Detailed Explanation of the Correct Methods and Techniques for Fertilizing Orchids
Do not fertilize if the new roots have not grown to fill the pot. After the orchid seedlings have gone through repeated disturbances, the organism is in a conservative and suppressed state. Their resistance is very weak, the broken root wounds have not yet healed, and they are highly susceptible to disease infection. When planting, besides making sure to use weakly acidic humus soil or ordinary plain soil, absolutely do not apply basal fertilizer. Due to environmental changes, after potting, the orchid seedlings slowly recover their functions in the moist substrate, but this is a fairly long period of adapting to the pot. During this time, because the orchid roots have not fully recovered their functions, they basically do not absorb fertilizer from the soil, and rely entirely on the nutrients stored in the pseudobulbs to supply the needs of roots, leaves, and shoots. Only when orchid fungi gradually develop, the mycelium spreads densely, forming conditions suitable for vigorous orchid growth and nearly covering the orchid pot, do the orchid seedlings completely return to normal and their resistance increases, at which point a light thin fertilizer may be applied. This process takes about 1-2 years. Although no fertilizer is applied during this period, the orchid seedlings can still grow and develop normally and slowly, because the nutrients produced by the orchid fungi can basically meet the needs of the orchid seedlings at this stage.
Do not fertilize if the orchid plant is not robust. During the fertilizing period, if the orchid plant develops abnormally, cannot put out new shoots, and the orchid leaves are grayish-green, dull and lusterless, drooping with scorched tips, it indicates that the old roots are continuing to rot and new roots have not grown out. At this time, fertilization must absolutely not be applied; only regular foliar spraying of fertilizer can supplement nutrients. If it still cannot return to normal, then the seedlings must be lifted, disinfected, and repotted with changed soil.
Do not fertilize if the new shoots have not grown large. When potted orchid seedlings put out leaf shoots, it indicates that orchid fungi have initially formed, new roots are gradually growing out, and nutrient absorption has begun. But at this time the new roots are still very short and few, with very weak function. In order not to affect their development, no fertilizer of any kind should be applied either. Only after the new shoots have grown to 15 cm in height can a little fertilizer be applied.
Do not fertilize if the flower buds are not plump. By early autumn, the new roots become increasingly strong, and flower buds begin to emerge. If the emerging flower buds are not plump or even deformed, it indicates that root function is still not vigorous and can only barely satisfy reproductive growth, not vegetative growth. This kind of orchid with insufficient internal strength also cannot be fertilized, and nutrients still need to be supplemented through foliar spraying.
Five instances of not fertilizing based on seasonal timing
Do not fertilize in early spring: Although spring temperatures are very low, orchid seedlings are just gradually reviving from dormancy, and their activity capacity is very weak. If fertilizer is applied at this time, it will remain at the roots because it cannot be fully absorbed by the orchid, causing fertilizer damage.
Do not fertilize in summer: When the temperature generally reaches around 35 degrees C, orchid seedlings enter a semi-dormant state, vegetative growth slows down, and root activity weakens. Fertilizing at this time is likewise difficult for orchid roots to absorb and easily causes fertilizer damage.
Do not fertilize in winter: Winter temperatures are very low, orchids enter dormancy, flower buds enter the vernalization period, vegetative growth stops, and fertilization cannot be applied.
Do not fertilize in bad weather: Do not fertilize when it is raining or about to rain. First, the applied fertilizer is easily washed away by rainwater and lost; second, due to weather changes, orchid root activity is relatively weakened.
Do not fertilize at noon: It is best to fertilize in the morning or evening on clear days. At noon the temperature is relatively high, and fertilizing easily harms orchid seedlings.
What fertilizer to apply
Decomposed farmyard manure: Farmyard manure is a very good organic fertilizer, but it must be piled and decomposed for more than one year before it can be applied. This kind of fertilizer liquid can be diluted with water 10-20 times and poured on. Try to apply it along the edge of the pot, without contacting the roots, and without touching the orchid leaves.
Chemical fertilizers: When applying chemical fertilizers, attention must be paid to the balance of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and the concentration must be strictly controlled. For variegated-leaf seedlings, the synthesis of chlorophyll should be controlled. Nitrogen fertilizer is not suitable, nor should fertilizers containing manganese and magnesium be applied (such as calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer, etc.), because manganese and magnesium elements can accelerate the synthesis of chlorophyll. For flowering orchids, if cultivating large-petaled flowers, an appropriate amount of nitrogen fertilizer may be added.
How to fertilize
Frequent light applications, small meals more often: Orchids do not need much fertilizer during their development and growth period. For vigorously growing and robust orchid plants, a dilute liquid fertilizer may be applied once every 10-15 days.
Foliar spraying as the main method: Foliar spraying can both supplement the orchid plant's nutrition through absorption by the orchid leaves and avoid fertilizer contacting the roots and causing fertilizer damage. For orchids, it is the best fertilization method. As long as during the growth and development period, foliar spraying is carried out about once every 10 days, orchids can be cultivated very well, and there is no need to apply fertilizer into the pot. Potassium dihydrogen phosphate at 1:1000 and boron fertilizer at 1:1000 can be used, and aloe liquid can also be used. This is because aloe contains large amounts of nutrients such as polysaccharides and amino acids, and contains more than 20 kinds of minerals, which can satisfy the nutrients needed by orchids. In addition, aloe contains aloe anthraquinone compounds, which can kill almost all bacteria and viruses. After application, there is no need to apply pesticides again for disease prevention.
Mainly use natural organic matter. Natural organic fertilizers have relatively comprehensive nutrient elements, so there is no need to apply other fertilizers, and they are mild in nature with no side effects on plants. Chemical fertilizers, however, easily cause the substrate to harden, and most chemical fertilizers are acidic. Long-term application will cause the substrate to become overly acidic and lead to disease.
(Source: China Landscape Web)