How to grow orchids? Avoid these common mistakes

Understanding the growth habits of various orchids and achieving "know the orchid to grow the orchid" is the basic skill for growing orchids well. A small number of orchid growers, especially beginners, due to a lack of knowledge about the growth patterns and habits of orchids, have some unrealistic and unscientific practices in watering, fertilizing, planting, and using pesticides for orchid care, which affect the growth of orchids. The common main mistakes in failing to grow orchids well are roughly 5 types: 

1. Formulaic fixed watering method

    Water is the source of life for orchids, the foundation of growth. With proper water, flowers flourish; with wrong water, all is lost. Therefore, mastering the watering of orchids is the key to growing them well, and there is never a fixed "formula" for watering orchids. "There is only a unified principle of watering, never a unified method of watering." One must never adopt a rigid and unrealistic formulaic watering method. For example, some people say: "Water once every 3 days in spring, once every 7 days in winter." This is a watering method derived from other people's conditions and environment, and may not suit your own orchid growing. If you mechanically apply others' watering methods, it will only harm the growth of orchids.

    Watering orchids is complex in daily management. It must be based on factors such as season (water more in the hot and dry summer; water less or not at all during the plum rain season; water less in early spring when temperatures are low; water more in late spring when the climate is mild and it is the sprouting period; water more in the dry autumn). Weather (water more on sunny days, less on cloudy days, not much when rain is imminent, not at all on rainy (snowy) days). Light (water more in sunny, well-ventilated, drier locations; water less in locations with insufficient sunlight, poor ventilation, and higher humidity). Growing medium (water more with granular medium, less with orchid mud medium). Pots (water more with clay tile pots, less with ceramic pots and plastic pots). Orchid plants (water more for strong seedlings, less for diseased or weak plants, less or no water for orchids needing rescue; water more when there are many plants in the pot, less when few; water more during the growth period or bud pregnancy period, less during dormancy; water more during the sprouting period, less after sprouting; water more when flower buds appear, less during flowering, stop watering for several days after flowers fade, and water again after removing flowers and dormancy). Environment (the orchid growing environment includes region and location; where ventilation is good, air humidity is low, and transpiration is strong, water more; otherwise water less). Variety (different orchid varieties have somewhat different water requirements; for example, Cymbidium faberi and Cymbidium kanran are drought-tolerant and should be kept relatively drier, while Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium sinense are moisture-tolerant and should be kept relatively more moist). And other factors, comprehensively combined, to form your own flexible and scientific watering method.

    Predecessors summarized orchid watering: there is the "four add, five reduce, six avoid" watering method, which has good reference value and guiding significance for orchid lovers.

    "Four should add": add when the heat is too intense, add when the north wind is too strong, add when near many sunny spots, add when the pot is small and the orchids are thriving.

    "Five should reduce": reduce when the weather is frequently rainy, reduce when the pot medium is decomposing, reduce when near many shady spots, reduce when the pot is large and the orchids are small, reduce when the orchid heads are black and leaf tips appear.

    "Six should avoid": avoid on rainy days, avoid on cloudy days, avoid on snowy days, avoid when about to change the medium, avoid when about to apply tea seed cake or tobacco stems (that is, when about to apply pesticide), avoid when about to repot.

    In short, "planting orchids is easy, watering is hard." There is a folk saying: "To understand orchid growing takes a moment, to master watering takes three years," telling us that it cannot be mastered overnight. It takes a certain amount of time, exploring and comprehending through practice, and gradually accumulating experience, to achieve mastery and grasp the essentials of watering. The formulaic fixed watering method is inadvisable.

