The "Seven Care Steps" and "Four Defenses" of Spring Orchid Care

   SpringorchidsThe main care measures for orchids in spring can be summed up as the "Seven Care Steps" and the "Four Defenses." The Seven Care Steps arewatering, fertilizing, light, insulation, repotting, bud protection, and moving outdoorsand other aspects of care. The Four Defenses are precautions againstfertilizer burn, moisture damage,pests and diseases, and late spring coldand other aspects. Do this care work of the Seven Care Steps and Four Defenses well to ensure the orchids grow strong and healthy    

I. Wateringorchidsin spring. Wateringorchidsin spring is very important and must be done according to changes in climate, the habits of different orchids, and their growth stages. In early spring the temperature is still very low, some varieties are still in their dormant period, water evaporates slowly, and the water requirement is very small, so water only in moderate amounts when the growing medium is dry. ForCymbidium goeringiiabout to bloom, and forCymbidium faberithat have already formed buds, watering should be a bit more frequent; water less during the flowering period to prolong it, and after the flowers fade, stop watering for several days before watering again. But keep the substrate moist only to the proper degree. After that, when the spring wind begins to blow and the weather turns warm, it is exactly the time when new buds swell and emerge from the soil. At this time, because the water in the potting soil evaporates quickly, water should be given promptly. The frequency and amount of watering should increase accordingly, but the potting soil should not be too wet; keeping air humidity between 40% and 50% is sufficient, so as to avoid root and bud rot. Fororchidsplanted in granular medium, they can be kept a little on the moist side. When the temperature rises above 20 degrees or the weather is dry, water can be sprinkled over the orchid plants or sprayed to maintain humidity. Fororchidsin bloom, it is best not to spray water, and the potting soil should also be kept on the drier side to prevent the orchid petals from stretching. This is also the way taught by our predecessors: "Spring fears drenching," "Spring requires moist air"

 When the weather turns warm and the orchids are moved out of the room, they should be given one thorough watering to clear away stale air and waste from within the plants and the pots, maintain moisture, and help the orchids quickly recover their vitality. Likewise, spring rain is as precious as oil; giving the orchids a proper rain shower can make orchid new buds swell and emerge from the soil like bamboo shoots after rain. During the budding period, water more; after budding, water less; when flower buds appear, water more; during the flowering period, water less to prolong it; after the flowers fade, stop watering for several days, let them rest, and then water again.     

In short, spring is the golden time for orchids to sprout and grow. The watering management of orchids in spring should grasp the character of "thoroughness" and highlight the character of "moisture," so that the orchids quickly recover their vitality, the new buds grow strong and healthy, and the flowers bloom like a scene.    

II. Fertilizing orchids in spring. Spring is the season when orchids sprout and grow, and supplemental fertilizer is needed for better seedling emergence and seedling growth. Fertilizing orchids in spring should grasp three aspects:    

First, pay attention to comprehensiveness. In the early stage, apply a diluted nitrogen fertilizer once or twice; in the later stage, apply diluted "phosphorus and potassium" fertilizer several times. Nitrogen fertilizer has a bud-promoting effect on orchids, and after budding, "phosphorus and potassium" fertilizer has a root-promoting effect!  It also provides nutritional supplementation for orchids after flowering, and can likewise prompt early flower bud differentiation inFour Seasonsorchidsand others that bloom in summer.    

Second, pay attention to the character "diluted." Adhere to the principle of "thin fertilizer, frequent application." Because the period of sprouting and leaf unfolding is also when new roots are stirring and extending, applying concentrated fertilizer can easily damage buds and roots; in mild cases it affects normal plant growth, and in severe cases it causes plant death    

Third, pay attention to temperature. In early spring when the temperature is below 15°C, it is generally not suitable to fertilize. When the temperature rises to 15-20 °C, fertilizer can be applied across the board, mainly nitrogen fertilizer, with phosphorus and potassium used together, generally once every half month. A 0.1%-0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can also be used for foliar feeding to promote roots and buds and cultivate strong plants.    

