Cultivation Methods and Daily Care Tips for Cold-Growing Orchids

The cultivation of cold-growing orchids varies by region and by grower. Although these cultivation methods each have their own characteristics, the method used by the editor still follows what is described in the middle volume. Plant in gyoku-tsuchi (lump soil). I have not researched any special cultivation method for cold-growing orchids, but there is quite a lot of material on this subject. I will now introduce one or two cultivation methods used by authorities in cold-growing orchid production areas for reference. What follows is a combined excerpt introducing the cold-growing orchid cultivation methods of Mr. Toshimasu Miyanoshiro Tamari of Satsuma and Mr. Hisamitsu Matsushita of Kochi, authors of "The Fragrance of Cold-Growing Orchids." In cultivation, the most important thing for cold-growing orchids is the growing medium. If the growing medium is used improperly, even the most precious and beloved valuable varieties will fall into a state from which recovery is difficult. This means that the growing medium greatly affects the success or failure of cultivation, and therefore it is necessary to select an appropriate medium. According to my own research, using the following mixed soil has yielded fairly good results year after year, so I am confident that this is an experience approaching perfection. When preparing the growing medium, the various materials should first be placed in sunlight for about two hours to kill earthworms and microorganisms. The mixing ratio is: five go of humus-rich fertile soil, five go of lightweight pumice sand (slightly smaller than rice grains), and five go of natural soil or red soil and black soil - any one of these - mixed together for use. This preparation method is the safest for beginners. Good results can also be obtained with the following preparation method: five go of mountain soil, one sho of lightweight pumice sand, and one sho of humus-rich fertile soil mixed together. Alternatively, one sho of mountain soil, one sho of lightweight pumice sand, and five go of humus-rich fertile soil mixed together will also work. Lightweight pumice sand is the driving force for absorbing large amounts of water and preventing dryness, and is suitable for blending into the growing medium. Lightweight pumice sand protects orchid roots and has strong drainage, while also being light and easy to transport, making it indispensable in cold-growing orchid cultivation techniques. Given the nature of cold-growing orchids preferring quiet, secluded locations, strong direct sunlight is absolutely harmful to them. However, April, May, and June are the most important period for sprouting, and sometimes it is beneficial to let them receive light (not all day), and during exposure the pot must be rotated once, because when sunlight does not reach the entire pot surface, new shoots only sprout in the areas receiving sunlight, easily making the orchid's form messy and reducing its ornamental value. Night dew is the most important thing for plant growth, and allowing orchids to receive night dew is also important. After receiving night dew, the leaves become fresh and gain luster. In addition, orchids in poor growing condition, if regularly exposed to night dew, can gradually recover their vigor. Spraying with a watering can in the morning and evening can also substitute for night dew. Spraying once before 3 PM during the eighteen days before the start of autumn can promote the development of new shoots. For water, natural water (rainwater) is best, but rainwater flowing from thatched roofs or sooty rooftops should not be used. For winter water, store water in a vat, dig a pit in the ground larger and deeper than the vat, leaving a slight gap around the vat, then place the vat in the pit with the top of the vat slightly lower than ground level, fill the surrounding space with straw or sawdust, cover with soil and put on a lid. The water in the vat will be warmed by ground heat, and the impurities in the water can settle, making this the most suitable water for orchids. Raw water must not be used for orchids; it must be drawn and left to stand before use. There are many types of fertilizer, and orchid-growing experts have achieved results by applying various fertilizers, but like the growing medium, there is also great risk. As long as humus-rich fertile soil is used for cultivation, there is absolutely no need for fertilizer. However, those who wish to fertilize can use oil-cake liquid that has been fermented for two to three years, diluted with water, applied once each in spring and autumn, but colored cold-growing orchids should absolutely not be given this. The most suitable transplanting periods are from early March to mid-April in spring, and from mid-October to early December in autumn. Other periods are not absolutely bad, but transplanting from May to August or September is harmful to the development of new shoots and should be noted. Cold-growing orchids reproduce very slowly and should not be transplanted every year. If division is not necessary, they may go two or three years without transplanting. Even with considerable care during transplanting, because the roots are affected, growth will be poor that year. Beginners repeatedly transplant orchids that are growing poorly, and thus cannot achieve good results. For cold-growing orchids, it is better to produce few but strong new shoots than many but thin ones; this should be kept in mind. Watering: cold-growing orchids planted in humus-rich fertile soil do not need watering every four or five days or once a week, because the soil contains moisture. During the dog days of summer with consecutive clear days, water appropriately according to the degree of dryness, and watering should be done in the morning or evening, not at noon. For cold-growing orchids planted in humus-rich fertile soil, rather than letting the soil become too dry ordinarily, it is better to keep the soil slightly moist. However, watering daily can make the growing medium cold, which is instead harmful. Therefore, in spring, water four or five times a month; in summer, five or six times; in autumn, four or five times; in winter, three or four times. Each time, water thoroughly (pest and disease control methods omitted). I live in the production area of Satsuma cold-growing orchids and frequently climb Mt. Shibi to study the natural growing conditions of cold-growing orchids, and I have gradually gained confidence in the natural, simple, and safe cultivation methods described above.