What are the periods when orchids should not be fertilized?

I. Do not fertilize in early spring: Orchids just brought out of the room are also gradually reviving from dormancy and resuming growth. At this time the temperature is still low, and their activity is not very strong. If fertilized at this time, the fertilizer cannot be absorbed by the plant and remains at the orchid roots, causing severe fertilizer burn. By the time of the Spring Equinox, fertilizing is at its best.  

II. Do not fertilize in the high temperatures of midsummer: Generally, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, the orchid plant may be in a dormant or semi-dormant state, vegetative growth is extremely slow, root activity is very weak, and growth has dropped to an extreme minimum. If fertilized at this time, it is like "adding frost to snow"; the orchid plant simply cannot absorb it at all, and fertilizer burn is very likely. If too much fertilizer is applied in summer, the leaves will grow vigorously in autumn, which will also lead to poor roots, leaves and flowering the following year.  

III. Do not fertilize in winter: In winter the weather is cold and the temperature is very low. The plant has already entered dormancy, and the flower buds have also entered the vernalization stage. Vegetative growth gradually slows with dormancy, so generally no fertilizer is applied in winter.  

IV. Do not fertilize at noon: No matter the season, do not fertilize at noon. It is most suitable to fertilize in the morning or evening, because noon is the hottest time in any season, and fertilizing under high temperatures very easily damages the seedling roots.  

V. Do not fertilize newly potted orchids: Newly potted orchids should not be fertilized, because if the potting soil is too rich, the orchid plant often cannot survive. Also, because the orchid seedlings have gone through many setbacks, their system is in an inhibited state, their resistance is weak, and the broken root areas have not yet healed, making them highly susceptible to virus infection.  

Only when orchid fungi gradually develop, the mycelium spreads densely, and an appropriate number of new roots has formed, does the orchid plant fully return to normal. Only after its resistance has strengthened may "light fertilizer, frequent application" be carried out.  

VI. Do not fertilize orchid plants that are not robust: If an orchid plant does not develop normally, fails to send out new shoots, and its leaves are grayish green and lack luster, droop, and have scorched tips, this may mean the root system is rotting and dying. At this time, by no means fertilize; you can only spray some foliar fertilizer to supplement nutrients, but not too much. If it still cannot resume growth, you can only repot, change the soil, prune and care for it, in the hope that it will revive and grow.  

VII. Do not fertilize when the new shoots have not grown large: When a potted orchid plant sends out leaf buds, it shows that orchid fungi have initially formed and new roots are gradually growing, and it has begun to need nutrients. But at this time the new roots are still not growing vigorously; there are few and short roots, and their function is weak. So only when the new shoots have grown to about 15 cm tall may light fertilizer be applied sparingly. If too much fertilizer is applied, the orchid roots will be damaged.  

VIII. Do not fertilize when the flower buds are not plump: When the orchid plant reaches early autumn, the new roots grow more and more, and it also begins to send out flower buds. If the flower buds produced are not plump, or even oddly shaped, this indicates that the root function is poor, and it can only barely manage reproductive growth, while unable to satisfy vegetative growth. Such an orchid must absolutely not be fertilized; you can only spray a small amount of foliar fertilizer, and it should not be done too frequently or in excessive amounts, otherwise the loss will outweigh the gain.