How to grow orchid leaves so they stay green and glossy
By Xu Yao. It is said that flowers are enjoyed for a few days, but leaves for years. The glossy, clean and intact orchid leaf is not only a standard for measuring the health of an orchid, but also a test of the grower's cultivation skill. Many orchid growers produce plants that look healthy and sprout normally, yet the leaves are rough, dull and lifeless, sometimes marked by water stains, chemical stains...
Author: Xu Yao
It is said that flowers are enjoyed for a few days, but leaves for years. The glossy, clean and intact orchid leaf is not only a standard for measuring the health of an orchid, but also a test of the grower's cultivation skill. Many orchid growers produce plants that look healthy and sprout normally, yet the leaves are rough, dull and lifeless, sometimes heavily fouled by water stains, chemical stains, dust and so on. Even a highly prized named variety like this can hardly be considered elegant! It loses the orchid's character and its quality is very low! At the request of fellow orchid growers, the author offers a few small tips on this issue for reference. Corrections are welcome where I have been remiss!
A few brief points of explanation:
1. The water sprayed on the leaves should be clean, containing little or no impurities (in the author's experience, using tap water to spray leaves over a long period produces scale; the solution is to add a suitable amount of edible white vinegar to the tap water, let it stand for more than two days, and gently take the clear liquid from the top). A TDS meter can also be used to test water quality (the conductivity value of dissolved solids in the water); the lower the value, the purer the water! Raw tap water values range between 50 and 300.
2. Do not apply too much leaf fungicide; residues of most products last more than 15 to 20 days, and pesticides should not be reapplied within that interval. If an orchid has already been infected by pathogens, it must be managed in isolation, and only after the orchid has recovered should it return to the orchid house for normal management. It is recommended to use liquid-form fungicides as far as possible.
3. Increase the relative air humidity in the orchid room to prevent dry wind, hot wind or strong wind from blowing on and damaging the orchid leaves. If orchids are grown on a rooftop or balcony, corresponding humidifying equipment should be added to intervene in the microclimate, keeping air humidity at around 70% to 80%.
4. Seal the orchid room to reduce dust entering and fouling the leaves. If conditions permit, a wet curtain can be used to filter the dirty air coming in from outside, keeping the air in the orchid room moist and fresh! This is beneficial for gas exchange and orchid growth!
5. It is recommended to apply a dedicated foliar fertilizer for foliage plants that contains a full range of trace elements; it dissolves quickly, is well absorbed, leaves no residue, and will not foul the leaf surface. Macroelements such as urea and monopotassium phosphate are best used for pot application; if a foliar top-dressing is needed, it must not be excessive or too frequent. Foliar application of macroelements should not exceed twelve times a year, that is, at most once a month, and this includes both the growing season and the dormant season!
6. Regularly flush the orchids with plenty of water to wash the leaves and prevent the buildup of harmful substances and impurities such as chemical stains and inorganic salt deposits! After each flushing, ventilate promptly to blow dry the water in the leaf sheaths and prevent rot at the core; take even greater care during the budding stage!