fertilize at noon: it is best to fertilize in the morning or evening on a clear day. The temperature at noon is relatively high, and fertilizing then easily harms the orchid seedlings.

What fertilizer to apply

Decomposed farmyard manure: farmyard manure is a very good organic fertilizer, but it must be piled up and decomposed for more than one year before it can be applied. This kind of fertilizer liquid can be diluted with water 10-20 times and watered on, applied as much as possible along the edge of the pot, not touching the roots and not clinging to the orchid leaves.

Chemical fertilizer: when applying chemical fertilizer, attention must be paid to the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and the concentration must be strictly controlled. For variegated-leaf seedlings, chlorophyll synthesis must be controlled, so nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied, nor should fertilizers containing manganese or magnesium (such as calcium-magnesium phosphate fertilizer, etc.), because the elements manganese and magnesium can accelerate chlorophyll synthesis. For variegated-flower orchids, if large-petaled flowers are being cultivated, nitrogen fertilizer may be appropriately increased.

How to fertilize

Apply frequently and thinly, eat small meals more often: orchids do not need much fertilizer during their growth and development period. For vigorous, robust orchid plants, a dilute liquid fertilizer may be applied once every 10-15 days.

Give priority to foliar spraying: foliar spraying can both supplement the orchid plants' nutrition through absorption by the orchid leaves and avoid fertilizer coming into contact with the roots and causing fertilizer damage, making it the best fertilizing method for orchids. As long as during the growth and development period foliar spraying is carried out once about every 10 days, orchids can be grown perfectly well without any need to fertilize in the pot. A 1:1000 solution of monopotassium phosphate and a 1:1000 boron fertilizer can be used, and aloe liquid can also be used. This is because aloe contains large amounts of nutrients such as polysaccharides and amino acids, as well as more than twenty kinds of minerals, which can meet the nutrients orchids need; moreover, aloe contains aloe-emodin, which can kill almost all germs and viruses, so after application there is no need to apply pesticides for disease prevention.

Give priority to natural organic matter. Natural organic fertilizer has relatively comprehensive nutrient elements, so no other fertilizer needs to be applied, and it is mild in nature with no side effects on plants, whereas chemical fertilizer easily makes the substrate compact, and most chemical fertilizers are acidic; long-term application will make the substrate overly acidic and cause disease.