What causes soft rot in orchids?

I. Source of the plants: The plants were already carrying bacteria when purchased. Orchids generally see new shoots being most susceptible to soft rot. As far as I know, some sellers cut off diseased new shoots before selling. After the buyer pots them, the disease may break out and cause the plant to collapse in as little as 3 to 5 days, or as long as 3 to 5 months, costing the buyer money and causing heartache. So when buying plants, you should look at the plants and look at the person, and guard the first gate well.

II. Transport: This mainly concerns the high-temperature season. Do not let them sit stifled in a closed environment, otherwise it is very likely that nothing can be seen at potting time, but a few days or a dozen-plus days after potting the plant suddenly collapses. If shipping is needed when temperatures are high, holes must be punched in the PVC pipe or packaging material to let the orchids breathe~~

II. Division: 1. According to my experience, the time each year when the two rots occur most is autumn, when new shoots have matured and are being divided. At this time, division generally separates the three-generation shoots from the parent-and-child shoots. After separation, the three-generation shoots are relatively less prone to problems. Because the parent shoot among the parent-and-child shoots is from the previous year's growth, its pseudobulb is not yet very mature and its disease resistance is somewhat poorer. Add to that the raging "autumn tiger" heat, and after division the wounds are extremely prone to infection. 2. After dividing the plants, strict disinfection must be carried out. This is the same principle as disinfecting a person's wound. My method is to first soak in medicinal solution, then seal the wound with a fungicide or wound-healing agent, then dry it thoroughly in the air, and wait until the fungicide or wound-healing agent on the wound is completely dry before potting. In this way, the wound is less likely to become infected when watering. If shipping is needed, a little disinfected dry sphagnum moss should be stuffed at the cut, and wet sphagnum moss should not be used directly, to avoid too much humidity causing infection by pathogens!

III. Watering: "Understanding orchid growing in one point, watering takes three years of skill." Although this is an old saying, as far as I know, some orchid friends have grown orchids for many years and still have not gotten past the watering hurdle. In my personal view: 1. Water thoroughly, and water thoroughly after drying out. After the surface of a plastic pot dries, wait a little longer before watering. 2. Do not water if not dry, but do not let it get too dry either, otherwise empty roots easily occur. 3. If watering with a hose, in summer be careful to release the hot water in the hose first. Although this is common sense, I also once had a problem because of carelessness. 4. When the wound is not dry, it is best not to water, to prevent infection! 5. On hot summer days, it is best to water after 10 p.m., when the heat has mostly dissipated; otherwise orchid leaves easily develop black spots after watering. 6. You can absolutely water over the top of the plants, but be careful to blow them with a fan after watering or strengthen ventilation~~

IV. Humidity and ventilation: This is a difficult problem, and it feels easy to attend to one and lose the other, but both issues are very important. It is hard to explain clearly in just a few words. In short, adapt to local conditions and explore gradually. You can sprinkle water on the ground, and if conditions permit you can also add hardware measures such as a water reservoir to store water and retain moisture, exhaust fans, additional water curtains, humidifiers, and so on.

V. Growing medium: 1. The medium must be loose, breathable, and well drained. Raw materials such as bark, rice husks, and peanut shells must be fully composted and fermented, otherwise the medium will heat up in the pot and soft rot is extremely likely to occur (I paid too great a price for being careless about this problem!). 2. Based on my experience growing ordinary orchids in the ground, as long as the soil is not changed for 2 to 3 consecutive years, whole patches of ordinary orchids often gradually collapse completely, either from stem rot or soft rot. The reason should be that after the medium has been used for a long time, acidic substances inside increase, and the acidity is too high. So I think first, the medium should be changed appropriately and frequently; second, old medium and old orchid pots must be strictly disinfected. For rare and valuable plants, I suggest not using old medium or old orchid pots. It is best to change the medium once a year, so that nutrition improves and pathogens decrease. Why not do it? Hehe~~ (Note: the last point is not absolute, but relative.)

(Qingyi River)