III. Light for orchids in spring. In spring the orchid seedlings have already entered the sprouting and growing period. Good light can enable the seedlings to effectively store energy, nourish the pseudobulbs, and strengthen new buds. It is very necessary. Whether the orchid plants are cultivated indoors or outdoors, the pots should be moved to a sunny place as much as possible. On clear, warm days, the pots can also be moved outdoors to a wind-sheltered, sunny spot to receive sunlight, which both enables photosynthesis and raises the temperature for the plants. But the time must be kept to after 10 a.m. and before 4 p.m. Take special care not to leave the orchid pots outdoors overnight, where they may suffer frost and cold wind. Variegated-leaf orchids can only receive short periods of light to prevent degeneration of the leaf variegation. In spring, orchids generally do not need shading (no shading is needed when the temperature is below 28°C) unless late spring is too hot; when the temperature reaches about 30°C, appropriate shading is needed at noon to prevent high temperatures from scorching the seedlings.    

IV. Insulation for orchids in spring. According to the predecessors' saying "bundle up in spring, freeze in autumn" and the changeable characteristics of spring weather, orchids must also be properly kept warm to ensure their survival and growth. "Bundling up in spring" lets the orchids first adapt to the coming summer heat, and can also enable them to enter the vegetative growth period early and sprout new buds early, thereby increasing the seedling survival rate for that year. The optimal temperature for orchid vegetative growth is within the range of 15°C——25°C. In spring, attention should also be paid to widening the day-night temperature difference; low nighttime temperatures reduce nutrient consumption in the orchids, which helps the nutrients produced during the day to be stored away, promoting more shoots and better seedlings.

V.Repotting orchids in spring. The traditional repotting season is generally at the spring equinox or autumn equinox; in the north it should be after the spring equinox or before the autumn equinox. In the first half of the year, the best time is from the spring equinox to Grain Rain, when the flowering period has ended and the leaf buds have not yet stirred, so frost damage is unlikely; this is the best time for dividing and repotting orchids. Grasping the suitable timing for repotting and planting orchids is an important part of repotting well and growing orchids well    

Repotting must be based on the condition of the orchids, with purpose and targeted action. Repot those that should be repotted, and as far as possible do not repot those that should not be. This can reduce the adverse factors brought by repotting and help the orchids regain vigor and grow quickly.    

Repotting must be done scientifically. Repotting seems very simple, but it also has its scientific aspects. Only by following the orchids' objective habits and requirements can you repot well and grow the plants well; if you do not follow their habits and requirements and operate arbitrarily, you will not repot well and the orchids will instead suffer harm. Therefore, great effort must be put into repotting and planting, adopting the guiding idea of "seven parts planting, three parts management," and repotting and planting carefully. During operation, pay attention to the following matters:    

1. Repotting has three suitabilities: ① suitable moisture: moist pots, moist soil;  ② suitable looseness: loosen the soil for permeability, loosen the roots for airflow, remove dead leaves, divide crowded seedlings; this is the key to cultivating good orchids. ③ suitable shade: pot them on cloudy days, keep them in shade for half a month before placing them on the shelves, to ease the hardship of their unsettled spirit.    

2. Repotting must be disinfected: tools, potting soil, orchid plants, and the environment must be strictly sterilized and disinfected. This is the key point of repotting work。    

3. After repotting new plants and weak plants, care should note: clean cultivation, dry cultivation, shade cultivation, companion planting, and cultivation in weak wind.    

4. Other matters to note:    

① The soil used for repotting is best kept as a moist growing medium when potting. ② Do not apply root fertilizer after repotting. ③ Treatment of broken roots. Break the root but not the core (central column); rot the root but not the core; simply peel off the rotted part. After peeling off the rotted part, inspect the core: if the core is black, cut it off; if the core is white, it still has the function of absorbing and transporting water and nutrients and can be kept. ④ Do not let substrate containing base fertilizer come near the wounds on the orchid plants, to prevent decay. ⑤ Placement in yin and yang positions: their placement should be handled according to the orchids' own habits.

In short, repotting orchids is an important yet complex skill in caring for orchids well. You cannot casually repot at will; you must adhere to the scientific approach to repotting. Only by understanding their nature, grasping the principles, repotting skillfully, and managing well can you bring vigorous vitality to orchids—"strong roots and lush leaves, flowers blooming like a scene."    

VI. Bud protection in spring. New buds that sprout in early spring are the ones most capable of being grown into strong seedlings and are very important to the orchids' growth, so they should be well cared for.  Newly sprouted orchid buds are very tender, and the leaf sheaths tightly wrap the heart of the leaves; if fertilizer water or water vapor dripping from the frame enters, it can easily lead to bacterial rot and bud rot. At the same time, because the buds are tender, insects like to bite them, and they are easily infected with black spot disease, so care must be strengthened to protect the young buds. The care measures are:    

1. Open-air orchid sites must be protected from rain; orchid sheds and orchid rooms should pay attention to air convection, and do not let water vapor accumulate on the shed roof and drip back onto the orchid plants.

