These care points need attention during the orchid sprouting period

1. Getting orchids to sprout well is the shared wish of orchid growers. The author will venture a few modest observations here to share some personal experience and exchange views with fellow orchid enthusiasts.

(1) Sunlight. Adequate light is the primary condition for orchid sprouting. Orchids lacking light not only sprout slowly, but their new shoots are thin, small and weak, and prone to disease. Ways to create light conditions: first, the shading at the orchid nursery must be moderate; second, light can be increased for orchids in appropriate stages, commonly called sunning the pots. Specifically, after the Spring Festival, when the temperature gradually warms, begin exposing them to more sunlight. Before the end of March, when the temperature is below 20°C, full sun can be given. After that, for Cymbidium goeringii (spring orchid), when the temperature is above 20°C cover with one layer of shade netting, and above 30°C cover with two layers of shade netting; for Cymbidium faberi (Huilan orchid), full sun can be given until the end of May, and when the temperature reaches above 30°C cover with one layer of shade netting, and above 35°C cover with two layers of shade netting. Adjust the shading level throughout the year according to season and temperature, so that the orchids receive light to the greatest extent possible and store up ample vitality.

(2) Temperature. The most suitable temperature for orchid growth is 20°C to 25°C; below 8°C and above 30°C growth is slow. Therefore, if we want orchids to sprout more and grow vigorously, we must find ways to avoid or shorten the space and time of temperatures unfavorable to orchid seedling growth. Those with the means can build a glass greenhouse and use air conditioning or a water curtain to regulate room temperature, creating a micro-environment that shelters orchids from heat and cold. Those without the means can also use plastic film greenhouses to raise temperature, irrigate or sprinkle water on the orchid ground, and install fans in the site to cool it down, and so on, to regulate temperature.

If suitable temperatures can be maintained, the orchid's new shoots of that year will grow normally in all four seasons, and the new seedlings of that year can even send up autumn shoots again, and can grow into large seedlings within the same year.

(3) Water (humidity). Orchids have pseudobulbs that store water and are relatively drought-tolerant plants, but water is equally very important for their growth. During the orchid sprouting period, it is even more necessary to promptly supply sufficient but not excessive water to favor new shoot growth. Many beginner orchid growers wait until the potting medium is dry, pale and hard before watering, which is harmful and of no benefit to orchid sprouting. In the author's view, one should grasp moderation, and it is best to water promptly when the potting medium is slightly moist, dry on top and moist below, and not yet thoroughly dry. At the same time, the moisture in the air of the orchid nursery should be appropriately increased. During the orchid growth period, the relative humidity of the air is 60% to 75%; the relative humidity of the micro-environment can be increased by spraying and sprinkling water, and if an automatic electrically controlled humidifier can be installed, the effect is even better.

The principles of watering orchids are: water more during the growth period, water less during the dormant period; water more for thin-leaved ones, water less for thick-leaved ones; water more for vigorous ones, water less for weak ones. Overall, one should still note that during the sprouting period the potting medium must be kept moist, avoiding the orchid pot becoming too dry.

(4) Aeration. Fresh air is very important for the healthy growth of orchids. Not only should the orchid room pay attention to air circulation, but the potting medium should also maintain good air permeability. It is best to use granular orchid medium made from Xiantu soil, crushed brick, weathered rock, etc., which is more favorable for orchid sprouting.

(5) Fertilizing. Orchids must be given sufficient basal fertilizer in late autumn. In early spring, topdressing should be applied appropriately. Before sprouting, using an appropriate amount of sprouting hormone can promote a high orchid sprouting rate. Commonly used preparations include Cuibaisu, Xiduolan, Shoushanghao, Huabao, Lanjunwang, etc.; just use them according to the instructions. Many orchid enthusiasts report that in the first half of the year using Zhiquan diluted and sprayed on leaves, and in the second half of the year using Zhixiang granules buried in the surface soil, with topdressing along with watering, can both make orchid shoots emerge more and make orchid seedlings sturdy. Management of Cymbidium tortisepalum (Lianbai orchid): Cymbidium tortisepalum has strong adaptability; they can withstand blazing sun and resist frost and snow, which is one of its major characteristics. The second characteristic is strong disease resistance and a high sprouting rate (generally 70%-80%); third, fine leaves and hard grass-like growth, large flowers, and a long flowering period; fourth, diverse flower shapes and a delicate, far-reaching fragrance.