2. Indecisive medium selection, endless repotting.

    ① Indecisive medium selection. The growing medium is the foundation of orchid growth, and choosing a good medium is crucial for growing orchids well. According to the growth characteristics of orchids, a good medium should have conditions such as being loose and aerated, easy to drain, nutritionally complete, moderately acidic or alkaline, and clean and sterile. With the development of the orchid industry, there are more and more orchid growing media, including organic media such as humus soil, peat soil, pond mud, coconut husk, peanut shells, sawdust, tree bark, leaves, moss, etc. There are inorganic media such as phytolith, volcanic stone, pond, weathered stone, coarse river sand, brick particles, pumice, coal cinders, etc. There are also specially made granular media for orchids, such as, vermiculite, various nutrient soils, active soils, etc. You can freely choose. But there is no perfect medium in the world; each has its strengths and weaknesses. You only need to master its characteristics, carry out scientific blending, and achieve maximizing benefits while avoiding harm. Orchids have strong adaptability. As long as water and fertilizer management is proper, any type of medium can grow orchids well. Therefore, the medium you choose need not be the best, but the most suitable one -- suitable for your environment, orchids, methods, and personal habits. As long as in your cultivation practice you determine that a certain medium can adapt to your orchid growth, that is enough. Do not "change overnight upon hearing others' advice," repeatedly switching media. Excessive repotting and medium changing will affect the orchid's nutrient absorption and normal development. Each repotting and medium change requires re-establishing orchid mycorrhizae and adapting to a new environment; the orchid seedlings will be in a suppressed state for a period, stopping growth. Especially old seedlings and weak seedlings may very likely be tormented to death.

    ② Endless repotting. Repotting is an important measure in orchid care. Because during the cultivation of orchids, there will always be phenomena that hinder orchid growth, which must be solved by repotting and changing medium. Generally there are seven situations requiring repotting: First, after two or three years of potted orchid growing, because the nutrients in the medium have been exhausted and cannot meet the needs of continued seedling development, the seedlings appear thin and short; Second, after years of water leaching and sun exposure, orchid mud has changed in structure, the medium has become compacted, affecting air and water permeability; Third, too many seedlings have developed, with tangled roots, leaving no space for new seedlings and new roots to continue developing, also affecting the normal growth environment of old seedlings; Fourth, the medium has been infected by bacteria, fungi, or viruses, bringing a survival crisis to the orchid plants; Fifth, "repotting" for the coordination and uniformity of pots and medium. Sixth, repotting for more seedlings to divide and plant. Seventh, repotting for division and exchange or sale. But one must never casually repot frequently; repot when it should be done, and as much as possible do not repot when it should not be done.            

    At the same time, repotting cannot be done in a purely formulaic way; one must grasp the orchid's condition and carry out different repotting treatments for different orchid conditions. Repot with purpose and direction. For example: for diseased plants, the focus of "repotting" is sterilization and disinfection. Strictly prune, wash, disinfect, dry the roots of diseased plants, soak in root-promoting solution. Then dry the roots again, pot, and replace with fresh growing medium. Not a single step can be omitted. Although sterilization also kills the beneficial orchid mycorrhizae symbiotic with the orchid, leading to a temporary pause in growth, namely the negative impact of the acclimation period, exchanging sterilization and pest elimination for the orchid's life is completely worthwhile.

    For disease-free weak plants: the focus of repotting is to supplement nutrient supply, so there is no need to disinfect the substrate; only simple pruning, soaking in root-promoting growth hormone, and replacing with nutrient-rich medium for potting. Water with "root-setting water" after two days of acclimation. This achieves both supplementing fertilizer efficacy and reducing damage to beneficial symbiotic bacteria, shortening the acclimation period.

    For disease-free strong plants. The focus of repotting is to solve the problem of a small pot needing expansion, so there is also no need for overly meticulous work; simply rinse, prune, divide, and replace part of the substrate for potting. However, for some that have been diseased or have mostly damaged roots, it is still necessary to soak in medicinal solution for a period, but before soaking in medicine there is no need to rinse with clean water, because orchid roots rinsed with clean water will rapidly expand in a short time, hindering the absorption and efficacy of the medicine. If rinsed with clean water, they need to be dried before soaking in medicinal solution.