2. The potting soil should not be too wet; keeping air humidity between 40% and 50% is sufficient, so as to avoid root and bud rot.    

3. When new buds grow to 3 cm high, fill in with growing medium, burying the bud base by half a cm, or fill the bud base with moss, to favor root growth.    

4. Dry pots strengthen buds.   

5. Carry out sterilization and disinfection, and maintain environmental sanitation at the orchid site. Spray a fungicide once a week; every ten days, choose agricultural streptomycin or metalaxyl-copper to spray the new buds and pot surface, to prevent bud rot.  

VII.Moving orchids outdoors in spring    

1. Time: the suitable time for moving orchids outdoors should be determined by the local climate. Because the temperature difference between northern and southern regions of our country is relatively large, the time for moving them outdoors cannot be generalized; usually the south moves them out first and the north later.Orchid growingThe proverb "do not move out in spring" ,  refers to the climate characteristics of the north. Specifically, it is more suitable to move them outdoors when the temperature is stable above 20 °C, or between Qingming and Grain Rain; too early makes them prone to frost damage, and too late affects growth.

 2. Acclimatization: one or two days before moving them outdoors, first open the doors and windows of the orchid shed and orchid room to let in air and ventilation, so they gradually adapt to the outdoor climate environment; do not rush, and only after the orchids have been outdoors for about half a month may fertilizer be applied to strengthen the seedlings。    

3. Cold protection: after the orchids are moved outdoors, attention should still be paid to cold protection and warmth. This is because spring weather is sometimes clear and sometimes rainy, and temperatures rise and fall, changing unpredictably.    

4. Disinfection: when moving them outdoors, carry out one comprehensive sterilization and disinfection to reduce pests and diseases to the lowest point.    

While watching the orchids flourish and bloom, attention must also be paid to another aspect, namely the "Four Defenses":
    First, prevent fertilizer burn. When orchids sprout and emerge in spring, fertilizer must be used correctly and not too many times. When starting to fertilize, it should be light rather than concentrated, and fertilization should also depend on the orchids' own growth condition. Large seedlings and strong seedlings should be fertilized frequently; weak plants and diseased plants should be fertilized less (spraying a thin foliar fertilizer) or not at all. Chemical fertilizers and organic fertilizers should be used alternately, with the principle of being light and diluted; choose cloudy days or evening for application, and when fertilizing, keep some distance from the orchids so as not to harm them.    

Second, prevent moisture damage. First, do not water too much; second, increase ventilation; third, let them see more sunlight. To prevent moisture damage, excessive moisture is harmful to root development and seedling growth, and especially more harmful to the growth of new roots.     

Third, prevent pests and diseases. After winter dormancy, orchids have consumed a great deal of energy and their resistance has greatly declined. When the spring wind rises, the temperature gradually rises, and coupled with poor ventilation in the orchid room, all kinds of fungi stir; before the orchids have revived, they are most easily infected. This is a period of high incidence of orchid diseases. Leaf fungi are easy to detect and not difficult to control; root fungi are hard to observe, and treatment comes too late! Therefore, adhere to the principle of prevention first and combining prevention with treatment. Do the insecticidal and sterilization work for the orchid room and orchid plants well; generally in early March, give the orchid room a full-scale insecticidal and sterilization treatment. Especially in the plum rain season, it is even more necessary to frequently apply fungicides and antiviral agents. At the same time, when using a single agent, apply one agent continuously three times; after three times, switch to another agent, so as to prevent bacteria and viruses from developing resistance! It is best to mix and apply two or more different agents for a broad spectrum of efficacy.   

Fourth, prevent late spring cold. Spring climate changes rapidly, with snow, wind, cloudy rain, cold waves, and frost appearing from time to time; the weather is changeable and the temperature erratic. A sudden late spring cold is like a sharp blade; if not strictly guarded against, it is extremely harmful to orchids. Pay close attention to weather forecasts, and once it strikes, promptly take warmth and cold protection measures to protect the orchids well.   

Spring is both a season of vigorous orchid growth and an important time for caring for orchids well. It concerns the prosperity or decline of the orchids' growth throughout the year, and must be treated seriously and tended carefully, to lay a good foundation for the orchids' growth for the whole year.