What is the reason orchids should not be repotted in June?
This ruler marked "Pirate Rossi" is actually a growth record for the orchid grass, and it contains a lot of information. Large plants can indeed grow about 3mm~5mm per day. In fact, to observe how a plant is growing, you can draw a faint line on the new shoot and draw it every day. After 10-odd or 20 days, it becomes a ruler. The grass...
Author: tangleshu
Key points for repotting in June
For new orchid growers, the plum rain season is also the season that orchid growers dread most for repotting and dividing, and it is the biggest taboo of the year. Repotting at this time is riskier than in the scorching July and August, and eight or nine out of ten growers with little orchid experience will lose their plants, because this period is mostly rainy weather, with high moisture content in the air, high humidity, and temperatures also quite suitable for the growth and reproduction of various microorganisms. Pathogens are extremely active, and when repotting and disturbing the soil, the slightest carelessness can wipe out an entire pot of orchids. In my early years of growing orchids, I also failed frequently when disturbing the soil in this season. Some orchid growers say orchids have fleshy roots and are not afraid of being taken out of the pot and put back in, but in this season the orchid roots grow very fast, the root epidermis is tender, the roots themselves have low dry matter content and poor disease resistance, and on top of that the broader environmental conditions are quite suitable for the reproduction of various pathogens, so it is very easy to cause deep pathogen infection of the plants. If the soil is unsuitable, after repotting it tends to stay wet for a long time without drying, and it is even more likely to show symptoms and collapse and die within 2 weeks after repotting, at which point there is no saving it.
So what exactly should be paid attention to when repotting in June?
1. Repotting plants; after repotting, the disinfection of the plants must be done carefully. After taking them out of the pot, the roots must not be exposed to the air for too long, and they should not be dried in the sun either. You can choose antibacterial pesticides such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, and chlorothalonil, dilute them 800 to 1000 times, and soak the plants in the solution, usually for 15 to 30 minutes. Once disinfection is complete, they can be potted. If dividing plants, tool disinfection and wound disinfection must be even more careful, and open wounds must be treated scientifically and sealed. This includes making sure the potting medium near the wound is clean and must not be too rich in fertilizer, and around the wounded pseudobulb, try not to use potting medium containing organic matter.
Requirements for orchid soil; for organic potting medium, try to use fully matured material that contains no powder and holds water moderately. Inorganic material must also be clean and on the drier side in terms of water content, and should not hold too much water.
Treatment of orchid soil; the prepared orchid soil is best steamed at high temperature, with steam rising for more than 30 minutes, then left to cool completely before use. What must be emphasized here is that depending on whether the material is dry or wet, if it is too dry you can add antibacterial solution as needed until it is slightly moist, to prevent pathogens in the air from contaminating the potting medium later. Spray the solution and mix evenly, then it can be used for potting. You can also use antibacterial solution to soak the pot; specifically, after planting, repeatedly soak the pot with the solution 3-4 times, and each time soak until the water reaches the rim of the pot, then lift the pot out. Do not soak for a long time. After draining, place it in a cool, ventilated spot to recover. During the recovery period, do not water or mist. Depending on the weather and placement, it may not need watering for 7-10 days, and do not mist either. Potting medium that holds too much water and is soaked through should not be used; it needs to be air-dried until slightly moist before use. After potting, it is also not suitable to use the pot-soaking method for disinfection and water replenishment. Generally, for relatively moist potting material, do not water immediately after potting; just place it directly in a cool environment to recover, and within 7-10 days do not water or mist. Note that when potting, do not pack it too tightly; keep the potting soil uniform in coarseness and fine texture, with appropriate looseness and density, ensuring good soil air content and permeability.
Management after potting; orchids repotted during this period must be kept on the dry side, placed in a cool, ventilated environment to recover, and protected from rain and sun. In this season, many things in daily life will absorb moisture and mold, so orchid growers need not worry that the potting medium will lack water, dry out the pot, and damage the roots. Never let the potting soil hold too much water. Orchids have fleshy roots, and the roots themselves store a great deal of water. During this period in the central Yunnan region there is mostly rainy weather, so even if you do not water for 10 days to half a month, the orchids will not dry out the pot or damage the roots. After 10 days to half a month, you can replenish water as conditions allow; you can use a sprinkler to water until water overflows from the bottom of the pot. After that, management differs from spring and autumn. Never use heavy water for recovery after potting, and do not use heavy water in routine care. During this period, the priority is to let it dry out, and by all means avoid the potting soil staying wet for a long time.