What is going on with orchids that pathologically refuse to settle into their pots?

Let's talk about "orchidpathological non-establishment phenomenon" Let's talk aboutorchidpathological non-establishment phenomenon. After reading the post "Talking About Stunted Bud Disease Again" by the orchid friend Junziguo (http://www.dfac.cc/showtopic-18-288144-0-0-1.htm), I found it very reasonable. I was especially moved by his spirit of daring to explore, so I squeezed out some time to share my own views. I do not deny orchid friend Junziguo's theory of stunted bud disease, and I even agree with him. Here I would like to use a more plain expression, that is,orchidpathological non-establishment phenomenon. The pathological non-establishment phenomenon in orchids is actually a pathological dormancy phenomenon in orchids, that is, due to the influence of certain causes, the orchid remains in a dormant or semi-dormant state for a long time, affecting the orchid'sFloralnormal growth. In this post, based on my own practice, I will discuss my shallow personal views on the manifestations, causes and treatment methods of the pathological non-establishment phenomenon in orchids. 1. Manifestations of the pathological non-establishment phenomenon in orchids. It is mainly shown in three aspects: leaves, buds and roots. First, leaves: the orchid leaves look listless, without their proper luster, some may show dehydration, and in more serious cases black spots and scorched tips appear on the leaves. Second, buds: in deep dormancy, no leaf buds emerge from the soil for a long time. In a semi-dormant state, leaf buds may occasionally be seen emerging, but they grow slowly, growing and stopping repeatedly, and are very hard to develop into seedlings, or may even become stunted buds again after emerging. Third, roots: becauseorchid plantsin a dormant state will protect the orchid roots themselves, the roots at this time are relatively hard and have no elasticity. The orchid roots also do not grow, and the next-new shoots that should send out roots do not send out roots either. Although semi-dormant ones may grow roots or send out new roots, none of them are normal. The pathological non-establishment phenomenon in orchids can last as long as 2 or 3 years, but in the end they will all collapse. During this period, theorchid plantshave very low disease resistance, and most will collapse from the two rots. 2. Causes. First, the influence of pathogens:orchid plantsare infected by pathogens, and these pathogens seriously affect the normal growth of the orchid plants. Second, environmental influence: the pathological non-establishment phenomenon in orchids rarely occurs in mature plants one has grown oneself, and occurs in a small number of wild-collected plants and purchased plants. Among local wild-collected plants, the occurrence rate is less than 5%, while the rate among purchased plants is much higher, possibly because they are greenhouse seedlings. Environmental influence mainly refers to temperature, humidity, light and altitude, etc. After the orchid plants arrive, because the environmental differences are too great, they cannot adapt. Third, the influence of potting medium: there is no need to say much about this, as it is very easy to understand. 3. Treatment methods. The key to treatment is to revive the orchid plants from the dormant state. I myself use a forced tough-love method for treatment, and it has fairly good results. The specific method is to grow the orchid plants with plain sand to force them to revive. First, choose the best temperature conditions for repotting, doing it in spring or autumn when the temperature is around 25 degrees. Second, use only small and medium-grained river sand as the potting medium; take one part medium-grained river sand and two parts fine-grained river sand, mix them evenly and wash them clean as the potting medium. Third, fully disinfect the orchid plants and carry out root-promoting treatment. For disinfection, use broad-spectrum fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl and chlorothalonil, soaking for more than 15 minutes, then treat with rooting powder to promote roots. Fourth, manage with full light and controlled water and fertilizer. After potting up (note: when potting up, expose the pseudobulbs as much as possible, burying at most one third), place the orchid plants in a full-light, ventilated environment for management, but they must not be exposed to the sun. Controlling water means controlling water on the leaf surface; never spray water on the leaves, but you must still water, and moreover keep it slightly on the moist side, which serves as a hint to the orchid plants that there is water in the potting medium. Controlling fertilizer means applying no fertilizer at all. After a period of management (2 or 3 months or longer), you may find that the orchid leaves become more and more glossy, and leaf buds may even emerge. Congratulations, you have succeeded. (This article carries no particular target or viewpoint, and is purely for discussion)