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Judging the Causes of Orchid Bud Blast and How to Prevent and Treat It

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Growing orchids, there are only 3 joys in a whole year: lots of new shoots in spring; lots of flower buds in autumn; lots of blooms the following year. But we often find that some flower buds turn black, shrivel and drop as they grow. How can orchid bud blast be prevented? Through years of practical observation in growing orchids, the author has found that orchids...
Growing orchids, there are only 3 joys in a whole year: lots of new shoots in spring; lots of flower buds in autumn; lots of blooms the following year. But we often find that some flower buds turn black, shrivel and drop as they grow. How can orchid bud blast be prevented?
  
Through years of practical observation in growing orchids, the author has found that flower bud differentiation in orchids occurs during the maturation period of the new shoots and lasts nearly 1 year. Generally, after a year of nutrient accumulation, the flower buds of orchids emerge from the soil. The flowering periods of the various varieties differ. After the flower buds of Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium kanran, Chun Jian and Lian Ban Lan emerge from the soil, there is a relatively long process of growth, bud development and vernalization. This process lasts 5 to 6 months at the shortest, and even 7 months at the longest. For Si Ji Lan, Xia Han Lan and others, the time from the flower buds emerging from the soil to flowering is not long: 20 days or so at the shortest, and 30 days to 40 days at the longest.
  
Whether or not a variety has a vernalization period, attention must be paid to the management of fertilizer, water and light during both the vegetative growth period and the reproductive growth period. There are many reasons why flower buds turn black, scorch, drop and die, and most are caused by excessive humidity, too much fertilizer, poor ventilation and similar factors. Generally, flower bud differentiation is enough to show that nutrition is sufficient, so there is no need to keep applying fertilizer at the roots; foliar feeding alone will do. The so-called need to pay attention to fertilizer and water management during the flowering period, to promote the flower buds to swell and reach full size, means paying attention to foliar feeding. At the same time, temperatures are on the high side during this period and the orchids are still growing, so sterilization and disinfection should be strengthened. After the flower buds emerge from the soil, if you keep fertilizing and watering, and add occasional high temperature, muggy heat and poor ventilation, flower buds will turn black, scorch, drop and die.
  
During the bud development period of orchids, from the Start of Autumn to before the Winter Solstice, topdressing with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be strengthened to promote the flower buds to swell and reach full size. Whether for sterilization and disinfection or for spraying dilute fertilizer, the interval should be 7 days to 10 days; it must not be too frequent or too concentrated, and the plants should get somewhat more sunlight, otherwise the flower buds will be damaged and the hearts will rot. In addition, pay attention to water and fertilizer control before flowering. When the flower buds are small, withhold water once or twice, as this is directly related to the quality of flowering later. If you are not in a hurry to take part in an orchid show, do not deliberately adjust temperature and humidity; let them open naturally.
  
During the vegetative growth period of the new shoots, apply multi-element fertilizer based mainly on nitrogen fertilizer to promote robust plant growth, achieve disease resistance and drought resistance, and ensure the conditions for flower bud growth. Therefore, whether the flower buds can bloom normally is inseparable from the earlier care.

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