How to plant and grow Dafugui? A complete method explained in detail

 After Dafugui's new shoots emerge from the soil and open slightly, watering must be done very carefully. Its shoot shape is round and sturdy, and after the shoot mouth opens slightly, a hollow belly with a relatively large volume forms inside the shoot; if water accidentally accumulates, there is a risk of shoot rot. Its new leaves turn green somewhat later than those of other orchids, and a long tender-grass period makes them more susceptible to disease, so Dafugui is rather prone to black spots. Broad leaf surfaces mean high transpiration and easy scorching of the tips, so in summer and autumn it should be kept in somewhat more shade . Strong plants can show seven leaves; the leaves are not long but must be broad and thick. Its roots are relatively thick and strong; in large plants the roots can be as thick as a little finger, so this orchid is very hungry for fertilizer, yet it is also prone to black spots, so when using fertilizer, be sure to pay attention to the amount and timing. In early spring before the shoots move, organic fertilizer can be used to let the potting soil absorb enough, but when fertilizing, the potting soil must be dried out first; the fertilizer can be slightly concentrated and applied on a sunny morning. After the shoots move until before autumn begins, organic fertilizer should not be used. After the new grass unfolds its leaves, light inorganic fertilizer and trace elements can be sprayed on the leaf surfaces of the old grass. When spraying, use newspaper to block the new grass; it should not be sprayed onto the leaf surfaces of the new grass. Apply on cloudy days or in the evening, and the number of applications should not be too many; the amount must be low. After autumn begins, the potting soil dries out relatively quickly, and at this time the new shoots are also relatively mature; each time you water, you can add a small amount of organic fertilizer to the water, applying light fertilizer frequently, and stop using it in winter. If brought into winter with buds, it can receive somewhat more light; beginning 25 days before flowering, keep it in shade to develop the flowers, and keep the potting soil slightly moist. Flowers developed this way have green color, tall flower stems, and thick petal flesh. Dafugui requires somewhat more medication than other varieties, and even more so during continuous rainy weather. On hot, stuffy days the potting soil should be dry. Dafugui's potting soil must be clean and must not contain debris that will rot, and undecomposed fertilizer must not be applied. 

If everything is done well, you will certainly be able to grow Dafugui with both good flowers and good leaves. Last year a good friend of mine sent me a pot of Dafugui and asked me to help care for it. At the time, the clump originally had seven shoots, but recently it had lost three and a half shoots in succession. I knocked it out of the pot to look at the roots and knew it was root rot that had spread to stem rot. I immediately divided off the shoots it had already lost; the first three shoots were planted separately. After more than half a year of care, all the old pseudobulbs of the latter three shoots had rotted away completely, and the first three shoots lost another half shoot. At that time there was a small shoot below, which had already grown to more than half the height of the old shoots, with five leaves, very broad leaves, and not a single scorched tip or the tiniest black spot on the leaf surfaces of the new grass. Although I did not knock the roots out of the pot to look, the growth of the grass told me the roots had grown well. Being able to hand back grass like that to my good friend made me even happier than my good friend.

Lanfeng Tangzhu