What are the practical tips for making orchids sprout more shoots?

Author: Lu Mingxiang

Techniques for making orchids sprout more shoots. At present, the propagation of cultivated orchid varieties is generally asexual, and relying on division to produce shoots is the only way for orchids to reproduce. Making orchids sprout more and strong shoots is the common wish of orchid growers, and it has always been the goal that orchid enthusiasts tirelessly pursue. In recent years, on the basis of the experience accumulated by predecessors, orchid enthusiasts have continuously practiced, explored, broken new ground and innovated, while introducing advanced foreign technology, and have achieved much successful experience. 

I. Understanding the rules of orchid shoot production is the theoretical basis for raising the orchid sprouting rate. 

As everyone knows, new orchid plants grow out from the pseudobulb, so to clarify the rules of orchid shoot production, one must first understand what a pseudobulb actually is. The pseudobulb of an orchid is a metamorphosed stem of the orchid, mostly oval in shape, with the function of storing nutrients, and is the carrier for growing leaves, roots, shoots and flowers. It is usually composed of 10-16 shortened nodes, and each node has a bud point. The top few nodes grow leaves and play roles in photosynthesis and transpiration; the bud points on the middle-upper nodes are enclosed by the foot sheath (leaf sheath) and are called upper-position buds, most of which develop into flower buds, though a few develop into leaf buds; the bud points on about 6 node positions in the middle-lower part are mostly enclosed by membranous scales and are called lower-position buds, most of which transform into shoots; the lowest few nodes grow roots to absorb nutrients and play a supporting and fixing role, and sometimes shoot production also occurs there. Therefore, theoretically each mature plant can produce at least about six orchid shoots, but under normal circumstances it produces only one shoot, sometimes two shoots, and a few produce three shoots, while the remaining bud points remain dormant. 

Having understood the rules of orchid shoot production, our task as orchid growers is, on the basis of respecting objective laws, to give full play to subjective initiative, adopt necessary measures, not let dormant buds sleep, and find ways to awaken them, so as to achieve the goal of more shoots. 

II. Moderate division is the main measure for raising the orchid sprouting rate. 

Theoretically speaking, the nutrition of orchid plants is transported in a chain-like manner. After a new growth center forms, it absorbs the nutrients produced by adjacent orchid plants. This is what we usually call "apical dominance," thereby inhibiting the germination of other dormant buds. Accordingly, we can use the method of cutting off the nutrient chain to induce orchid plants to produce shoots, that is, what is usually called "division," so as to promote the germination of dormant buds and achieve more shoots. 

From practice, moderate division is also completely necessary. 

First, if there are too many orchid plants in the pot, a situation of too many monks and too little gruel is formed, nutrients cannot be supplied adequately, and inevitably fewer and smaller shoots will be produced. 

Second, when the orchid clump in the pot becomes large and the orchid plants become numerous, the orchid roots become tangled and knotted into a ball in the pot, the orchid shoots produced below cannot squeeze out and may even bore into the roots and suffocate, causing death. Even if shoots are produced, the roots of the new shoots have no place to stand, and the shoots also grow very weakly. 

Third, old shoots and new shoots of several generations live together. The old orchid plants not only fail to produce shoots but also consume nutrients and need to be "supported by their children and grandchildren," affecting the sprouting of new growth. 

Fourth, the ancients said about growing orchids that "when extremely weak, combine; when extremely strong, divide." Division means "dividing the clump." Orchid clumps that are overly strong, overly large and overly dense often have an extremely low sprouting rate, wasting resources in vain. 

III. Planting old grass separately is an important method for raising the orchid sprouting rate. 

Generally speaking, old grass produces nutrients and silently delivers them to the next generation, which can be called "bending to the task until death." But some old grass without roots or with very poor roots actually needs nutrients provided by the new plants, which is the so-called "relying on children for support." Such old plants will inevitably affect the growth and sprouting of new plants. 

Therefore, division must be done scientifically and reasonably. Here, among the most important methods of what is called "scientific and reasonable" is "planting old grass separately." 

