How do you grow potted orchids? Detailed guide to cultivation methods and care management

Orchids naturally love cleanliness. They cannot tolerate dust and grime, and they grow especially vigorously in warm, humid, semi-shaded spots with plenty of south-facing sunlight. For potted orchids, pay even more attention to the following points: potting soil selection, watering, temperature and light, fertilizing, division, and pest and disease control. The details are as follows:

　　

Potting soil requirements for potted orchids:

　　

For planting orchids, you can use black mountain soil, peat soil, garden soil, pine needle soil, moss, fern roots, bark chunks, and so on. Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a piece of tile, then spread a layer of crushed brick and stone granules with a thickness of one quarter of the pot's depth to enhance air permeability and drainage, and then spread a layer of potting soil. Hold the orchid upright and plant it, fill in the potting soil, and cover the pseudobulbs. The soil should be pressed firm, and leave the area 2 cm from the pot rim unfilled to make watering easier. After planting, water thoroughly, and place it in a cool, shaded spot. After half a month, move it to a sunny, ventilated environment for cultivation. To increase beauty and moisture retention, a layer of small crushed white stones can be spread on the pot surface. There are four prohibitions in growing orchids: do not take them out in spring, do not expose them to the sun in summer, do not let them dry out in autumn, and do not keep them wet in winter. In spring, temperatures are still unstable, and taking them out of the house too early makes them vulnerable to cold wind. Taking them out in early April is relatively safe. In summer, place them under a shade frame, avoid direct sunlight, and cultivate them with scattered light. Autumn is the period when orchids sprout and send up flower spikes, so maintain corresponding humidity and avoid dryness. Orchid roots are fleshy, and in winter dormancy the water requirement is not high, so the potting soil only needs to be slightly moist; do not water too much, lest diseases of the sprouts, roots, and leaves occur.

　　

How to water orchids:

　　

A flower proverb says: dry orchids, wet chrysanthemums. This saying has some truth to it. Generally speaking, orchids do best with eight parts dry and two parts wet. If too wet, the flowers are prone to root rot and death. The principle of watering should be: water when dry, stop when wet, and keep appropriately on the dry side. In specific practice, generally note the following: during the growing period (from May to the end of June), water appropriately more; during the leaf bud emergence period (about March to April) and the flowering period (about March to April), water appropriately less; during the dormant period (winter), water even less or not at all. If the pot is large and the orchid plant is small, water less; if the pot is small and the plant is large, water more. In hot, dry weather, water appropriately more; in cool, humid conditions (such as the plum rain season), water less or not at all. For orchids newly dug from the mountains, if the root system is sparse or many roots are broken, water less and let the potting soil be a bit dry; this will prevent root rot and help new leaves emerge.

　　

How to fertilize orchids:

　　

Fertilizer should be dilute, not concentrated: during the growing period, apply once every half month with rotted bean cake water or water from horse hoof sauce residue. Adding an appropriate amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate gives even better results. Do not fertilize in the heat of summer. When the temperature is too high (above 32°C), besides daily watering, spray water several more times. Slightly acidic water is preferable. Frequently spray and wash the leaf surfaces with clean water; this not only improves the growing environment of the potted orchids, but also keeps the leaves clean and reduces the chance of pest and disease infection.

　　

Orchids are propagated by sowing and by division.

　　

Orchid seeds can be sown as soon as they are collected. Orchids have a special characteristic: orchid roots must coexist symbiotically with orchid fungi in order to survive. Therefore, when sowing, the seeds are often sown on the surface of the mother plant's pot, using the mother plant's orchid fungi to germinate and grow. The seeds germinate after about half a year, and after growing in the mother pot for two months, they can be moved to small pots for cultivation. Division is the method commonly used at present. Because orchid species differ and their characteristics vary, when is the best time to divide them is a matter on which famous orchid growers each have their own definite views. Generally speaking, the relatively suitable times are spring, before new buds emerge, and autumn, when orchids gradually stop growing. At these times, new buds are not easily bumped or broken, the temperature is relatively mild, and it is convenient for handling and for building up and restoring the plant body. Summer temperatures are high, which is the peak growing season for orchids, while winter is cold and the plant body has weaker resistance, so division is mostly unfavorable. You can also divide them after flowering has ended. Generally, those that bloom in summer and autumn should be divided in early spring; those that bloom in early spring should be divided in late autumn. In this way, flowering is not affected, and it can stimulate the tillering of leaf buds, giving green leaves and brilliant flowers. When dividing, take the mother plant out of the pot, shake off the soil, and cut it into several clumps with a knife; each clump should carry 3-4 pseudobulbs and new buds, and remove withered and decayed leaves and rotted, shriveled roots. If you use wild orchids bought from the market, since their root systems have mostly lost water and shriveled, you can first soak them in clean water, and after they have absorbed enough water, wash and clean the root hairs, then dry them in the shade until the roots turn white before planting.

　　

Pest and disease control for orchids:

　　

Orchids are prone to scale insects, which can be controlled by spraying with a 1000-fold solution of dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate. When whiteflies cause damage, spray with a 2000-fold solution of deltamethrin. Orchid roots taste sweet and easily attract ants, which can be lured and killed with meat bones. Orchids are prone to anthracnose fungi and black spot fungi. After disease occurs, promptly remove and burn diseased leaves, widen the spacing between pots and plants, and improve ventilation and light conditions. Reduce water spraying, control humidity, and apply carbendazim for control.