Detailed Guide to Orchid Care, Management Methods and Techniques

Orchids belong to the family Orchidaceae and are monocotyledonous plants, perennial herbs. They grow 20 to 40 cm tall, with long tubular roots. The leaves cluster from the base of the stem, are linear-lanceolate, slightly leathery, and grow in bundles of 2 to 3. The orchid is a traditional famous flower of China, a flowering plant renowned for its fragrance. With its distinctive leaves, flowers and fragrance, the orchid uniquely embodies the Four Pure Qualities (pure qi, pure color, pure spirit, pure charm), giving people an image of utmost purity and elegant beauty.

　　

1. Potting soil requirements: A neutral to slightly acidic soil rich in humus, loose and well-drained is best, with a pH generally around 5.5 to 6.5. In Sichuan, Emei Xiantu and "Xinghong Brand" refined orchid potting medium are often used, but more commonly "bamboo root soil" and leaf mold from under broadleaf forests in mountainous areas are used to cultivate orchids.

　　

2. Placement: In spring, summer and autumn, orchids can be grown outdoors and on balconies; choose a spot with good ventilation, moist air and no environmental pollution. A location near a pond or riverside is of course good, but at minimum there should be tall trees or a bamboo grove and a shade net to reduce sunlight exposure and lower the temperature. Orchid pots are best placed on wooden frames (or steel frames); if placed on the ground, put bricks underneath. On a home balcony, you can also use a small galvanized sheet water trough to store water, place bricks on it and grow the orchids there to increase humidity.

　　

3. Proper shading: Most orchids are semi-shade plants, and most species fear direct sunlight, so proper shading is needed. In early to mid-April, orchids can be uncovered and windows opened to let in more sunlight to promote growth. In May, except for the midday sun, they can get 6 hours of sunlight; from June onward, shade all day long; after October, except for the midday sun, they can be fully exposed for care. Remember the saying: "More shade gives good leaves, more sun gives good flowers."

　　

4. Reasonable fertilizing: Orchids are naturally "plain feeders," and fertilizing should depend on the chosen potting soil and growth conditions. Those growing vigorously and free of disease can be fertilized; those growing poorly should not be fertilized or only lightly fertilized. Newly potted orchids whose roots have not fully developed should only be fertilized after 1-2 years. Generally in June-July, when orchid leaf buds have extended about 1.5 cm, apply a decomposed liquid fertilizer once every three weeks (a dilute concentration of about 10% is suitable). Avoid chemical fertilizers. During high-temperature seasons, do not fertilize; in August-September, apply a diluted liquid fertilizer once every two to three weeks. Each fertilizing of orchids should be done in the evening, with clear water given in the morning, called "return water."

　　

5. Proper watering: Rainwater and spring water are best for watering orchids; tap water or rice-washing water must be left overnight before use. When watering, pour along the edge of the pot, and never pour into the flower buds. The amount of water should be determined by temperature, the dryness or moisture of the potting soil and the growth condition of the orchid. Plants with large leaves get more water, those with fine leaves less. In April-May, when new shoots have not yet emerged from the soil, the potting soil should be somewhat dry; if too wet, the new shoots rot easily; June-September is the growth period for orchid new shoots, so watering should be increased, once daily in the early morning on sunny days, and never water under the blazing midday sun. In autumn, reduce the amount of water appropriately; you can mist the leaves with water and keep the potting soil moist. In winter, control water even more, keeping it "80% dry, 20% moist."

　　

6. Evening misting: Orchids originally grow in humid air, so in dry seasons, besides shading, you must also mist in the evening to increase air humidity and lower the temperature; you can also pour water on the ground (or table surface) where the orchid pots sit. "One cold, one hot" can further stimulate orchid growth.

　　

7. Wind and rain protection: Yellowing and shedding of old leaves from the "February ghost wind" is normal; the withered branches and fallen leaves can be cut away. Orchids can be exposed to light rain, but avoid moldy rain, torrential rain or continuous rain, otherwise the heart and leaves rot easily. In rainy seasons, a small amount of plant ash can be sprinkled appropriately.

　　

8. Pruning and flower removal: During orchid cultivation, constantly cut away withered, yellowed, broken and diseased leaves to improve ventilation. For precious orchids, if there are too many flower buds, keep only the strong ones, with 1-2 flower buds per pot being suitable. For Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), remove the flowers half a month after blooming; for precious orchids, remove them after 7 days, so that the spring leaf buds grow robustly and bloom better the following year. For summer orchids, when the last flower on the inflorescence has been open for a week, cut it off 3 cm above the pot surface.

　　

9. Cold protection and warmth: Because orchid varieties differ and their places of origin vary, their cold resistance also differs, so the time to move them indoors in winter and their indoor placement also differ. Cymbidium kanran, autumn orchids and Cymbidium sinense (bao sui lan) grow in the south and should be moved indoors (or have windows closed and nets drawn) when the temperature is 5°C, and placed as far as possible in a sunny spot facing south. Spring and summer orchids have strong cold resistance and can stay out until 0°C, then be moved indoors and placed facing northeast. On sunny, windless days around noon, open windows facing south or southeast and draw the net for ventilation. Autumn orchids must not have windows opened on sunny days at 1-2°C. Of course, if you have a greenhouse, electric lighting can be used for heating.

　　

10. Disease and pest control: Potting soil should generally be sterilized (sun exposure also works) to prevent disease. Orchids are most prone to southern blight in rainy, high-temperature seasons; for a small amount, it can be brushed off with a damp cloth; for many pots, use 500-800 times diluted Bordeaux mixture or thiophanate, spraying once every 7-10 days. Among pests, scale insects (commonly called "orchid lice") occur most; during the hatching period, use 1% omethoate and 25% phosmet emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution, spraying once a week. To treat the symptoms you must treat the root cause: pots should be spaced appropriately, placed at different heights, and ventilation increased, so as to reduce the occurrence of disease.