When predecessors talked about division, they always said it should be "separated from the road" and insisted on "three generations under one roof." Looking at it from two sides, this has its rationale: first, the wound is small, which helps the orchid plants recover; second, the survival rate is high, which can ensure the front leading growth grows vigorously and can bloom; third, it can produce large and strong growth. But there are also disadvantages, mainly that old grass and new grass are linked together and several generations live together, making it difficult for the old grass to produce new shoots again, so it can only pass its remaining years in comfort waiting for "care in old age and burial." 

IV. Twisting the pseudobulb connection is the traditional experience for raising the orchid sprouting rate. 

Twisting the connection point of the pseudobulbs to promote more shoots is traditional experience accumulated by predecessors in China's orchid circles. It is correct in theory and also successful in practice. 

Theoretically speaking, when the connection point of the pseudobulbs is twisted and injured, the transport of nutrients among orchid plants is affected, and it becomes difficult for the nutrients produced by the old grass to be transported forward, thereby stimulating dormant buds and producing new shoots. 

The specific method is: in spring, March-April, take out the orchid plant, hold the middle-upper parts of two pseudobulbs with both hands respectively (do not injure the bud points), and twist them in opposite directions by 90-180 degrees respectively, until a "pop" sound is heard. Be careful not to completely break the connecting stem; it should be left in a semi-separated state. Apply methyl thiophanate powder to the twisted area to prevent bacterial infection, then plant the orchid plant into the pot. Before long, the semi-separated pseudobulbs of the grandfather generation, father generation and child generation can each produce new shoots, and some can even produce two shoots. Shoots produced by this method are also relatively strong. 

V. Single-plant propagation is a necessary means for raising the orchid sprouting rate. 

The ancients said: orchids "like clustering and fear leaving the mother," so single planting was not advocated, and all believed that planting 3-5 plants per clump was best. 

What the ancients said makes sense, because single-plant planting produces small growth that is difficult to grow. However, because orchid prices are now high and rare varieties are in short supply, new attempts at single-plant propagation have appeared. 

It should be said that the theoretical basis for single-plant propagation is the same as the principle of twisting the pseudobulb connection, namely cutting off the nutrient transport between pseudobulbs and stimulating the dormant buds on the pseudobulbs to germinate. It is completely correct in theory. 

Single-plant propagation should be carried out in late spring and early summer, in April-May, when the temperature is more suitable for orchid sprouting and rooting. 

There are two methods of single-plant propagation: one is to repot, separate singly and plant separately, which has many disadvantages, produces small growth, and is also relatively difficult to manage. The other method is not to repot, but to remove the potting medium above the pseudobulbs, expose the connecting stem between two pseudobulbs, cut the connecting stem with sterilized scissors or a scalpel, apply methyl thiophanate powder to the wound for disinfection, strictly prevent virus infection, and after a few hours fill in sterilized potting medium, preferably Kanuma soil; after about twenty-odd days, new shoot movement can be found. In this way, the absorption capacity of the original orchid roots can be preserved, and the time for the plant to re-establish after repotting is reduced. Not only does it sprout earlier, but the shoots produced are also relatively much stronger. 

It must be explained that the prerequisite for single-plant propagation is strong plants and well-developed roots. Orchid plants with weak shoots and poor roots are not suitable for single-plant propagation. At the same time, it is limited to measures taken for rare varieties in order to preserve stock. After all, the growth produced is small and weak. As for ordinary varieties, there is no need to go to such trouble; producing a few small growths is really not worth the loss.

VI. Using hormones is a scientific measure for raising the orchid sprouting rate. 

So-called hormones are plant growth regulators that can promote cell division and activate dormant buds. Their use can make both new shoots and old grass produce more new shoots. When the new shoots have not yet matured, more new shoots can successively appear. In this way, producing two to three generations, or even four generations, of shoots in one year is entirely possible. Science has finally made the dream come true.

1. The use of hormones can indeed make orchid shoots burst forth, and producing 2-3 generations, or even 4 generations, of shoots in one year is entirely possible. 