Orchids need a shady, moist, and ventilated natural environment. After being collected from the mountains, people build orchid gardens suitable for their growth. Large-scale cultivation must build arched greenhouses, covered with black shade netting with 60%-80% shading, and additionally prepare movable plastic greenhouses to guard against frost, snow, and rain. Courtyard cultivation is maintained indoors according to the season.

For placing orchid pots, several methods are better: building platforms, setting up racks, and hanging cultivation. Racks, besides wooden racks, include aluminum racks, rebar racks, angle-iron racks, etc. Inside the greenhouse there need to be three connections (path access, water access, electricity access), with walking passages left everywhere to facilitate managing each pot of orchids. A walking passage is also left along the side by the wall, that is, ventilation on all four sides. Water access allows automatic spraying and irrigation. Although it is good to have drainage channels in the ground, orchid racks should be placed above. Electricity access allows lighting or nighttime insect elimination, and an ultraviolet sterilizing lamp can also be installed. The preparation of growing medium can be determined according to specific circumstances. My soil mixing ratio is: 60% humus soil, 30% raw red soil, then mixed with 10% fine river sand. But all must be disinfected (including orchid pots, soil-mixing shovels, lining materials, pot surface coverings, etc.).

First place 1/3 lining material at the bottom of the pot; it must be loose. It is best to use chestnut bark stood upright and placed on the side, with one or two layers of oak placed above, so that the growing medium does not block the gaps of the lining material. Where the above conditions are unavailable, plastic foam or broken tiles can be used as substitutes for the lining material. After straightening the orchid roots and planting them in the center of the pot, hold the orchid bundle upright with the left hand and fill the prepared growing medium around it. Then lift the roots again to check whether the filled soil is loose and fluffy. Finally, cover the pot surface well with covering material (sphagnum moss, etc.), and normal management can begin.

2. Propagation and cultivation techniques for Cymbidium ensifolium (Jianlan orchid)

(1) Propagation

1. Selection of pots. It is better to plant orchids in orchid pots that are rough in texture, without a top glaze, with many holes at the sides and bottom, and with pot feet. For mass production, thin plastic soft pots are the most economical. For exhibition-oriented orchid growing, tall, simple small pots are used so they can be slipped into elegant pots for display in season.

2. Preparation of growing medium. The growing medium should be selected for being loose, with good granular structure, rich in organic matter, good air permeability, and strong drainage performance; it should be favorable for aerobic microbial activity and enhance orchid-fungus symbiosis. The following mixed growing media can be used: 40% humus soil, 40% fired soil, 20% coarse sand grains; 30% shiitake mushroom soil, 30% fired soil, 25% coarse sand grains, 15% rice husk; 40% humus soil, 40% coarse sand grains, 20% rice husk.

3. Planting of orchid plants

(1) Seedling treatment. After orchid plants are lifted from the seedbed, rinse the mud and sand off the root mass, remove leafless pseudobulbs, and cut off diseased and damaged leaves and decayed roots. Before planting, soak the seedlings for half an hour in a 2000-fold dilution of Topsin or Keshade, then take them out, rinse clean with clear water, place them in a ventilated place, and let the moisture dry before planting.

(2) Planting. Plants with only 1-2 clumps can be planted in the exact center of the pot. For pots with multiple clumps, the old plants of each clump should face the center of the pot and the new plants should face the pot rim, so as to increase the sprouting rate of the new plants and the space for growth and development. When planting, put the coarsest growing medium into the pot up to 15% of the pot height. After placing the orchid plant, distribute the root mass evenly, carefully preventing the orchid roots from being broken or damaged, and slowly fill in fine growing medium up to 95% of the pot height. Tap and shake so that the fine growing medium closely combines with the orchid roots. The height of the fine growing medium in the orchid pot is about 90%, which is convenient for irrigation, and the orchid plant base (pseudobulb) is half exposed on the pot surface, giving it more opportunity to obtain natural light and fresh air.

