What are the results of using Kanuma soil? Guoxiangju shares a practical test.

I started using Kanuma soil to grow orchids in 2004. At first I mixed it 50% each with Xiantu or northern Jiangsu mountain soil and used it in clay pots. Since northern Jiangsu mountain soil is not very good in various respects, and Xiantu also underwent different qualitative changes in that era, the mixed use did not achieve ideal results.

Starting in 2005 I began thinking hard about how to use Kanuma soil, and I also paid attention to other orchid growers' results with Kanuma soil. When I saw that Brother Tiantang grew pure Kanuma soil mixed with tree-fern fiber in clay pots and produced roots that were robust one and all, that feeling was truly delightful. At that moment I understood that when using hard materials, it is best to mix in strip-like fibrous materials such as tree-fern fiber, so as to help orchid roots grow downward.

From 2005 to 2008 I continuously summed up my experience with Kanuma soil, and I can say the gains were many. Below I will list examples centering on several summaries and impressions from recent years.

1. Results of using Kanuma soil for forcing old pseudobulbs

Kanuma soil is clearly quite effective for forcing old pseudobulbs with obvious old pseudobulbs. In 2006 I used pure Kanuma soil to force buds on an old Cymbidium goeringii pseudobulb. When I repotted on December 5, 2006, it showed as 1 seedling with 1 old pseudobulb. The old pseudobulb had 1 bud point. There were two roots. It had 3 leaves, with leaf length 20 cm and leaf width 0.5 cm.

When repotting on October 11, 2008, the original old pseudobulb had already become empty, and the two leaves of the plant produced in 2006 had already deteriorated. The back-row plant had three leaves, and the front-row plant had four, with leaf length 26 cm and leaf width 0.5 cm. All tips were fully closed. A second-generation bud had emerged 3.5 cm. There were 18 snow-white roots. Among them, the new root of the second-generation bud was 1.7 cm long and 0.4 cm thick. The other roots were 0.3 cm thick and 11 cm long. Through cultivation over 3 growth periods, the bud forced from that old pseudobulb had already laid the foundation for producing strong seedlings.

I explained the method of using Kanuma soil to force old pseudobulbs in great detail in the article "Conversion of Growing Media for Forcing Buds." Interested orchid growers may wish to read it.

2. Results of using Kanuma soil on weak plants

In April-May 2006, I planted 5 newly collected Cymbidium faberi using 40% orchid fungus soil mixed with 55% Kanuma soil and 5% tree-fern fiber. By August, surprisingly, none of the 5 new flowers had produced any new shoots. Helpless, from late August to early September I repotted the 5 pots of Cymbidium faberi and changed the growing medium. What I saw when repotting was mostly no new roots or only 2-3 short roots, while the original roots were blackened and slightly carbonized. New flower No. 90, Piaomen, and Guoxiang Hedie had new buds forming, while the others showed none. I now excerpt the data from when new Cymbidium faberi No. 95 was divided: the new seedling's leaf tips were scorched, so it was repotted. The original collected root system remained unchanged, but no new roots had grown, so it was divided into two sections of two seedlings each and planted separately. The strong one was A, and the weak one was B. The strong front-row plant had two growth points, and the weak front-row plant had one growth point. After slight pruning of the roots, they were soaked for 1 hour in a root-promoting solution, air-dried for 2 hours, and potted. A medium-sized clay pot was used for planting. Kanuma soil 95% and tree-fern fiber 5% were used, with no basal fertilizer applied. Plastic foam blocks were used for drainage at the bottom. Dividing into two pots was mainly to establish double insurance. The goal was to first build good roots and strive to produce 3-4 buds in 2007.

On October 23, 2006, I removed 2-3 cm of Kanuma soil from the pot surface to check the performance of the new root system, and saw that the front-row plant had sent out 3 new roots 3-5 cm long and 0.6 cm thick, so I buried and applied basal fertilizer: 15 granules of Zhixiang, 25 granules of magic fertilizer, and 10 granules of active soil. On November 19, 2006, double-row buds emerged in block A, and 1 plump bud emerged in block B, accompanied by new root tips. The other pots also performed remarkably.

Now I will list the entire management of new flower No. 90, green Cymbidium faberi Piaomen, as follows:

New flower No. 90, green Cymbidium faberi Piaomen, was collected from the mountains in April 2005. Two weak plants were collected with flowers. Because the root system was extremely damaged, Kanuma soil mixed with tree-fern fiber was always used for planting, and a medium-sized clay pot was chosen. That autumn a weak autumn bud appeared, and in 2006 it grew into a weak plant with 3 leaves.

On October 23, 2006, I removed about 2 cm of Kanuma soil from the pot surface, saw that the new plant had some new roots, and top-dressed with basal fertilizer: 10 granules of Zhixiang, 30 granules of magic fertilizer, and a little active soil. Kanuma soil mixed with a little tree-fern fiber was used to reseal the pot surface. From 2007 I persisted in using Yilan fungus, with unified water and fertilizer management. By autumn it had grown into three mature, medium-to-strong new plants, one of which produced a flower bud on August 10, 2008. In 2008 it produced 5 new plants; now each new plant ranges in height from 35-48 cm, with 6-7 leaves, and leaf width 1.1 cm. The mature plant that produced the flower bud was 59 cm tall, with leaf width 0.9 cm and 7 leaves. Now, including the collected plants, there are 11 plants in total. Except that the autumn bud produced in 2005 had slightly scorched tips when it matured in 2006, the 3 plants produced in 2007 and the 5 plants produced in 2008 all had fully closed tips. Judging by the trend of rejuvenation, the new plants of 2008 already had leaves 0.2 cm wider than the plants of 2007, and also produced 2 more plants, and successfully induced the 2007 plants to sprout flower buds. Judging by the acceleration of vegetative growth, reproductive growth was not neglected either, so in this way the relationship between vegetative growth and reproductive growth can be brought toward balance.