2. Under natural conditions, hormone-induced shoots cannot all survive; only robust large shoots can grow normally (of course, in a high-temperature and high-humidity environment it is another matter). 

3. Because new growth forced out by hormones is overstimulated and its vital energy declines early, after introduction it cannot sprout normally in the second year under natural conditions, and needs one year of rest before it can sprout normally. 

In view of the advantages and disadvantages of using hormones to force shoots, I think hormone forcing can only be used for rare varieties for the purpose of propagation. Ordinary varieties should not use it, and using it has little meaning.

VII. Removing flower buds is an important means for raising the orchid sprouting rate. 

We already know that flower buds generally arise on the father-generation growth and are produced from upper-position buds. Once a flower bud forms, it consumes a large amount of nutrients. Because the nutrients produced by the orchid plant are transported in a concentrated way to the flower bud, the other bud points of that orchid plant are inhibited and cannot germinate, until the flowering period ends and after a period of rest, the bud points gradually germinate. Flowering plants, because they consume too many nutrients, have their sprouting seriously affected, which can truly be described as late sprouting, few shoots and small shoots. I have participated in orchid exhibitions for several consecutive years and feel this deeply. 

I have a pot that can be said to be an unmatched extra-large Jiepei. The flower buds it produces each year are all more than 5. When exhibited, 3 flower spikes were kept. It participated in orchid exhibitions three consecutive times and won gold, silver and bronze awards respectively, establishing great battle achievements. However, because this pot of flowers campaigned north and south for years in a row, it has now suffered great damage to its vital energy and is in a declining state. This year, after returning from the China (Nanjing) Huilan Exhibition, it was divided, and up to now it has produced only a few small growths. Its glory is no longer what it was. 

There is another pot of Jiepei. All the flower buds produced last winter were removed, and in early spring it produced two large shoots, and beside the large shoots another shoot has now emerged, presenting a thriving scene.

From this it can be seen that flowering also needs a certain "degree." Even for participating in orchid exhibitions, flower buds should not be kept in too great a number. Generally 1-2 plants are better, and the rest should all be removed. 

Removing flower buds must be timed. If removed too early, flower buds will still be produced again; if removed too late, more nutrients will be consumed. Therefore, removing flower buds should also be done at the right time. Generally speaking, the time for removing flower buds is better in winter or early spring. 

VIII. Covering old pseudobulbs is an active method for raising the orchid sprouting rate. 

So-called old pseudobulbs are old bulbs with roots but no leaves, with leaves but no roots, or with neither roots nor leaves. These bulbs are mostly removed during repotting and were originally things that should be thrown away. 

But old pseudobulbs of relatively precious orchids may as well be used, so that the dormant buds still remaining on the old pseudobulbs germinate again to cultivate new orchid plants. This is also a method for raising the orchid sprouting rate. The specific method: 

1. Time: late spring and early summer, when the daytime temperature is stably above 15 degrees. 

2. Trim the old pseudobulbs. After removing unhealthy pseudobulbs, take 2-3 pseudobulbs as one clump, trim away rotten roots and withered leaves, and be careful not to injure the bud eyes. 

3. Soak for disinfection: place the old pseudobulbs in a 1000-fold methyl thiophanate solution and soak for 10 minutes, take them out and air-dry. 

4. Drop diluted sprouting agent onto the bulbs, air-dry and wait to plant. 

5. Soak sterilized sphagnum moss in a root-promoting solution and wrap the old pseudobulbs. 

6. Place into a pot, fill Kanuma soil around them, and bury the bulbs 1-2 cm deep, then place in a cool, ventilated place for care. 

7. Water normally. Do not let them become greatly dry or greatly wet, and do not apply fertilizer. After 20 days, new shoot movement can be seen. Some may sprout a little later, so be patient and wait. 

8. After the new shoots open their leaves, they can be placed in a ventilated and light-transmitting place and gradually receive light. Do not apply fertilizer to the roots; foliar fertilizer may be applied, preferably dilute, thin and light, otherwise new roots and new leaves will be burned, and the loss will outweigh the gain, all previous efforts wasted. 