    Repotting also has its timing. Grasping the appropriate timing for repotting and planting orchids is an important part of growing orchids well. In the orchid classic "Linghai Lan Yan," the "six taboos" of orchid planting are mentioned: "Do not plant in severe heat, do not plant in severe cold, do not plant under scorching sun, do not plant weak shoots, do not plant when orchid buds are opening, do not plant in excessive rain (shoots: orchid plants)." Division and planting should avoid these. This clearly tells us that under these six conditions, orchids should not be planted and should be avoided. It also says: "The division and potting of orchids is like people living separately; if too crowded and not divided, roots wither; if not yet crowded and frequently divided, leaves weaken. With proper growing, generally common varieties are divided once every three years, and precious varieties once every five years, which is most appropriate (common varieties: ordinary orchids; precious varieties: high-grade orchids). Divide Cymbidium goeringii after the spring equinox; divide autumn orchids after Minor Cold. At this time old leaves have fully faded and new buds are about to grow, with not one failure in a hundred." This clearly points out the appropriate timing for planting orchids. The predecessors' summary has important guiding significance for the division and planting of orchids. Generally, the traditional repotting season should be at the spring equinox or autumn equinox; in the north it should be after the spring equinox or before the autumn equinox. Due to regional climate differences, we can also follow temperature: generally, a low temperature above 10°C and a high temperature below 30°C is the suitable temperature range for normal repotting. Accordingly, the time for orchid repotting is generally most suitable in spring and autumn, when orchid plants are in the mature stage and the damage rate can be reduced to a minimum. In the first half of the year, it is best from the spring equinox to Grain Rain, when the flowering period has ended, leaf buds have not yet sprouted, and they are not easily damaged by freezing, so repotting can be done at the right time. In the second half of the year, it is best from the autumn equinox to Frost's Descent, when orchids will enter dormancy; repotting at this time will less affect orchid growth, and after winter rest and nutrient accumulation, they will bloom and sprout well in spring. Mastering the timing of orchid division and propagation is also an important part of caring for orchids well.

    Therefore, repotting is simple, but its operation has complexity and scientific aspects. Good repotting can promote active vegetative growth, improve the disease resistance, rejuvenation, and sprouting rate of orchid plants, and bring vigorous vitality to orchids. Improper repotting can also bring potential crises to orchids. Especially for some diseased and weak seedlings, it will accelerate their death. For this reason, repotting is not only an important part of orchid care, but also a skill that every orchid grower must experience and master. If you do not follow its habits and requirements and operate arbitrarily, you will not repot well and the orchids will instead suffer disaster. Therefore, one should work hard on repotting and planting, adopt the guiding ideology of "seven parts planting, three parts management," and not blindly repot at will.

3. Unrealistic random fertilizing.

    Fertilizing orchids cannot be done on a whim, fertilizing whenever you feel like it, applying whatever fertilizer you want, and not mixing according to proportions. This kind of unrealistic random fertilizing can only harm orchid growth. Fertilizing must be scientific, practical, and considered comprehensively according to season, temperature, seedling condition, orchid species, medium, growth stage, etc. Do not fertilize randomly, and do not use a single fertilizer. Achieve accurate and targeted fertilizing, supplementing whatever fertilizer is lacking and fertilizing at the right time, and correctly prepare according to the specified ratio of water and fertilizer. At the same time, adhere to the principle of frequent application of dilute fertilizer, do not apply concentrated fertilizer, and avoid fertilizer damage. Unrealistic random fertilizing has the following manifestations:

    ① Using one fertilizer all the way through. Orchids need fertilizer in many aspects, requiring both 9 macroelement fertilizers (carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur) and 7 microelement fertilizers (iron, manganese, copper, zinc, molybdenum, boron, chlorine). If one fertilizer is used all the way through, it will not only fail to meet the fertilizer needs of orchids, but also cause nutrient imbalance, affecting orchid growth. Especially nitrogen fertilizer: excessive application, when exceeding the amount, will make the medium solution concentration too high, thus forming salt damage and affecting normal orchid growth. If a plant lacks a certain element, it will have a certain impact on the growth and flowering of orchids, showing certain "symptoms." For example, boron deficiency will affect the flowering and flower quality of orchids; iron deficiency will show symptoms of insufficient green on the veins of tillering seedlings. ……….