(2) Care and management

1. Light control and cooling. Cymbidium ensifolium growth is suitable between an annual average temperature of 15-23°C. Summer temperatures are hot; use 70-80% plastic shade netting to cool down.

2. Cooling under high temperature. For high temperatures caused by excessive light, increase the layers and density of shading to promote cooling; in summer and autumn, when light is strong, the air is stuffy and hot, and the temperature is high, open doors and windows to let the air in the orchid site convect thoroughly and promote cooling. Sprinkling clear water on the passages and under the orchid racks, and spraying water mist into the indoor space, can also promote cooling.

3. Moisture retention and ventilation. Moisture retention and ventilation in the orchid site must be regulated to the most reasonable state to favor orchid growth. To maintain air humidity, advanced fully automatic humidifiers can be used, or water mist can be sprayed into the space, passages, and under the orchid racks. Maintaining substrate humidity should be regulated according to conditions such as light, humidity, and ventilation. For soil cultivation, water once every 2-4 days, insisting on preferring dry over wet; the timing of watering should be adapted to local conditions. Wild orchids originate in mountain wilds and secluded valleys. The production areas are open on all sides, but there is also shade from forest and grass, and a gentle breeze blows from time to time. They have long grown in an environment with fresh air. Therefore, the orchid site also needs to create these conditions for orchid growth. If the orchid site is relatively enclosed, more doors and windows should be added to promote air convection.

4. Heat preservation and frost protection. Cymbidium ensifolium can only tolerate brief, intermittent low temperatures of -2 to -5°C under protective conditions sheltered from wind and frost. Therefore, in winter it should be kept warm in a greenhouse, and those with the means can also use heating equipment.

5. Fertilizing. Adopt measures suited to the orchid, determine fertilizer by the seedling condition, prefer dilute over concentrated, and apply thin fertilizer at the right time. That is, according to the orchid species, seedling vigor, and physiological characteristics, grasp the timing. Dry fertilizers used: cattle bone meal (containing 4% nitrogen, 22.06% phosphorus), plant ash (1.04% phosphorus, 6.41% potassium), cake fertilizer (7% nitrogen, 1.32% phosphorus, 2.12% potassium) and fired soil mixed fertilizer, used alternately with compound fertilizer, no less than 4 times per year in each pot. Liquid fertilizer: filtered and diluted liquid of decomposed organic fertilizer, urea, monopotassium phosphate, or special flower fertilizer used alternately as topdressing or foliar feeding, generally once every 15 days. When spraying as foliar feeding, spray the leaf surface once with clear water two days before and after to rinse off dust and pesticide residue.

Fertilizing times include:

① Sprouting-promoting fertilizer (late spring and early summer): dry fertilizer once or twice, foliar feeding once every 10 days, mainly nitrogen and potassium fertilizer, to promote the extraction and growth of aboveground stems and leaves and the expansion of the underground root system.

② Development fertilizer (late summer and early autumn): as new shoot leaves extend and emerge, to promote the sturdiness of new shoots, mainly nitrogen, applied frequently and thinly. After the new shoots open their leaves, mainly potassium to promote strong seedlings, spraying once a week with monopotassium phosphate.

③ Flower-promoting fertilizer: when the leaves of new shoots stop growing, they then enter the flower bud differentiation stage; mainly phosphorus, dry fertilizer twice, foliar feeding once a week.

④ Late autumn and early winter, from Cold Dew to the Start of Winter, orchids will enter the dormant period. Apply dry fertilizer once, liquid fertilizer twice, and spray on leaves once every 10 days, to ensure safe overwintering, accumulate richness and nurture excellence, and increase the sprouting rate the following spring.