9. In the second spring, take out the orchid plants, remove withered and rotten old bulbs, and they can be cultivated and managed normally like other orchid plants. 

It must be explained that the orchid plants obtained by this method are ultimately small shoots and weak growth, and it is only suitable for propagation of precious orchids for stock preservation. For ordinary orchids, there is no need to go to such trouble. 

IX. Appropriately extending the growth period is the correct way to raise the orchid sprouting rate. 

Orchids have two growth peaks in a year, in spring and autumn, and also two dormancy periods. When the temperature in midsummer is above 30 degrees, growth stops; when the temperature in winter is below 15 degrees, growth also stops and they enter dormancy. 

Accordingly, we can use the method of strengthening management and improving the environment to appropriately extend the orchid growth period and achieve the goal of more shoots. 

The specific methods are: first, starting from the beginning of spring, raise the temperature of the orchid room to above 15 degrees for about half a month, that is, make the orchids enter the growth period half a month earlier and sprout earlier. 

Second, when the temperature of the orchid shed in summer is above 30 degrees, find ways to lower the micro-environment temperature to below 25 degrees, thereby shortening dormancy time and extending growth time. 

Third, when the temperature in autumn and winter drops below 15 degrees, take measures to raise the orchid room temperature to above 15 degrees, so that the orchids delay entering dormancy, also for about half a month, thereby extending the orchid growth time. 

Using this method to extend the growth time of orchid plants, as long as it is used appropriately, producing more than one extra generation of shoots in two years is entirely feasible. The problem is that temperature must be well controlled, and in particular each time must not be too long. The orchids must be allowed to have a dormancy process, otherwise the disease resistance of the orchid plants will decline, bringing unexpected harm and causing all efforts to fail at the last step.

X. Strengthening management is the key measure for raising the orchid sprouting rate. 

To make orchids sprout more, sprout early and produce large shoots is a systematic project involving every aspect of management. Only with proper management and appropriate measures, creating the best growing conditions for them, can orchid shoots be numerous and the plants strong. For this reason, we must also do a good job in the following links: 

First, plant appropriately deep. Predecessors advocated "covering two-thirds of the pseudobulb with soil" when potting, which refers to the situation of using leaf mold to grow orchids. Now people all use granular potting medium, and rain cannot reach them, so the pot surface easily dries out. To still advocate "covering two-thirds of the pseudobulb with soil" is somewhat mechanical application. Therefore, plant appropriately deep. Generally the pseudobulb needs to be buried about 1-2 cm, so that there is the moist soil, shaded environment and stable temperature required for orchid shoot germination and growth. If the ancient method of "covering two-thirds of the pseudobulb with soil" is still used, newly germinated shoots easily dehydrate and wither, causing death. 

Second, grasp the timing of division. The timing of division is generally at the turn of autumn and winter in October-November or in spring from February to April. At this time the average temperature is about 15oC, right around the periods before and after winter dormancy of orchid plants. It is suitable for the recovery of orchid wounds and unfavorable for pathogen reproduction, so the degree of safety is high. Then is "around the Autumn Equinox" better, or "around the Spring Equinox" better? Actually each has advantages and disadvantages. Orchid plants divided "around the Autumn Equinox" generally begin bud movement before the Spring Festival, sprout relatively earlier, and can grow rapidly once spring arrives, but they must pass through the long winter, making management difficult. Orchid enthusiasts with only a small number of pots may as well use this method. Orchid plants divided "around the Spring Equinox" sprout a little later, recover quickly and grow rapidly, but compared with orchids divided "around the Autumn Equinox," their sprouting is relatively a little later. However, for single-plant propagation, late spring and early summer are still better. In addition, in midsummer high temperatures, pathogens multiply rapidly and the risk is great, so it is better not to divide. Dividing in the severe cold of winter is not conducive to orchid plant recovery, so it is also best not to divide. 

