Orchid old pseudobulb sprouting methods, mastering these few points is enough

Basically, this method can be used for any old pseudobulbs that have no leaves or only 1-2 leaves with all others leafless:

Take the orchid plant out, remove the withered sheath leaves, wash clean, then twist the connected pseudobulbs so that the connection point is half-broken but not completely separated, do not twist the pseudobulbs still attached to leaves, so that when the leaf-bearing pseudobulbs sprout they have sufficient oxygen supply, in principle keep plump roots, remove rotten roots and hollow roots, then use a fungicide disinfectant such as Tobucin, according to the ratio on the instructions soak the pseudobulbs for 2-3 minutes, soaking time must not be long, replant the roots into the pot according to normal orchid planting methods, fill traditional potting medium to about 1 cm below the old pseudobulbs. Then use a breathable potting medium such as Zhijinshi or Kuangjishi to cover to about 0.5 cm above the old pseudobulbs, choose a growth hormone such as Cugen Sheng and water it according to the ratio on the instructions, Lanjun Wang needs sunlight cooperation to achieve a certain effect, usual management is the same as other orchids, no special conditions needed, the key lies in the usual moisture retention of the orchid pot, water with a growth hormone such as Cugen Sheng once every 10 days, alternating growth hormones gives better results. After a period of care, basically all old pseudobulbs can grow complete new shoots, and no repotting is needed, just manage like other orchids, apply thin fertilizer frequently, in principle choose your own homemade organic fertilizer, if the original old pseudobulbs are robust they may even bloom again the following year.

Leafless pseudobulbs, regardless of whether they have roots or not, as long as the pseudobulbs are plump and free of disease or injury, can successfully sprout. Method:

Remove dead leaves and diseased or rotten roots from the old pseudobulbs, wash clean, half-separate the pseudobulbs (it is best not to plant individually, new shoots sprouted from a single one are not easy to grow into plants and are difficult to care for), use a fungicide disinfectant such as Tobucin, soak the old pseudobulbs for 2-3 minutes according to the instructions ratio, air dry for 2-3 days so that the wounds from the twisting process heal, then replant into the pot according to normal orchid planting methods, the potting medium below the pseudobulbs generally uses the medium from the original planting method, the purpose is to ensure that the old pseudobulbs still have root nutrient supply and absorption, so that after successful sprouting there is sufficient oxygen supply for the new shoots, promoting the new shoots to quickly grow roots, place some moisture-retaining material around the sprout points of the old pseudobulbs, such as green moss, snake wood shavings and the like, for the old pseudobulbs and above still use breathable potting medium such as Zhijinshi or Kuangjitu to cover to about 0.5 cm above the old pseudobulbs, choose potting medium the size of rice grains, settling water and usual care are the same as the above method.

For unexplained orchid dieback caused by management negligence or climatic reasons, this method can be used:

This dieback phenomenon has multiple factors: such as potting medium too acidic, too alkaline, too rich, excessive nitrogen fertilizer, insufficient disinfection of the orchid pot, this kind of dieback generally occurs after May, especially during the moldy rainy season, once discovered immediately take out the pot and separate from other orchid pots, rinse the potted orchid clean, remove withered and rotten leaves and withered and rotten roots, plump roots must be well protected, be careful when cleaning the old pseudobulbs at this time, generally at this time the dieback pseudobulbs may have dormant sprouts that have not yet emerged, these sprouts actually existed since early spring. Because the orchid pot disease caused dieback the root system is not good, without sufficient nutrient supply, unable to sprout, as long as they are not damaged, these sprout points under suitable conditions can still grow naturally, at this time the pseudobulbs cannot use the half-separation method to let the original pseudobulbs concentrate nutrients for rooting and sprouting, cut off about one third of the orchid leaves, for dehydrated plants cut off two thirds, after tidying up, use a fungicide such as Tobucin or Carbendazim to soak and disinfect for 2-3 minutes then pot, choose breathable potting medium such as rice-grain-sized Zhijinshi, Kuangjishi, place some moisture-retaining material such as sphagnum moss, snake wood shavings around rootless, leafless pseudobulbs, the purpose is to retain moisture and nutrients, the potting medium should cover the pseudobulbs 0.5-1 cm, then use 800 times Cugen Sheng or 6000 times Xishuo to water as settling water, once every 10 days, usually pay attention to moisture retention and there is still a possibility of sprouting new shoots, at this time the new shoots are relatively weak, usual care should pay attention to disease prevention, in principle apply a fungicide such as Tobucin once a month. Choose a breathable tall pot for planting, plant at 3/2 of the pot, to facilitate moisture retention during high temperatures.

Precautions

In principle, the sprouting of old pseudobulbs should be carried out after the orchids finish blooming each year in combination with repotting, at this time the sprouts from the pseudobulbs are thick and strong, and the climate is also suitable for new shoot growth, off-season sprouting is not advocated, although it can be done in all four seasons, it is unfavorable for new orchid seedling growth, of course orchid growers with greenhouses can do it all year round.

Sun-drying or turning to dry the old pseudobulbs, although it is also a quick way, but after successful sprouting the new shoots grow thin and weak. As the new shoots grow, the old pseudobulbs generally die soon after, the new shoots have poor self-supply capacity, the root system is not yet complete, and coupled with rising temperatures, care is extremely difficult, even if care succeeds, it is very difficult to have new sprouts the following year. The reason I propose that old pseudobulbs must not be sun-dried or exposed to the sun is that after sun-drying and turning to dry, the old pseudobulbs are severely dehydrated, although it stimulates the sprout points, after successful sprouting there are not enough nutrients to supply the new seedlings, causing the wet nurse to be cut off ** and the infant to die, therefore my old pseudobulbs are absolutely never sun-dried or turned to dry for several hours, of course when spring is warm and flowers bloom, when the temperature is 10-15°C, timely turning to dry is somewhat beneficial for the healing of old pseudobulb wounds.