Using Kanuma soil 95% and tree-fern fiber 5%, with no basal fertilizer applied, the later management of the 5 pots of newly collected Cymbidium faberi planted with plastic foam blocks at the bottom was the same as for No. 90 Piaomen. Every pot's plants were robust, with pure white roots filling the pots. On October 11, 2008, when repotting pot B of new Cymbidium faberi No. 95, it could be seen that the root growth was excellent. Fresh roots filled the pot and pressed tightly against the pot wall, and root tips even protruded from the round holes of the drainage cover. It took some effort to remove the pot. Pot A of new Cymbidium faberi No. 95 also performed extremely well; with robust plant growth, it even produced 3 flower buds. The divided block B could not be planted back into the original pot, so a large deep-bottomed plastic pot had to be chosen for planting.

The results of reasonable management through multi-pot trials show that planting with a ratio of Kanuma soil 95% and tree-fern fiber 5% is quite good for root and plant development, and after the plants rejuvenate, reproductive growth is also good.

3. Soilless culture management of Kanuma soil for species preservation and its significance

The successful trials of several soilless culture methods for species preservation as described above show that the effect is obvious and the significance is far-reaching. When forcing old pseudobulbs or weak plants in soilless culture to breed new buds and induce new roots, one should observe more carefully and grasp the situation at all times so as to adjust the management plan in time. When 2-3 new roots are obtained, with length 3-5 cm, a dilute fertilizer solution can be given. By late autumn, when new roots reach about 7 in number and length above 7 cm, organic or inorganic slow-release granular fertilizer can be buried and applied as basal fertilizer, and the following year water and fertilizer amounts can be gradually increased in management. In short, in water and fertilizer management, treatment should be handled according to the condition of the plants. Since Kanuma soil itself contains no nutrients at all, when top-dressing, organic fertilizer should be the main type and inorganic fertilizer supplementary. The key substance that assists water and fertilizer management and can also extend the service life of Kanuma soil——Yilan fungus is indispensable. In water and fertilizer management, mixing 300-500 times diluted Yilan fungus liquid each time can keep the pores of Kanuma soil from accumulating inorganic salts and producing toxic substances that blacken new root tips and cause root damage. At the same time, it can also maintain its characteristics of fast moisture absorption and excellent moisture retention. In addition, it can also achieve the effect of no harmful bacteria hiding within, thereby realizing the goal that Kanuma soil can be used continuously for 3-5 years without replacement and still grow orchids well. When using pure Kanuma soil, it is essential to mix in about 5% plant fiber, preferably slender strips that do not rot easily. At present, tree-fern fiber is mostly used for mixing, so that heavy water drains away quickly, and new root tips easily grow downward along the slender strip-like fibrous material, which helps strengthen roots. Under the action of Yilan fungus, the slender strip-like fibrous material mixed into Kanuma soil will not acidify due to rot, thereby realizing the safe use of old Kanuma soil.

4. Mixed planting management with Kanuma soil and its significance

Mixed planting of Kanuma soil with organic granular growing media is the most common, and is often seen in clay pots, sweating pots, purple clay pots, and plastic pots. Mixed use of Kanuma soil and organic granular growing media can achieve complementary advantages. On the premise of ensuring aeration and moisture retention, it can achieve diversification of trace elements, and while ensuring good root growth, it can make new buds plump, plants robust, flower quality better, and floral fragrance more subtle. For mixed planting of Kanuma soil with organic granular growing media, seedling quality of medium or above is preferable, so that plants with better seedling quality can have greater scope to perform. When the mixed organic granular growing medium does not exceed 50%, I always apply slow-release basal fertilizer, so as to achieve mutual supplementation between basal fertilizer and top-dressing. Top-dressing should follow the principle of being dilute, with organic fertilizer as the main type and inorganic fertilizer as supplementary. Combined with water and fertilizer management using 300-500 times diluted Yilan fungus liquid, organic granular growing media can be prevented from powdering and compacting; when repotting, dust can be removed by sieving and then reused, so as to maximize the use of the growing medium.

Conclusion:

In the use of Kanuma soil, through multiple trials over 5 growth periods, from not quite understanding the mechanism and function of Kanuma soil to being able to effectively master its use, one can say this was a leap from practice to understanding. All things share the same principle. When we go from practice to comprehension and mastery, this cannot be separated from hard work, careful observation, and being good at summing up. When I spent several years practicing and became proficient in its use techniques, I would not feel regret for that precious time lost. I remember a schoolmate's gift line from middle school: “Gain must be accompanied by loss.” I have treasured it to this day. I will not be discouraged by failure, nor will I feel smug every day because of success. Because my capacity for understanding is rather poor, I must spend more time exploring. I think that time spent is worth it.

The above humble offering in this article is hoped to serve as a reference for new orchid growers. For any mistakes, I hope experts will kindly correct them. Sincere thanks!