Third, do not be careless about disinfection. Orchid division inevitably leaves cuts. The cuts of Cymbidium goeringii are a little smaller, while the cuts of Huilan are a little larger. Disinfection measures must be taken to prevent pathogens from invading while they have the chance. The ancients used sulfur powder and charcoal powder. Now it is best to apply methyl thiophanate powder to the wound, with better effect. Cutting tools must also be thoroughly disinfected. Especially for division of precious growth, throw away the scalpel blade after one use; do not begrudge it. Orchid plants, orchid pots and potting medium must also be comprehensively disinfected to prevent virus infection and ensure the safety of the orchid plants. 

Fourth, potting medium is the most critical. Potting medium is the material basis on which orchids depend for survival, and also one of the key factors determining whether orchids can sprout more and produce strong shoots. I think the most critical conditions for potting medium are: ventilated and breathable but not quick-drying, moisture-retaining and moistening but not waterlogged, mild in fertility but not violent, disease-free and virus-free and slightly acidic. Potting medium should be mixed, with appropriate proportions, complementary advantages and a relatively light texture. Growing orchids with such potting medium will make the root system strong, and orchid shoots naturally numerous, healthy and robust. 

Fifth, fertilization is the most important. Orchids grow in pots, and now most are planted with granular potting medium. The nutrients in the potting medium can hardly satisfy the needs of orchid growth. If no fertilizer is applied, the shoots produced by orchid plants cannot be large and strong shoots. Therefore, timely fertilization is completely necessary. There is a lot of knowledge involved in orchid fertilization. I have a modest work, "A Brief Discussion of Orchid Fertilization," that discusses it in more detail, and due to space limitations this article will not repeat it. The key to producing strong shoots and large shoots is to apply shoot-strengthening fertilizer. Foliar spraying of 1‰ urea and 1‰ monopotassium phosphate is relatively safe. Orchid fungus king, Zhiquan, Xishuo and others can also be used, but the concentration must not be too high. Pay attention to safety so as not to injure the shoots. 

Sixth, do not be careless about watering. Whether watering is appropriate is also greatly related to the germination and growth of orchid shoots. Watering is a special skill in growing orchids. As the saying goes, "Understanding orchid growing takes a moment, but watering takes three years of skill." Some people who have grown orchids for several years still cannot fully grasp it. During the orchid sprouting season, if too much water is applied, not only do pathogens reproduce easily, but the potting medium being too wet will also rot the shoots. If too dry, orchid shoots will dry up and shrink. Therefore the key is the word "moist": both ensuring the water needed for orchid shoot germination and not causing damage to shoots through too much water. How to grasp this degree is hard to explain in a few words; one can only slowly comprehend and master it through practice. If it is difficult to grasp for the time being, it is best to use Kanuma soil entirely as the potting medium, as watering is easier to control.

Seventh, ensure ventilation and light transmission. Ventilation and light transmission are important factors for orchid shoot germination and growth. "Shady growing produces more shoots" means that growing orchids requires shading so that orchids sprout more, while sunny growing produces more flower buds. These are all relative statements. If one-sidedly believes that "shady growing produces more shoots" and blindly emphasizes shady growing, that is a great mistake. All things grow relying on the sun. Sufficient light is the primary condition for orchid sprouting. If light is insufficient, orchids not only sprout late, but the new shoots are thin, small and prone to disease. But light must also be moderate. Here I use the word "light transmission," meaning that when the temperature is below 25oC, use a 50% shade net for shading, and when it is above 25oC, use two layers of 50% shade net for shading, so that there is both appropriate light and avoidance of strong light. When the temperature is below 20oC or on cloudy days with no sun, pull off the shade net and let the orchids bathe in the fresh air of the natural environment, which is beneficial for improving the efficiency of photosynthesis and respiration of the orchid plants, and will certainly mean more shoots and strong plants. Generally speaking, orchid gardens with good ventilation and ample sunlight not only have a high shoot production rate, but the plants are also in good condition and grow quickly. 