Light control, when the daytime temperature is below 20°C let them get sun, below 30°C provide shade, above 30°C absolutely do not let direct sunlight hit them, choose the shadiest, coolest place, as long as there is light it is fine.

The method I have in mind also requires patience, as short as 50 days, as long as several months, depending on the temperature, the length of sprouting, if sprouting of old pseudobulbs is carried out in November, generally it will not sprout until April or May of the following year, absolutely do not be impatient, growing orchids requires a calm mind, when your mindset is good, the orchids are good too, fine flowers and ordinary flowers are all orchids

Old pseudobulbs with only 1-2 leaves can use this method. Take the orchid plant out, remove the withered sheath leaves, wash clean, then twist the connected pseudobulbs so that the connection point is half-broken but not completely separated, do not twist the pseudobulbs still attached to leaves, so that when the leaf-bearing pseudobulbs sprout they have sufficient oxygen supply, in principle keep plump roots, remove rotten roots and hollow roots, then use a fungicide disinfectant such as Tobucin, according to the ratio on the instructions soak the pseudobulbs for 2-3 minutes, soaking time must not be long, then replant the roots into the pot according to normal orchid planting methods, fill traditional potting medium to about 1 cm below the old pseudobulbs. Then use a breathable potting medium such as Zhijinshi or Kuangjishi to cover to about 0.5 cm above the old pseudobulbs, then choose a growth hormone such as Cugen Sheng and water it according to the ratio on the instructions, Lanjun Wang needs sunlight cooperation to achieve a certain effect. Usual management is the same as other orchids, no special conditions needed, the key lies in the usual moisture retention of the orchid pot, water with a growth hormone such as Cugen Sheng once every 10 days, alternating growth hormones gives better results. After a period of care, basically all old pseudobulbs can grow complete new shoots. Also no repotting is needed, just manage like other orchids, apply thin fertilizer frequently, if the original old pseudobulbs are robust they may even bloom again the following year.

Starting from May, as temperatures gradually rise. The pseudobulbs of Cymbidium goeringii begin to sprout and grow. Sometimes, due to various reasons, some pseudobulbs sprout very few, or even no shoots at all, for superior varieties, we all hope they multiply quickly and produce good results, in this case, the sprouting method can be used, the specific method is as follows:

1. Prepare the sprouting solution: take coconut milk (unripe is better) or yeast fermentation liquid or banana flesh juice, add water and stir, after slight clarification take the liquid, put into a dropper for later use.

2. Expose the Cymbidium goeringii pseudobulbs in the pot, try not to affect the roots, so as not to cause growth impact, then use the dropper to drip the sprouting solution onto the pseudobulbs, not too much at a time, repeat several times.

Why can the above sprouting solutions stimulate new shoots to sprout faster? Because the above substances all contain a certain amount of cytokinin, which can promote meristem tissue cells to accelerate division speed, and also has a certain effect on old pseudobulbs sprouting new shoots. It is just that the methods used differ slightly.

For old pseudobulbs we generally only need their new shoots, especially mutated new varieties, old pseudobulbs sometimes bring surprises, because their mutation probability is relatively high, when sprouting cut roots and leaves leaving only the pseudobulb, then use a syringe to inject the sprouting solution at a shallow level into the old pseudobulb, without damaging the sprout eyes, finally soak in the sprouting solution.

If you have collected some "dragon roots" on the mountain, and you want to cultivate them to grow into plants, you can also use the sprouting method, the specific method is, take some fertile humus, spread it on a sandy substrate, place the "dragon roots" on the humus, cover with moss or thick dead leaves (oak leaves), sprinkle water to keep moist. After a few days, part the upper layer and spray with the sprouting solution then restore as before, you can also spray directly, but must spray once more with clean water, as long as it is moist, the "dragon roots" can grow rapidly within it, and sprout and emerge from the soil, cut off the "dragon roots" in time, and you can continue cultivating, very suitable for propagating superior varieties.

To grow orchids, first the orchid seedling root system must be in good condition, when it is growing full of vitality, does it have good nutrient absorption capacity. If the root system is very weak, and you blindly water and fertilize, it instead adds frost to snow, possibly causing a vicious cycle, leading to orchid death. The ancients said "to grow orchids first grow roots" is the absolute truth!

1. Weak seedlings should be grown plainly. You can use the revival soil from repotting for cultivation, because the fertilizer elements in this soil are relatively mild, and it contains orchid fungi, so it is very suitable for small, weak orchid seedlings. No fertilizer.

2. If weak, diseased seedlings have few roots, no disease, they can be planted as companions with healthy growing ordinary flowers. Orchids like groups and dislike isolation, so weak orchids can borrow the physiological vitality of healthy orchids, supply orchid fungi, repair the root system, and thereby recover vigor. A small amount of foliar fertilizer can be applied.

3. Moisture should be drier than normal orchids, the potting material should have strong drainage. The ancients had the saying "dry pot grows roots".

4. Light should be on the shady side, especially dry-pot shady growing, balancing yin and yang. Orchids grow at night, carry out photosynthesis during the day, to supply cell division and proliferation at night. Shady growing can reduce transpiration, to reduce the burden on the root system, and promote rooting and healing of damaged roots.

5. Do well in ventilation. Weak clear wind is more suitable, if weak, diseased small seedlings are placed under relatively large convection wind, it can cause orchid seedlings to dry up, or die.