    ② Random fertilizing regardless of season and climate. Fertilizing must first consider season: apply more during spring and autumn when sprouting and flowering, and apply less or not at all in winter and summer when orchids are dormant. Second, consider climate: do not apply on rainy days (fertilizer is washed away by rain, greatly reducing and lowering fertilizer efficacy). Do not apply in high-temperature and low-temperature weather (orchids are dormant, fertilizing harms roots). If you violate the natural laws of plant growth by fertilizing randomly regardless of season and climate, the result can only be counterproductive and harmful to orchid growth.

    ③ Random fertilizing regardless of seedling condition. Based on the growth patterns and habits of orchids, orchid-growing predecessors summarized the principles: "Adapt measures to the orchid, determine fertilizer by seedling, prefer dilute over concentrated, apply thinly at the right time." That is to say, for orchid fertilizing: First, it cannot be excessive; apply dilute fertilizer frequently. Second, fertilize differently according to the fertilizer needs of different orchid varieties. Generally speaking, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium sinense, and Cymbidium ensifolium need more fertilizer than Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium tortisepalum, and Cymbidium kanran: taller plants need more fertilizer than shorter plants; granular media need more fertilizer than humus media. Plain-color orchids need less fertilizer than other orchids; precious varieties should be given dilute fertilizer; variegated-leaf varieties should be given less nitrogen and magnesium fertilizer. Third, determine fertilizer by seedling: strong seedlings can be fertilized more; newly planted orchid plants, old and weak orchid plants, and diseased orchid plants should not be given root-irrigation fertilizer; appropriately spray some foliar fertilizer to maintain growth needs. Third, consider growth stage: during the vegetative growth stage of orchids, mainly apply nitrogen fertilizer, with potassium fertilizer added to ensure robust plant growth; during the bud pregnancy period, that is, the reproductive stage of orchids, supplement phosphorus fertilizer. This helps orchids bloom well. When orchids enter dormancy, apply less or no fertilizer.

④ Applying concentrated fertilizer arbitrarily. Fertilizing should be correctly prepared according to the specified ratio of water and fertilizer, and at the same time adhere to the principle of frequent application of dilute fertilizer, not applying concentrated fertilizer, to avoid fertilizer damage.

Because orchid roots have good absorption capacity, applying concentrated fertilizer can easily dehydrate the roots, and the symbiotic bacteria in the roots are also easily killed by concentrated fertilizer. Therefore, fertilizing must follow the principle of "frequent application of dilute fertilizer."

From predecessors' experience, scientific fertilizing should adhere to the principle of "four more, four less, five not": Four more are: apply more when flowers show yellowing and thinness, apply more before sprouting, apply more during bud pregnancy, apply more after flowering; Four less are: apply less when vigorous, apply less when sprouting, apply less during dormancy, apply less during the rainy season; Five not are: do not apply when leggy, do not apply when newly planted, do not apply to diseased plants, do not apply in severe heat, do not apply in severe cold. Also adjust the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium applied according to orchid growth characteristics. Generally, when small seedlings first grow, nitrogen fertilizer should be dominant; when entering the flowering period, the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be increased. Before orchid plants enter dormancy, the nutrient supply should choose high-phosphorus fertilizer; stop fertilizing temporarily after dividing pots, and this should be followed.

  4. Ignoring the "individuality" management of orchids.

The growth of various orchids all has "common" management requirements such as shading, ventilation, moisture retention, looseness, aeration, and fertilizer retention. But because various orchids have certain differences in growth environment, their growth habits also have certain "individuality" differences. For example, Cymbidium goeringii is moisture-tolerant, summer orchids are sun-tolerant, autumn orchids are fertilizer-tolerant, Cymbidium kanran is drought-tolerant, Cymbidium sinense prefers shade, etc. Therefore, regarding orchid habits, one cannot generalize and treat them all the same. While following "common" care and management, it is also necessary to take into account the "individuality" of various orchids in management. Establish the concept of "know the orchid to grow the orchid." Strive to plant and manage according to the growth patterns and habits of various orchids. Only then can various orchids be scientifically cultivated and managed well. How to recognize the different habits ("individuality") of orchids?

