Yifeng: A Preliminary Study on the Relationship Between the Sprouting Rate of Cymbidium goeringii and Temperature and Humidity

Yifeng:Cymbidium goeringiiA Preliminary Study on the Relationship Between the Sprouting Rate and Temperature and Humidity Cymbidium goeringiiDue to differences in varieties, the sprouting rate also varies considerably, ranging from 20% to 300%, with the average sprouting rate generally around 50%. Butterfly-type flowers generally have a higher sprouting rate. Based on conditions in my area (Ningbo, Zhejiang), in late March when the average temperature is around 14°C, the first-generation buds have already broken through the soil. In April, when the average temperature reaches around 18°C, the orchid shoots emerge faster. In May, when the average temperature is above 20°C, essentially all first-generation leaf buds have emerged and unfurled (except for a few varieties and weak plants). In mid-to-late May comes the plum rain season, and in June the average temperature is 26.5°C, which isorchidthe optimal temperature for growth. Second-generation buds and leaves (stacked buds) also begin to emerge. Although second-generation buds emerge at temperatures above 20°C, they are actually conceived in spring (March), while first-generation buds are conceived in late autumn and early winter (early November). After several years of observation, leaf buds are formed under low temperatures with a large day-night temperature difference, with the optimal temperature being around 12°C and a day-night temperature difference of around 10°C. During the period of leaf bud formation, relatively high humidity is required, and the environmental humidity should ideally be above 80%. First-generation leaf buds form in October-November, so management work during these two months is particularly important. Nitrogen fertilizer should be stopped, soil moisture in the pot should be increased, and special attention should be paid to not letting the bottom of the pot dry out. You can alternate spraying the leaves with 1:1000 Zhiquan and 1:500 monopotassium phosphate, once every five to seven days, for two to three consecutive times. When one to two new shoots are found on the front rhizome, spraying should be stopped, and instead 1:3000 rooting stimulant should be sprayed on the leaves twice; the new shoots will all be able to develop roots. If there are too many shoots, the new shoots will not easily develop roots and tend to produce small weak plants. At this time, absolutely do not use nitrogen fertilizer. Let the new shoots spend the winter underground developing roots and filling out the pseudobulbs. In this way, the new shoots can all produce second-generation shoots (stacked shoots), and all can become large, strong plants, thereby increasing the effective sprouting rate. If third-generation shoots appear, they are generally autumn shoots; without going through a low-temperature period, they can hardly become large, strong plants, and they also affect sprouting the following year, so it is better not to have them. The above is my personal experience over several years, and I hope everyone can discuss it together.