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Reasons and solutions for yellowing leaves in Cymbidium ensifolium

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Cymbidium ensifolium should not be watered too frequently, nor should a rigid interval be set. Water only when the potting soil is about 80% dry. Generally, after the surface soil dries, use a tool (such as a bamboo skewer) to turn over about 5 cm of the potting soil. If it is dry, water; if it is still moist, no watering is needed. Note that if Cymbidium ensifolium is cared for outdoors and...
    Cymbidium ensifolium should not be watered too frequently, nor should a rigid interval be set. Water only when the potting soil is about 80% dry. Generally, after the surface soil dries, use a tool (such as a bamboo skewer) to turn over about 5 cm of the potting soil. If it is dry, water; if it is still moist, no watering is needed. 
Note that if Cymbidium ensifolium is cared for outdoors and the above method cannot be followed, water as soon as the surface soil is dry, and do not keep it moist or waterlogged. 
If there is standing water in the saucer at the bottom of the pot, pour it out promptly. 
Apart from appropriate shading in summer, give the care environment as much good light as possible at other times, and do not place it in a shady spot for a long time. 

Now check the base of the stem. If the tissue under the skin is green and the skin is firm with no sign of looseness, it means the stem has not rotted, and it can gradually recover through the above normal light environment, reduced watering and other measures. 
If the tissue under the stem skin is brown or dark brown and fluid oozes out, and the skin is loose and lacks elasticity, it means the whole stem has rotted and there is no point in continuing to care for it. 
At this point, if the top branches are still green, cut them off promptly and insert them in clean river sand to grow new plants. High air humidity must be maintained, and the river sand does not need frequent watering. 

(2) Methods: When yellow leaves appear, depending on their characteristics, there are the following situations: 

First, water yellowing. Caused by overly frequent watering; its characteristic is that the old leaves show no obvious change while the young leaves turn yellow; watering should be stopped immediately; 

Second, drought yellowing. Caused by lack of water and drought; its characteristic is that the old leaves turn yellow first from the bottom up, and if the lack of water lasts a little longer, the whole plant's leaves will turn yellow and it may even die, so water promptly; 

Third, fertilizer yellowing. Caused by overly frequent fertilizing or too high a concentration; its characteristic is that the young leaves are thick, glossy and uneven; fertilizer should be stopped, and the soil should be cultivated and watered; 

Fourth, starvation yellowing. Caused by insufficient fertilizer, too low a fertilizing concentration, and too long an interval between fertilizing; its characteristic is that the young leaves and tender stems turn yellow first, and if fertilizer is not applied promptly after this phenomenon is seen, it will also cause the whole plant's leaves to turn yellow and it may even die; for flowers lacking fertilizer, never apply a large amount of concentrated fertilizer at one time, to avoid burning the roots; 

Fifth, iron-deficiency yellow leaves. For woody flowers in greenhouses and so on, because soil fertility conditions vary greatly, yellow leaves often appear; the characteristic is that it is obvious in young leaves, lighter in old leaves, with yellow mesophyll and green veins, forming a typical network; it can be solved by applying ferrous sulfate aqueous solution, and the method is: 7 parts cake fertilizer, 5 parts ferrous sulfate, and 200 parts water to make a diluted solution and water with it.

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