① Orchids differ in cold tolerance: because various orchids have certain differences in living environment, they also differ to a certain degree in cold tolerance. For example, Cymbidium faberi and Cymbidium goeringii, especially Cymbidium faberi, are more cold-tolerant than other orchids, while Cymbidium sinense and Cymbidium ensifolium are less cold-tolerant than other orchids; Cymbidium tortisepalum, Cymbidium goeringii var. longibracteatum, and Cymbidium kanran are between Cymbidium faberi/goeringii and Cymbidium sinense/ensifolium in cold tolerance. Differences in cold tolerance provide a scientific basis for arranging the order of moving orchids in and out of the house for winter warmth management and for the placement positions of various orchids in the greenhouse. Orchids with low cold tolerance enter the room first and leave later; orchids with high cold tolerance enter later and leave first, overcoming the drawbacks of moving them in too early or too late and ensuring orchids are not damaged by freezing. At the same time, the placement positions of various orchids also differ. Drought-tolerant, sun-loving Cymbidium faberi should be placed on the upper layer near the window in a sunny spot; shade-loving, moisture-tolerant Cymbidium sinense and Cymbidium kanran should be placed on the lower layer toward the inside in diffuse light, which helps orchids overwinter safely.

② Orchids differ in light requirements: among orchids, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, and Cymbidium goeringii prefer sunlight more, while Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium kanran, Cymbidium tortisepalum, variegated-leaf orchids, and dwarf orchids prefer shade more. This difference provides a scientific basis for different shading requirements for orchids. In care, adapt to their light requirements differently so that orchids grow better.

③ Orchids differ in humidity requirements: Cymbidium faberi and Cymbidium kanran have strong, long, and well-developed root systems and relatively strong drought tolerance; in general, keep them slightly dry. Cymbidium sinense and Cymbidium goeringii var. longibracteatum require relatively moist conditions.

④ Orchids differ in fertilizer requirements: Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium kanran, and Cymbidium tortisepalum require more fertilizer than other orchids, because these orchids have small pseudobulbs, store little nutrients, but have many leaves and many flowers and consume much fertilizer; nutrient supply is inevitably insufficient, requiring timely absorption and supplementation by roots and leaves, and thick roots and long leaves especially need phosphorus and potassium supplementation. Cymbidium ensifolium has thick, strong, and vigorous roots, and obvious round large pseudobulbs that can store more water and nutrients. The leaves and pseudobulbs of Cymbidium sinense both contain large amounts of phosphorus, and its old roots also have a very strong ability to absorb phosphorus, so Cymbidium sinense needs less phosphorus. However, Cymbidium sinense has thick plants and broad leaves and has greater demand for nitrogen and potassium.

⑤ Orchids differ in medium requirements: Cymbidium faberi roots are especially thick and strong. To ensure root aeration, ventilation, and healthy growth, the medium must be loose, and granules should be coarse rather than fine. Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium tortisepalum are the opposite, requiring fine rather than coarse. Referring to the soil quality of their native habitats, choose a soft, humus-rich medium. Regardless of the medium, some mountain soil (humus soil) should be mixed in; Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium tortisepalum grown this way have the best growth.

⑥ Orchids differ in deep versus shallow planting requirements: Cymbidium faberi has strong roots and lush leaves and high foot sheaths, so it is suitable for deep planting. Cymbidium tortisepalum and Cymbidium kanran should be planted shallowly. Cymbidium tortisepalum and Cymbidium kanran have many long roots and especially like air; there is a saying, "If you want orchids to grow well, they should fall over in the wind." Shallow planting facilitates aeration. In general planting, the pseudobulb can be exposed 1/3 to 3/2 above the soil surface; for Cymbidium tortisepalum and Cymbidium kanran, it is suitable to expose 3/4 above the soil surface. Cymbidium faberi pseudobulbs can be buried in the medium.

