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How to repot orchids? Detailed explanation of the correct method and steps

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Repotting (changing the pot) is one of the tasks in orchid care. Usually, potted orchids need to be repotted once every two to three years. By then, the nutrients in the pot are almost used up, and the orchid plants have multiplied, with roots growing too densely, leaving no room for new roots to spread, while dead, shriveled old roots remain in the pot and may spread disease. When repotting, the "eight points to note" should be followed...
Repotting (changing the pot) is one of the tasks in orchid care. Usually, potted orchids need to be repotted once every two to three years. By then, the nutrients in the pot are almost used up, and the orchid plants have multiplied, with roots growing too densely, leaving no room for new roots to spread, while dead, shriveled old roots remain in the pot and may spread disease. Newly potted orchids should not be fertilized, especially those just divided! The front shoots are planted in the center of the pot. When repotting, the "eight points to note" should be followed. 
   
1. Note the repotting time. Normally growing potted orchids do not need to be repotted every year; generally, once every 2 years. Repotting can be done in all four seasons (except in extreme heat or cold). Most orchids are repotted in spring and autumn. In spring, it is usually from late February to late April, and in autumn, late September to mid-November is suitable. But one thing must be done: two days before repotting, watering should be controlled so the pot medium is slightly dry, which makes it easier to remove the pot and prevents the orchid roots from breaking due to holding too much water. 
   
2. Note to choose a sunny day. Repotting must be done on a sunny day. The first step in repotting is removing the pot. If grown in granular media (such as Xianmei Xiantu or orchid base stone), simply invert the orchid pot, grip the base of the leaf clump with your fingers, and lightly pat the rim of the pot with the other hand to loosen the medium, and the orchid plant will quickly separate from the medium. If the traditional method is used, with "orchid mud" as the growing medium, first lay the orchid pot on its side, push inward from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with your fingers to loosen the soil, then invert the orchid pot, grip the base of the orchid leaves with your fingers, and support the mud clump; with the other hand, push the orchid plant together with the mud clump out of the pot. 
   
3. Note root treatment. Pruning requires a cutting tool; it is best to have a dedicated pair of scissors, first soaked in boiling water for a few minutes and used after disinfection. 
   
First, trim the root system. Cut off blackened roots, as well as rotten and shriveled roots. When pruning, be careful not to damage new roots, and especially take care to protect the extremely pointed, transparent "crystal tips," which are the orchid's growth points, very tender, and can break with a single careless move. Next, trim and remove decayed and shriveled pseudobulbs. When pruning, special care must be taken to protect new shoots and never damage them. 
   
The pruned orchid plants must be strictly disinfected. For disinfection, a solution of potassium permanganate at 1000 times water or a solution of thiophanate-methyl at 800 times water can be used, and the orchid roots should be soaked in the solution for 5 to 10 minutes, in order to kill pathogens. 
   
Special attention should be paid to the fact that after the orchid roots are soaked in the disinfection solution, the roots contain sufficient water, so one should not rush to pot them, as the orchid roots are prone to brittle breakage. The orchid plant should be placed in a cool, ventilated place until the orchid roots turn milky white before potting and planting. 

4. Note the disinfection of the orchid pot. When old or previously used orchid pots are reused, they must be washed clean with clean water and then dried in the sun, which can serve to disinfect and sterilize. New pots (such as unglazed clay pots) should be soaked in water for a period of time before use, which both cleans them and removes their "fire." 
   
5. Note the size and height of the orchid pot. When choosing an orchid pot, mainly select a moderately sized pot according to the orchid species, the number of orchid plants, and the vigor of the orchid seedlings. If there are many plants and they are growing vigorously, choose a pot with a larger diameter. Small seedlings and weak seedlings cannot use large pots and deep pots, and large seedlings cannot be planted in small pots and shallow pots. Generally, for Cymbidium ensifolium and Cymbidium ensifolium varieties, choose slightly larger and deeper pots, while for Cymbidium goeringii, choose smaller and shallower pots. 
   
6. Note covering the drainage hole. A piece of window screen should be placed over the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, and a piece of tile should be pressed on the window screen to prevent the potting soil from washing away without losing drainage. If it is a deep pot, in addition to the tile, fill another 1/5 of the pot height with white plastic foam or coarse-grained Xiantu to form a drainage and air-permeable layer at the bottom of the pot, then spread a layer of growing medium, and the orchid can be planted. 
   
7. Note planting upright. Straighten the orchid plant: if only one clump is planted in a pot, the old pseudobulbs should be placed toward one side of the orchid pot, leaving space for future development. Support the orchid plant upright with your hand and try not to let the orchid plants crowd together. 
   
Filling with medium and planting the orchid: hold the orchid with one hand, and with the other hand use a scoop to add the growing medium. When the medium covers up to the pseudobulbs, gently lift the orchid plant upward so that the root system spreads out even more. At the same time, shake the orchid pot so that the medium presses close to the roots. 
   
The planting depth of the orchid should be moderate: for Cymbidium goeringii, the pseudobulbs should be slightly exposed, while for Cymbidium ensifolium, the pseudobulbs should be completely covered. 
   
8. Note post-planting care. After repotting, it should be placed in a semi-shaded and well-ventilated place, then use a watering can with a fine nozzle to water carefully over the surface soil layer. Note that the settling water must be watered thoroughly. After 10 to 15 days, normal care can be carried out.

Rub the old roots; do not rub the new roots and crystal tips. Rub the old roots until wound exudate appears, that is, a slippery, sticky liquid, and rub until they feel rough. This is actually cleaning off the attachments on the root system, then leave them for a while to let the moisture evaporate.The plant root system will still secrete certain substances that stimulate plant cell activity, causing some cell tissues to transform into meristematic tissue to repair damaged tissues and heal the wounds. In this case, the vitality of the old roots is greatly stimulated.

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