Eighth, prevent disease and control insects. During the germination and growth of orchid shoots, the harm of diseases and insects is the most headache-inducing thing for orchid enthusiasts. The most terrifying is soft rot; orchid shoots rot away soon after they grow out. Some orchid shoots are gnawed scarred by snails and slugs before they even emerge from the soil. Of course there are also threats from other diseases and insect pests. We must never treat them lightly. Prevention and control of diseases and insect pests should focus on prevention, ensuring healthy growth of orchids, so as to reduce losses caused by the harm of diseases and insects. Once diseases and insects have occurred, no matter how they are controlled, the loss is already irrecoverable, and it is truly too late for regret. 

To make orchids sprout more truly involves much knowledge for us to discuss and study. Truly, "the art of orchids has no end." 

        For separated orchid clumps, do not divide them too sparsely. Each clump should have at least 3-5 shoots, and it is best to keep one-year-old plants, two-year-old plants and three-year-old plants in the same clump. 

(1) Pot padding. Cover the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot with a piece of tile, then gradually fill with bricks, tiles or shells, filling the large gaps with mud particles or bean stones, generally about 1/2-1/3 of the pot height. The remaining clear height above is about 10-15 cm, reserved for the growing medium layer. Its specific height should be determined according to the orchid species, the length of the orchid roots and the height of the pot. The padding should not be filled too densely or too solidly; some pores should be retained. Practice has proved that some new roots can grow well in the pores of the padding layer. 

(2) Planting. On the padding layer, first fill in 2-3 cm of growing medium, press slightly with the hand, then place the orchid upright on it. According to the size of the plant and flower pot, several single plants, 2 clumps, 3 clumps or more clumps can be planted in one pot. 3 clumps are suitable for planting in a tripod arrangement. 4 clumps can be planted in a square. 5 clumps are suitable for arranging in a plum-blossom shape. The orchid roots should spread naturally, and the leaves should spread in all directions. Slowly place the orchid roots into the pot so that the orchid roots spread naturally and try as much as possible not to scrape against the inner wall of the pot. 

After the orchid plants are placed into the pot, gradually fix the posture of the orchid plants. If one pot holds one clump, the old pseudobulbs should be placed toward one side, leaving room for new shoots to develop. If one pot holds several clumps, the old pseudobulbs of each clump should be relatively gathered in the middle of the pot, so that new roots and new shoots have enough space to develop outward. 

(3) Filling soil. When planting, hold the leaves with one hand and add nutrient soil with the other, hold the base of the orchid plant and lift it slightly upward to spread the root system, while shaking the orchid pot to let the growing medium go deep into the root zone; continue adding soil, and shake the orchid pot to adjust the position and height of the orchid plant. Press with the hand along the edge of the pot, but never too hard or the roots will be injured. Continue adding soil and pressing until the pot surface soil is 2-3 cm above the pot rim, slightly in a steamed-bun shape. The growing medium should cover all orchid roots, covering up to the base of the pseudobulbs,

As for the depth of filling soil, tradition holds: Cymbidium goeringii should be planted shallow, and Huilan should be planted deep, but generally the standard is not to bury the leaf base on the pseudobulb. When newly produced orchids grow in the wild, the plants leave obvious markers above and below the soil surface, and these markers can be taken as the standard. The size of the flower pot should also match the size and number of plants. Do not have a large pot with small and few plants, nor a small pot with large and many plants. Generally, the number of plants should be based on the principle that after an estimated 2-3 years they will just fill the pot. The size of the plants should match the height of the pot. This is both beneficial to growth and meets ornamental requirements. 

(4) Top dressing. After planting is completed, a layer of small stone particles or green moss can be spread on the surface of the pot soil, preferably high-quality moss from under the forest. It is both attractive and can regulate moisture, and can also protect the leaf surface from being polluted by muddy water, so that new shoots will not be infected by pathogens in the soil and rot at the heart; in addition, it can also slow the washing away of the pot soil by rain and keep the pot soil loose. 

(5) Watering. After planting is completed, water for the first time immediately. The pot soil must be thoroughly wetted. The water droplets should be small, and the impact force should not be strong. If placing in a water basin to soak, never soak too long. Once the pot soil is soaked, immediately take the orchid pot out, then move it to a shaded place for care.