⑦ Orchids differ in requiring vernalization and avoiding excessive warmth: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, and Cymbidium goeringii var. longibracteatum, having long adapted to the cold winter climate, need a low-temperature "vernalization stage" during flower bud development before they can bloom normally. In southern places such as Fujian and Guangdong, because winter temperatures are high and there is no low-temperature period for vernalization of Cymbidium faberi and Cymbidium goeringii, the flowering rate is low, and the flowers produced are of poor quality. This proves the importance of the vernalization period for flowering. Cymbidium kanran, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, etc. do not need a vernalization period.

⑧ Orchids differ in clumping habit: for most orchid species, this habit is not important, but a few orchids have an obligatory clumping habit, such as Cymbidium faberi and Cymbidium tortisepalum. Because their pseudobulbs are small and leaves long, if separated and planted singly, they lose the conditions for mutual support and their resistance is weakened. Single-plant propagation, even if it barely survives, becomes smaller and smaller the more it is grown, and it is difficult to bloom in a short time, with the result that the loss outweighs the gain.

    According to the different individualities of orchids, cultivating orchids cannot be uniform; management should treat them differently and vary with the plant. On the premise of following the "common" cultivation of orchids, it is also necessary to take into account the "individuality" of various orchids and carry out differentiated scientific cultivation and management, so as to cultivate orchids well.

  5. Non-targeted random use of chemicals.

    In orchid disease prevention and pest control work, one must overcome using chemicals randomly without diagnosis or with inaccurate diagnosis, such as applying this chemical today, that chemical tomorrow, and the day after hearing others say another chemical is good, switching to yet another. As for the drug properties and efficacy, and whether the orchid disease improves after application, one leaves it to chance, with a kind of blindness. This not only fails to kill bacteria, but also causes chemical damage due to random application. When choosing a certain pesticide, one must clearly understand the mechanism of action and target of control of that pesticide. Regarding the mechanism of action of fungicides, one must clearly understand whether the chemical mainly has a preventive effect, therapeutic effect, or eradicative effect on pathogens, and also understand whether the chemical has systemic action or contact action, etc. All these should be understood in order to apply chemicals in a targeted way. For example, for bacterial diseases of orchids, streptomycin, cyanomycin, chloramphenicol, etc. should be selected. If a fungicide for controlling fungi is used instead, the effect is generally very poor or ineffective; and for diseases also caused by fungi, chemicals such as thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, and mancozeb should be selected; if a chemical for treating bacteria is used instead, it is likewise of little efficacy. Therefore, only targeted application can improve control effects. At the same time, it is best to apply before or in the early stage of disease onset, that is, give priority to prevention. Once the disease is fully developed, it is too late. Application should be continuous; for diseases apply at least 3 times in a row (once every 7-10 days), and for pests apply at least 2 times in a row. This can achieve twice the result with half the effort. This is the basic requirement for chemical application in preventing and controlling orchid diseases.

    At the same time, one cannot use a single chemical, that is, always use one kind of fungicide. This will cause pathogens to develop resistance and reduce efficacy. Therefore, it is better to rotate several fungicides for spraying.

    In short, management must never be divorced from reality, following personal whims and violating the growth patterns of orchids: watering today, fertilizing tomorrow, repotting and changing soil the day after, constantly fiddling, leaving orchids no peace. This kind of impatience, wishing to "pull up seedlings to help them grow," is extremely harmful to orchid growth, and the result is counterproductive, leading to the dismay of "first year looking at flowers, second year looking at leaves, third year looking at soil." Only by earnestly learning and mastering some orchid-growing knowledge, exploring, discussing, verifying, comprehending, and summarizing through orchid-growing practice, and humbly consulting experienced orchid friends, constantly improving one's cultivation techniques, establishing the scientific concept of "know the orchid to grow the orchid," and carrying out orderly care and management according to orchid growth habits, can orchids be grown well and strong, with more seedlings and more flowers, and the fragrance intoxicating the heart.